First LT take down, pics and questions - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 7 Old Apr 22nd, 2008, 6:08 pm Thread Starter
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First LT take down, pics and questions

I decided it was now or never. Five + hours later, I have all the plastic, fuel tank, side panels, shifter linkage, and rear shock off. You may appreciate the system on pic #2, for keeping track of all the screws. It worked great for me.

LT take down pics. See the photos here:
http://www.sendpix.com/albums/08042215/4p913ga8d4/


The worst of it was the blinding sun, followed closely by the GD fuel lines which refused to come apart...and last, dealing with my vision issues wearing trifocals.

I found a pinched wiring harness between the frame. One of the fuel lines appears to have a slice in it. The one crash bar is not setting properly in the frame, not quite sure how to fix that yet.

Is the 90 degree battery terminal extensions seen on the PS service videos, a common auto store item? Are the fuel lines same as for US autos or do I need to buy preformed lines from BMW?

Taking the rear shock off, I was surprised at the use of US sized nuts and bolts.

There was no way to have taken the rear shock off without having taking everything else off, as the wiring harness was locked tight up against the front nut and you could not squeeze a small screwdriver in there.

The little 3/4 round pins with the stems for the linkage, two were pretty badly bent, the lube seals were either badly damaged or missing.

I have yet to attempt any part of the front shock due to fatigue.

A number of the fairing screws were in the wrong places. That being the case, I am not sure what is supposed to be were, so I will have to make due.

The vent line out from the fuel tank was plugged with debris at the first plastic fitting down from the tank.

One of the crash bars is bent and does not sit properly within the female section of the bars.....drill a hole and use SS screw to set in place?

The dealer I purchased the shocks from is on vacation till next week, so I may need some additional assistance if someone cares to share...e-mail me at [email protected], I can call if you like. I haven't taken the new shocks out of the box yet, so possibly there are more detailed instructions with the shocks.

On the canister facing forward on the bike, I cut the line on the left side before the canister and plug it, remove the line on the right side from the canister and vent to bottom rear of bike - correct? Is that it?

Do I need to remove the squeaky rubber gasket under the steering to access the front shock?

Will have more questions as I get further into this. The weather looks good for the week.

The air filter looked ok. Is the fuel filter scheduled to be replaced at or before 36K? If so, it appears all other maintenance has been done, I may leave that alone. On the other hand, I would kick myself if I had to take all this stuff off again for a $20 filter.

I have an auto switch to hook up to the turn signals. It was intended to be used with aux lights, which are not in the budget at this time. I do have a set of Motolights which could use this switch. What do I need to know to hook that up to the motolights?

Any other suggestions while this is all apart?

Vacuum lines, grommets, seals, wires, clips etc.

I did not see the rubber seal that was discussed in the service dvd's, at the front of the fairing.

I used some thick grease to hold the small metal washers inside the rubber grommets. Not having a garage, I can only hope we do not get any wind storms while this is laying in the driveway.

I am sure this is probably pretty boring to those that have done this a few times, but I greatly appreciate any and all feedback to assist getting this first attempted service over with.

Where do I buy the food grade silicone to grease the steering rubber?

I do believe that should be it for this evening. I need a pic or description of the Idle actuator, so I know what to look for. Not sure yet if I will replace it, but again, I do not wish to have to take this apart again, any time soon.

Thanks for your replies in advance!
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post #2 of 7 Old Apr 22nd, 2008, 7:50 pm
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Re: First LT take down, pics and questions

You can get the "food grade" stuff at any restaurant supply.

any "preformed" lines should be replaced with new preformed lines... so get the new fuel lines and the QD's ready... might as well put "metal" QD's.

Looks like you had some problems with the QD's..

The battery connection is a dealer item... or you can create one..

The outrigger can get bent if bike falls over. To "fix" you could gently tap the outer part into it. There is supposed to be bolts holding it in. Tap the "outrigger" into the holes (if you are sure there is nothing obstructing it.) it is a very snug fit even on new. BE CAREFUL as you tap up and down to straighten as you could damage the bike permanently. replacing the bracket is expensive, but might be a better fix....depends on how "bent" things are.

Check the "pinched" harness. Need to make sure the wires aren't shorted internally ... this is also a good time to put some tape over the "pinched part to make sure it doesn't short after putting things back together. Don't use too much because that will take up more space.

I posted a copy of the picture showing the actuator.

Replace all filters while you are in that deep... that way you can just "ride it" when all is back together.

Use "electrical grease" on all connectors and reseat them a couple of times to be sure you get good connectivity.

Oh, you can take off the center section... so you don't scratch or otherwise damage it.

...............
J.M.J...
Dcn Channing

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post #3 of 7 Old Apr 22nd, 2008, 8:36 pm Thread Starter
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Re: First LT take down, pics and questions

Thanks for the tips Deacon!

I am about to fall asleep here pretty quickly, but want to reply to a few items.

