Final Drive Observation - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 19 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 9:49 am Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Final Drive Observation

My LT has a production date of 02-02. While performing a tear down for a clutch replacement inspection of the final drive noted my bike has the 19 ball bearing. I thought the 02 model year bikes had the 17 roller ball bearing. My bike has 74,000 on the odometer. The 19 ball bearing has not failed yet. I plan on installing a 05 final drive I have as a extra with only 18 PDI miles on it. The FD came off a new bike that was converted to a trike.
When did BMW supposedly change to the 17 ball bearing ?
Pete
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post #2 of 19 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 4:19 pm
 
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IIRC, it was approx. in June or July of 2002. My bike was built right at the end of May. I'm just gonna ride it until she pops. Although, there is another thread that mentions that Bob's BMW will replace the bearing for $135. I just might have to look into that.
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post #3 of 19 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 4:27 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murray
My LT has a production date of 02-02. While performing a tear down for a clutch replacement inspection of the final drive noted my bike has the 19 ball bearing. I thought the 02 model year bikes had the 17 roller ball bearing. My bike has 74,000 on the odometer. The 19 ball bearing has not failed yet. I plan on installing a 05 final drive I have as a extra with only 18 PDI miles on it. The FD came off a new bike that was converted to a trike.
When did BMW supposedly change to the 17 ball bearing ?
Pete
In short, we don't know. We suspect in late '02 or early '03, but your 02/02 build date is quite a bit before what we've guessed to be the "most likely" time. My '02 also came with a 19 ball unit. Moreover, in 9/02 (well into the '03 production year beginning 6/02), when my first bearing went out on the way to CCR in Santa Fe, it was replaced with a complete new final drive which also had (I learned after the 2nd failure) a 19 ball unit, suggesting the 17 ball unit was not yet out there.

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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post #4 of 19 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 5:06 pm
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17 ball final drives from the factory?

There was a msg thread a while back from one of our Euro friends which stated that there was no 17 ball part number in the Euro parts system. This lead to speculation that it was BMW North America that introduced the 17 ball crown wheel bearing. It was reported that the part number for the 17 ball bearing did not exist in the Euro parts system at all. This led to further speculation that BMW never changed to a 17 ball in the production lines. I don't remember any further discussion on this topic.

Has anyone ever opened a "new" final drive and found a 17 ball crown wheel bearing in there? Are we just assuming that the production line started installing 17 ball crown wheel bearing around the time that the bearing became available in the US parts system?

Anyone else remember that thread?
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post #5 of 19 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 6:40 pm
 
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My 2000 K1200LT original final drive is still going still going strong at 128,000 miles (mostly in Texas and alot of sport bike type riding) on synthetic severe gear 75W90 oil with 36,000 mile oil change intervals. Is this a record yet?
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post #6 of 19 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 7:00 pm
 
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Smile rear Drive Bearing

Tim, you're not even close. Mine went at 182k, I caught it in mid-blooey so I only needed a bearing and seal.
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post #7 of 19 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 7:30 pm Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Those are some very impressive numbers. Perhaps my FD could have plenty of life left. Although my rear universal joint had some rotational play. Thank to all for the feedback. I am contemplating checking my 05 FD to see what bearing lurks inside.
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post #8 of 19 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 8:36 pm
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Murray: I think there are differences in the 2005 final drive case, vs 2002-2004. I'm not an expert on this, I'm just remembering other conversations in this forum. Check it out closely before ripping out the old one.

Don Ferrario
2004 K1200LT
2002 ST1100A

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post #9 of 19 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 8:43 pm
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For what its worth

My 2002 K1200LTE has a build date of 01/02.
My final drive failed at 14,000 miles and yes it had the 19 ball, bearing


Hans
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post #10 of 19 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 9:14 pm
 
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HarvRead,

Care to share any maintenance tips such as which final drive oil you used, change interval, how you caught it mid-blooey, model year, etc? I probably won't surpass your mileage for another year and a half. Good to know I might be able to expect 200,000 miles. How many miles on your bike now? Any major repairs?
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post #11 of 19 Old Dec 9th, 2005, 7:43 pm
 
