'05 Rear Drive failure? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 47 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 9:15 am Thread Starter
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'05 Rear Drive failure?

The local BMW mechanic has diagnosed the vibration/noise I have been experiencing as rear drive failure. I also understand that the problem with the drive bearings had been fixed by '05.

So if it is not the rear drive, what else would make a subtle noise but distinct vibration, more prevalent on left hand corners but present on right handers as well?

They are going to replace the rear drive but my greatest fear is that the problem will still be there after the transplant.
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post #2 of 47 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 9:33 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveDragon
Are they/you certain it's not the rear tire?

Easy to test at the dealership as they can yank a rear wheel off any other LT there to test ride it.

I'm relatively sure it is not a rear tire (or front either) as the noise is metalic and decreases with time/temp warm up. I initially suspected brake rotors/calipers but everything seems fine there. Since they ordered a new drive, I'm going to let them install it (no cost to me) and then we'll see. I'll also have them run it around the block with another tire/wheel if the problem persists.
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post #3 of 47 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 9:53 am
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Hey, Russ - just curious. Have they, or you, done a rear wheel rotation check in neutral, as well as a push/pull check on the wheel --- listening for any noise at freewheel, or feeling any play? Also, have they done a rear drive fluid drain and inspected the magnet as well as the fluid residue. I would imagine they've done all of these, butt I'd wanna make sure.

And BTW, after they've changed out the drive, see if they'll tell ya the bearing's ball count from the OEM unit.

Bummers, guy - butt luckily, you've got a ride or two left in the stable!! Good luck and keep us in the loop on this thang.
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post #4 of 47 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 10:33 am Thread Starter
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Hi Dick,

haven't drained to check for stuff in the oil but did the spin and wobble test, seems ok. I honestly dont think its the rear drive but cant find another culprit. Will advise!

As for other hosses in the stable, I'm down to comuting on the KLR! Bent a rim on the FJR a few weeks back, saving up now for a new one......
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post #5 of 47 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 2:39 pm
 
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No telling what it is but I think this is the first claimed failure of as rear drive... I haven't heard of any 04,05 drive failures at my dealer.....Regards Pete
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post #6 of 47 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 3:09 pm
 
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Question

I wonder when the Japanese were looking at the virtues of the BMW Sport Touring machines why they decided to NOT copy the paralever single sided shaft drive system? Something tells me that they either decided it was a unique design with potential flaws or their own dual sided swing arm was just "more" rugged. They stole the electronic windscreen, detachable bags, accessory plugs, ABS, etc....
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post #7 of 47 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 3:17 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McRuss
So if it is not the rear drive, what else would make a subtle noise but distinct vibration, more prevalent on left hand corners but present on right handers as well?
That symptom sounds more like worn tires than rear drive. VERY common.

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post #8 of 47 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 3:20 pm
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Might also be the drive shaft or u-joints .....A bad u-joint would make a pretty good vibration that would vary with bike speed NOT engine speed and spinning the rear wheel might not reveal it...

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post #9 of 47 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 3:41 pm
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G'day Russ,
Having experienced two rear drive failures with '99 Beryl Beemer, the experience you state as being mettalic, comes an goes with temp, left hand side cornering, brings back specific memories of the 2nd failure to me.

I rode around for about 150kms humming and hahhing before getting BMW dealer to take for a ride....

The 1st failure was easier to diagnose cos off the wobbly wheel, oil over brake/drive....even I diagnosed that one...hehhehehehhe

BMW stripped drive an replaced bearings/seal. they do not replace the assembly here in Oz unless damage has occured to the crown an pinion gears....

The bearing they removed "looked" ok in so far as it was complete and didn't look burnt at all, but the mechanic seemed to pass it off as the bearing had suffered case hardening failure.....

Anyway, replacement of bearings cured the problem.

An FJR with a bent rim must go like crap???? sounds like you have similar roads there to what we have here in Sydney Oz. I spend most of my time travelling into and outta the city as though I'm doing some advanced bike riding course between the cones, at 70kph.

