Fuel Tank Union Nut Torque ? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 24 Old Dec 18th, 2005, 1:42 pm Thread Starter
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Question Fuel Tank Union Nut Torque ?

I recall the torque spec for the fuel tank union nut has changed. The book says 30 Nm. I recall the torque was increased to reduce leaks. Does anyone know what the updated torque spec is? Help I want to get the SOB Running. Going to go pull the filter now.
Thanks Pete
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post #2 of 24 Old Dec 18th, 2005, 1:59 pm
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Precisely what torque wrench are you going to use on that nut?

Dan
New Hampshire
2002 K1200LTC
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post #3 of 24 Old Dec 18th, 2005, 2:08 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BkrK12
Precisely what torque wrench are you going to use on that nut?
Dan I have the special tool to remove the nut. Snap-on torque wrench .

I just need to know the new torque spec for the nut.
The torque wrench is not the issue.
Pete
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post #4 of 24 Old Dec 18th, 2005, 4:27 pm
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Uh, I think Dan and a few other tool freaks are curious about exactly what torque wrench will work on that big sucker. How about a part number or description. The answer you're looking for isn't much good to the rest of us with out a way to check it.
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post #5 of 24 Old Dec 18th, 2005, 5:06 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murray
I just need to know the new torque spec for the nut.
Pete, hopefully you haven't removed it yet -- if so, then mark it with a white marker before removing and reinstall to the same position.

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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post #6 of 24 Old Dec 18th, 2005, 5:36 pm
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Bare hands, leather gloves, hold the tank between your legs and: Twist Off, Twist On. When reinstalling, clean everything, lube the inside of the nut, not the grommet. Make sure the little arrows stay lined up (having them off even 10 degrees, or so, makes connecting the QDs a lot harder). You can feel when it's tight enough and I doubt that I know anyone strong enough to overtighten that thing with bare hands. No leaks over 50K miles using the brute force method. Good luck, however you do it.

Dan
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2002 K1200LTC
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post #7 of 24 Old Dec 18th, 2005, 5:40 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mneblett
Pete, hopefully you haven't removed it yet -- if so, then mark it with a white marker before removing and reinstall to the same position.
Hi Mark thanks for the reply. Prior to removal I Set my torque wrench to the spec torque of 30 Nm about 22 Fp torque. When the nut became loose the wrench released indicating the torque was about 30 Nm. I changed the filter replaced the oem clamps with 3/8" stainless screw clamps. Installed a new rubber gasket and torqued the nut to 25 Fp about 35 Nm, Double checked arrow alignment and performed leak check. So far past the test. I like the white marker technique, If I did not have the tool for the nut I would have used your trick.
Thanks, Pete
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post #8 of 24 Old Dec 18th, 2005, 5:50 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjordans2000
Uh, I think Dan and a few other tool freaks are curious about exactly what torque wrench will work on that big sucker. How about a part number or description. The answer you're looking for isn't much good to the rest of us with out a way to check it.
Page 16.6 in the shop manual lists the part number. The BMW part number in the book is #161 710. The tool I received is marked BMW # 161 711. BTW any torque wrench will work the special tool is 3/8" drive.
Pete
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post #9 of 24 Old Dec 18th, 2005, 6:52 pm
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I'm pretty sure that the torque spec is 70 nm.

Paul Ford
01 R1150GS
90 K1200
73 R75/2
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post #10 of 24 Old Dec 18th, 2005, 7:24 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobygrape
I'm pretty sure that the torque spec is 70 nm.
Paul's right (or at least in the right ballpark). Much to my suprise, when BMW had the fuel quick-disconnect o-ring recall, they massively increaesd the torque spec -- more than doubled(!), IIRC. Out of concern that that was too much, I continue to use the white-line method.

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA

Last edited by mneblett; Dec 19th, 2005 at 1:53 am.
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post #11 of 24 Old Dec 18th, 2005, 7:28 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobygrape
I'm pretty sure that the torque spec is 70 nm.
Paul I was afraid of that 70 Nm. I will double check with my shop tomorrow.
Thanks , Pete
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post #12 of 24 Old Dec 19th, 2005, 1:22 am
 
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70 Nm torque also mentioned by Jack Hawley in the HoW (h.6).
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post #13 of 24 Old Dec 19th, 2005, 6:14 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerlt
70 Nm torque also mentioned by Jack Hawley in the HoW (h.6).
Jack Hawley wrote
Oh...forgot. 70Nm and you need the big nut tool. Also the two clamps at the
fuel distributor are to be closed completely across the crimp...not 4 mm
like the ones at the quick disconnects.

Thanks guys, I will re torque the wonderfull union nut to 70 Nm. That is a huge increase from 30 Nm, Fun -Fun -Fun.
Pete Murray
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post #14 of 24 Old Dec 19th, 2005, 8:05 am
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Ya know, 70 nM seems a lot for a not so robust piece of plastic. I don't torque them and they don't leak. I do have the beegest honking pair of pliers made by man, though.



