Final drive failures - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 6:39 am Thread Starter
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Question Final drive failures

I need to hear from those of you who have actually had final drive failures. What are the sights, sounds, and sensations associated with a final drive failure. I have an 03 with 38,000 miles and I have started to notice a vibration I feel fairly certain to be coming through the drive line. Have inspected tire and rotated the rear wheel on center stand and do not detect anything yet. The vibration is of low frequency and repeating but not one you would associate with a deformity or ply separation in the tire. Planning a long trip the first of March and would like the issue resolved prior to the trip.
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post #2 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 6:52 am
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Take a deep breath.............

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post #3 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 6:54 am
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Get the beast up onto the ceneter stand.
Hold the wheel at 9am and 3pm
try to twist the wheel - push with one arm, pull with the other, back and forth
I put my ear on one of the bexes as well
There should be no movement, noise or anything other than the whole bike moving.
If anything moves other than the bike - start to worry

Now check the oil
drain it into a glass jar
if its jet black - worry

put a magnet in a plastic bag or glove into the oil, if it comes out with particles of metal - start to panic

check the drain plug - a little fuzz maybe ok - a lot of bigger bits - panic

finally, check the gator - if there is oil there - start cussing (oil isnt always there aparently, but has been for me within seconds of the drive failing, unless it is tranny oil, that needs fixing though as well, obviously)

Keeping my fingers crossed for you - let us know

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post #4 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 7:14 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c00k1e
finally, check the gator - if there is oil there - start cussing (oil isnt always there aparently, but has been for me within seconds of the drive failing, unless it is tranny oil, that needs fixing though as well, obviously)
If there is oil at the gator or "boot" it's more likely to be from a leaking pinion seal, not related to the typical FD failure. It's an easy fix and not catastrophic or worth cussing about. It usually starts slowly as a weep that collects dust and dirt and looks bad, not the sudden dumping of FD oil "seconds before failure".

Bill McAllister
St. Louis, MO.
2003 K1200LTE
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post #5 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 7:50 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McAllister
If there is oil at the gator or "boot" it's more likely to be from a leaking pinion seal, not related to the typical FD failure. It's an easy fix and not catastrophic or worth cussing about. It usually starts slowly as a weep that collects dust and dirt and looks bad, not the sudden dumping of FD oil "seconds before failure".
All I can go on is the 4 that have hapened to me.
3 with oil, one without

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post #6 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 8:22 am
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Here were my symptoms: http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthre...ht=final+drive, plus other links within the thread.
I've found, by reading other accounts of failure, that there are a few parts that can individually fail and bring the final drive to its knees. Under K1200LT topics, search "final drive". You'll find an almost endless list of threads.
HTH
Jer

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post #7 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 10:37 am
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How many miles has it been doing this? If it's more than about 20, it's likely not the final drive failing. When they go they tend to go, not linger for a few hundred miles then fail.

David Taylor
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post #8 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 11:05 am
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Rear Drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWROLLIN
I need to hear from those of you who have actually had final drive failures. What are the sights, sounds, and sensations associated with a final drive failure. I have an 03 with 38,000 miles and I have started to notice a vibration I feel fairly certain to be coming through the drive line. Have inspected tire and rotated the rear wheel on center stand and do not detect anything yet. The vibration is of low frequency and repeating but not one you would associate with a deformity or ply separation in the tire. Planning a long trip the first of March and would like the issue resolved prior to the trip.
The easiest and most effective way to check the rear drive is to have the oil analyzed. I had a 2005 LT with 41,000 miles and had no idea of any problems. I drained the oil in a jar and took it in and had it analyzed. Left it one morning and had a call the next day that I had better be doing something. It showed high iron and aluminum in it. The oil looked fine in the jar. I took it to the dealer and they opened it up and called and said the rear drive had to be replaced. Had it replaced under extended warranty. I was like you planning a long trip and it would have gone out on the road. By doing this you know if you have a problem before it ever shows up.

