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post #1 of 13 Old Sep 11th, 2008, 7:06 am Thread Starter
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Throttle Body Sync

Getting prepared for a tune up and I thought I would check the throttle body sync. I have a set of carb stix, but I wanted to know what other tools are needed to do the job. Do I need a special screw driver, and what size wrench is needed for the lock nuts. The special tool that I have for my old Kawasaki will not work in this application. Thanks for any input or suggestions from others that have performed this task.

Thanks Rick
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post #2 of 13 Old Sep 11th, 2008, 12:03 pm
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

Why? There shouldn't under normal circumstances be any reason for check-up of synch. This isn't a "R-engine" with separate throttle bodies.

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post #3 of 13 Old Sep 11th, 2008, 12:28 pm
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

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Originally Posted by C-A-D
Why? There shouldn't under normal circumstances be any reason for check-up of synch. This isn't a "R-engine" with separate throttle bodies.
No, it's a K engine with separate throttle bodies. There are a few of us that have checked the TBS on the brick and found them to be quite off. The throttle body assembly is built and tested and aligned off the engine, and is mated with an engine during assembly. BMW assumes that if everything is assembled correctly, nothing should change.

There is no big improvement from syncing the throttle bodies, but in many cases it has removed some vibration, smoothed out the idle and improved throttle response. I see no reason not to do it if you have the tools. Be sure to check the valves first. Adjusting TBS to compensate for incorrectly set valves is a bad thing.

You will need a small screw driver, medium length and an 8MM wrench for the lock nuts. A 90 degree wrench might be better, I'm going to get one for the next time, it really needs a custom wrench or a crows foot if they make them that small. The adjusters on #2 and #3 are rather difficult to get to. Cylinder 4 is the reference and is not adjustable. You will need some locktite paint to lock the nuts when you finish.

-Scott

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post #4 of 13 Old Sep 11th, 2008, 1:53 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

Thanks Scott,
I am going to check the valves first, new air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs. I was also going to get some rubber caps too since I removed the canister some time ago and I can remove all the associated hose.

Thanks Rick
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post #5 of 13 Old Sep 11th, 2008, 7:16 pm
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

Quote:
Originally Posted by K12Rick
Thanks Scott,
I am going to check the valves first, new air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs. I was also going to get some rubber caps too since I removed the canister some time ago and I can remove all the associated hose.

Thanks Rick
Just remember to check those caps when you do a service. The rubber gets hard and brittle.

Just an info tidbit: #4 cylinder is used as the reference as it can't be adjusted.

You spoke of special screwdrivers, I bought one out of England and can't find the link, nor does it have any markings on the tool, or case. It has a 90 degree head that's geared and it turns by the handle. About 12 inches long with a variety of driving bits. IIRC, it was pricey, but perfect for the job.



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post #6 of 13 Old Sep 11th, 2008, 8:28 pm
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

Very interesting topic to me.

If you ask a dealer he will tell you no need and set from the factory.

Talk to a normal rider and he will repeat what he has heard, no need.

After using a very sophisticated FI controller on my Road Glide I am very aware of TPS and IAC in relation to AFR.

So other then the screw driver and wrench what gage is used to sync them. I have seen an add in BMWON for one I think?

Point is I want whatever it takes to do it.

End of this month I have 9 days to do my 12K, shock swap, and would love to have what I need to do this also.

At that point I would call out for a Learning Session to all in my area to do just the sync together and learn. I then would be willing to lend it out starting closest to home, then to all who would want to use it.

I am not looking for anything from it other then knowing it is correct.

AFR is so dependent on correct TPS and IAC that I just don't trust they are optimal. It would be worth it to me to buy the gage and send it off just to see where these things are set to and just how consistent, or inconsistent they are set.

Last question since #4 is the base, do you do 3-4, 2-3, and 1-2? Or do you stay on 4 for the entire sync, or does it mater?

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post #7 of 13 Old Sep 11th, 2008, 9:05 pm
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

The cheapest way to go about it is to buy a four stick mercury. The electronic ones are nice, but man, they can be pricey for something you won't use a lot.

