Brake flushing - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 4 Old Feb 16th, 2008, 9:28 am Thread Starter
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Brake flushing

I am working up to flushing the brakes on my 2003 lt, (integrated abs).
I have the procedure for this from this site, which appears to be excellent.
At the start of the procedure, under tools needed ---4. BMW bleed screw & dust boot (P/N 34 21 2 330 310)-needed either to be inserted into factory fill fitting at right front caliper to permit bleeding, or to replace the factory fitting entirely.---.
This item does not appear to be covered in the following procedure, can someone explain it to me please, i appreciate it will be obvious, but as this will be the first time i attempt this job, i want to get the information sorted first, ie so that i dont make a pigs ear of it.
Many thanks
Stevie
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post #2 of 4 Old Feb 16th, 2008, 11:59 am
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Re: Brake flushing

Stevie

If it's like my 2000LT the factory fillpoint has a grubscrew which you must remove and replace with a bleed nipple. As you screw the nipple into the fillpoint it progressively opens a valve and allows fluid to flow so that you can bleed your brakes.

In my case I couldn't remove the grubscrew as the head had rounded off so I removed the fillpoint entirely and replaced it with a conventional bleed nipple which I bought from a local car spares shop.

The fillpoint unscrews from the caliper with an open ended spanner against the two flats.

I have discarded the fillpoint and can now bleed my brakes in the conventional way.

BTW I seem to remember that the fillpoint is locktited in place so you may need some heat to remove it from the caliper.

Regards

Chris
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post #3 of 4 Old Feb 16th, 2008, 12:07 pm
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Re: Brake flushing

Stevie,


Look at both your front calipers. If they both have bleed screws you are OK and can skip that part. If one looks different and has a round cylinder in place of the bleed nipple you will need a bleed screw to insert into that "fill adapter". Some have it and some don't. It can be removed and replaced with a bleed screw or you can remove the plug in the end and just screw in the bleed screw. The fill adapter has a check valve in it that must be depressed with the bleed screw.

If you are also flushing the control circuits there are two fittings that are very hard to get to on the sides of the unit. These are the cross feed ports and have very little fluid so it is OK to skip those. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions. It is really a very easy procedure once you have done it but the first time cam be intimidating.

John
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post #4 of 4 Old Feb 16th, 2008, 12:29 pm
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Talking Re: Brake flushing

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevie1
I am working up to flushing the brakes on my 2003 lt, (integrated abs).
I have the procedure for this from this site, which appears to be excellent.
At the start of the procedure, under tools needed ---4. BMW bleed screw & dust boot (P/N 34 21 2 330 310)-needed either to be inserted into factory fill fitting at right front caliper to permit bleeding, or to replace the factory fitting entirely.---.
This item does not appear to be covered in the following procedure, can someone explain it to me please, i appreciate it will be obvious, but as this will be the first time i attempt this job, i want to get the information sorted first, ie so that i dont make a pigs ear of it.
Many thanks
Stevie
Keep that fluid away from your paint.

Check pad thickness and inspect for both radial and axial taper.

Rob Nelson

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