Jerry Mathison
Woodbine, Iowa
2008 Gold Wing
2005 Ocean Blue (Sold)
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post #9 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 1:11 pm
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Talking It might go 5 miles

I heard mine make a methodical rumble at 35 mph after turning off of an interstate and I thought it was something on the pavement, but about 5 more miles at slow speed the growling got worse and finally as I stopped the seal gave up and dripped black oil from the final drive on the rear wheel. My "03 LT only had 18,000 miles on the clock and was under warranty.

Now, I know to check the drain magnet for particles larger than just fuzz. Larger particles means you better fix it NOW!

Parts were under warranty for 2 years and after another 20,000 miles in a year I noticed large particles on the drain magnet so took it to the Dealer and they fixed it free. Oil stayed clean looking this time. I guess it would have gotten black had I not fixed it before it completely gave up. Now I have my fingers crossed to see if it'll go bad during the next 20,000 miles.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!


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post #10 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 1:14 pm
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If you have Michelin tires, and if the vibration is most heard going around corners, it is probably NOT your final drive. More likely a symptom of Michelin tires.
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post #11 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 1:53 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalLT
If you have Michelin tires, and if the vibration is most heard going around corners, it is probably NOT your final drive. More likely a symptom of Michelin tires.
There are no Michelin tires rated for the LT.

But I sure do wish there were.


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post #12 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 1:57 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonKMiller
There are no Michelin tires rated for the LT.

But I sure do wish there were.
Sorry ... Metzelers are what I meant. I always confuse the two.
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post #13 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 3:40 pm
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I was servicing mine and the oil was filled with "Glitter". I put the plug back in, removed the plug again and found "Chunks". Brought the bike in to the shop and found the race started to fail and one bearing was scored!

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post #14 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 4:29 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerrym
The easiest and most effective way to check the rear drive is to have the oil analyzed. I had a 2005 LT with 41,000 miles and had no idea of any problems. I drained the oil in a jar and took it in and had it analyzed. Left it one morning and had a call the next day that I had better be doing something. It showed high iron and aluminum in it. The oil looked fine in the jar. I took it to the dealer and they opened it up and called and said the rear drive had to be replaced. Had it replaced under extended warranty. I was like you planning a long trip and it would have gone out on the road. By doing this you know if you have a problem before it ever shows up.
Just bring the oil to the dealer in a jelly jar or something? Or do I need to find a laboratory somewhere?
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post #15 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 6:25 pm
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My 36k service was done by a reputable dealer at 34k as I had an upcoming trip. Nothing of note was observed or noticed. Bike ran much better than before.

A couple of months later the wife and I were returning from a rally (about 250 miles from here) and were approaching the street where we live. I turned the corner and noticed that it felt as though I had a low tire. Bike was stable, just some extra vibration from the rear. I thought I'd just try to limp on home and I did, only about 150 yards to go. But when I turned the corner into the drive I then noticed some instability with the vibration. I assumed the tire was totally flat. Got up the house, we got off and I looked at the rear tire. The tire was fine, but then I noticed some oil starting to drip from the rear drive. Knowing of the problem with the drive I had a very good idea of what had happened. I unpacked, took the bike into the shop, put it on the center stand and turnd the wheel. Now the oil really started coming out. The next day I got an appointment to take it into the dealer for repairs. They installed a new rear drive, of course, at my expense, and I've yet to have another problem with it. Got 8k on the new drive now and all seems fine, at least for awhile.


hth, tcars
John

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post #16 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 8:45 pm
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Oil Analyzed

Quote:
Originally Posted by used2jeep
Just bring the oil to the dealer in a jelly jar or something? Or do I need to find a laboratory somewhere?
You will have to take it to someone that has the equipment to test it. I took mind to Nebraska Machinery Co. in Omaha, NE., which is a Cat dealer that has their own laboratory or testing equipment. You will find a lot of truck service shops that can test oil or tell you where to take it. I do not understand why more people don't do this instead of worrying about their rear drive going out. It cost about 10 to 12 dollars and it is a sure check. I did mind ever 12,000 miles. On a BMW it should be done a bout every 6,000 miles.

