Leave the nail in the tire; for the time being it acts as a plug. You can fill up with air to a decent pressure and ride to the shop if you only have a slow leak. If after filling with air you can hear the leak then forget riding. In fact you may find it easier to remove the wheel from the bike while in your garage and take the car to drive to the shop. Also your exhaust will be cooler...
To remove the rear wheel put the bike on the center stand. You will need a Torx25 screwdriver and the lug wrench that comes with the tool kit. Remove the mud flap assembly (just 2 screws) that also holds your license plate.
Then remove the 4 outer bolts and the center bolt that hold the wheel to the final drive. The wheel can then be pulled to the left and rolled off the bike. You may have to wiggle a little with the wheel at an angle to get it completely out, but that is an easy task.
Re-installation is just reversing the steps. It may be a bot of a pain to keep the shim in place when you put the wheel back in, just be patient. Torque the wheel lugs per the manual (sorry I don't have that value handy at the moment but I know it is listed somewhere on the forum as well).
Oh, and be sure to re-install the mud flap (that also holds the license plate). Last time I didn't bother with it and took the bike for a test drive... without a license plate!
Then wash your hands, pat yourself on the back for saving money (Yes the dealer or tire shop will charge for labor if they have to remove and re-install the wheel for you. Enjoy a cold beer while admiring your bike in the garage...!
Gilles & Kathy
2011 Ostra Gray RT
06 Mercedes-Benz E350 Estate (parts and people hauler)
2012 BMW X3 (parts and people hauler)
86 Porsche 911 Cabriolet (my "new" baby)
For her I climbed the highest mountain!
For her I swam across the deepest ocean! For her I walked through the largest desert!
And then she left me... She said I was never home!!!
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