Disconnect rear frame to change brake lines? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 7 Old Sep 11th, 2008, 10:48 pm Thread Starter
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Disconnect rear frame to change brake lines?

Is this necessary to remove the rear brake lines, disconnecting the rear frame?

"Secure rear frame to Assembly Crane"
"Remove fasteners securing rear frame to main frame"
"Slightly raise rear frame and pull towards the rear".

Will it be possible to push the gas tank out of the way to get at the front brake lines?

If I was plannin ahead better, I wuda ordered a new air filter and fuel filter if I have to yank the tank. Otherwise, I guess I'm getting good practice for yanking the tank to change the fuel filter.

Bob

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post #2 of 7 Old Sep 12th, 2008, 9:46 am
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Re: Disconnect rear frame to change brake lines?

Since you are olny changing the "flexible" lines, none of that has to come off. It does make it easier on the front to have all the tupperware and tank off but not absolutely necessary. And certainly no rear frame removal is required.
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John
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post #3 of 7 Old Sep 12th, 2008, 10:07 am
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Re: Disconnect rear frame to change brake lines?

The only thing I removed besides tupperware was the Lower Shock bolt on the REAR shock so I could get a wrench on the Junction block that the flex line goes to. That way you don't twist and damage the hard line that also goes the that block. You need to raise the rear of the shock to get a wrench in there
Heres a tread that will help out

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthre...light=spiegler

Stevie Shreeve
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post #4 of 7 Old Sep 12th, 2008, 10:30 am
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Re: Disconnect rear frame to change brake lines?

Quote:
Originally Posted by katnapinn
The only thing I removed besides tupperware was the Lower Shock bolt on the REAR shock so I could get a wrench on the Junction block that the flex line goes to. That way you don't twist and damage the hard line that also goes the that block. You need to raise the rear of the shock to get a wrench in there
Heres a tread that will help out

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthre...light=spiegler
+1. At a tech session, we had to remove the rear shock bolt on an '02, but didn't have to on an '01. They're essentially the same bikes as far as shock mount, but the wrench barely fit into place on the '01 for some reason.

Sidebar: Just remember to pay close attention to the way your lines are routed behind the right footpeg plate, or you'll never get it back on.

Check this thread , and you'll see what I mean.

Brian
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'13 K1600 GTL-P - "Eva"
Sold but "beloved" ride: K12 LT - "Pepe"
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post #5 of 7 Old Sep 12th, 2008, 10:50 am
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Re: Disconnect rear frame to change brake lines?

On my '00 I only had to remove covers to replace both front and rear to Spiegler braded lines. I was able to get at everything necessary to do the job easily.

< - - - Norm Ruest - - - >

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ďIts unexplained, because they havenít explained it. Maybe they could explain it, but they've tried and they can't, because it's unexplainable.Ē - Ruest
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post #6 of 7 Old Sep 12th, 2008, 4:34 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Disconnect rear frame to change brake lines?

Well of course!
I'm reading the section on replacing the brake lines, but my task is only to replace the rubber lengths of the brake lines!

I've decide to use 21 technology during the tear apart, take pixs with my digital camera of where the brake lines run.

Many tks for the help.

bob

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post #7 of 7 Old Sep 13th, 2008, 1:59 am
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Re: Disconnect rear frame to change brake lines?

Bob,
I just finished the replacement on the rear hose this afternoon. I did not have to remove the shock lower bolt. I was able to work an open end wrench onto the fitting on the steel line. to remove the bolt on the banjo fitting. I was able to remove the right rear foot peg and the tupperware above it without removing the upper larger piece of tupperware. Just remove the screw and the two by the oddments box after you remove the decoration piece just infront of the seat. I used a large screw driver handle to hold the tupperware out away from the frame to get to the hidden screw underneath, use the right angle tool that comes in the tool kit. I removed the line at the caliper first and let any fluid drain into a pan. Then while it was draining I connected the new hose at the caliper. I removed the upper connection next and quickly installed the new hose to reduce the amount of fluid leaking out of the steel line. Make sure that the upper connection is turned the right direction. It should be pointing toward the rear tire not across the bike to the other side. Don't ask how I know. I had the rear tire removed because I had a new tire put on the rim. It made it easier to do all of the work. I also drained the rear drive fluid. The gear oil was very very clean and only a small small amount of filings on the magnet. In reinstalling the zip ties, I used the Black 4 inch and placed them in just a little different spots than the last time and I did not pull them extremely tight. Just tight. I also changed the motor oil as well. I purchased a Mity Vac a few weeks ago at my local NAPA dealer and used that first to pull fluid faster to the rear. then I just bled the break system the old way. Several pumps on the pedal with my foot while lying on my side then cracking open the valve quickly an shutting it during the flow. All of the fluid now is clean fluid. If I had not changed the rear gear oil and the engine oil it is about a 2-3 hr job start to finish if you have never done it before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BecketMa
Well of course!
I'm reading the section on replacing the brake lines, but my task is only to replace the rubber lengths of the brake lines!

I've decide to use 21 technology during the tear apart, take pixs with my digital camera of where the brake lines run.

Many tks for the help.

bob

Rob Asay
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