"Doh!"

cheers

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post #10 of 47 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 3:46 pm
 
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'05 Rear Drive failure?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodoodrum
I wonder when the Japanese were looking at the virtues of the BMW Sport Touring machines why they decided to NOT copy the paralever single sided shaft drive system? Something tells me that they either decided it was a unique design with potential flaws or their own dual sided swing arm was just "more" rugged. They stole the electronic windscreen, detachable bags, accessory plugs, ABS, etc....
i've thought about this too. it stands to reason that a single-sided swingarm will be subjected to more torsional load than a double-sided swingarm, and that this torsional load will add strain to the rear wheel bearing. i'm no engineer, let me hasten to add.

but i'm pretty sure the gold wing also has a single-sided shaft drive swingarm, and both ducati and triumph have used single-sided swingarms for years with no ill effect. of course those bikes are chain-driven and a lot lighter than LTs.
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post #11 of 47 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 4:51 pm
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Lets hope it is the rear drive, but I had to replace the drive shaft because of a bad u-joint which in return screwed up the shaft. I had a bad vibration which I posted a couple of weeks ago. It is fixed a is smooth like a baby's butt.
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post #12 of 47 Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 11:49 am Thread Starter
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I've been riding the LT again the last couple days, trying to get my head around the problem. The parts for the rearend 'fix' will be here next week but the problem doesn't feel catastrophic so I'm riding it a little.

And as I concentrate on what I'm hearing and feeling, I think it may be two separtate issues coming together to try to fool me/us. The tires are not visibly bad (9500 miles on Metz 880s) but it could be the fuzzy feeling, not quite a vibration, that comes with square tires (they don't look that square, very happy with them). The noise, on the other hand, is too loud to be the rear drive without total failure iminent. I spun the rear wheel last night slowly, listening and feeling for anything unusual. And I found a resonant vibration, sounded like it was from the rotor, in one spot. I touched the rotor as I turned the wheel and it went away, didn't come back. It was a weird noise, not unlike the resonance one gets from rubbing a damp finger around the rim of a wine glass, just much lower in freq. BUT this was not the metalic noise that I hear when things are cold and going into a left corner.

Still trying to get it figured out. Drive shaft could be a factor, will keep that in mind.

As for bending the FJR rim, that came from a city engineering dept in a suburb of Dallas, TX, who decided they needed a raised median between a left turn lane and the through lanes, no markings or lumination, dark, "WHAMMM!" The police who were right there when it happened agreed that it was a bad thing. Considered suing city but too much trouble for a few dollars.
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post #13 of 47 Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 12:00 pm
 
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my 880s rumble after 5,000 miles or so when i lean into turns. i ignore it.
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post #14 of 47 Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 12:09 pm
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Wish youda come to *$$ this morning. Edgar and I woulda ridden your LT around the parking lot after thangs had cooled off from your ride out there. Could have also run by the storage unit and swapped rear wheels/tires with Toad and see if any changes.

Hope you git a handle on it soon, Russ. Nothing ruins a ride more'n havin' sumpthin to worry 'bout!!
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post #15 of 47 Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 2:04 pm
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Albuquerque Motorcycle Police accident this morning. Dec 2, 2005
Officer put his BMW down after lockup. It was a BMW

It was on the news at noon on KOB-tv

Final Drive??
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post #16 of 47 Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 4:05 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenceer
Albuquerque Motorcycle Police accident this morning. Dec 2, 2005
Officer put his BMW down after lockup. It was a BMW

It was on the news at noon on KOB-tv

Final Drive??
If an official vehicle has a problem, wouldn't that make some other officials take note?

Lewis
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post #17 of 47 Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 4:25 pm
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A shot in the dark, but after reading your description:

I suspect permanent brake pad material (cementite) transfer to the rotor (ALWAYS invisible) causing a slight deviation in the thickness. My thinking is that this may be causing a little vibration at just the right frequency to drive you nutZ!

Sometimes just a few thousandths of an inch can cause this... Most mechanics tell you that the rotor is "warped", which is impossible.

I only say this since our rear brakes are used very lightly, highly engineered, sensitive and a prime candidate for this scenario.

The only sure fix is a new rotor AND pads, followed by proper "bedding in" of the new pads.

Scratching my bald little head....?


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post #18 of 47 Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 4:32 pm
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Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by km5bh
If an official vehicle has a problem, wouldn't that make some other officials take note?

Lewis
Yep, hopefully. Like NHTSA, which has been aware of our rear drive problems for years but will NEVER take action against the neo con corporations until someone has been killed and it can be proved beyond a doubt that it was a mechanical failure that caused it. Just like the FAA, they are known as a "tombstone agency".