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post #17 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 9:01 pm Thread Starter
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Red face Thanks to all

Thanks to all those who responded. None of you have described what I am experiencing so I can only assume that either I am imagining the vibration or that the final drive has found another failure mode in which to fail. Itís not the Metzler vibration which I have already experienced from the OEM Metzlers. No oil slick so far and no slop in the wheel. The bike was just in for service but checked the plug anyway and found no obvious particulate in the oil nor did I find even a trace of fuzz on the plug. So I am left in a quandary as to the origin of the vibration I am convinced is drive line related. Iíll continue to take short trips and pay very close attention for the symptoms all of you have described. Thanks again.
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post #18 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 9:33 pm
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post #19 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 10:33 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWROLLIN
Thanks to all those who responded. None of you have described what I am experiencing so I can only assume that either I am imagining the vibration or that the final drive has found another failure mode in which to fail. Itís not the Metzler vibration which I have already experienced from the OEM Metzlers. No oil slick so far and no slop in the wheel. The bike was just in for service but checked the plug anyway and found no obvious particulate in the oil nor did I find even a trace of fuzz on the plug. So I am left in a quandary as to the origin of the vibration I am convinced is drive line related. Iíll continue to take short trips and pay very close attention for the symptoms all of you have described. Thanks again.
I always rest my left hand on the final drive housing while spinning the wheel with my right hand. If you can't feel any roughness in your left hand, then it's probably not the drive.
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post #20 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 10:43 pm
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I have not had any problems to date
That being said I worry about the final drive a fair amount

G-Glove
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post #21 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 10:58 pm
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Thumbs down Happy New Year

Mine went out on a short day ride on the 1st. Some vibration 300-400 miles prior to failure. Thought it was due too cupped tire. Got hosed by the dealer to the tune of $250 for a tire that I pulled and took wheel into service dept. Then on new years day I got a whiff of gear oil as I pulled up to a stop sign in town. Without even looking down I knew it was all over for the POS final drive. I think being my first BMW it most likely will be my last.

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post #22 of 82 Old Jan 18th, 2008, 11:45 pm
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Craig - oh no - sorry to hear that

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post #23 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 1:52 am
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I have had the drive go twice on my bike. Both times there was an initiating incident after which I noticed the symptoms...I just didn't realize they were symptoms. The symptoms were a (at first) very faint catch or tick in the rear wheel revolving, definitely associated with speed, so eventually it was obvious it was the wheel and not the engine. The second time it was masked by a problem I was having with the muffler which was in the process of giving up the ghost. Slowly over about 100 miles in the first case and 500 miles in the second it got worse and worse, with intermittent stretches where it would disappear (I mean 10 miles or so), until it died the proverbial.

The initiating incident was the same in both cases, a change down from 4th to 3rd where I let the clutch out a trifle too fast and you could feel the change, it wasn't smooth, not bad, but enough to look back on and realize that was when the "catch" started.

In my two cases I believe the sequence of events was:
1. Slow wear on one/several/all balls in the race (speculation)...
2. Eventually got worn/damaged enough that an action that would normally not cause a problem at all (clunky gear change), began a sharp, irreversible decline in the condition of one/several of the weakest bearings.
3. The bearing then began to catch at some point in the revolution giving enough of a sensation that I could feel it.
4. 100-500 miles later...catastrophic failure.

For those that are thinking that I maybe induced the failures by banging about the gearbox, I really doubt it, as I tend to baby the down change on the bike, I am not a heavy user of downshift to slow the bike, I have always hated that thud of a downshift done a bit abruptly and not smoothly. When running hard, I tend to ride high in 2nd & 3rd and let the engine braking in the gear I am in help me, I wouldn't change from 3rd to 2nd for instance to slow me rapidly. I don't ride fast on straights, only in corners, so I am not changing gear a lot, just usually up one as I run out of 2nd and into 3rd as I come out of some corners.

