Loctite Application Guide - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 18 Old Mar 29th, 2008, 12:08 pm Thread Starter
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Loctite Application Guide

I'm in the middle of installing Ohlins shocks on my 02 LT. The rear one was a snap to put in, but the front was a lot more complicated as I had to take apart the joint where the A-arm connects to the slider tube fork bridge. I had to heat that nut to remove it as it was loctited. The manual calls for Loctite 2701 on re-assembly which I am still trying to find out about. Anybody familiar with that? I have some red #271 and some green which I don't know the number of and some blue which I think might be #243, which I don't think would be suitable for this application. Would either the red or the green that I have be suitable for this? While checking about Loctite on the web, I did come across a motorcyle application guide for Loctite which may be quite handy but it did not really mention the application I need.
http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_d...tion_Guide.pdf
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post #2 of 18 Old Mar 29th, 2008, 12:17 pm
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

Green loctite is good for this application.

I was changing a front tire when I installed my Ohlins and I found you could slide the forks down far enough to swap the shock if you unbolted the brake line hardware from the forks. I did not want to mess with that ball joint. Don't know if it is worth it if you didn't already have the front wheel off.

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post #3 of 18 Old Mar 29th, 2008, 12:22 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

I don't know how you did it because I still had a hard time getting it in there with the way I did it. I had to lower that A-arm as much as possible and the radiator hose was in the way. I had to use a lever to finally get it in. Did you have the shock compressed some how?
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post #4 of 18 Old Mar 29th, 2008, 12:30 pm
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

Nope. I don't remember the hose interference, but it was a bit of a puzzel. Had to hold it just right to get the old out and the new in. The key is to remove the rubber donut on top of the shock first before you try to remove the lower part from the arm. That is the only way I could get it to clear. Reverse the procedure for install - shock in first then add the rubber donut.

John
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2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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Last edited by jzeiler; Mar 29th, 2008 at 12:37 pm.
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post #5 of 18 Old Mar 29th, 2008, 1:11 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

I still don't know how you did it because that A-arm would not go low enough without removing the bolt for the ball joint there. That was not that much of a problem though. I had more trouble getting out a bolt holding the brake line to the fork as the allen head stripped out trying to remove it and I had to use vise grips to get it out. It was a real pain as it is hard to get at.
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post #6 of 18 Old Mar 29th, 2008, 5:28 pm
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

Guess I got lucky, I do remember cursing at it a few times and it was Dec of 06 when I did it so I may have forgotten a few things. I also had no trouble with the bolts on the brake line supports (that is always a big help when all fasteners work like they are supposed to).

The other thing I did wrong was during the pre-load set up I got screwed up on my measurements and was way off. Took about 30 minutes just to get it back to the starting point as there is not a lot of room for the spanner wrench in there. Measure twice - set once! Then go ride and enjoy the new shocks.

John
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2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
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post #7 of 18 Old Mar 29th, 2008, 5:32 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

What's that about set up? I thought they came set up from the factory as the guy at Kyle Racing where I bought mine asked my weight and whether I rode solo most of the time or not and if I travelled with luggage. Hopefully they're ready to go.
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post #8 of 18 Old Mar 29th, 2008, 5:32 pm
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

I do it by just removing the front tire and jacking up the front of the bike.

The rubber donut that's on top of the shock needs to be removed before you pull the old shock. Put the new shock in and then put the rubber donut on. No fuss, no muss.



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post #9 of 18 Old Mar 29th, 2008, 5:37 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

I was going by the Clymer manual's procedure. I still don't see how it would be possible to do that without doing what I did. What year is your bike?
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post #10 of 18 Old Mar 29th, 2008, 5:52 pm
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

Mine was a 2000, but I've done newer. The trick is the rubber donut.

Removing the calipers, front tire and jacking the bike up causes the forks to drop lower. Removing the rubber donut allows you to stick the long bolt on top of the shock thru the shock tower a greater distance. It clears the bottom fitting. Now, putting the rubber donut back on isn't exactly a picnic, but it's a helluva lot easier than taking the ball joint apart.



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Last edited by grifscoots; Mar 29th, 2008 at 6:00 pm.
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post #11 of 18 Old Mar 30th, 2008, 11:23 am Thread Starter
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

I probably would have tried it that way had I known about it, but it really wasn't that much extra work to get the ball joint apart. Just had to apply a little heat. I guess I'll use the green loctite in re-assembling it.
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post #12 of 18 Old Mar 30th, 2008, 1:26 pm
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyn1
What's that about set up? I thought they came set up from the factory as the guy at Kyle Racing where I bought mine asked my weight and whether I rode solo most of the time or not and if I travelled with luggage. Hopefully they're ready to go.
Mine probably was set OK but I read the paper that came with the shocks. Said to measure the height with no load, then measure the height with me on board. Then to set the "sag" distance to some value. That is where I messed up the pre load and had to start over. I would just ride it.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #13 of 18 Old Mar 30th, 2008, 2:12 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

Yea, I think that's the best course of action as the only adjustment seems to be the preload anyway and the rear has the remote adjuster if I need to use that.
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post #14 of 18 Old Mar 30th, 2008, 6:57 pm
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyn1
Yea, I think that's the best course of action as the only adjustment seems to be the preload anyway and the rear has the remote adjuster if I need to use that.
And to that I would add, ESA rocks!!!



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post #15 of 18 Old Mar 30th, 2008, 11:37 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

How do you have ESA on that?
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post #16 of 18 Old Mar 31st, 2008, 8:32 am
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyn1
How do you have ESA on that?
I have ESA on my GT. I tell ya, once you have it, you won't be wanting to go back.



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post #17 of 18 Old Mar 31st, 2008, 10:04 am Thread Starter
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

I've demo-ed a GT before with ESA and it is nice. I was thinking of getting a GT before, but since I've put some money in my LT now, I think I'll wait a while on getting something new. I'm wondering what the next generation LT would look like. Anybody have any info on that? I would assume they would use the GT engine.
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post #18 of 18 Old Apr 1st, 2008, 8:45 am
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Re: Loctite Application Guide

Man, what a hi-jack job.

Bill McAllister
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