I sure hope this guy is OK.


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post #19 of 47 Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 7:24 pm
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I have an '05 and after the first 3000 miles or so the rear rotor started making a metal to metal rattling noise. It seems the worst when the bike is warming up--therefore shaking a bit more and in big sweeping corners. I didn't put two and two together till I hit the breaks backing out the driveway and the noise went away. The dealer checked mine and we compared it to a couple new (fresh from the crate) LTs and they all had similar tolerances. Don't know if this relates at all to your noise, but it's something to check out. Good luck.

Tim
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post #20 of 47 Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 7:42 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonKMiller
... Most mechanics tell you that the rotor is "warped", which is impossible.

HUH?? I have seen a LOT of warped rotors on cars, no reason a motorcycle rotor cannot warp. Just a little stress in it from a manufacturing process out of control, then get a little wear, heat, and yes Virginia, there is a warp!

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post #21 of 47 Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 7:54 pm
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McRuss: Very easy to eliminate the rear tire as a source of the noise. Get a Stanley Surform tool from your local hardware store. It looks like a cheese grater, but is for wood. A small one will do, about $7.

Put the bike on the center stand. Start the engine, and put in first gear so the rear wheel turns. VERY lightly touch the surform to the spinning rear tire. Be careful not to let the leading edge of the tool touch the tire, or it will be ripped from your hands. Do NOT stand behind the bike when you are doing this, because you most likely will lose the tool out of you hands, and don't want it to go into your body.

Using this method, you can easily remove the high spots from your tires, which will eliminate the noise. Since the center of our tires wear out long before the sides, smoothing the sides is a great way to extend the noise-free life of the tire. I didn't invent this procedure, but have done it many times. Just did it recently on my LT, with 6k on 880s. Feels like new tires again. Don't remove anything from the center of the tire, or you'll be rapidly shortening its life.

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post #22 of 47 Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 8:20 pm
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Or you could just corner more.

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post #23 of 47 Old Dec 3rd, 2005, 6:19 pm
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Hi, Ron:
Quote:
Just like the FAA, they are known as a "tombstone agency".
Really? Golly and all this time I thought the FAA was in Oklahoma and the NHTSA was in DC. Goodness, doesn't all that bureaucratic rush hour traffic get in the way of the tourists? What about the road up to Boot Hill? Don't you feel just a bit antsy with all that gov'mint just down the road from Tucson?

BTW, the seat is beautiful and if I can just find that little speed nut that dropped inside the bike I can get the tupperware back on and ride test.

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post #24 of 47 Old Jan 2nd, 2006, 3:01 pm
 
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rear drive failure

Reading through the replies I didn't see anyone confirm that BMW ever replied or confirmed a fix to the problem I am still putting together a 03 with 7000 miles I picked up this summer , just need to paint and assemble plastic but would like to know if it was still a problem with 03 model and if anyone knows if factory came up with a fix. Like to know ahead of time what to expect. This is a great website for info I have found. Jim
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post #25 of 47 Old Jan 2nd, 2006, 3:17 pm
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There was a change to the final drive bearing sometime during the '03 model year. We don't know exactly when that occurred though, and BMW won't give any details. I'd say just build your bike, be aware of the potential weakness, and just ride it. If you do have a problem later on, we'll be here to help sort it out.

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post #26 of 47 Old Jan 2nd, 2006, 3:43 pm
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Ditto's on what Ken said, but I woulda said it this way "Ride it like you stole it".

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post #27 of 47 Old Jan 2nd, 2006, 4:02 pm
 
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Smile rear drive failure

Thanks guys, looking forward to the experience on LT. I buy and build occasionally for myself and sell and get another model. I like to keep 2 bikes one for main ride while I play with new toys and replace one or the other. I'm seeing whisps of info on new inline 4 that looks pretty interesting, will have to watch as it matures. I'm crawling the walls already and January just got here and little too cool to work on scooter yet. Hoping for early spring here in Green Bay. Happy trails. Jim
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post #28 of 47 Old Jan 2nd, 2006, 4:31 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McRuss
The local BMW mechanic has diagnosed the vibration/noise I have been experiencing as rear drive failure. I also understand that the problem with the drive bearings had been fixed by '05.

