Final drive pivot bearing adjustment. - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 15 Old Sep 3rd, 2008, 4:53 am Thread Starter
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Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

I'm looking for some help here guys. If I grab the top and bottom of the rear wheel of my 2000 k12lt (42,000 miles) there is a small amount of movement, this seams to come and go when I check it from day to day. Could this movement originate from the final drive pivot bearings and if so is it a job that I could carry out myself? I have the BMW workshop manual and it looks like the final drive is on a pair of pivots the one on the inboard side of the shaft (next to the wheel) being the adjustable one, the manual calls this a floating stud. So if I'm reading it right all I need to do is loosen off the lock nut (160Nm) back off the floating stud, then adjust back in to 7Nm and tighten the lock nut back to 160Nm. It looks like the outboard stud is not adjustable and is also torqued to 160Nm. Hopefully if the bearings are ok this should adjust out the rear wheel movement. Is there anything else I should know, will the lock nut have thread lock on it? should I heat it first to overcome the thread lock if any? Don't want to damage anything trying to do this. Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 15 Old Sep 3rd, 2008, 6:50 am
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Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

Are sure it is the pivot bearings and not the bearings inside the final drive that are going?

The pivot bearings can go bad but I don't think re-torquing the studs is going to help at all. You'll need to replace the bearings themselves. There are also some aftermarket bronze bushings that can be used instead that are supposed to be better than the bearings. I don't recall who makes them but I'm sure someone here will be able to point you to them if interested.

Good Luck,
Kevin

1999 K1200LT, patiently waiting for a new model.
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post #3 of 15 Old Sep 3rd, 2008, 8:46 am Thread Starter
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Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevincook
Are sure it is the pivot bearings and not the bearings inside the final drive that are going?

The pivot bearings can go bad but I don't think re-torquing the studs is going to help at all. You'll need to replace the bearings themselves. There are also some aftermarket bronze bushings that can be used instead that are supposed to be better than the bearings. I don't recall who makes them but I'm sure someone here will be able to point you to them if interested.

Good Luck,
Kevin
Thanks kevin, no not sure its the pivot bearings but as the wheel movement is only top to bottom and not fore and aft I thought it likely. Plus my friendly BMW dealer say this sort of wheel movement can be adjusted out. But not sure what they are going to adjust as when I spoke to them I had not looked at the manual. Also a friend has just had the same movement adjusted out on his 1100gs, but I just wondered if anyone had any advise on performing this adjustment on thek12lt. Hope its not the final drive bearing as we are going to Spain on it soon.
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post #4 of 15 Old Sep 3rd, 2008, 9:34 am
 
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Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

I had exactly the same symptoms at 28,000 miles and, like you, my friendly local BM mechanic had a look and told me that the floating stud needed adjustment.

Apparently, some owners mistake this for bearing failure, so you're right to check the floating stud first. The adjustment is really easy, you've got the correct process in your thread above. Once you've undone the lock nut, you just turn the inner bolt and you'll feel when you've taken the play out. Then lock it up and you're done...it just takes 10 minutes.

Of course, if it doesn't work....then it's your bearings!!!
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post #5 of 15 Old Sep 3rd, 2008, 10:12 am
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Wink Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

I had the loose wheel symptoms right before CCR and was dreading a FD replacement when my dealer told me it was the torque om my pivot bearings had loosened up. He tightened them to specs and the Bike was fine all the way to CCR & back. I did however go ahead and purchase the aftermarket paralever bushing kit just in case the old bearings were shot. I intend to replace them in the near future.

John

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'00 K1200LTC "Katie"
'95 Triumph "Tigger"
'12 Triumph 800XC "Tigger II" (RIP)
'12 Triumph 1200 Explorer "Shadow Tigger"
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post #6 of 15 Old Sep 3rd, 2008, 6:41 pm
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Replace the bearings

Those of us who have inspected a number of pivot bearings have noted that the early needle bearings are prone to notching of the races and flattening of the needles.

That these bearings don't hold up is no secret, to the point that there is an aftermarket bushing available to replace the BMW bearings. (I am not suggesting that the bushing is better, I don't really know, but that fact that such an aftermarket bushing is availabe is testimony that these bearings don't hold up very well.)

I am betting that every time some BMW shop says that the pivots need to be retorqued, that the bearings are damaged. The reason the pivot is loose is not because the pivot has loosened, it is because the bearings are breaking down.
Just retorquing the pivots without inspecting the bearings makes no sense to me.

