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post #1 of 17 Old Jan 31st, 2008, 8:11 pm Thread Starter
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Starter Engagement

Lately the starter on my '04 LT won't engage at first push of the starter button. There isn't any grinding or anything like that, just a "whiz" sound and that's it. Second push on the button will get it to engage normally and the engine starts right up. This is obviously a sign of not-so-good things to come. The repair/replacement of this a do-it-yourself thing or the dealer the best choice for this?
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post #2 of 17 Old Jan 31st, 2008, 8:16 pm Thread Starter
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I just answered my own question thanks to some great informative posts strating in January of last year. I guess it's CD-2 time. Thanks.
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post #3 of 17 Old Jan 31st, 2008, 9:32 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NascaLT
I just answered my own question thanks to some great informative posts strating in January of last year. I guess it's CD-2 time. Thanks.
I answered your PM before I saw this post. Yes, get the CD-2 in it as soon as possible. I did not have the problem more than a few days before the sprag clutch stopped engagine entirely. Worst repair job I ever had on the LT. Requires complete removal of the engine, and pulling the intermediate case off the back of it.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #4 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 5:31 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
I answered your PM before I saw this post. Yes, get the CD-2 in it as soon as possible. I did not have the problem more than a few days before the sprag clutch stopped engagine entirely. Worst repair job I ever had on the LT. Requires complete removal of the engine, and pulling the intermediate case off the back of it.
I think me and dshealey are the only 2 people who have done this job. My sprag would engage intermittently. The CD-2 helps but sooner or later the job will have to be done.
Engine removal is not required, your choice on that one.
Park on a hill .

Pete Murray
IBA # 359 and
2014 RT
1973 R75/5
2002 LT 171 K Gone
2008 FJR 36 K Gone
Stroudsburg, PA
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post #5 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 6:07 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murray
I think me and dshealey are the only 2 people who have done this job. My sprag would engage intermittently. The CD-2 helps but sooner or later the job will have to be done.
Engine removal is not required, your choice on that one.
Park on a hill .
You may be the only two 1200 LT's but I have read of several others with the K100 and K1100's. From those reports the job isn't much easier on them either.

Could either you or Dave tell what caused the failure? I.e. sludge build up, worn parts, etc.. Inquiring mind(s) would like to know.

Thanks

Roy

Roy Gregersen

Ride Slow, Ride Fast, Always Ride Safe
85 K100RT sold
02 LTC DOA 9/21/14
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post #6 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 6:10 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murray
I think me and dshealey are the only 2 people who have done this job. My sprag would engage intermittently. The CD-2 helps but sooner or later the job will have to be done.
Engine removal is not required, your choice on that one.
Park on a hill .
Did you do it without removing the engine? I assume you can tilt the rear of the engine down far enough to remove the intermediate case. By that time though it is not all that much more work to get the engine out, and it sure is easier to do that sprag clutch with the engine sitting in front of you and level.

I can see how it could be done, but I would probably go ahead with the engine removal. Not sure I would want to do it with the rear of the engine tilted down that far below horizontal. Hope I never have to do that job again to find out though.

I have no idea how long CD-2 will keep the sprags from getting gunked up again, but if used every 24K, as I would do now if I ever got another LT, it just may keep it working for a LONG time. There was absolutely NO wear in the sprag unit, just engine varnish sticking them in the cage enough so that the little springs would not engage them on the shaft.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
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post #7 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 7:02 am
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What is CD-2??

Chris
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post #8 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 7:06 am
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I also think engine varnish or dirty oil is the culprit. I was having this problem around the 100,000 mile mark on my K1200LT. I was nearing the end of my 12,000 mile Amsoil oil change when it happened to me. On dshealy's advice, I tried the CD2. That worked for about 500 miles when it happened again. I decided to change the oil and filter and the sprag clutch worked fine until around the next 12,000 miles. I changed the oil and filter again and it worked till the next 12,000 miles. That worked for me until I sold it at 137,000 miles.

I think the trick is to use a high quality oil that will not break down and varnish the sprag clutch. If you notice your oil level sight glass is getting dirty, I think that is a clue you need to change your oil more often or upgrade to a better oil.
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post #9 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 7:41 am
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As per PDCs question, what is CD-2, i have never heard of it in the UK.
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post #10 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 7:48 am
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Per google search for "cd-2", first hit: http://www.autobarn.net/ch4111-12.html
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post #11 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 7:50 am
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CD-2 is an oil treatment engine cleaner additive.

"CD-2 Oil Detergent frees sticky lifters, valves, and rings to quiet noisy engines. Dissolves sludge, carbon, and gum to extend engine life. Cleans all internal engine parts for more pep and power. Protects critical engine parts during high speed or stop and go driving."
http://www.autobarn.net/ch4111-12.html .
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post #12 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 8:07 am
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Do you add the CD-2 with the next oil change or add the CD-2 for X miles before changing oil?

TIA

Ramon
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post #13 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 8:28 am
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sprag clutch

On my rat bike, the sprag sticks every now and then. The rat bike does not have any lower plastic, so all I have to do is take a hammer and give the case a few good raps in front of the right foot peg.

1999 K1200LT Rat Bike Sold
2000 K1200LT Black Bike SOLD
2003 K1200RS Alpine White and Blue SOLD
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post #14 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 8:36 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaFlake
Do you add the CD-2 with the next oil change or add the CD-2 for X miles before changing oil?

TIA

Ramon
I no longer have the bottle, but it may say to use before you change the oil. I don't like to dilute my oil with additives. Plus with the cleaning it is doing I think it is a good idea to get it out after a few hundred miles.

jwacre - I'll try the "Rat Bike Rap" if I run into this problem again. I imagine you strike the engine case just in front and above the right foot peg assembly? Do you prefer a rubber mallet or steel hammer? Strike hard enough to drive a nail, or just hard enough to get its attention?
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post #15 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 9:04 am
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Plastic would be best even though I use a steel hammer. Remember it's aluminum, start with light taps, then try the starter button, no luck then hit it a little harder. You can also try hitting it with the button pressed.

1999 K1200LT Rat Bike Sold
2000 K1200LT Black Bike SOLD
2003 K1200RS Alpine White and Blue SOLD
2002 R1150GS sold
2008 "smart"
2001 K1200LT current project, AKA M1.2, AKA Horten 229
2002 F650GS It's runnin y'all
2005 K1200S
2012 R1200GS Rally
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post #16 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 12:32 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
Did you do it without removing the engine? I assume you can tilt the rear of the engine down far enough to remove the intermediate case. .
David the engine was in place. I just lowered the rear of the motor and removed the intermediate case. As we painfully remember now we have access to the culprit. I elected to install a new sprag , I think one could clean the old unit and be fine but I did not want to chance it.
Near disaster struck when removing the replacement sprag out of the sealed package the springs went flying. Took me 2 hours to reassemble the bearing.

Pete Murray
IBA # 359 and
2014 RT
1973 R75/5
2002 LT 171 K Gone
2008 FJR 36 K Gone
Stroudsburg, PA
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post #17 of 17 Old Feb 1st, 2008, 12:44 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaFlake
Do you add the CD-2 with the next oil change or add the CD-2 for X miles before changing oil?

TIA

Ramon
I would add the CD-2 and run a tank of gas through the bike non stop then dump the oil.

Pete Murray
IBA # 359 and
2014 RT
1973 R75/5
2002 LT 171 K Gone
2008 FJR 36 K Gone
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