I was too tired to see what needed to be done to disconnect the rest of the stingray. I checked just now and see a few electric ties and that will come off. That will be a big help to complete the GPS mount install.

The outrigger is bent on the end that does not have the screw. If I push it in, it goes right back out. Don't want a rattle either. Maybe I will try some tape or force some wood to keep it in place. The right outrigger is missing the rubber bumper that had been riveted on top.

There are at least 5 connectors on each battery terminal, and a tight fit as is.
I intended to pre-wire this for aux lighting to be added later on. Still have not decided on what they may be. I think the HID low beam will be it, when money is available to do so.

I did not see the link for the Idle Actuator. Is it there, or I am just dang tired to see it?

The air filter was very clean and nothing at all in the housing.

Any thought on DIY vs paying the dealer to change the fuel filter. keep in mind this is being done in a stoned driveway, and I am risk for any dirt blowing by.

My disability income was decreased significantly as of Feb 08, so I have very little left for gas, and have nothing left to spend on any parts I can do without for another year. This bike was an expense I had never expected to incur.

To think this all started on a three day cruise, on a HD rental last August which was to be my last ride of this lifetime. Never dreamed we would end up with a BMW, or any bike for that matter.

I am really way too exhausted to consider doing anything else, including offering any more thoughts on the subject for this evening.

Greatly appreciate each and every little piece of information, THANKS!
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post #4 of 7 Old Apr 22nd, 2008, 9:50 pm
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Re: First LT take down, pics and questions

Here's where I posted the pic.. it's also in my "gallery" on this website.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35061

Take out the AF and kinda thump it backward on something solid... if you get a lot of dirt, may consider changing.

You MUST replace split fuel lines with the "molded" ones... the "metal QD's" are about the same cost as the BMW ones.

Changing the fuel filter ... not a big deal. with tank inverted on a groundcloth you can easily unscrew the big ring nut with a pair of big "channel lock" pliers. Any "dust" you might get in the tank will be caught by the filter.

However, if you are trying to keep things minimized, don't change it... especially if it was running okay and it doesn't have a ton of mileage..

(One thing for sure, your shocks cost you lots more.. =) But don't fret.. just make sure you hve thing clean as you go together.

as for the battery connector, you can get a piece of thick copper (or just flatten a piece of copper piping) then drill holes where you want them.. You can then bolt that to the battery.. =) Hey, it works on HD's =) You can use a piece of 3/8 OD copper and be happy with the area for bolting things. Just flatten in a vise or hammer flat a little at a time, then bend it in an "L" shape and drill the holes!!!

Sorry about the drop in revenue.... that just plain bites..... but either way, being practical /frugal is not a bad thing...

...............
J.M.J...
Dcn Channing

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post #5 of 7 Old Apr 22nd, 2008, 10:25 pm
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Re: First LT take down, pics and questions

Here is an old scan showing the screw lengths holding the body panels on.
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Randy Prade
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post #6 of 7 Old Apr 22nd, 2008, 10:35 pm
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Re: First LT take down, pics and questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by yechave
-------------------------------------

Taking the rear shock off, I was surprised at the use of US sized nuts and bolts.
Unless someone replaced the stock ones with non standard they are not US sizes. 16 MM if I remember correctly, which is only 0.005" over 5/8", so a 5/8" wrench will sometimes fit.
Quote:

------------------------------------------
Do I need to remove the squeaky rubber gasket under the steering to access the front shock?
Yes, just one screw holding it in the center, the sides slip into the brackets.
Quote:
------------------------------------------------
Where do I buy the food grade silicone to grease the steering rubber?
The best thing I found to stop the squeaking was Permatex spray belt dressing. Everything else I tried was a short time fix, the belt dressing lasted for months.
Quote:

I do believe that should be it for this evening. I need a pic or description of the Idle actuator, so I know what to look for. Not sure yet if I will replace it, but again, I do not wish to have to take this apart again, any time soon.
I have only heard of ONE idle actuator that was bad. Normally idle problems are due to vacuum leaks.

[/QUOTE]

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #7 of 7 Old Apr 23rd, 2008, 11:19 am Thread Starter
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Re: First LT take down, pics and questions

Greatly appreciate all the advice, pics etc.!!

Looks like a week of showers coming up, I am in the process of figuring out what parts to buy, what I can make, and how to fix what I can without buying more stuff.

The idle issue. It went from a steady 1k or so most of the time, with the occasional 11-1350 RPM's, once in a while. Now after the cables were adjusted and the unit tested, it fluctuates at idle, staying around 1k, but you can definitely see the tach needle moving around. It did not do that prior to being tested.

Both rubber bumpers on top of the outriggers are shot. One was missing, so I at first did not notice. BMW replacement or make my own from something else?

Other than checking the wiring harness, looking at the vacuum lines, making the terminals for the battery, and possibly trying to figure out how to mount the GPS to the bracket that now fits the Stingray, I don't expect to do anything else on this for at least a week.

Can't thank this forum and you guys for the wealth of information you provide.

Thanks and have a great day!!!
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