Edited to add link to another thread with dicussion of two OEM pivot bearing types and the aftermarket bushing: http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17386

Last edited by CharlieVT; Sep 3rd, 2008 at 8:26 pm.
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post #7 of 15 Old Sep 3rd, 2008, 9:25 pm
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Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

I guess I will be finding out if they are damaged on my bike or not. I now have a small amount of play in my rear wheel that looks like it is the paralever bearings (definitely not the rear drive ball bearing)
Will see what my dealer says!!!

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post #8 of 15 Old Sep 4th, 2008, 11:15 am Thread Starter
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Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. This afternoon I successfully removed the rear wheel, backed off the locknut (160Nm) easy with a 5 foot length of pipe on the end of the wrench and no thread lock used. I had thought the floating bearing stud (12mm allen screw) may turn with the lock nut but this was not the case either loosening or torquing back up. I marked the floating bearing stud with a horizontal pencil line before I started and adjusted in to 9Nm, backed off then adjusted in to 7Nm. The pencil line is now at 45 degrees so its adjusted in about an 8th of a turn, then refitted the locknut to 160Nm no problem, refitted the rear wheel, checked for bearing play by grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel and its rock steady, no play. So for now I'm happy , I know it would make sense to remove the rear drive and check the bearings but I guess if the bearings are on their way out it wont be long before the wheel play returns.
Are any special tools required to remove the bearings, anyone know of a blow by blow account of how to do it, or is the simplest solution to remove the rear wheel drive and take it to my friendly BMW dealer to remove the worn bearings and fit new ones.
Thanks again, Geoff.
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post #9 of 15 Old Sep 4th, 2008, 2:12 pm
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Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

I just read my Warranty Booklet and it states that there is only 7500Km warranty on the "swing arm bearings". I assume from this that I'm SOL for a warranty replacement paralever bearing?? or has anyone else had this bearing replaced after 7500 Km (~4600miles) under warranty??

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post #10 of 15 Old Sep 4th, 2008, 11:31 pm
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Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

Good timimg, I just noticed this movement on my 05' also. I can move the rear wheel up and down just enough to feel a little movement but none side to side.

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post #11 of 15 Old Sep 5th, 2008, 11:00 pm
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Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RealWing
I just read my Warranty Booklet and it states that there is only 7500Km warranty on the "swing arm bearings". I assume from this that I'm SOL for a warranty replacement paralever bearing?? or has anyone else had this bearing replaced after 7500 Km (~4600miles) under warranty??
Had them replaced on a 1999, K1200LT at 44,000 and a 2005, R1150R at 17,000. Neither were covered by BMWs warranty . Adjustment of the floating bearing only gave temporary results in both cases.
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post #12 of 15 Old Jul 3rd, 2009, 12:46 pm
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Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

Thus is an older thread, but I am having a similar issue. Does anyone know if you can drive the new bearings ino place or do they have to be pressed. Thanks.
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post #13 of 15 Old Jul 3rd, 2009, 7:42 pm
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Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

They dont need to be pressed in, you need a low toque wrench,
changed mine about 2 month ago, just got back from john o Groats,
a 1200mile round trip and its fine,
I pencil marked everything to go back as it came off,

I think there might be something about the driveshaft being out of sink or something,
only thing that went wrong was the Speedo bolt snapped, sorted it with a quick fix.
Cost of pivot bearings are low.
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post #14 of 15 Old Jul 3rd, 2009, 9:04 pm
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Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbmac
Thus is an older thread, but I am having a similar issue. Does anyone know if you can drive the new bearings ino place or do they have to be pressed. Thanks.
The manual calls for heating the bearing area to 100deg C, but I just tapped them out with an appropriate diameter socket. Tapped the new races in with a bearing tool I had in the shop. Could have done it with a socket.

John
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2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #15 of 15 Old Jul 4th, 2009, 1:03 am
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Wink Re: Final drive pivot bearing adjustment.

Ditto here as well. There was an article in the BMWON some time ago showing how you could do this with an appropriate socket to drive the old ones out, but he used a long bolt and some big washers to squeeze the new ones in.

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
The manual calls for heating the bearing area to 100deg C, but I just tapped them out with an appropriate diameter socket. Tapped the new races in with a bearing tool I had in the shop. Could have done it with a socket.

John & Marilyn Fisher
'00 K1200LTC "Katie"
'95 Triumph "Tigger"
'12 Triumph 800XC "Tigger II" (RIP)
'12 Triumph 1200 Explorer "Shadow Tigger"
Hillsboro, Oregon

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