Quick Disconnects - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 20 Old Nov 4th, 2007, 6:05 pm Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Quick Disconnects

Well today I decided to change my quick disconnects to the metal ones.
And to my disbelief there was a small leak in on of the existing plastic ones (A small crack in the barb right where it meets the male piece. After loosening up the clamps I took a pair of pliers to pull of the broken piece and to my astonishment the pieces shatters into little pieces. Looks like the plastic dried out and became very brittle. So now one less worry to deal with. Metal is better than plastic.

Brian Hubbard

2005 RT Dark Grey

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post #2 of 20 Old Nov 5th, 2007, 12:40 am
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I've read so many threads about this, I had mine done in the shop when the tupperware was off. I wouldn't recommend waiting to change those fittings...
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post #3 of 20 Old Nov 5th, 2007, 12:38 pm
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I know several sources have been posted in the past for these metal QD's but who's got the best price on them? Part numbers or links would be appreciated. Been smelling gasoline lately now & then and have a hunch I'll be replacing mine.


Thanks in advance,

Rick
'01 LT
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post #4 of 20 Old Nov 5th, 2007, 1:17 pm
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All Metal Quick disconnects

There have been several posts listing part numbers and sources.

Full disclosure: I own Racer Parts Wholesale.

We are one of the Forum sponsors and have been at several Rallies this fall (where we donated door prizes). We showed the all-metal QD and got a great reception.

We have shipped that Quick Disconnect to many BMW owners. Our main market for these QD's is automotive racing where we have been selling them to racers for several years.

The pieces we sell are, in my opinion, simply the best you can buy. We have never had one fail in any application (we have customers who use them on $100K engines!).

Please go to www.racerpartswholesale.com and go to the Motorcycle division. Click on Jiffy Tite fittings. It takes 2 complete fittings to do the LT. I think the cost is about $50 per complete fitting.

You can call and get the exact part numbers and have any questions answered. 800-397-7815

Also--we have many motorcycle parts available. Our latest product in stock in Helen Two Wheel products----we have everything in stock.

Tom Volk
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post #5 of 20 Old Nov 5th, 2007, 1:18 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick-L
I know several sources have been posted in the past for these metal QD's but who's got the best price on them? Part numbers or links would be appreciated. Been smelling gasoline lately now & then and have a hunch I'll be replacing mine.


Thanks in advance,
I just ordered two sets from MSCDirect. Can't remember who gave me the link to the site, butt I'm grateful. May not be the least expensive, butt easy purchase.

I got mine at http://www.mscdirect.com, the part numbers are:
2 x 88080445 $24.81 each
Description: 5/16"SHUTOFF HOSE BARB LCD CPLING BODY IN-LINE

2 x 88080486 $15.30 each
Description: 5/16"HOSE BARB SHUTOFF LCD CPLING INSERT IN-LINE

1 x 9452K19 BUNA-N O-RING, PK $2.05 (100 in the package)
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post #6 of 20 Old Nov 5th, 2007, 1:21 pm
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick-L
I know several sources have been posted in the past for these metal QD's but who's got the best price on them? Part numbers or links would be appreciated. Been smelling gasoline lately now & then and have a hunch I'll be replacing mine.


Thanks in advance,
If you have been smelling gasoline you may be in danger.!!! Do not take this lightly, a bike fire - especially while riding - can ruin your whole day. Seriously, don't wait for the best deal to replace your QDs if you smell gasoline. In fact the prudent thing to do is to find the leak before your next ride!!!

Gilles & Kathy
BMWMOA# 154719
IBA# 71594
2011 Ostra Gray RT
06 Mercedes-Benz E350 Estate (parts and people hauler)
2012 BMW X3 (parts and people hauler)
86 Porsche 911 Cabriolet (my "new" baby)



For her I climbed the highest mountain!
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post #7 of 20 Old Nov 5th, 2007, 1:29 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvolk
There have been several posts listing part numbers and sources.

Full disclosure: I own Racer Parts Wholesale.

We are one of the Forum sponsors and have been at several Rallies this fall (where we donated door prizes). We showed the all-metal QD and got a great reception.

We have shipped that Quick Disconnect to many BMW owners. Our main market for these QD's is automotive racing where we have been selling them to racers for several years.

The pieces we sell are, in my opinion, simply the best you can buy. We have never had one fail in any application (we have customers who use them on $100K engines!).

Please go to www.racerpartswholesale.com and go to the Motorcycle division. Click on Jiffy Tite fittings. It takes 2 complete fittings to do the LT. I think the cost is about $50 per complete fitting.

You can call and get the exact part numbers and have any questions answered. 800-397-7815

Also--we have many motorcycle parts available. Our latest product in stock in Helen Two Wheel products----we have everything in stock.

