A 2001 LT with ultra-low miles - worries? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 17 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 3:03 pm Thread Starter
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A 2001 LT with ultra-low miles - worries?

Folks,

Since I have some time on my hands healing my broken leg and that the insurance adjuster has totaled my LT in the past 24 hours, I've been looking for a replacement. I'm really not in a rush, heck... I can't ride for probably at least a month and maybe two... but I want to get back on the saddle (so to speak) and don't want a good opportunity to pass me by just because I currently can't test ride it.

Ok... found a 2001 K1200LT (not yet know which flavor) with less than 2100 miles. That's right, less than 2100 miles. The picture has it outside a self-storage facility.

I'm waiting for more information from the seller but I want to ask you folks about a bike with ultra-low miles and it's 7 years old and of course, no longer covered by BMW.

Jon

2011 R1200RT - not named yet

2005 K1200LT Blue - "Sapphire" - gone
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post #2 of 17 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 3:09 pm
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I would look into it. After all, your 99 wasn't covered by BMW either, and probably had more miles.
Who knows? Maybe this one was owned by a one-time HD owner who bought the BMW, rode it as much as he did his HD, and then realized there wasn't enough chrome to polish and just put it away in storage!
Get the story behind it - could be a deal if the price is right!

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post #3 of 17 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 3:54 pm
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But just go ahead and plan..

to replace every seal before you take your first ride, and factor the total cost into your offer.
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post #4 of 17 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 3:58 pm
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Man you are going to get all kinds of answers on this and all the stuff about seals and sitting and all kinds of other stuff.

Find out some info, and if it is a reasonable price, jump on it.

In my opinion after seeing all the different miles, age, year of bike, color, it is a real crap shoot on a FD, Rear Main/Slave/Clutch failure.

You are probably going to get around to a Slave weep hole any way so IF there is an issue, you would be going there anyway.

That is of course would be an opinion based on this being a great price.

You are going to need to maintenance it. That would include a Brake flush, Air/Fuel filter, all oils, coolant, and plugs. Fresh gas with some Marvel Mystery in it to lube the valve stem seals. Then you need to look for tires. That age, and not flexing in that period of time, no way would I trust them. I would then do oils again in 500 miles, and ride the SNOT out of it.

I think that year the brake flush is very easy to do at home so your cost on that is fluid. I would think you would want to do all this to become familiar with the bike, and you can do a bit at a time, as your foot allows.

We still got February and March to get through. I did ride today, flashing 16 on the Computers snow flake when I pulled out of the car port at 6:00 am.

PMS relief

If it is a REALLY good deal price wise, use the Maintenance due to age as a bartering point on price.

Make sure they understand at this point in the bikes life it is not the miles, but the lack of miles, that make initial maintenance so expensive, and be sure they understand how that relates to tires with a quote from a dealer. You NEED those no matter what. As a matter of fact ask a dealer to quote you on all those, and show the seller what it is going to cost you by BMW standards. They do not need to know you are going to do it.

Way to go man, the LT bug making you scratch already

Lee
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post #5 of 17 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 4:03 pm Thread Starter
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Talked to owner

He seems to like HD's... (wink) He's the original owner.

The windshield is "hazy/scratched". One of the black plastic tip-over guards was scratched by a tractor when stored in a garage. Some minor nicks/scratches. Does not have heated seats, but has the 6 CD changer, heated grips, etc. He thinks it's the "middle" version (ICON?) Battery replaced 2 years ago.

He put 600 some of the total 2100 miles on it last summer. So it currently has last summer's fuel in it. He has a medical condition that makes the seat very uncomfortable (reason to sell). Been covered most of the time.

He is thinking of trading it in on a RT - thinking that may have a better seating position for himself.

Jon

2011 R1200RT - not named yet

2005 K1200LT Blue - "Sapphire" - gone
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post #6 of 17 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 4:20 pm Thread Starter
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He is asking perhaps a little more than KBB

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAF
Man you are going to get all kinds of answers on this and all the stuff about seals and sitting and all kinds of other stuff.

Find out some info, and if it is a reasonable price, jump on it.

In my opinion after seeing all the different miles, age, year of bike, color, it is a real crap shoot on a FD, Rear Main/Slave/Clutch failure.

You are probably going to get around to a Slave weep hole any way so IF there is an issue, you would be going there anyway.

That is of course would be an opinion based on this being a great price.

If it was sitting and not used as a "putter" then you are going to need to maintenance it. That would include a Brake flush, Air/Fuel filter, all oils, coolant, and plugs. Fresh gas with some Marvel Mystery in it to lube the valve stem seals. Then you need to look for tires. That age, and not flexing in that period of time, no way would I trust them. I would then do oils again in 1000 miles, and ride the SNOT out of it.

I think that year the brake flush is very easy to do at home so your cost on that is fluid. I would think you would want to do all this to become familiar with the bike, and you can do a bit at a time, as your foot allows.