So, to your question, a constant vibration is not my experience of the problem.The two clearest symptoms were:
1. The sensation you are feeling is a function of the absolute speed of the bike, not the engine revs i.e. the fast you are going, the more rapid the sensation, like you had a piece of metal in your tire and each revolution you could feel/hear it tick..tick...tick.
2. In a revolution it is not continuous (though if going really fast it may seem almost continuous), its a (sorry to over use it) tick...tick...tick.

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post #24 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 2:27 am
 
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Final Drive Issues/opinions

It seems to me that so many people have had issues with the final drive but, i have never experienced any problems with mine. I own a 03 BMW K12LT w/ 42k on it.I have changed my final drive fluid every 12k. How often to you service your final drives? What type of oil are you putting in the final drive?
Sounds to me that alot of these final drive problems are due to the fluid leaking for awhile staying trapped in the boot ,so its not easy to see and from this point the final drive is now running with the incorrect amount of fluid in it.
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post #25 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 5:16 am
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One failier was within 1,000 miles of a BMW rebuild - so none of the mentioned was likely.
Another was within 4k of rebuild, I was changing fluid and checking boot every week.
But I firmly believe that rebuilds are not as reliable as a new drive - at least that is what I am praying as I have just installed a brand new drive!!
I have just got hold of that strawbery milkshake oil - looks so good I could drink it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FREERIDE11
It seems to me that so many people have had issues with the final drive but, i have never experienced any problems with mine. I own a 03 BMW K12LT w/ 42k on it.I have changed my final drive fluid every 12k. How often to you service your final drives? What type of oil are you putting in the final drive?
Sounds to me that alot of these final drive problems are due to the fluid leaking for awhile staying trapped in the boot ,so its not easy to see and from this point the final drive is now running with the incorrect amount of fluid in it.

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post #26 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 6:51 am
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post #27 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 8:10 am
 
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As I can see is it the back wheel beering there is the problem. I am writing from Denmark so I hope you understand my English. If the beering failure the oil will drain from the unit and if first the oil have drained you have to stop before crashing the hole unit. I think we all have the same problem and here is the roule: Change the wheel berring each 30000 miles then you are sure that nothing happend with the final drive unit.
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post #28 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 10:57 am
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Rear Drive

From the day I picked up my 2005 LT I changed the rear drive oil at 700 miles and after that ever time I change my motor oil (3,000 miles). I used Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W/140 gear lube. At 41,000 miles the drain plug never had anything on it the oil was a little cloudy. I never had any vibration any noise nothing to give me any indication of a problem but it seems to me a lot of LT's run about 40,000 miles and the rear drive goes. I just decided to have the motor oil, transmission oil and rear drive oil analyzed and that is when I was notified that I better have the rear drive checked. Motor and transmission was fine but the rear drive shown high wear and high iron and aluminum in the oil. The dealer said they would open it up but if nothing was wrong it would be my expense but if there was a problem my extended warranty would pay for it. When the mechanic open it up there was no dought it had to be replaced. The smaller bearing was turning on the aluminum shaft. He said it probably would have went another two to three thousand miles. I had the oil analyzed again at 12,000 miles and was told the rear drive showed high wear but nothing in the oil. I was told with the high wear the rear drive showed it would shorten the life but it did not show anything wrong. Seems like some get a lot of miles out of a rear drive and some do not. If you ride a LT it is a worry if you do a lot of long distance touring, which I do. I loved my LT but I got tired of not knowing if I was going to get home from every long trip. I know of several LT's that has had the rear drive oil analyzed and all show high wear. A friend of mind had the rear drive analyzed in his Gold Wing at 40,000 miles it showed very little wear and nothing in the oil. The oil had been changed at 20,000 miles then analyzed at around 40,000 miles. Having the rear drive oil analyzed every 12,000 miles should be in the BMW 12,000 mile check. This would catch a lot of rear drive failures from being on the road.

