Originally Posted by lnowell
I searched for the post on the steering dampener re-build some time back but I could not locate it. Does anyone have the link to that post? Has anyone actually tried it and had it work?
I have done it twice, for two different LT's. 2000 and 2004 models.
Both purchased used. First one had oil leakage second one had some free gap, as Andy described it.
Both cases I removed dampener from bike. This requires front wheel removal and front fender removal.
I opened a small all slot screw in dampener rod, took eye screw away from from rod, took circlips off from damper body ends and pushed entire rod with piston out from dampener. This push seal out. This has to be done to both directions while there are similar seals on both ends.
Then I took that seal with me and I went to hydraulic spare part shop and purchased two new seals according to sample. Price was 1,5 Euro (about 2 USD) each.
Next phase is to clean all parts well.
Assembly. Take seal and put some oil into it's outer surface and into it's hole. Oil should be same as you are going to use in dampener. I am not hundred percent sure what oil is best/correct, but I have used automatic gearbox oil. Front fork oil should be ok as well, I think. In any case both oil types are used in hydraulic's.
Push now one seal into its place, install circlip. Keep dampener so, that it is open end upwards. Pour some oil into dampener. Put piston rod into it (blind end first) and push it to the end, against seal. Now pour oil inside so that it is full of oil. Put seal into its seat and push it inside to end of it's seat. A small seal part inside rod is coming out with some oil. Install circlip to secure end seal. Now pull rod out, fill rod hole with oil, if it is not full. Push it down and pull it up couple of times to see if air bubbles ore coming out from dampener. Make sure that rod hole is full of oil whole time when you do this to avoid any air to go into dampener. Put small seal part into rod hole back and install that slot screw into it. Tighten it well (no torque info available). Install eye screw to the end (correct one, as it was in the beginning). Now it it is ready to be assembled back into your bike.
You have to clean both, dampener thread and dampener bolt well with solvent and then use thread locking glue to lock fixing screw when installing dampener into the bike. Install fender and wheel.
So, this was how I have done it.
Whole work takes maybe 2 hours altogether. And total costs are two seals and oil. Few bucks. But your dealer won't tell that to you. He will sell you new dampener with several hundred bucks and installation work additionally! Attn! Seals are not awailable by BMW, only complete damper.
So, it is not big job, if you know what to do and how to do it. And if you are interested to do it.
I know that many of you are afraid of this job because of insurance or warranty issues. Well, then it is better to let your dealer to do it.
What is interesting is that these seals used by BMW are seals for rotating shafts, not for shafts making stroke thus this rod is only for stroke movement, thus quite slow one. Maybe it is used because of seal lip. I think that it is keeping shaft cleaner and I think it keeps dirt better out from dampener.
Sorry, I do not have any pictures done of that work. That is why I tried to desribe as well as I could.