Tom Volk
Replaced mine Sunday. Only problem I had was getting the OEM crimped rings off. Other than that - just a little time consuming. It would help if (you) the supplier would include four good fuel line screw clamps (not the worm gear type) to properly fit the fuel line.

Lee Nowell
Black 01, LTC
BMWRA & MOA, AMA, IBA
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post #8 of 20 Old Nov 5th, 2007, 3:54 pm
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I had one fail on my GS while removing the gas tank so thankfully it happened in my garage and I replaced both connections with hose clamps. In any case it definately is worth replacing those dreaded clips ahead of them breaking. Because as the old saying goes, it is not a question of if, but when.

Regards & Ride Safe!

Bruce
'09 Black LT
4-Wheels moves the body, 2-wheels moves the soul.
IBA # 8547
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post #9 of 20 Old Nov 6th, 2007, 1:27 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnowell
Replaced mine Sunday. Only problem I had was getting the OEM crimped rings off. Other than that - just a little time consuming. It would help if (you) the supplier would include four good fuel line screw clamps (not the worm gear type) to properly fit the fuel line.
Unfortunately I don't really have a good answer for this. We have in stock Oetiker clamps however they require a specific crimping plier to properly tighten the clamp. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/oetiker.htm I know of a hose clamp that is worm driven but is designed to not gouge or deform the hose when tightened.

As ugly as worm driven clamps are, they will work OK. Tightening them until the rubber oozes out from the gear slots is not necessary anyhow.

Jack Borsos
GM Racer Parts Wholesale
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post #10 of 20 Old Nov 6th, 2007, 7:13 pm Thread Starter
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Reused Original Clamps

The original clamps can be reused if you use a small screwdriver to spread the crimp enough to slide the clamp up. The after you install the new fittings slide the clamps back down and re-crimp them using a pair of dikes (Wire Cutters).

Brian Hubbard

2005 RT Dark Grey

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post #11 of 20 Old Nov 7th, 2007, 2:01 am
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Thanks to Tom, Dick, & Zippy. I will order some as soon as it fits the budget, unfortunately it's getting colder here (snowed yesterday) and the furnace needs parts first. I won't be riding until I replace the QD's and do a couple other maintenance items. Got 'er torn apart somewhat already.

Rick
'01 LT
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post #12 of 20 Old Nov 7th, 2007, 7:04 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bghubr
The original clamps can be reused if you use a small screwdriver to spread the crimp enough to slide the clamp up. The after you install the new fittings slide the clamps back down and re-crimp them using a pair of dikes (Wire Cutters).
Why would someone even consider doing that?

Bill McAllister
St. Louis, MO.
2003 K1200LTE
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post #13 of 20 Old Nov 7th, 2007, 10:13 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick-L
Thanks to Tom, Dick, & Zippy. I will order some as soon as it fits the budget, unfortunately it's getting colder here (snowed yesterday) and the furnace needs parts first. I won't be riding until I replace the QD's and do a couple other maintenance items. Got 'er torn apart somewhat already.
If you'd like I can send you my stock QDs. They did not leak or anything, I just replaced them as a preventive measure when my 05 had 12K miles on it. They are yours just for asking, and I'll even throw in new O-rings. All you'll need to buy are 4 hose clamps, preferably from an auto parts place such as NAPA as they carry the screw type (not the worm type). Just PM me.

Gilles & Kathy
BMWMOA# 154719
IBA# 71594
2011 Ostra Gray RT
06 Mercedes-Benz E350 Estate (parts and people hauler)
2012 BMW X3 (parts and people hauler)
86 Porsche 911 Cabriolet (my "new" baby)



For her I climbed the highest mountain!
For her I swam across the deepest ocean!
For her I walked through the largest desert!
And then she left me... She said I was never home!!!


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post #14 of 20 Old Nov 7th, 2007, 10:57 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy_gg
If you have been smelling gasoline you may be in danger.!!! Do not take this lightly, a bike fire - especially while riding - can ruin your whole day. Seriously, don't wait for the best deal to replace your QDs if you smell gasoline. In fact the prudent thing to do is to find the leak before your next ride!!!
WHAT? You mean riding 75 miles to Fresno BMW with gasoline spraying all over your legs and trailer and turning into Napalm is NOT a smart thing to do??

(I can't IMAGINE anyone who would do that!)


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post #15 of 20 Old Nov 8th, 2007, 12:26 am
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Thank you for the friendly offer! I have a bunch of stock plastic ones already, bought a load-o-parts from a dealer going out of business a while back & it looks like he made a practice of replacing them. I think once inside the tup I'll hold out for the metal ones though, it's nasty riding weather here this week anyway.