So if it is not the rear drive, what else would make a subtle noise but distinct vibration, more prevalent on left hand corners but present on right handers as well?

They are going to replace the rear drive but my greatest fear is that the problem will still be there after the transplant.
Hey, Russ - Happy Holidaze to you and Cathy; hope Santa treated you well, and everythang wuz safe during the New Years festivities.

One recent Friday at *$$, Dave Moore mentioned that you finally got a handle on the situation that the dealer thought wuz a rear drive failure on your '05 LT. I've got CRS as to what Dave said about the cause - wuz it the rear drive? Or the rear brake rotor? Or the tires? Dang - I wuz sure hoping it wuzn't the rear drive.

Hope you're getting some riding in during this wonderful wx in the Tejas Hill Country - FJR wheel rim fixed yet?

Take care
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post #29 of 47 Old Jan 2nd, 2006, 6:24 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodoodrum
I wonder when the Japanese were looking at the virtues of the BMW Sport Touring machines..............They stole the electronic windscreen, detachable bags, accessory plugs, ABS, etc....
What? My '04 Goldwing has none of those. Which "Japanese" motorcycle are you referring to?
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I don't know but the wing has a single side swingarm also........Regards Pete
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post #31 of 47 Old Jan 2nd, 2006, 9:10 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
HUH?? I have seen a LOT of warped rotors on cars, no reason a motorcycle rotor cannot warp. Just a little stress in it from a manufacturing process out of control, then get a little wear, heat, and yes Virginia, there is a warp!

There may be a Santa Claus, but I'll have to disagree with you David! Can't happen - impossible. An urban myth right up there with cell phones causing gasoline station fires:

http://stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml


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post #32 of 47 Old Jan 2nd, 2006, 10:33 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonKMiller
There may be a Santa Claus, but I'll have to disagree with you David! Can't happen - impossible. An urban myth right up there with cell phones causing gasoline station fires:

http://stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
Well, if you look on the Internet, you can find anything. I think that article is Urban Myth! It is bullshit at best.

I have seen quite a few warped rotors, on MY cars. Checked them with dial indicators, and had a few over the years that had distinct runout well over 0.010". Not "wobble", but absolute warpage. That certainly was NOT pad material buildup. I had one that started shaking when I put on brakes (A Mazda MPV minivan), and when I indicated it got over 0.020" warp! It was over about 60 degrees of disk rotation, so it was not inter-vane collapse.

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post #33 of 47 Old Jan 3rd, 2006, 9:51 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
Well, if you look on the Internet, you can find anything. I think that article is Urban Myth! It is bullshit at best.



I have seen quite a few warped rotors, on MY cars. Checked them with dial indicators, and had a few over the years that had distinct runout well over 0.010". Not "wobble", but absolute warpage. That certainly was NOT pad material buildup. I had one that started shaking when I put on brakes (A Mazda MPV minivan), and when I indicated it got over 0.020" warp! It was over about 60 degrees of disk rotation, so it was not inter-vane collapse.
I have a hard time thinking that Carroll Smith is full of bullshit.... he is probably one of the most experienced US race car builders that has ever lived - and he goes back a lonnnnggggg way... Indy, Daytona, you name it - he was THERE.

Cementite deposition, pure and simple. Almost as hard as diamonds and impossible to grind off. Happens immediately - especially if you try to "gently" break in new brakes. Inter-vane collapse is EXTREMELY rare and has probably NEVER happened on a street car.

David, these guys are NOT hacks! They are engineers and build some of the most advanced brakes available anywhere - and indeed currently supply several OEM high end manufacturers. Take a good look at some of the project cars they have done. Old dogs CAN learn new tricks.

The only reason I bring up this article (which I have read several times and urge you to re-read) is that I TRIED to fix a pulsation problem on my brother in law's Ford truck for him over the course of several weeks. I spent hours - and he spent a lot of dough - on resurfacing, new brake pads, calipers etc. Repacked bearings, got out the micrometer, etc. etc. Drove me NUTZ, since I have always considered myself capable of fixing just about anything mechanical... the freaking pulse kept coming back after a few hundred miles.

I finally convinced him to buy NEW OEM rotors (at GREAT expense) and to follow the recommended break in procedure in the article which is fairly detailed. It worked and does work 10,000 miles later, period. No more pulsation. No other way to explain it.