If it is a REALLY good deal price wise, use the Maintenance due to age as a bartering point on price.
Lee,

See... I have a H.I.D low-beam kit and a tank bag - both still in their unopened shipping boxes... and I need a LT to go with them!

Replacing all those seals... yikes! I wonder how much that would cost in parts?

If I need minimum "special BMW tools", I would consider it. I am no stranger to wrenching and I do have a garage. It would be an excellent way to learn how the bike ticks - which I do want to know if possible before a long journey (next summer).

And it needs a new windshield!

I am not sure what would be a good deal.

Jon

2011 R1200RT - not named yet

2005 K1200LT Blue - "Sapphire" - gone
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post #7 of 17 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 5:30 pm
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Parts wise it is not a big deal in cost although I guess that depends on ones perception.

Tires gonna be your biggest expense. Seriously, you can not go speed on 7 year old rubber.

On the seals yes it is a pretty big deal. I watched one go on the hook for that and much more.

I would say 2 good weekends would get it done with out dusk to dawn hours. and no burn out, I am allowing my self that for slave and both shocks, and other odds and ends. But I will putt around at night also.

There is a tool and dimensions of one to set the rear main seal 1.5 in another thread along with the procedures in another, you might want to do a file, save as, when you find the weep hole slave procedure. BMW tools I think someone said is 50.00. 30MM modified socket I have and for sure you can use.

The rest is 4 qt oil, tranny/FD 2 qt, gallon coolant, gallon distilled water to mix, fuel filter, air filter, oil filter, brake fluid, crush washers, 4 plugs, the seals, maybe metal quick disconnects, probably Moly Lube, maybe a new 19.00 radiator cap, Dieletric grease for EVERY connetion, and not sure what else. Cant be more then 3-400 bucks in parts, maybe five with fuel QD.

I know it sounds daunting, but TupperWare, then rear tire, FD, and then you get to the meat of it pretty quick.

I only have a carport so I need good weather to work, and I got a bunch to do, and drilling a slave hole is on my list. And it is on 07! I would rather drill it, and save my clutch so at least when it does happen, I can maybe limp off the road, and they wont have to go digging around in my clutch. Preemptive Strike

I would see what NADA or whoever says it's worth, see what he thinks the dealer is going to give him on a trade, and see if you want it.

Again IMHO only the maintenance items would be a must do for me to ride the bike and feel comfortable. However you said you are going to travel this summer and if it was me, I would want to drill the slave before I traveled and if I was that far, the seals would be done too.


At least the worse that could happen to you then, is your FD could fail

Thing that would piss me off is a dealer is just going to maybe change the oils, shine it up, and sell it to the next person without doing what needs done to it, to preserve it, and get it back on maintenance, and suck a poor person to death on it as they go.

BTW where are you located from me?


Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsd-tourteam
Lee,

See... I have a H.I.D low-beam kit and a tank bag - both still in their unopened shipping boxes... and I need a LT to go with them!

Replacing all those seals... yikes! I wonder how much that would cost in parts?

If I need minimum "special BMW tools", I would consider it. I am no stranger to wrenching and I do have a garage. It would be an excellent way to learn how the bike ticks - which I do want to know if possible before a long journey (next summer).

And it needs a new windshield!

I am not sure what would be a good deal.

Jon

Lee
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post #8 of 17 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 9:48 pm
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Speaking of German seals, I'm still waiting for my original 1959 Porsche rear main seal to start leaking more than a few drops per 500 miles!!!!!!! Only 150K miles on the OD. Heat cycles and miles do have something to do with seals wearing out!!! A 2001 LT, stored indoors, that ran last summer, with 2100 miles, and is dry on the bottom, should have many miles remaining in its seals.
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post #9 of 17 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 10:24 pm Thread Starter
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Does not sound too bad

I wrote back to the seller saying that if I were to consider it, that I would have to change the seals and fluids and tires and would have to factor that in the overall cost of. He probably did not like me saying that. He probably feels that I am being to anal.

I agree with the general replies that these things need to be done. I would not trust any long trip and absolutely - new tires!! I would also do the slave cyl drill job and anything else that will keep me on the road. I am willing to do it - but I want the price of the bike to be right before jumping in.

I was looking at some of the other bikes listed here and I am in no rush. Just don't want a real deal slip through. I'm planning to ride again!


Lee, I'm basically at I-476 (the Blue Route) and Hwy 3, just a few miles south of the Valley Forge exit off the turnpike.

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post #10 of 17 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 10:42 pm
 
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Jon, Just send you a pm
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post #11 of 17 Old Jan 26th, 2008, 6:09 am
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OK know where that is.

You got the right attitude. I would go out of my way to try and jump on that one, but there are plenty for sale.

You got time, and it seems patience, so just keep on looking.

I am curious what this owner thinks it is worth.