Thanks again & God bless,
Rick

Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy_gg
If you'd like I can send you my stock QDs. They did not leak or anything, I just replaced them as a preventive measure when my 05 had 12K miles on it. They are yours just for asking, and I'll even throw in new O-rings. All you'll need to buy are 4 hose clamps, preferably from an auto parts place such as NAPA as they carry the screw type (not the worm type). Just PM me.

Rick
'01 LT
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post #16 of 20 Old Nov 8th, 2007, 6:28 pm
 
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Angry What should have been a nice ride to the Florida Keys

The day started at 6 am, my first ride to the Keys. I smelled gas the night before and didn't know the source. Surely it couldn't be "MY BIKE". I met the people I would be traveling with, about 45 minutes and 30 miles later. I decided that maybe the smell was coming from my bike so I took a close look and sure enough, gas was dripping down the side of the engine right by the oil fill cap. After himmin and hawin to my fellow riders, not just any riders Harley riders. I'm never going to live it down. We decided to repair it road side so I could continue with them. After dispatching them to an auto parts shop for a brass barbed coupling to replace the "PLASTIC QUICK DISCONECT" and about an hour of disassemble and reassembly we were on our way.
Some 8 hours later we arrived in Key West. Spent 3 hours there and turned around and headed home.

Now the fun began, I made it to within 1 hour of my house, and was stopping at a rest stop. When I heard this god awful clicking coming from the engine.
I reived it a bit to see if I was really hearing it. Sure enough I was I pulled into a parking spot and shut her down. That was it, no starting after that.

Had it towed at 9am this morning. Just got the report. Sheered pin on the intake cam gear, broken cam shaft and who knows how many bent valves. Tech says the cam gear design sucks he has reported it to BMW, but they say can not change the design.

I know these are a lot of words to ask a question, but has anyone had a sheered cam gear pin and a broken cam shaft? This is a 2003 k1200lt with 52,000 miles.
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post #17 of 20 Old Nov 8th, 2007, 9:37 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRIGHTPILOT
Had it towed at 9am this morning. Just got the report. Sheered pin on the intake cam gear, broken cam shaft and who knows how many bent valves. Tech says the cam gear design sucks he has reported it to BMW, but they say can not change the design.

I know these are a lot of words to ask a question, but has anyone had a sheered cam gear pin and a broken cam shaft? This is a 2003 k1200lt with 52,000 miles.
First, welcome to he board.

I don't recall hearing of a similar kind of camshaft failure. I also do not feel that it is a poor design, but I could be wrong. It is surprising that a dealer's mechanic would say 'the cam gear design sucks', that he 'reported it to BMW' and especially that he got the answer he described. That is a trifecta for that mechanic.

Randy Prade
Aurora, CO

Just ride it!
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post #18 of 20 Old Nov 8th, 2007, 10:39 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRIGHTPILOT
Had it towed at 9am this morning. Just got the report. Sheered pin on the intake cam gear, broken cam shaft and who knows how many bent valves. Tech says the cam gear design sucks he has reported it to BMW, but they say can not change the design.
Sorry to hear about your engine...
Talk to Tony (Deputy5211) as he may have a spare engine...

Gilles & Kathy
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2011 Ostra Gray RT
06 Mercedes-Benz E350 Estate (parts and people hauler)
2012 BMW X3 (parts and people hauler)
86 Porsche 911 Cabriolet (my "new" baby)



For her I climbed the highest mountain!
For her I swam across the deepest ocean!
For her I walked through the largest desert!
And then she left me... She said I was never home!!!


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post #19 of 20 Old Nov 9th, 2007, 8:11 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
First, welcome to he board.

I don't recall hearing of a similar kind of camshaft failure. I also do not feel that it is a poor design, but I could be wrong. It is surprising that a dealer's mechanic would say 'the cam gear design sucks', that he 'reported it to BMW' and especially that he got the answer he described. That is a trifecta for that mechanic.
I think we're going to start seeing more of this. It happened to Monty's bike because a nut backed off of one of the cam caps and hung in between the sprocket and chain.

The caps are torqued to 9nM. Very little effort is used to do this. I saw some of mine had backed out when we tore my old LT engine down. That's one Hank (Rhinewest) had done head work to and Hank is one of the best mechanics I know. He now uses a small spot of blue loctite when re-installing cams.

I highly recommend everyone to check their torque on the cam caps whenever they have the valve cover off.... after adding a drop of blue loctite (which doesn't taste anywhere near as good as the red).



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post #20 of 20 Old Nov 9th, 2007, 10:00 am
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Yes, a dab of blue is absolutely necessary in my book. Always done it and always will. Big end cap bolts, journal bearing bolts, you name it. Haven't had the pleasure of a single internal motor part being removed on the LT yet. But what I love, is the idea you can get to the big end of the rods without removing the motor or crawling underneath, one of the many reasons for buying this bike. Not that I expect to need to anytime soon.

John

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