Jerry Mathison
Woodbine, Iowa
2008 Gold Wing
2005 Ocean Blue (Sold)
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post #29 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 12:54 pm
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sorry to rant, but....

The final drive on my '99 has failed a second time (first at 42k and now at 72k) so I am a bit negative on the subject. This is ridiculous to me and don't understand why the failures are a mystery to BMW. It will probably prevent me from buying another. I bought the bike new in '00. All services performed religiously. After the first failure the final drive oil was changed with every oil change. The bike has never been ridden hard, have never downshifted, little two up riding as well. Very frustrated with this and it's keeping me from taking long rides. In comparison, I have an '84 Yamaha Venture Royale that I bought new in '86. It now has 122k and has it's original final drive. It has almost no wear. Oil is always clean when I change it. Never any engine problems whatsoever. I feel I could take this bike around the world and not the BMW. Obviously the final drive on the LT's is of a defective design, uses substandard metals, SOMETHING, but BMW does not address this. Seems like corporate suicide to me. BMW must know something about this drive that the company is not telling comsumers and this is what bothers me the most I guess. Sorry to rant here, it's just very aggrevating to me that a bike as fine as the LT is overall, that this problem with the final drive still exists.
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post #30 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 3:04 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumpy
The final drive on my '99 has failed a second time (first at 42k and now at 72k) so I am a bit negative on the subject. This is ridiculous to me and don't understand why the failures are a mystery to BMW. It will probably prevent me from buying another. I bought the bike new in '00. All services performed religiously. After the first failure the final drive oil was changed with every oil change. The bike has never been ridden hard, have never downshifted, little two up riding as well. Very frustrated with this and it's keeping me from taking long rides. In comparison, I have an '84 Yamaha Venture Royale that I bought new in '86. It now has 122k and has it's original final drive. It has almost no wear. Oil is always clean when I change it. Never any engine problems whatsoever. I feel I could take this bike around the world and not the BMW. Obviously the final drive on the LT's is of a defective design, uses substandard metals, SOMETHING, but BMW does not address this. Seems like corporate suicide to me. BMW must know something about this drive that the company is not telling comsumers and this is what bothers me the most I guess. Sorry to rant here, it's just very aggrevating to me that a bike as fine as the LT is overall, that this problem with the final drive still exists.
This is the reason I sold my LT and purchased a 2008 Gold Wing. I did love to ride the LT but now that I have the Gold Wing I like it much better than the LT. Easier to handle at low speed and much more power. Just not to have to worry about the rear drive makes it much more enjoyable to ride and maintenance is so much easier and less to do. If BMW would ever come out with a reliable touring bike I would consider another one but not the LT of today.

Jerry Mathison
Woodbine, Iowa
2008 Gold Wing
2005 Ocean Blue (Sold)
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post #31 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 5:18 pm
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Dave...call me crazy, but the final drive on an '06 should not be failing, period. BMW does know something about the failures, but they have very arrogantly ignored the problem. The bearings in these drives experience much higher than normal wear. Know this is no help, just like ranting today I guess.
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post #32 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 6:03 pm
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Survey

Ignor spelling - I am tired!

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31713

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post #33 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 6:13 pm
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Mine went at 35K and I now have 82K so far so good. Jim
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post #34 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 7:12 pm
 
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final drive

hi i recentelly had a final drive failure on my 1999 k200lt, it felt like the back end was wobbling and got worse in a short time ,it also felt like vibration up through the seat,with the oil finally going over rear wheel.
that was my experience hope it helps
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post #35 of 82 Old Jan 19th, 2008, 7:53 pm
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I started this one with the wrong title.
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=12811
Should have said lemon law. Maybe the LT's have more failures because of the added weight? Just a thought.


