OK...all of this talk about the final drive failures made me go out in the garage and drain the drive oil.....and it certainly looks like it needed it!

The good news is that nothing but dirty black gear oil poured out....even the magnetic plug had nothing but sludge on it....then again, I only have 14k on a 2002.

Anyway.....now that I have drained the oil, luck would have it I can't get the filler plug out.

This isn't some reverse thread thing is it? Before I REALLY lean on the allen wrench, and strip the head, and rake my knuckles across the brake caliper or rotor, and scream obsenities.....anyone have a suggestion? I hesitate to take heat to the aluminum housing. And again, I really don't want to lean on it for fear of stripping the head. I tried a pipe extension on the wrench to get more leverage, but the fear of stripping....

Appreciate any help you may have....oh, did I mention...I have drained the oil so now I can't drive it anywhere. Nice!

Mike

I suggest you remove the fill plug before the drain plug to ensure you can drive it somewhere in case the fill plug won't come out.

I haven't changed the FD oil on my LT as yet so I can't say for sure that this is a right-hand thread, but I can't imagine it being left-handed. I assume you just need to apply more torque. A little heat might help, but be careful you don't overdo it.

Start with a highend allen wrench or socket. I have used them all over the years and have settled on using Snapon or Mac only when it comes these socket head plugs. When removing do it in one quick shove on the tool. Kinda a abrupt movement. The slow steady pressure seems to strip them out everytime. And yes they are a normal right hand thread. Just kinda pop it loose......

Just changed mine. It's not a reverse thread. I know it's too late now, but several posts on this site suggest making sure you can get the fill plug loose before draining. It must be a pretty common problem. Most of the really knowledgable members on this site are at CCR (a 1200lt event). So hold on, you'll probably get some more info from the wiser ones among us.

It's a standard rh thread. If you really think it may require a lot of torque to remove it, go get some valve grinding (lapping) compound at NAPA and coat the hex key. The lapping compound will fill any voids and increase grip to prevent slippage. Then you could even use a small cheater pipe.

Get a good quality 3/8" or 1/2" drive Allen socket. While applying firm pressure on the ratchet or break over handle, tap the socket with a hammer. The vibration will usually cause the plug to release.

Yep....I guess you (I) should always remove the filler plug first....just in case you (I) have to drive it somewhere to get the plug out.

Well, it is out without damage....to either me or the bike.

Just took some serious pulling with the cheater pipe on the wrench....and no, it is not a reverse thread....it is just on there pretty well.

Thanks for the feedback....it is out and re-filled...ready to go tomorrow.

Mike

Steady pressure is just going to strip it or break "something"..

You need to jar it loose, if you're strong enough a "whack" from the "butt" of your hand (that's how I do it) should "pop" it loose.

If you're going to use a hammer go with a rawhide or fiber (plastic) one, put some pressure on the allen wrench (to make sure it doesn't come out of the hole) and give it a good "tap"

Edit: glad you got it, use my advice next time (trust me)

Glad you got things unstuck.. now, make sure there is a washer in there next time and don't "weld" it tight.... just "snug" is plenty.. make sure you can remove it at whatever pressure you set... and remember, it will be harder to undo.

Just curious about the "dirty black gear oil" that came out. I've got 36,000 miles and have changed mine 5-6 times and I don't remember anything but clean oil coming out. Wonder if mine is unusual or maybe yours went a little too long between changes? I'm not using synthetic....

I know this sound silly but give the plug a rap with a hammer like you are driving a nail. 99% of the time it will jar the threads loose before even putting a wrench on them.

Remember this is an Aluminum alloy housing so don't use a 5 lb maul with a 3 foot handle.

Roy

Hi, Dan. I don't use synthetic, either. I've had my double naught for just over a year and I've changed the FD fluid 3 times. The first, shortly after I bought it with 17,500 miles on it. It looked pretty dark that time too. Lots of gunk on the magnet. The past two times have been at oil change intervals. Much lighter in color and the last time, very little crud on the magnet.

Thanks, thought that maybe I was removing the wrong oil. I change all three (3) primary fluids every 6,000 miles at the same time. One mess as opposed to three messes and I've been surprised at how clean it is. Seems a waste to remove it as it looks so clean, but I write it off to cheeeeeep insurance. Now the engine oil is a different color. Dark and grungy.....

When you reinstall the plugs don't over tighten them. Use a new sealing ring and torque both the fill and drain plugs to 23nm. That's not very tight.

Some ham fisted mechanic may have over tightened them before. As stated above, a good quality hex socket on a ratchet will work better than the allen wrench in the tool kit.