Factory Top Trunk Luggage Rack Install - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 8 Old Dec 22nd, 2005, 1:01 pm Thread Starter
 
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Factory Top Trunk Luggage Rack Install

I just ordered the OEM Luggage Rack from my local dealer and plan to install it myself on my 05 LT.

I have the mechanical and electrical ability to do this, but I am looking for advice from anyone who has dared to install one. Most of the time accessories do not have installation instructions, although the rack will come with a template to drill the holes.

I have installed the rear wing/3rd brake light on my 03 Wing and my buddy's 04 Wing without any problems and the harnesses were all in place and the wiring harnesses were plug-and-play.

The questions I have are:

1) Is the electical portion of the rack installation plug-and-play?
2) How much of the LT needs to be disassembled to install the rack? (less or more than the instructions tell you?)

Thanks and Merry Christmas

Dave Allen
2005 K1200LT
2005 330 CI Convertible
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post #2 of 8 Old Dec 22nd, 2005, 2:35 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crestwood330
The questions I have are:

1) Is the electical portion of the rack installation plug-and-play?
2) How much of the LT needs to be disassembled to install the rack? (less or more than the instructions tell you?)
I've installed two. Yes, the electrical is plug-n-play -- once you find the trunk-end of the wires. The connector is *usually* behind the plate that holds the vanity mirror in place, but sometimes is tucked back into the small tunnel between the mirror plate and the left speaker housing (the wires all enter the trunk at the left front bottom edge of the trunk, with the brake light wires going up to the top half of the trunk under the left speaker housing to the tunnel.

As to the installation, no bike disassembly at all -- the trunk need not come off the bike.

Last recommendations -- *ignore* the template -- I'm not sure it was photocopied accurately, and it's not at all clear to me that it does anything but guide you to *mis*position the holes.

The rack has a black plastic base and a chrome-plated top part. Lay the rack on top of the trunk and spend a *lot* of time aligning it to get it "square" fore/aft/left/right. Don't put it too close to the passenger backrest.

Once aligned, with only the rack base in place, stick a pen or an awl through one of the threaded brass inserts in the rack base feet and mark your first drill hole.

Drill the hole *straight vertical* into the trunk (not perpendicular to the outer surface of the trunk, which leaves the screws exiting the trunk at an angle, trying to screw into vertical thread inserts in the rack!).

This part is critical: watch closely as you start the hole and make *sure* the bit doesn't walk as it begins to bite into the trunk (this is hard to do -- you may have to initially start the bit perpendicular to the surface to initially "break" into the outer surface, then immediately rotate the drill back vertical to proceed with the hole). If you don't, eventually you'll end up with four holes that are off just enough to require you to stress/force the feet into position -- or worse, have to widen a hole, leaving a bit of the original hole peeking out from under the rack and providing a water intrusion path.

Once the first hole is in, install the first screw (with its angled "pad") from the inside of the trunk and into the rack. Using the installed rack base as a *true* template, mark the next hole location. Remove the rack, and drill the next hole. Reinstall both screws, then mark the third hole, etc. This may be a pita due to all the on-off-on-off gyrations, but it's the only way I know to *ensure* the rack goes on without mis-positioned holes -- particularly as there's not much room about the rack base feet to cover a mis-located hole.

BTW, avoid the temptation to really torque down the screws -- as soon as they start to go "snug," you can easily see the top surface of the plastic trunk lid start to deform locally around the rack foot if you go too far.

All-in-all, not a hard job by any means -- just requires patience/care to get it on "right."

HTH,

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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post #3 of 8 Old Dec 22nd, 2005, 2:40 pm
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Not much diassembly. Open your vanity mirror in the top case and look for a pair of wires with an unused connector on the end. That's where the connector form the luggage rack will plug into.

With template in place (tape it down so it won't move) marke the spots where you need to drill the holes. Start with a pilot hole and then go to the correct size. Don't forget they need to be drilled on a slight angle. You'll know when you put the feet of the luggage rack on the top case lid that they are not straight up and down.

Hope this helps,



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post #4 of 8 Old Dec 22nd, 2005, 4:37 pm
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Here are some details of the installation that I posted a while back:

The instructions call for drilling using the BMW template, which is just the black plastic part, with the chrome removed. Nice idea if you have an extra one. Because if you take yours apart to use it that way, you'll ream out the threads. What I did was get a nice long screw, about 3 inches, I think, and screw it in from the top side of the black part.(The threads go all the way through.) Then I set the black part, with the screw in from the wrong direction, just next to the hole to be drilled, in its proper orientation. That way I used the long screw as a visual guide, lining my drill bit up to be parallel with it. Be careful to do that from two angles 90 degrees apart, and your holes will come out just fine, as mine did. It is important, as Mark said, to get them at the correct angle, otherwise you'll never get the screws threaded into the rack without cross-threading them. Also the spacers will not sit flush on the inside of the top of the topcase.

I also suggest doing them one screw at time. Then you can install the first screw, and use the base(black part) to mark the second screw. Then mark the third screw, with the first two screws installed, etc. It takes a little longer, but you can't get too far out alignment. I put masking tape on the top case, so my marks would show up, and to keep from scratching the paint.

It is also important to use the paper template, because of the shape of the spacers, and the shape of the plastic liner of the topcase lid. If it is moved too far back, the spacer will come out on a ridge, and be useless. BMW did a very nice job on the spacer part. They fit perfectly. In fact it's hard to tell they aren't part of the liner itself.

Buck W.
San Diego
1999 K1200LT
Canyon Red

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post #5 of 8 Old Dec 22nd, 2005, 5:25 pm
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Blue painters tape

We use it whenever drilling through plastic.

Use blue painters tape to make reference lines and mark where the holes will be drilled and use a small sharp bit to drill a pilot hole through the tape - less chance of a walking bit this way.

Another trick is to start a hole with the point of a spade bit - you must be very careful - not too much pressure and slow speed 'cause they cut through plastic like butter.

Dave

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post #6 of 8 Old Dec 22nd, 2005, 9:34 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thank you for all of the responses. This information is exactly what I was looking for.

Dave Allen
2005 K1200LT
2005 330 CI Convertible
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post #7 of 8 Old Jan 2nd, 2006, 9:27 am
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Wiring for luggage rack

I also am trying to install a factory luggage rack from BMW on my K12LT.
I see no mention of the wiring, i know where the connections are, but do you drill a separate hole and install a grommet for the rack wires? Thanks!
John
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post #8 of 8 Old Jan 2nd, 2006, 9:57 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjr128
do you drill a separate hole and install a grommet for the rack wires? Thanks!
John
Yes -- a large hole (1/2"? can't remember -- obvious from the grommet) directly under the center of the front bar of the rack, where the wiring harness exits the rack.

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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