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post #36 of 82 Old Jan 20th, 2008, 10:26 am
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FD Oil Change

Drained the oil from my FD the other day and noticed just a small amount of black sludge in the bottom of the container. Other than that the oil looked good. I might drain it again and do a little more investigation. Or should I just take to the dealer.

2012 K1600GT - Red
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post #37 of 82 Old Jan 20th, 2008, 9:21 pm
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What type of lube is best?

What info I have taken from this thread seems to point to regular lube changes for the final drive being the best preventive route. I am curious as to which brand and what weight of lube most are using.

Hackercraft
03 LTE
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post #38 of 82 Old Jan 21st, 2008, 6:19 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hackercraft792
What info I have taken from this thread seems to point to regular lube changes for the final drive being the best preventive route. I am curious as to which brand and what weight of lube most are using.
If you really read through "all" the threads, you will see that even if you change the FD fluid once a week it does not matter. If your FD is going to fail no matter what preventative measures you take will not make a difference. The only good thing about changing the fluid is that you may see some metal chunks in the fluid. This is a sign that you FD is going to fail. The fluid that I have just started using is Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil.

Mike Trevelino
Williamsburg, VA
2008 RT
2000 LT - Totaled at 99,960 miles


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post #39 of 82 Old Jan 21st, 2008, 7:31 am
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I have just put Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil in my brand new FD

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post #40 of 82 Old Jan 22nd, 2008, 11:31 pm
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Rear drives

I just replace my whole rear drive every 35,000 to 40,000 with a newer one, that keeps me on the road...matthew
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post #41 of 82 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 4:26 am
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Quote:
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I just replace my whole rear drive every 35,000 to 40,000 with a newer one, that keeps me on the road...matthew
Now thats ganna cost!!
What do you do with the old ones?

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post #42 of 82 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 8:40 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c00k1e
Now thats ganna cost!!
What do you do with the old ones?
Less expensive than a 12K service.


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post #43 of 82 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 11:13 am
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Quote:
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I just replace my whole rear drive every 35,000 to 40,000 with a newer one, that keeps me on the road...matthew
Kinda like the Arab sheiks: When their Rolls Royce runs out of gas they just order up a new one.

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post #44 of 82 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 4:25 pm
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Final Drive Failurers ($)

I had 4 failures of the final drive on my previous 1999 K 1200 LT. I do pull a trailer most of the time and ride 2-up. The noise is unmistakable as it developes over several hundred miles, and it can happen in only about 5-6000 miles once you have had to replace 1. The more often I had to replace them the shorter the milage interval in between disasters. Sold the blankety blank bike and purchased yet another new 2007 at the end of last summer. It so far is fine but only got around 9,000 on the clock.
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post #45 of 82 Old Jan 23rd, 2008, 8:41 pm
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Quote:
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I had 4 failures of the final drive on my previous 1999 K 1200 LT.
Wow.. you might take the prize for the most FD failures.. A dubious honor..

Jack D. (Southern Connecticut)
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post #46 of 82 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 7:55 am Thread Starter
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Unhappy FD Bites the dust

Friends,
Thanks again to all those that replied. I finally saw the evidence in the way of oil streaks on the side wall of my tire as I was leaving work yesterday. I have read the forums from the first week I owned the bike and have been well aware of the high probability of the FD failure. I was always looking, listening, and feeling for the signs of the failure. I also adopted the practice of changing the FD fluid every oil change (2000mi) with a synthetic. I ride primarily one up and on occasion two up. I have a trailer which has gotten very little use. I live in NC so temperatures are moderate. Occasionally I put the sales up on the interstate but ride more often than not on two lane 55mph roads so I average in the mid 60s riding speed. With exception for an occasional need to see what sheís got, I baby the thing 99% of the time. Itís hard to believe that after a hundred years of making drive shaft motorcycles, BMW would not be able to design or a least redesign one that will hold up. I have been riding BMWs now for 24 years and have never been so disappointed in BMW than I am right now. Iím now contemplating on jumping ship but canít bring myself to even think about Honda or any of the other three. That leaves me with very few choices left and Iím not crazy about them either. I really feel like an old friend has let me down.
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post #47 of 82 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 8:25 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hackercraft792
What info I have taken from this thread seems to point to regular lube changes for the final drive being the best preventive route. I am curious as to which brand and what weight of lube most are using.
I use the Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 synthetic in the final drive and change every 24,000 miles. Worked great in my 137,000 mile 2000 K1200LT and my 25,000 mile 2006 K1200LT. No problems.

