Stripped Valve Cover Bolt - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 7 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 4:40 pm Thread Starter
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Stripped Valve Cover Bolt

I did my 12K on my '03 last week, slowly following Paul's DVD's with the Clymer at hand. Everything went fine and I was relieved that things were not as complicated as I feared. That is - until I began to button things back up. As I torqued the bolts on the valve cover, I ran into one that wouldn't tighten. I removed it to find the threads filled with material from the head. Fortunately (I think), the bolt is one on the bottom, in the middle, so it may not be an immediate emergency. I know this bike had at least two previous owners, one or both of which had little mechanical ability. It is obvious that things were removed using improper tools (pliers instead of hex wrenches, for example). Anyone know if these can be tapped or some such? I know aluminum is tricky to work with, but I shudder to think of the cost for a new head.

'08 Goldwing Comfort/GPS
'03 Silver LT
'93 Harley FLHTC
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'59 Excelsior
'60 Cushman Super Eagle (for my paper route)
Reg Gosnell
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post #2 of 7 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 5:28 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reggosnell
I did my 12K on my '03 last week, slowly following Paul's DVD's with the Clymer at hand. Everything went fine and I was relieved that things were not as complicated as I feared. That is - until I began to button things back up. As I torqued the bolts on the valve cover, I ran into one that wouldn't tighten. I removed it to find the threads filled with material from the head. Fortunately (I think), the bolt is one on the bottom, in the middle, so it may not be an immediate emergency. I know this bike had at least two previous owners, one or both of which had little mechanical ability. It is obvious that things were removed using improper tools (pliers instead of hex wrenches, for example). Anyone know if these can be tapped or some such? I know aluminum is tricky to work with, but I shudder to think of the cost for a new head.

This is the best way in aluminum.

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Good Luck!

Duane

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post #3 of 7 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 7:16 pm
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Heli Coil

I did the same thing and had to go to Napa; bought the tap and coil and it went in just fine. Make sure you start the tap in straight.....

Tim Hustead
Sea Marshal, U.S. Coast Guard
Sector Seattle
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post #4 of 7 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 7:33 pm
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Also don't forget to break the tab off after you install the Heli-Coil. Great product, used them for years when I worked for GM to repair stripped bolt holes in alum. transmission cases.

Pat Rourke
White Lake,MI.
2002 K1200 LTC, Champange

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post #5 of 7 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 9:50 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! I appreciate the help.

'08 Goldwing Comfort/GPS
'03 Silver LT
'93 Harley FLHTC
'66 Triumph Bonneville
'59 Excelsior
'60 Cushman Super Eagle (for my paper route)
Reg Gosnell
Cypress, TX
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post #6 of 7 Old Feb 10th, 2008, 10:20 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patroa1
Also don't forget to break the tab off after you install the Heli-Coil. Great product, used them for years when I worked for GM to repair stripped bolt holes in alum. transmission cases.

Hey, sounds like you and I might be in the same business. Heli-Coils are lifesavers for pan bolts and valve body bolts!!.......

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post #7 of 7 Old Feb 10th, 2008, 11:22 am
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You can also use a product called Keen serts. They are similar to helicoil but have a thicker wall. Used heli coils and keen serts, both are great life savers.
In your case helicoils are a better bet, just another option.


Zeke

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