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post #15 of 24 Old Dec 19th, 2005, 8:58 am
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Often the fuel pump plate tries to turn with the ring when torqueing to the higher spec, and it can be very difficult to get it aligned properly. I don't remember seeing a leak from that area, at least not since the design was changed and that ring was added. Early K12RS's had a different setup that caused leaking problems. On my own bike I don't try to get to 70 nm if the plumbing starts to turn too, but I do go tighter than the original spec.

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post #16 of 24 Old Dec 19th, 2005, 2:18 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobygrape
I'm pretty sure that the torque spec is 70 nm.
Paul as promised I called my shop Hermy's BMW. You have a great memory, The updated spec 70 Nm I repeat 70Nm. Thanks for everything. That more than doubles the old spec.
Pete Murray
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post #17 of 24 Old Dec 21st, 2005, 6:16 am Thread Starter
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Conclusion, Good luck torquing that SOG to 70 Nm. The best I could do was 52 Nm. I felt if I tried to increase the torque beyond that point I was at risk of breaking the metal fuel lines. I was stabilizing the metal lines with pump pliers.
Pete Murray
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post #18 of 24 Old Dec 21st, 2005, 7:17 am
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I've been using one of those rubber strap wrenches and they work great if you use the right sized version. It's a little tight on clearance and you don't get a lot of travel...but you just need enough to break it lose and then tight it back up again. The rubber strap gets a real good bite on the large ribs of the plastic nut. Easy off and easy on. Not sure of the torque...but just tighten it tight and no problems with leakage.


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post #19 of 24 Old Dec 21st, 2005, 8:27 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird
I've been using one of those rubber strap wrenches and they work great if you use the right sized version. It's a little tight on clearance and you don't get a lot of travel...but you just need enough to break it lose and then tight it back up again. The rubber strap gets a real good bite on the large ribs of the plastic nut. Easy off and easy on. Not sure of the torque...but just tighten it tight and no problems with leakage.
I have the special tool. BMW needs to make a new tool to stabilize the fuel pump assembly. Without proper stabilization of the pump assembly you are at risk of damaging the pump assembly. The strap wrench is a good substitute, But you do not know what torque was achieved with the strap wrench. Thanks for the help.
Pete Murray
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post #20 of 24 Old Dec 21st, 2005, 10:19 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murray
I have the special tool. BMW needs to make a new tool to stabilize the fuel pump assembly. Without proper stabilization of the pump assembly you are at risk of damaging the pump assembly. The strap wrench is a good substitute, But you do not know what torque was achieved with the strap wrench. Thanks for the help.
Pete Murray
I have literally tightened several dozen of these without using a torque wrench without a leak.



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post #21 of 24 Old Dec 22nd, 2005, 8:24 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
I have literally tightened several dozen of these without using a torque wrench without a leak.
I agree the special tool is not absolutely necessary other methods work. And if it don't leak beautiful.
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post #22 of 24 Old May 17th, 2006, 11:17 am
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This is very interesting.
Since buying the bike new in May 05, I have had the tank leak at this point 3 times, twice during the past week, the seal/gasket having been changed every time, the last time at a different dealer, due to the fact that I was away on a trip at the time.
I distinctly remember the last dealer setting the torque wrench to 30nm, after checking his official BMW LT maintenance manual.
In any case, my original dealer is going to change the tank, fuel pump and filter assembly under guarantee, as they suspect that the tank mouth could have a small defect.
When they start assembling it, I will mention the 30 to 70 increase and see what they say.
I agree with some of the posters that holding the pump assembly in place so that the arrows coincide is difficult when tightening the plastic cap nut.
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post #23 of 24 Old May 17th, 2006, 2:40 pm
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The higher torque spec is part of the fuel system recall that came out about a year ago. K bikes with this type of flange setup had the nut retourqed, and all bikes with quick disconnects were inspected for leakage and the crimp clamps checked for proper crimping.

Paul Ford
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post #24 of 24 Old May 17th, 2006, 3:01 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobygrape
The higher torque spec is part of the fuel system recall that came out about a year ago. K bikes with this type of flange setup had the nut retourqed, and all bikes with quick disconnects were inspected for leakage and the crimp clamps checked for proper crimping.
Yeah, but how much of the increase to 70Nm was anti-liability lawyer CYA? I can see going tighter, but 30 to 70? when most all of the orignally 30Nm tanks were not leaking?? Doesn't make sense to me (but then, I'm not the guy with the slide rule and the responsibility determining what is the "right" amount of torque, so I'll hush up now )

Hey, Paul -- this horse has been beaten long enough. How's about you bringing the benefit of your real-world experience over to the overheating catalyst thread, so I can stop throwing out wild___ guesses!

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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