Used2Jeep asked "Just bring the oil to the dealer in a jelly jar or something? Or do I need to find a laboratory somewhere?"

One place to get your fluids analyzed by mail is http://www.oaitesting.com/ . I have sample kits available at wholesale if anyone wants one. They analyze the oil for wear metals, viscosity, acidity, contaminants, and make recomendations. I plan on having my fluids analyzed at 35,000 miles, right before my factory warranty expires, to determine if I have any problems developing and to see if I should purchase an extended warranty.
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post #48 of 82 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 10:02 am
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Exclamation I agree!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWROLLIN
Friends,
Thanks again to all those that replied. I finally saw the evidence in the way of oil streaks on the side wall of my tire as I was leaving work yesterday. I have read the forums from the first week I owned the bike and have been well aware of the high probability of the FD failure. I was always looking, listening, and feeling for the signs of the failure. I also adopted the practice of changing the FD fluid every oil change (2000mi) with a synthetic. I ride primarily one up and on occasion two up. I have a trailer which has gotten very little use. I live in NC so temperatures are moderate. Occasionally I put the sales up on the interstate but ride more often than not on two lane 55mph roads so I average in the mid 60s riding speed. With exception for an occasional need to see what sheís got, I baby the thing 99% of the time. Itís hard to believe that after a hundred years of making drive shaft motorcycles, BMW would not be able to design or a least redesign one that will hold up. I have been riding BMWs now for 24 years and have never been so disappointed in BMW than I am right now. Iím now contemplating on jumping ship but canít bring myself to even think about Honda or any of the other three. That leaves me with very few choices left and Iím not crazy about them either. I really feel like an old friend has let me down.
BMWROLLIN,

Well stated and I whole heartedly agree. There is just no excuse for a company to not fix the FD problem. At only 19,000 miles(FD Failure), I was REALLY disapointed in BMW as a Company!

At the next failure, if I have one, I will have to rethink what I'm riding!


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Bought used K1200LT number 3. This one is green/teal with 31,369(now 7/29/2018 54,143) miles and is an '02. The first 2 bikes made it to near 150,000 miles.
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Due to heart health, the Dr says not to ride under 40 degree air temp. Ugh! Now it is harder to get my 18000 miles a year in just in the summer. Guess that stopped my 20 degree rides now.
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78 years young!
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Converted HD rider.
Love this LT bike and still waiting for my first speeding ticket. LOL
Vern
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post #49 of 82 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 12:37 pm
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Had two failures. In both cases the noise and vibration started at highway speed and by the time I stoped it was very loud and you could see oil leaking out.

The last time I had changed the oil about 500 miles before and it was clean with only minimal metal on the drain plug. I have used synthetic BMW gear oil. I did get assitance from BMW in both instances.

Maybe if I had used Amsoil they would not have failed, but would BMW have helped?

Wolfgang

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post #50 of 82 Old Jan 25th, 2008, 1:21 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfgang
Had two failures. In both cases the noise and vibration started at highway speed and by the time I stoped it was very loud and you could see oil leaking out.

The last time I had changed the oil about 500 miles before and it was clean with only minimal metal on the drain plug. I have used synthetic BMW gear oil. I did get assitance from BMW in both instances.

Maybe if I had used Amsoil they would not have failed, but would BMW have helped?
If BMW proved the Amsoil failed, then Amsoil would pay for repairs. If the oil did not fail, then BMW would pay if under warranty, or if you have an extended warranty, the warranty company would pay.
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