If you are dealing with an idiot that thinks 7 year old rubber is safe because it looks good, and low miles makes the bike Show Room condition, then it may not be a doable deal with him. Tell him to crack his book and look at YEARLY Maintenance, and he will see what needs to be done. Everyone looks at miles and sees low and thinks that is great, but never think to what a 7 year old coolant system, or brake system looks like. Or the amount of condensation that has accumulated in the oils that has never been heated off, the corrosion or varnish that has accrued from condensation forming on metal.

Anyway hope it, or the next one works out for you.

And DO NOT push that recovery on that foot!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsd-tourteam
I wrote back to the seller saying that if I were to consider it, that I would have to change the seals and fluids and tires and would have to factor that in the overall cost of. He probably did not like me saying that. He probably feels that I am being to anal.

I agree with the general replies that these things need to be done. I would not trust any long trip and absolutely - new tires!! I would also do the slave cyl drill job and anything else that will keep me on the road. I am willing to do it - but I want the price of the bike to be right before jumping in.

I was looking at some of the other bikes listed here and I am in no rush. Just don't want a real deal slip through. I'm planning to ride again!


Lee, I'm basically at I-476 (the Blue Route) and Hwy 3, just a few miles south of the Valley Forge exit off the turnpike.

Lee
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15 R1200 RTLC San Marino Blue Metallic (Sold)
10 Liquid Silver FJR1300 (Sold)
O7 Biarritz Blue Metallic LT (Totaled 2010)
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post #12 of 17 Old Jan 26th, 2008, 6:03 pm Thread Starter
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last repects and new prospects

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAF
You got time, and it seems patience, so just keep on looking.

Anyway hope it, or the next one works out for you.

And DO NOT push that recovery on that foot!
I'm passing on this low mile one. Think the owner didn't like what I had to say.

Was at the dealer where the old girl was towed - paying last respects and getting my stuff off it. I asked (and got!) the under the nose cone headlamp cover so I can drill that one for the wire grommet on the HID low-beam lamp and get it all prepped for the replacement. I don't know if annual inspection allows for the HID to be installed and to pass. So...

At the dealer, someone had traded in a 99 LTC and RT on a new RT. The LT looked just like mine but very nice! Had a few good farkles too. But the treatment by one of salesmen was indifferent at best. I don't know, is every BMW bike salesperson like that??? Talk about low pressure... they don't seem to really want to sell a bike. Maybe it's a used bike they don't want to sell??? He never asked if I like it, or want it, or what he could do for me. It's not like the bikes are flying out the door this time of year up here.

Anyway... have the leg up and resting. Dang - I miss riding (and being fully functional).

Jon

2011 R1200RT - not named yet

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post #13 of 17 Old Jan 26th, 2008, 8:47 pm
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So how much is the insurance buy back on the total? If the price is right, you could part out and sell it off. I would be interested in the FD.

Just a thought, and that was my one for the month.

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post #14 of 17 Old Jan 26th, 2008, 8:54 pm
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post #15 of 17 Old Jan 27th, 2008, 5:13 am
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Smart move to pass. Shake the dust off your feet and don't look back.. That's what I would do.. There are plenty of them out there... I would look at a more recent model for sure.
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post #16 of 17 Old Jan 27th, 2008, 5:40 am
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I'd consider it

If everything works and the price was right I'd buy it. Heck, I have bought bikes that were built in the 1970s and have been sitting for decades. I wouldn't worry about the seals at all as long as there are no signs of leaks.

I would take the bike for a test ride and test the ABS brakes just to see if the ABS still works ok. If they pulse and the system doesn't show any faults (do a code readout) I'd buy it.

I'd change the tires, do a 12K BMW "Inspection" which involves changiing all the fluids. I would be sure to flush the brake system really well.

Sounds like what an Airhead enthusiast would call a "Barn Queen", a low mileage, old bike in good condition.




Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsd-tourteam
He seems to like HD's... (wink) He's the original owner.

The windshield is "hazy/scratched". One of the black plastic tip-over guards was scratched by a tractor when stored in a garage. Some minor nicks/scratches. Does not have heated seats, but has the 6 CD changer, heated grips, etc. He thinks it's the "middle" version (ICON?) Battery replaced 2 years ago.

He put 600 some of the total 2100 miles on it last summer. So it currently has last summer's fuel in it. He has a medical condition that makes the seat very uncomfortable (reason to sell). Been covered most of the time.

He is thinking of trading it in on a RT - thinking that may have a better seating position for himself.

Jon
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post #17 of 17 Old Jan 27th, 2008, 7:22 am
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Personally, I would not sweat the seals. Tires, yes.

Oil seals can sit for a LONG time when not being used with little to no degradation. Different rubber compounds than that in tires, and they do not oxidize like tire rubber does. Seals go from use, not so much age. I think the seal aging issue comes from the old days when most oil seals were leather. Then it was common knowledge that old seals, even if ones sitting on the shelf for several years should not be trusted.

Buna-N, which most oil seals these days are made from, do not age like that.

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