#4 is your base reading, you adjust the other three to match. Order isn't real important and you may have to adjust more than once, so don't lock down the nut till you're done. It doesn't hurt to run some cleaner thru the bodies first (they can get dirty). Oh yeah, the bike has to be at operating temp.

I googled 90 degree screwdriver and came up with a bunch of hits including this one. That's an example, google away and pick your poison.

Here is an example of the mercury stick. Once again, let your fingers do the walking.

Another option: I could send you my stuff to use if you don't drink the mercury and amputate a body part with the screwdriver.



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post #8 of 13 Old Sep 11th, 2008, 10:01 pm
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

So I see a hundred for the gage, and like it is non Mercury.

So what size adapter is needed?

And will it cover the range with its scale of 40cm Hg?

Lee
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post #9 of 13 Old Sep 12th, 2008, 2:42 am
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

I've been using a Morgan Carbtune, about the same price, works fine on the LT. http://www.carbtune.com/ Probably where Grif got his 90 screw driver.

-Scott

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Last edited by scurrie; Sep 12th, 2008 at 2:50 am.
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post #10 of 13 Old Sep 12th, 2008, 9:05 am Thread Starter
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

Thanks Guys,
That was the info I was looking for. I am going out to tear the old girl apart now and check the valves, then I will proceed from there. Can the sync be carried out with the tank on the bike, or do I need to get extra fuel line like I did with my old Kawasaki? I bought caps, and I am going to remove the old hose that was connected to the cannister.
Thanks again! Rick
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post #11 of 13 Old Sep 12th, 2008, 11:55 am
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

Quote:
Originally Posted by K12Rick
Thanks Guys,
That was the info I was looking for. I am going out to tear the old girl apart now and check the valves, then I will proceed from there. Can the sync be carried out with the tank on the bike, or do I need to get extra fuel line like I did with my old Kawasaki? I bought caps, and I am going to remove the old hose that was connected to the cannister.
Thanks again! Rick
You can lift the tank just enough to get at the throttle bodies, but be careful not to stress the fuel quick disconnects or you will be replacing those too. I velcro a small piece of wood to the fuel lines right at the disconnects so they don't flex.

Let us know how far off you sync was.

-Scott

2005 LT
ARS NS7C
BMWMOA #113753
All Roads Lead To Roads...
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post #12 of 13 Old Sep 13th, 2008, 11:55 am
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

I am thinking of buying one of these. http://store.bobsbmw.com/browseprodu...-Balancer.HTML
A friend of mine has one and we used it to sync his goldwing. It worked very good. Just another thought.

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post #13 of 13 Old Sep 13th, 2008, 5:01 pm
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Re: Throttle Body Sync

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Wheelroadtrip
I am thinking of buying one of these. http://store.bobsbmw.com/browseprodu...-Balancer.HTML
A friend of mine has one and we used it to sync his goldwing. It worked very good. Just another thought.
Yep that is the one I saw in BMWON. I think I am going to take some advice and borrow a 4 stick. See how bad it is off, then make a decision if I want to invest and do every 12,000.

The important part of that link I saw and never gave a great deal of thought to is the Cable Stretch. I will check my cables even at 12,000 miles, adjust if necessary, then sync the bodies. Only makes sense.

The other Tip in this thread is the cleaning of the TB prior to this. I am running 6 oz of Sea Foam in every tank until the 21st. I will then get a can of Sea Foam Fog for them, but mostly the piston tops.

I am really curious how we all make out on this.

I have had a slight vibration at idle in the bars since day one. Not sure if it is this, or plugs but cant hurt.

While not an LT but a FJR, this 35 dollar gadget got er done! If you scroll down you will see the difference. Interesting info on the allowable deviance between TB.

http://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=21

Lee
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15 R1200 RTLC San Marino Blue Metallic (Sold)
10 Liquid Silver FJR1300 (Sold)
O7 Biarritz Blue Metallic LT (Totaled 2010)
ATGATT I am breathing proof.
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