Gear oil in slave cylinder cavity! - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 16 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 6:15 pm Thread Starter
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Gear oil in slave cylinder cavity!

I just got the slave cylinder off and there was about a half of a tee spoon of gear or transmission oil in the cylinder. What does this mean? The slave does not seem to leaking brake fluid. The oil smells like gear oil. The clutch has never slipped.

Thanks
Mickey
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post #2 of 16 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 6:20 pm
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Mickey,

1) If the clutch has not slipped, you are probably OK.

When I replaced my slave, there was tranny fluid as well.

Have you pulled the actuator rod? I had oil about 1/2" beyond it. You need to see if your rod is "wet" all the way.

You are going to need to replace all the seals in this area (tranny output seal, etc).

Keep us informed.

Joe

2005 KLT "Old Blue"

Bruno the "Bugg"


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post #3 of 16 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 7:05 pm Thread Starter
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ok, I pulled the rod and there was no oil passed the felt seal. I think I just lucked up. Can someone tell me the procedure for changing the little seal out. Also I am going to go ahead and change the transmission output seal out, do I need to drain the transmission oil for both seals.

Also I am wondering if overfilling the transmission would have caused this to happen. I did not measure, when I filled last time just waited for it to run out the fill hole.

Maybe I got lucky this time.

Mickey
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post #4 of 16 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 7:12 pm
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Maybe just what you're looking for?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CARNEYM
I just got the slave cylinder off and there was about a half of a tee spoon of gear or transmission oil in the cylinder. What does this mean? The slave does not seem to leaking brake fluid. The oil smells like gear oil. The clutch has never slipped.

Thanks
Mickey
These two threads are right up your alley.

Click

and

Click Again

Good Luck

Duane

Check the obvious first!
01 LT Champagne "The Starship"
73 Z1 Kawi
and 7 long gone
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post #5 of 16 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 7:19 pm
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Mickey,

Do your version of the "touchdown-dance" Congratulations, I had oil PAST the felt seal with no clutch problem.

You've got to get the "slave drilling procedure" by Dave Shealy: http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachme...chmentid=15501


It shows you all the seals. keep in mind there is a "SPECIFIC DISTANCE" that the tranny output seal (something like 2") need to be set.

I cheated and used a fixture designed by John Bowles that worked "flawlessly".

you'll need to search a little.

But you have "Missed the Bullet"

Joe

2005 KLT "Old Blue"

Bruno the "Bugg"


Democracy will only exist until 51% of the population believes they can live off the other 49% .
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post #6 of 16 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 8:51 pm
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OK - here's the 'gotchya'.

The refined juices of ancient, dead critters is "beyond bad" for non-metallic bits made to be in brake fluid. Like the LT's clutch slave cylinder seals.

These kinds of 'rubber' gaskets and seals have a fairly unique chemistry that works very well with brake fluid. But, that same chemistry makes them dang near self-destruct when exposed to petroleum products - such as tranny lube.

Current thought is leaning towards the idea that a common cause of an LT's slave cyl seal failure is it's exposure to transmission oil. So - yes. It's not a bad cyl seal - but a bad tranny output seal that causes intrusion of the clutch's brake fluid into the clutch and it's resultant failure.

So - if your clutch is OK - cool. Clean everything up and fix the tranny shaft seal. But, be DURN sure you've also pre-empted the inevitable slave cyl failure by cleaning *everything* and replace anything and everything non-metalic that's part of the clutch's system that may have come into contact with dead dino juice!

Then you can roll with confidence

EDIT: YES! Be sure to click on Dman's 2nd link there - the one that says "Click Again"

Tate

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post #7 of 16 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 9:08 pm
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Be sure the measure the depth of the old Input Shaft Seal (that's the proper name of the one in front of the slave cylinder) before you remove it and install the new one squarely at the same depth. It should be 1.5" deep. Do NOT drive the new one in until it seats. It will leak like crazy and ruin the clutch. (Don't ask me how I know). i have a tool to install it to the proper depth that works fantastic! (thanks john). If you want to borrow it, you may...just let me know and I'll mail it to you and you can mail it back.

If I were you, I would DEFINATELY go ahead and change the clutch slave cylinder too. If the gear oil contacted the seal on the slave, it will fail.

