Silicone Dieiectric Compound - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 15 Old Dec 14th, 2005, 9:06 pm Thread Starter
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Question Silicone Dieiectric Compound

What is the consensus regarding this compound, I would like to reduce oxidation of the electrical connections. I know this product will reduce oxidation BUT ! Is this the best product for maintaining conductivity and reducing oxidation? Any other suggestions ? And why.
Thanks, Pete Murray
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post #2 of 15 Old Dec 14th, 2005, 9:15 pm
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You can't go wrong with it, but the downside is it tastes real bland.



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post #3 of 15 Old Dec 14th, 2005, 9:16 pm
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taste..

Grif, I've tasted your BBQ... I didn't notice any flavor problems!

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post #4 of 15 Old Dec 14th, 2005, 9:28 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
You can't go wrong with it, but the downside is it tastes real bland.
Grif
I would debate the palitability of the product,, It went well with the Sundried Tomatoes and Garlic Gourmet Cheese and Crackers.
Thanks Pete
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post #5 of 15 Old Dec 15th, 2005, 7:19 am
 
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Pete, Every time I work on the LT...EVERY connection I see, I pull apart and coat it with dielectric grease. Not too much, as you want to be careful not to over-fill the capacity of the connector. This stuff's been known to cure many of the LT's radio ills. But those connectors take a little work getting at.
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post #6 of 15 Old Dec 15th, 2005, 8:03 am Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by messenger13
Pete, Every time I work on the LT...EVERY connection I see, I pull apart and coat it with dielectric grease. Not too much, as you want to be careful not to over-fill the capacity of the connector. This stuff's been known to cure many of the LT's radio ills. But those connectors take a little work getting at.
Thanks Joe I am sure you know a thing or two about this product being a electrical engineer.
Another question, Can this product insulate (non conduction medium) or keep loose plug pin connectors from being connected ?
Pete
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post #7 of 15 Old Dec 15th, 2005, 8:09 am
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It won't insulate, but it will cause problems with loose ones if you use too much. A leetle dab will do ya, you're just trying to coat, not drown.



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post #8 of 15 Old Dec 15th, 2005, 8:14 am
 
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FYI: I'm a sound engineer...not an electrical engineer. But I digress...

Grif, I disagree. Dielectric does insulate. It is non-conductive...that's it's nature. Otherwise, we'd get bleed-over on every audio connection. And that's what we're trying to eliminate. But I do agree about the 'leetle goes a long way' suggestion.
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post #9 of 15 Old Dec 15th, 2005, 8:58 am Thread Starter
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Joe wrote.... Dielectric does insulate. It is non-conductive...

Precisely my concern.. I just needed reinforcement.
Thanks, Pete
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post #10 of 15 Old Dec 15th, 2005, 12:32 pm
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Pete,

I'm a former Navy (nuke) electronics tech. I don't touch a connector without schmoozing some dielectric in it, as others have noted. Never had an issue with connectors in any of the bikes or classic cars I used it in. Go for it!

Gregg L.
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post #11 of 15 Old Dec 15th, 2005, 2:08 pm
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I get good results with a copper compound paste, it is for any electrical connection good. And it can also be used on nuts and bolts that need to come loose again (exhaust,etc.) It is anti-seize and anti-corrision. What do you think of it?

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post #12 of 15 Old Dec 15th, 2005, 5:19 pm
 
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The word "copper" screams CONDUCTIVE. Not a good thing on electrical and audio connections . . . that is, if it's truly conductive. I use anti-seize compound that has copper in it...but that's for instances when two unlike metals come in contact with each other and oxidation occurs quickly.
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post #13 of 15 Old Dec 15th, 2005, 10:35 pm
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Joe, you are most correct. I use the copper paste on single high power connectors but never on multi pin connectors. I have seen sloppy techs make this mistake with expensive results.
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post #14 of 15 Old Dec 16th, 2005, 2:14 am
 
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I thought I was kinda sorta correct . . . but, "most" correct? I'll take it!

Two of my favorite uses for copper-based anti-seize are:
  1. The retainer rings on my MotoLights. Don't use the stuff and just try to replace a bulb a year or two later. Not fun.
  2. The threads on the axles of my Ninja. You've got hardened steel going into aluminum. Talk about locking up on ya. YIKES! And it doesn't take long. I use (BelRay) waterproof grease betwist the threads and anti-seize on the threads. Without doing that, you'll break many a tool trying to get those axles off that bike.
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post #15 of 15 Old Dec 16th, 2005, 7:04 am
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I sell two products from CAIG Laboratories you guys might be interested in . DeoxIT and PreservIT. DeoxIT cleans all electrical connections to like new. PreservIT lubricates, seals and protects. I've been selling a bunch of cans to local auto dealerships who have discovered it. There really isn't anything like it on the market. For you guys who want the technical details you can check out their web site www.caig.com
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