Originally Posted by Dman
I for one would be very grateful if you would post your pictures.
Thanks for your offer and for your hard work.
OK...follow link I gave in previous post to see where I was: Alarm malfunction, leaving me stranded. At least it was in my own driveway.
This bike is a 2001 LT.
Not an overly detailed description, but you should be able to follow. Here is how I did it:
1. remove pillion seat (two 5mm allen screws)
2. uncouple 2 round connectors whose wires go to top case, and free wires from clips
3. remove the top case liner (clips near latch, velcro near hinge)
4. remove the top case (four 5mm allen screws)
---picture of topbox removed, allen wrench sitting on 'deck'--
5. remove the 'deck' between the two panniers (four 5mm allen screws plus a few torx)
Now, you are looking at the infamous 'Canister', with the alarm unit partially hidden beneath it. If you need clearer instructions, search for 'Canisterectomy' elsewhere in this forum
6. Remove the alarm unit (optional...you could probably leave it in there, if you just wanted to by-pass it) Loosen the tie-wrap holding the canister, to get it out of the way, then find 3 or 4 philips head screws holding alarm bracket. Unplug cables. Lift alarm out, to bring back to workbench for later testing. Alarm part number BMW 65-75-2337-477.
---picture of alarm unit removed. Orange plug providing pin 2=ground(brown), pin 3=power thru fuse F3(Red/White), pins 5 & 6 = turn signal bulbs, that flash via alarm (Blue/Black and Blue/Red). White plug providing pin 1=programming connector (Brown/White), pin 2=Switched power from keyswitch(Red/Green), pins 3 & 4= 2 (Black) wires, in a common sleeve--these need to be connected together to let fuel pump run, pins 5 & 6= 2 black, in another sleeve--these need to be connected together to allow starter relay to pick. ---
7. Put a jumper to connect pins 3 & 4 together, and another jumper to connect pins 5 & 6. My jumpers came from a discarded computer power supply, as part of the cables that supply power to PATA/IDE hard drives. The pins (actually, sockets) were a little small, but they did stretch open enough to fit the pins on that white connector. I thought the wire was heavy enough to carry the current for fuel pump, and starter relay, so I went with those. I put some heat-shrink on the jumpers to minimize shorting possibilities.
---picture of 2 jumpers, with white heat-shrink, sitting on pillion, posing for the picture---
---picture of jumpers in place on white connector---
This is when I tried (successfully) to start the bike!
8. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly
I took the photos with my camera phone as I was nearing completion, as an afterthought, so I missed some details.
The 'proper' way to fully remove the alarm system would have involved removing right-side tupperware to get to fuel pump wires, and un-plug the harness leading to alarm, and re-plug the 2 remaining ends. Also, remove fuel tank to get at electrical box, to remove wires leading to starter relay, and put them back without the alarm harness connected. Way too much work, since I will be trying to replace the faulty alarm with a working one soon.