How do I lower my shifter? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 8 Old Feb 8th, 2008, 5:54 pm Thread Starter
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How do I lower my shifter?

Hi all,

Got the Suburban Machinary lowering kit for my pegs. Needed to add the Iliium brake pedal to lower it to taste. Let me interject, I LOVE the brake pedal. It's well made and easy to install, although I had to use emory cloth to enlarge the mounting hole before it would slide on. Took 5 minutes extra.

Now I want to lower the shifter. I also got the Ilium shift extension. WAY worth it - but still not low enough for me.

Ordered the Phil Johnston kit so's I could fix it all at the same time. Here's the problem.

The HOW lists two part numbers for the linkage rod:

Shift Linkage Selector Rod - Short 23 41 2 332 281 - $16.10
Shift Linkage Selector Rod - Long 23 41 2 332 282 - $17.69

At a BMW dealer the other day, I gave him the part number for the long one and he looked it up and said that was the stock one.

So the question is, which one lowers the shifter? I can't imagine the short one does, but then, everything in BMW land seems to do the opposite of what it should do.

TIA

mike p
2005 BMW K1200LT (got it in July 2007)
2002 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-12R (parked next to the LT)
1982 Suzuki GS-750EZ (paid $500
for it in 1985, sold it for $450 in 2000)
1978 Honda CB-500F (sold in 1980)
1976 Honda CB-400F (drowned to
death in the blizzard of 1978 in Boston)
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post #2 of 8 Old Feb 8th, 2008, 7:15 pm
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There are two rods in the linkage one long, foot to bellcrank, one short, bellcrank to transmission input. The Phil John part you have replaces the long rod and the only way to lower the foot pedal is to make that one as long as you can and still have enough strength in the threads. There is a limit to how far you can go and still shift properly. To get familiar with the linkage see this article: Linkage Article

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #3 of 8 Old Feb 8th, 2008, 7:55 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks!

Excellent article.

Does this mean the shifter can't be lowered any more what the stock linkage allows you to lower it?

No after-market linkage rod or some-such?

Thanks.

mike p
2005 BMW K1200LT (got it in July 2007)
2002 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-12R (parked next to the LT)
1982 Suzuki GS-750EZ (paid $500
for it in 1985, sold it for $450 in 2000)
1978 Honda CB-500F (sold in 1980)
1976 Honda CB-400F (drowned to
death in the blizzard of 1978 in Boston)
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post #4 of 8 Old Feb 8th, 2008, 8:10 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbiker
Excellent article.

Does this mean the shifter can't be lowered any more what the stock linkage allows you to lower it?

No after-market linkage rod or some-such?

Thanks.
Mike - I made a quick run thru the HoW forum pages and came up with this post that reads like somethang might interest you. Not sure it applies to what you wanna do, butt take a look.
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post #5 of 8 Old Feb 8th, 2008, 8:26 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick
Mike - I made a quick run thru the HoW forum pages and came up with this post that reads like somethang might interest you. Not sure it applies to what you wanna do, butt take a look.
That helps. Thanks. I'll keep searching - but apparently, there's no specific way to lower the shifter below what the stock runout is. Is that correct (I hope not)?

mike p
2005 BMW K1200LT (got it in July 2007)
2002 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-12R (parked next to the LT)
1982 Suzuki GS-750EZ (paid $500
for it in 1985, sold it for $450 in 2000)
1978 Honda CB-500F (sold in 1980)
1976 Honda CB-400F (drowned to
death in the blizzard of 1978 in Boston)
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post #6 of 8 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 8:28 am
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I don't know if a longer threaded rod would be usable or not, haven't tried it. Another option is to remove the arm and take it to a machine shop. They can either bend or cut and re-weld to your specifications. There is just not a lot of after market stuff like this available as there are just not the numbers sold like Honda and Harley.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #7 of 8 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 8:42 am
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Wink

Mike, I think you will be able to get plenty of adjustment out of the factory long rod. If not, just take the existing rod to your local hardware and find some strong threaded rod that will thread into the existing rod ends and make just a bit longer. If you go this route just be sure to do a complete dry run through all gears prior to re-assembling everything to check for clearance!

FYI, I have the Suburban peg extenders on my LT and was able to get plenty of adjustment with the factory length rod. In fact, I adjusted it down so much that I have to dip my toe a little more than usual if I happen to wear some work style boots with a thick toe! Wherever you adjust it to you will adapt to it in my opinion anyway.

HTH,

John

John & Marilyn Fisher
'00 K1200LTC "Katie"
'95 Triumph "Tigger"
'12 Triumph 800XC "Tigger II" (RIP)
'12 Triumph 1200 Explorer "Shadow Tigger"
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post #8 of 8 Old Feb 9th, 2008, 10:53 am
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Just put the Suburban on last night so I am very interested how this turns out.

Just sitting on it I love the position and could probably adapt to the brake no issue, but the shifter is going to be an issue I think. It appeared that way with my riding boots on at this point.

Looking for the answer also.

Lee
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