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Final Drive

Tim, I used BMW Synth. 75-140w from 12,000 miles. Very little two-up riding, and I think I'm sort of easy on equipment. The bike is a very early '99. Failure: Sounded and felt like a wheel bearing going bad in the FRONT, which it was. That may have masked a similar sensation in the back, got the front wheel bearings replaced and... What the Hell? I still feel it! Then one morning it started really screaming, five miles from the house. Drove home on the shoulder at 25 mph. The seal was still intact, when we got it apart at the dealer's in addition to the distroyed retainer others have noted, one roller was actualy turned sideways (!) hence the screaming noise. My bike now has 197k and still runs well. It's just starting to use a little oil (one qt/6k vs. none at 100k). Opinion: If I were to buy a low-mileage early K12LT I would have the bearing replaced as PM, it can be done without pulling the rear drive off for about $125-$150 and peace of mind would be worth it.
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post #12 of 19 Old Dec 9th, 2005, 9:26 pm
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I always figured the rear drive had to be taken off the bike to remove and install the 17 ballbearing. Can it be done right, with the rear drive on the bike?

Jim Campbell
Grand Forks, ND
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post #13 of 19 Old Dec 9th, 2005, 10:27 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarvRead
The seal was still intact, when we got it apart at the dealer's in addition to the distroyed retainer others have noted, one roller was actualy turned sideways (!) hence the screaming noise. My bike now has 197k and still runs well.
Roller was turned sideways??? In a ball bearing??? I don't understand.
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post #14 of 19 Old Dec 9th, 2005, 10:34 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarvRead
Opinion: If I were to buy a low-mileage early K12LT I would have the bearing replaced as PM, it can be done without pulling the rear drive off for about $125-$150 and peace of mind would be worth it.
Aren't you supposed to use the guage and re-shim the preload with the pinion out of the way; then re-shim the pinion? Maybe that's not necesssary except for fanatics or if you replace the roller bearing at the other end too?

Normally the big ball bearing goes, not the roller bearing preloaded opposing it, though sometimes both are damaged.
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post #15 of 19 Old Dec 9th, 2005, 11:46 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb0lxx
I always figured the rear drive had to be taken off the bike to remove and install the 17 ballbearing. Can it be done right, with the rear drive on the bike?

Jim Campbell
Grand Forks, ND
Yes -- basically, unbolt the perimeter bolts holding the large final drive cover, and pull the crown gear/carrier/bearing assembly out of the housing. See Repair Manual pages 33.14-33.15 for illustrations/instructions. Once out of the housing, the bearing can be renewed on the bench.

If you are simply replacing the large bearing, you likely won't have to reshim the drive.

There are two shims of concern:

One between the crown gear and the small tapered roller bearing -- this shim controls depth of pinion engagement. If the tapered roller bearing and the gears are not to be replaced, then there's no need to check or replace this first shim.

The other shim is between the large ball bearing and the housing cover -- this shim controls how much the tapered roller bearing is pre-loaded. If the replacement large ball bearing is the same thickness as the original, the shim can be reused. Otherwise, you need to determine new shim thickness using the shop procedure, or by comparing the old and new bearings and adjusting the shim thickness accordingly.

HTH,

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA

Last edited by mneblett; Dec 10th, 2005 at 1:19 am.
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post #16 of 19 Old Dec 10th, 2005, 2:00 pm
 
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Rear Drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclecamper
Roller was turned sideways??? In a ball bearing??? I don't understand.
It's not a ball bearing. It's a roller bearing.
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post #17 of 19 Old Dec 10th, 2005, 5:59 pm
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Based on the pics in this thread from the old site, plus the BMW parts listing, the large bearing is a grooved ball bearing, while the smaller bearing is a tapered roller bearing. Are you saying that your smaller bearing came apart as well?

Ken
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'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #18 of 19 Old Dec 10th, 2005, 7:06 pm
 
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Unhappy Final Drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
Based on the pics in this thread from the old site, plus the BMW parts listing, the large bearing is a grooved ball bearing, while the smaller bearing is a tapered roller bearing. Are you saying that your smaller bearing came apart as well?
No. More likely I'm full of C**p. I looked at the bearing at the dealers, laying in a pile of parts and THOUGHT I saw a roller bearing with one roller turned sideways. Sheesh! Don't get old.
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post #19 of 19 Old Dec 10th, 2005, 7:12 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarvRead
No. More likely I'm full of C**p. I looked at the bearing at the dealers, laying in a pile of parts and THOUGHT I saw a roller bearing with one roller turned sideways. Sheesh! Don't get old.
No problem, Harv. It was probably a bit of the ball retainer bent out of shape. Just trying to keep the info accurate so that these threads remain useful in future searches.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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