Originally Posted by Crestwood330
The questions I have are:
1) Is the electical portion of the rack installation plug-and-play?
2) How much of the LT needs to be disassembled to install the rack? (less or more than the instructions tell you?)
I've installed two. Yes, the electrical is plug-n-play -- once you find the trunk-end of the wires. The connector is *usually* behind the plate that holds the vanity mirror in place, but sometimes is tucked back into the small tunnel between the mirror plate and the left speaker housing (the wires all enter the trunk at the left front bottom edge of the trunk, with the brake light wires going up to the top half of the trunk under the left speaker housing to the tunnel.
As to the installation, no bike disassembly at all -- the trunk need not come off the bike.
Last recommendations -- *ignore* the template -- I'm not sure it was photocopied accurately, and it's not at all clear to me that it does anything but guide you to *mis*position the holes.
The rack has a black plastic base and a chrome-plated top part. Lay the rack on top of the trunk and spend a *lot* of time aligning it to get it "square" fore/aft/left/right. Don't put it too close to the passenger backrest.
Once aligned, with only the rack base in place, stick a pen or an awl through one of the threaded brass inserts in the rack base feet and mark your first drill hole.
Drill the hole *straight vertical* into the trunk (not perpendicular to the outer surface of the trunk, which leaves the screws exiting the trunk at an angle, trying to screw into vertical thread inserts in the rack!).
This part is critical: watch closely as you start the hole and make *sure* the bit doesn't walk as it begins to bite into the trunk (this is hard to do -- you may have to initially start the bit perpendicular to the surface to initially "break" into the outer surface, then immediately rotate the drill back vertical to proceed with the hole). If you don't, eventually you'll end up with four holes that are off just enough to require you to stress/force the feet into position -- or worse, have to widen a hole, leaving a bit of the original hole peeking out from under the rack and providing a water intrusion path.
Once the first hole is in, install the first screw (with its angled "pad") from the inside of the trunk and into the rack. Using the installed rack base as a *true* template, mark the next hole location. Remove the rack, and drill the next hole. Reinstall both screws, then mark the third hole, etc. This may be a pita due to all the on-off-on-off gyrations, but it's the only way I know to *ensure* the rack goes on without mis-positioned holes -- particularly as there's not much room about the rack base feet to cover a mis-located hole.
BTW, avoid the temptation to really torque down the screws -- as soon as they start to go "snug," you can easily see the top surface of the plastic trunk lid start to deform locally around the rack foot if you go too far.
All-in-all, not a hard job by any means -- just requires patience/care to get it on "right."