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
'06 Goldwing - "The Black Pearl"
Too many others to list...


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GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #8 of 16 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 9:58 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joegottberg
I cheated and used a fixture designed by John Bowles that worked "flawlessly".
Thanks Joe, but I can't accept credit for the design of this tool. Fact is, I'm not very creative at all. Duane (Dman) in South Dakota came up with the original design which I just copied and whipped one out of plastic rod. Thanks again Duane. Glad we can all help each other out.

John

2004 - LT - Anthracite
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post #9 of 16 Old Jan 24th, 2008, 5:09 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joegottberg

"...But you have "Missed the Bullet""
Joe

Did you mean, "Dodged the bullet"???

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
'06 Goldwing - "The Black Pearl"
Too many others to list...


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GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #10 of 16 Old Jan 24th, 2008, 7:50 am Thread Starter
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Thanks Jack for the offer, I may try to get one made here at work, we have a small machine shop.

So far I have got these part numbers I will need

Paper gasket 23122352156
Seals clutch line 21522332604
Slave Cylinder 21522333433

Does anyone have the part number for the felt scrubber on the slave shaft.
and the transmission output seal.

Do I need to remove the transmission oil.

Mickey
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post #11 of 16 Old Jan 24th, 2008, 8:05 am
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Hi Mickey,

I just wanted to emphasize the need to replace the Slave Cylinder since the seal on the Slave Cylinder has been contaminated with the oil from the transmission. The SC will absolutely, positively fail if it is not replaced.

Good Luck,
Kevin

1999 K1200LT, patiently waiting for a new model.
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post #12 of 16 Old Jan 24th, 2008, 8:17 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Did you mean, "Dodged the bullet"???
Missed the bullet--Dodged the bullet--as long as it went "wizzing past"

2005 KLT "Old Blue"

Bruno the "Bugg"


Democracy will only exist until 51% of the population believes they can live off the other 49% .
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post #13 of 16 Old Jan 24th, 2008, 10:09 am Thread Starter
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I think I have it all in my head as how to change the seals, not sure as how I will get them out yet. But do I need to drain my transmission oil for the slave input seal and transmission output seal change.

Thank you all so much
Mickey
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post #14 of 16 Old Jan 24th, 2008, 10:48 am
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I don't think so..

I believe the level is below the seal and the seal only gets wet when it is running.

I replaced the seals and followed the instructions, but, I don't recall draining the transmission oil. If the directions don't say to do it, don't worry.

2005 KLT "Old Blue"

Bruno the "Bugg"


Democracy will only exist until 51% of the population believes they can live off the other 49% .
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post #15 of 16 Old Jan 24th, 2008, 5:46 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CARNEYM
I think I have it all in my head as how to change the seals, not sure as how I will get them out yet. But do I need to drain my transmission oil for the slave input seal and transmission output seal change.

Thank you all so much
Mickey


The part number for the felt ring is 23211230440 It is a somewhat of a pain to put the new one in...just be patient and work it in slowly as you reinstall the clutch acutator rod. The main purpose of the felt ring is to keep the acutator rod from rattling inside the input shaft. Some models had it and some didn't. Some folks decide not to even use one. Doesn't make a lot of difference either way and it doesn't have almost any sealing properties.

You won't be required to drain the tranny oil, just make sure you top it off AFTER install, as it has been leaking and may be low (plus you WILL lose a little when you pull those seals).

To get the old seals out:

Output Shaft: Very easily removed with a typical seal puller. No problem

Input Shaft Seal (in front of Slave): A bit tougher as it is deep inside the boss and space is limited. I used a small drill bit and very carefully drilled a small hole in just the seal. Then screwed a long wood screw in that hole and yanked that sucker out! Just be careful not to "booger-up" the inside of the boss.

You can go to this site and enter your specific model number and year and you can get any part number you need:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do...ies=K76&arch=0

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
'06 Goldwing - "The Black Pearl"
Too many others to list...


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post #16 of 16 Old Jan 24th, 2008, 7:14 pm
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Thumbs up Isn't that the real reason for this Forum?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bowlesj
Thanks again Duane. Glad we can all help each other out.
Just glad for the opportunity to participate.

John, someday................. I'll buy at least the first!

Duane

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01 LT Champagne "The Starship"
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