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post #34 of 47 Old Jan 4th, 2006, 12:01 am
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Well, if that was 0.010" of cementite deposition on one side of my rotors, what was the matching depression on the opposite side, cementite subtraction?

I don't care if they are God's chosen children, I had warped rotors, period.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
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post #35 of 47 Old Jan 4th, 2006, 7:53 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonKMiller
is that I TRIED to fix a pulsation problem on my brother in law's Ford truck for him over the course of several weeks.
There's your problem. For awhile there Ford put some of the crappiest rotors ever made on their trucks. Was it an F250? Seemed like you could slam on the brakes in a panic stop and they would warp. The aftermarket boys sure loved us!



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post #36 of 47 Old Jan 4th, 2006, 10:15 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
There's your problem. For awhile there Ford put some of the crappiest rotors ever made on their trucks. Was it an F250? Seemed like you could slam on the brakes in a panic stop and they would warp. The aftermarket boys sure loved us!
Yep, it was a 94 F250!


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post #37 of 47 Old Jan 4th, 2006, 10:52 am
 
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Not only would they warp in one heavy stop, but the floating caliper setup would stick on the rails during stop and go city driving, leaving the pads dragging and would excerbate the problem. To add insult to injury, the calipers had plastic parts that would then melt. I dealt with this in 81', 89' and 96' model years. My fix? I'll spell it for you - 2005 Dodge with a Cummins.
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post #38 of 47 Old Jan 4th, 2006, 4:24 pm
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I fixed my '99 F250 SD with these. Got nearly 100,000 miles on them. Replaced two sets, one under warranty at 28,000 and paid Ford for another set at 56,000. When they started to pulse again, I went looking for an alternative.

On His Ride,
Steve
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KA5MTE
'02 LTE - Red-blooded Dragonfly
'00 Unigo - Dragon's Egg
'01 LTC - Flying Purple People Eater (Ya gotta be old enough to understand)(RIP)
'00 LTC - Canyon Red Rover (RIP)

Have you
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bmwlt.com lately????



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post #39 of 47 Old Jan 4th, 2006, 9:52 pm
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Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_R
I fixed my '99 F250 SD with these. Got nearly 100,000 miles on them. Replaced two sets, one under warranty at 28,000 and paid Ford for another set at 56,000. When they started to pulse again, I went looking for an alternative.
Cool. Next time my brother in law starts whining (which will probably happen in another 5K miles) I'll tell him to go aftermarket - and also to find another mechanic besides me! 'Ya try to help a guy out....

FORD: Fix Or Repair Daily.

I love my '88 Cheby truck.


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post #40 of 47 Old Jan 5th, 2006, 3:11 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McRuss
The local BMW mechanic has diagnosed the vibration/noise I have been experiencing as rear drive failure. I also understand that the problem with the drive bearings had been fixed by '05.

So if it is not the rear drive, what else would make a subtle noise but distinct vibration, more prevalent on left hand corners but present on right handers as well?

They are going to replace the rear drive but my greatest fear is that the problem will still be there after the transplant.
Russ! Don't leave me hangin, bro. What was the outcome?

Blessings!
munson+

The Rev. John Munson
Vicar,
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post #41 of 47 Old Nov 5th, 2006, 9:12 pm
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Floating Disc Sticking??

Quote:
Originally Posted by the1mavin
I have an '05 and after the first 3000 miles or so the rear rotor started making a metal to metal rattling noise. It seems the worst when the bike is warming up--therefore shaking a bit more and in big sweeping corners. I didn't put two and two together till I hit the breaks backing out the driveway and the noise went away. The dealer checked mine and we compared it to a couple new (fresh from the crate) LTs and they all had similar tolerances. Don't know if this relates at all to your noise, but it's something to check out. Good luck.

Tim
I'm assuming the LT's have floating discs. Could this noise be the disc not"floating" properly? ie. sticking on the buttons?
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post #42 of 47 Old Nov 6th, 2006, 6:18 am
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McRuss what did you find out? My 05LT made a metallic sounding noise also when cornering to the left at slow speeds and sometimes could get it to do it cornering to the right but not nearly as bad as to the left. I felt sure that it might have been the rear brake rotor or the rear end going out. The dealer's mechanic checked it out and couldn't find nothing with the rear end. I replaced the tires and the sound was gone. I would of bet a bunch of money it was a metal on metal sound. Couldn't get it to do it all the time, no one else heard it but me. It sounded really bad. Nex

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post #43 of 47 Old Nov 6th, 2006, 2:25 pm
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Question What ??

