Main seal musts - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 8 Old Feb 3rd, 2008, 11:02 am Thread Starter
BDC
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Main seal musts

Hi all

I've finally got around to tackling my main seal leak and I need some guidance.

I know many of you have replaced clutches or main seals and I am hoping to share your practical experience.

I've removed the final drive and loosened the threaded rings on the swing arm (so far so good)

So I've now got my thoughts on removal of the transmission and clutch so I can access the seal.

When I look at the manual it suggests removal of the fuel tank (amongst other things).


I don't want to do any unnecessary work so my question is this.....what tasks are absolutely necessary to allow removal of the transmission and access to the main seal. A straightforward list would be very helpful.

Thanks

Chris
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post #2 of 8 Old Feb 4th, 2008, 7:06 am Thread Starter
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OK

I've been overwhelmed by the response

Perhaps I wasn't clear or expected too much. Or perhaps it's because I'm English and I tuck my shirt in my underpants. I even thought I may have farted.

Anyway enough of my paranoid insecurities. I'll try again and be more specific this time.

I know I will need to raise the frame to gain clearance to remove the transmission. Do I need to remove the tank to raise the frame?

Do I need to tilt the engine as well or is frame raising enough?

If I need to tilt the engine do I need to remove the fuel rail and unhook the radiators?

Any hints or tips or links to useful threads gratefully received.

Chris
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post #3 of 8 Old Feb 4th, 2008, 7:42 am
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Fuel tank

Chris

The tank does have to be removed. As you drop the engine or lift the frame bits that have been mounted on the engine with the engine in place will not 'twist' through the hole. Radiator fans and cowlings and throttle bodies being the worst culprits. You can lift the whole injector/throttle body of the inlet manifold and let it rest there. I cannot remember how far forward the starter and alternator cables are and if the tank covers them. With practise you can probably take a few shortcuts but you need ot do the big jobs mentioned in the manual.

Good luck - I am still trying to get the enthusiasim together to finish mine ;-/

Graham Wintersgill
On the bonnnie bonnie banks of Loch Lomond

2001 K1200LT

1995 K75RT now deceased
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post #4 of 8 Old Feb 4th, 2008, 8:08 am
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BDC
I agree with Graham, (who also gave me good advice), tank off + radiators & cowls, i never moved the fuel rail, but i did take off the air filter box (it is called the air silencer if i remember correctly), the jubilee clips on the airbox are a nuiscance, but take your time & you will get at them.
Every one says move the fuel rail, i just kept a paranoid eye on them, if i did it again, i would opt to remove/loosen them for more room to play with.
Remove the starter & alternator wires as soon as you can, & remember to mark them.
When you jack up the frame, (assuming that like me you are working on the floor), you will need to give it a push to get the gearbox/engine unit to pass the r/hand side frame member (the large aluminium silver coloured thing that everything bolts to), there is a belly on the inside of this member, the engine/gearbox needs a bit of a hand to get past, when you put it back together, you will probably need to take about 5mm off the inside to allow gearbox to pass the belly, otherwise you will fight to align it for installation of the rear through bolt (hanger/mounting), if you trawl this site D Shealy gives a good write up about this item.
Take your time & double check all the time, its relatively straightforward, but its a swine, when you finish it you will understand why it is expensive at the dealers.
Good luck
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Stevie
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post #5 of 8 Old Feb 4th, 2008, 8:12 am
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Just a note for our fellow riders in other countries, only PDC tucks his shirt in his underpants & Farts, the rest of us are civilised & cultured-Honest.
Regards
Stevie
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post #6 of 8 Old Feb 4th, 2008, 9:52 am
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You're in a rarified atmosphere Chris, maybe like a .5%er. But you've got the other 99.5 % cheering for you. I haven't done any project where I've had to raise "only the frame", so I can't help you, but I have the Clymer manual as well as the BMW CD manual and can say that the Clymer is pretty thorough for maintenance procedures. That plus the expertise of this forum has been of huge assistance.

Rotsa ruck. Keep us posted.

Rodney

2000 Canyon Red LT [I]
2005 Sportster XLCH 1200C
2006 Mongoose XR250
Make sure your Life Assurance is prayed up. Don't leave home without it.
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post #7 of 8 Old Feb 5th, 2008, 7:04 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDC
OK.
I know I will need to raise the frame to gain clearance to remove the transmission. Do I need to remove the tank to raise the frame?

Do I need to tilt the engine as well or is frame raising enough?

If I need to tilt the engine do I need to remove the fuel rail and unhook the radiators?

Any hints or tips or links to useful threads gratefully received.
Chris
I will touch on the items you question .

DO- Remove fuel tank, Air box. The throttle bodies and fuel rail stay in place.

DO- Unhook Radiators, If not the motor can loosen the radiator assembly tabs when tilted.

In order to remove the trans you have two choices either raise the frame with the engine blocked. Or stabilize the frame and put a jack under the motor to control lowering the engine.
The more you lower the engine the better. The limiting factor when lowering the engine is the Coil, let this be your guide.
As you lower the engine it makes it very easy to access the elec cables.

Next Question ?

Pete Murray
IBA # 359 and
2014 RT
1973 R75/5
2002 LT 171 K Gone
2008 FJR 36 K Gone
Stroudsburg, PA
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post #8 of 8 Old Feb 5th, 2008, 8:13 am Thread Starter
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Thanks guys.

Very useful comments.

Chris
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