Thank you so much for the help.
I just went out and cut a 24"x96" pc ply wood in half
I lifted the middle ramp up and and put a 24x48 the length to touch the 4x8 the jack is sitting on. I then went down and it cleared. Now I put the other 24x48 on it extender in the rear. I stood on it and put shims under it until it did not rock. I will take it to my shop teacher and we will glue shims the length, plain both exposed edges to flush, cut the top board to accept the ramp, and then I will prime, and then paint it black and call it a day. Should be close enough
The cut for the top board was what I was needing and you supplied that and I thank you.
So now another COST to this lift.
I need to be able to lock the bike upright without help.
I just cant get Oscar, my work partner to turn that crank when I am ready
So that means a Condor. I see you can get them in the 140 range for trailer version only and that is what I want.
Unless I am stupid in how to do it.
I thought of side stand into the vise, crank the vise a little, go over and pull the strap a little tighter, vise again, repeat until it is up and tight, seems tedious, and not sure it is a safe way or not?
I still love the lift and it came with ever thing, including a nice dolly to move it around, and I really cant blame it for not being able to handle an LT.
The other issue is the center stand and how it moves the entire bike back. I think I may be able to overcome that with mounting of the Condor, fold it open in the rear, go past the needed distance, raise the bike, and fold the back of the Condor in place.
If not I will use this if I need it off the center stand:
I would appreciate yours and everyones experiences and thoughts on does and don't with an LT on a lift.
Thanks for the reply.
[jdunique]One thing you want to remember when designing your extended ramp is that when you back down off the lift you need sturdy footing so be certain that you design in enough width to allow for that. I have been going off and on my lift for a couple of years now and yes it will just touch as rear wheel starts up the ramp but it does not upset the bike or cause any damage so I have chosen not to do anything about the ramp. However lengthening the ramp no more than 3-4 inches would do the trick, a simple and inexpensive method would be to use a 2"X6"X4' (pressure treated would be my choice), notch the back edge to go under the ramp 1 to 1-1/2 inches and deep enough so that the ramp would lay down in the notch and be flush, then taper the balance of the width to the leading edge leaving about 1/4" of thickness to maintain integrity. What I have described will lift the leading edge of the metal ramp just over an inch and start the rear wheel up the ramp about 4 inches sooner allowing clearance as you ascend.