Quote:
Originally Posted by McRuss
The local BMW mechanic has diagnosed the vibration/noise I have been experiencing as rear drive failure. I also understand that the problem with the drive bearings had been fixed by '05.

So if it is not the rear drive, what else would make a subtle noise but distinct vibration, more prevalent on left hand corners but present on right handers as well?

They are going to replace the rear drive but my greatest fear is that the problem will still be there after the transplant.
HEY RUSS,

How loud is it?? Or can you feel it?
My 2006 has 21,000 Very HARD miles!!
Wonder how many of the newer model has had problems?
Did you change your fluid with every oil change?

Keep us all posted......
Good news they are working with you and replacing it with out fully knowing that is the problem??

Jeff Goodwin
Austin, Texas

"Life is a coin.
You can spend it anyway you wish,
but you can only spend it once."



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post #44 of 47 Old Nov 7th, 2006, 1:55 pm Thread Starter
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Sheesh....

I coulda swore I posted the results here but don't see them! Here's what they found:

Rear rotor was out of spec 'tight wise'. In otherwords, it had too much float. Replacing that fixed the metalic grinding noise. Changing out the rear tire (ME330 that had squared off a tad at 12,000 miles) took care of the rest of the noise and the vibration. The metalic grinding was what had me concerned. I have 28,000 on it now, no more problems other than a leaking rear drive seal that will be fixed soon. (and a broken top box latch.......they are going to replace the top box under warranty as well.)

Just old, clutchless and clueless
Russ Locke
Lakehills, Texas
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post #45 of 47 Old May 2nd, 2007, 10:00 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McRuss
I coulda swore I posted the results here but don't see them! Here's what they found:

Rear rotor was out of spec 'tight wise'. In otherwords, it had too much float. Replacing that fixed the metalic grinding noise. Changing out the rear tire (ME330 that had squared off a tad at 12,000 miles) took care of the rest of the noise and the vibration. The metalic grinding was what had me concerned. I have 28,000 on it now, no more problems other than a leaking rear drive seal that will be fixed soon. (and a broken top box latch.......they are going to replace the top box under warranty as well.)
Thanks for posting this info. I just picked up a 2002 LT that does the exact same thing. I played with it a bit as you did and thought the noise and vibration was the tire and the rotor. Well the rotor i knew as I could drag the brakes and it would stop. The tire I wasn't so sure of after reading post after post on the rear drive failures. Glad its just the 880 causing this. Sets my mind at ease because the wife and I have a trip from Austin to Pensacola planed in a few weeks.

Randy

Really starting to have second thought on this purchase. Looked for this bike at leat 6 months and so far the radio got the static issue, shift linkage broke, and now this (glad its not the rear drive or else she'd be gone).

Thanks again.
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post #46 of 47 Old Jun 16th, 2007, 7:31 am
 
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Amazing, another THANKS for the info.....my newly purchased 02 LTC is just the same as Cherioer, radio static on occassion, having the grinding metallic noise , which I feared was/is rear failure.....

Going to ride it more to try to determine problem. My front Metz looks pretty good the rear one looks 50% or so but is slightly squared and definitely roars.

I also have the very squeeky rear brake, will change pads....
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post #47 of 47 Old Jun 17th, 2007, 8:42 am
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Oil Analysis

Quote:
Originally Posted by McRuss
The local BMW mechanic has diagnosed the vibration/noise I have been experiencing as rear drive failure. I also understand that the problem with the drive bearings had been fixed by '05.

So if it is not the rear drive, what else would make a subtle noise but distinct vibration, more prevalent on left hand corners but present on right handers as well?

They are going to replace the rear drive but my greatest fear is that the problem will still be there after the transplant.
Drain the oil in a clean glass jar and have it analysis. It will tell you right away if you have a rear drive problem.

Jerry Mathison
Woodbine, Iowa
2008 Gold Wing
2005 Ocean Blue (Sold)
BMWMOA #25294

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