2005 LT Accessory Ports & Heated Clothing - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:07 pm Thread Starter
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2005 LT Accessory Ports & Heated Clothing

I have been having some offline discussions with Gerbing's, via email, about their products. They told me today "You will need to run a battery harness for each rider. The 2005 BMW ports are not rated to handle our clothing."

Is that correct? We have these nice LTs and they can't handle heated clothing?

If it is correct, how about just the gloves, or just the socks?

Here I was, looking forward to plugging in some heated gear very soon, not having to mess with their battery harness, etc......

Howard Schisler
2015 BMW K1600GTL
2009 BMW K1200LT - 60k miles
2012 BMW F650GS (sold)
2005 BMW K1200LT - "Gray Ghost", traded at 120k miles
2005 Honda Shadow 650 (sold)
AMA, IBA, BMW MOA. CCRs: Braselton 2006, Osage Beach 2007, Duluth 2012


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post #2 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:22 pm
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Runnin' 'em myself

Howard, I have been running my set of Gerbings gear for 2 winters now. I typically ride 1-up with heated jacket liner, pants and gloves when it gets cold. I use a digital thermostat with the jacket and gloves wired on separate channels (the pants plug into the jacket). I have run all items on full power for hours at a time with no trouble whatsoever. I have the old fashioned plugs (not BMW) with an adapter to plug the thermostat into the left lower fairing accessory plug.

I don't ride 2-up in the cold so I cannot comment on the rear setup, but expect that all would be just fine.

BTW, adding the wiring harness is a piece of cake. I have one of those installed as well, either for hooking up to the Gerbings (like when I was riding with the lower fairing off last week - no accessory socket), or for connecting up a battery charger, or as another power option for my GPS.

Ray Thill
2001 K1200LT Champagne

Last edited by thillrh; Nov 29th, 2005 at 10:33 pm. Reason: additional info
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post #3 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:24 pm
 
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The lower front port has supplied the power to heat my vest for at least 3 to 4,000 miles now. Surely, they can "handle" gloves and socks.

The rear port has supplied power to my wife's heated vest for at least the same, if not more miles. No problems yet.

Please post the wattage ratings of your gloves and socks, and we'll get to the bottom of this.
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post #4 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:29 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
Please post the wattage ratings of your gloves and socks, and we'll get to the bottom of this.
per their web site, any model of Gerbing's gloves or socks take 22 watts (per pair).

Howard Schisler
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2009 BMW K1200LT - 60k miles
2012 BMW F650GS (sold)
2005 BMW K1200LT - "Gray Ghost", traded at 120k miles
2005 Honda Shadow 650 (sold)
AMA, IBA, BMW MOA. CCRs: Braselton 2006, Osage Beach 2007, Duluth 2012


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post #5 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:32 pm
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That's nothing. You are talking 2 amps. The outlet on the pre-2005 bikes had a 15 amp fuse with other items also using the same fuse (but minimal). A 15 amp fuse is good for 180 watts.



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post #6 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:33 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thillrh
Howard, I have been running my set of Gerbings gear for 2 winters now. I typically ride 1-up with heated jacket liner, pants and gloves when it gets cold. I use a digital thermostat with the jacket and gloves wired on separate channels (the pants plug into the jacket). I have run all items on full power for hours at a time with no trouble whatsoever. I have the old fashioned plugs (not BMW) with an adapter to plug the thermostat into the left lower fairing accessory plug.
That's what I would have expected. Whew!

I'll chalk this up to a less-than-fully-knowledgeable support person at Gerbing's.

Howard Schisler
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post #7 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:38 pm Thread Starter
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Update: full Gerbing info

per their web site:

Union Ridge jacket or jacket liner: 77 watts
Union Ridge pants or pants liner: 44 watts
any gloves or glove liners: 22 watts
any socks: 22 watts

total = 165 watts. Apparently you can go head-to-toe with their gear and still be OK. Not sure where the Gerbing rep's info was coming from. I'll email her back.

vest: 55 watts

Thanks!

Howard Schisler
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2009 BMW K1200LT - 60k miles
2012 BMW F650GS (sold)
2005 BMW K1200LT - "Gray Ghost", traded at 120k miles
2005 Honda Shadow 650 (sold)
AMA, IBA, BMW MOA. CCRs: Braselton 2006, Osage Beach 2007, Duluth 2012


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post #8 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:40 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hschisler
I'll chalk this up to a less-than-fully-knowledgeable support person at Gerbing's.
Can't we just call him/her a MORON and be done with it?!
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post #9 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:42 pm
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... you beat me to the punch with the wattage. I haven't tried the socks, or found it necessary for my riding style, even with hours above the snow line in the mountains.

77 watts for jacket
44 watts for pants
22 watts for gloves
==================
143 watts at full current draw

...which is about 10 amps at ~14 volts on a running bike.

If you ride 2-up, plug each setup into different accessory outlets and you should be fine.

Ray Thill
2001 K1200LT Champagne
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post #10 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:47 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hschisler
I have been having some offline discussions with Gerbing's, via email, about their products. They told me today "You will need to run a battery harness for each rider. The 2005 BMW ports are not rated to handle our clothing."

Is that correct? We have these nice LTs and they can't handle heated clothing?

If it is correct, how about just the gloves, or just the socks?

Here I was, looking forward to plugging in some heated gear very soon, not having to mess with their battery harness, etc......
The front two sockets are on a 15A circuit, and the trunk socket is on a 7.5A circuit -- that's an average of 7.5A per socket (or 15A from a single front). That's 90W (7.5Ax12V) per socket.

Gerbing's site lists 77W for jacket liner, 22W/pr for gloves, 44W for pants. They may have point. I'm willing to run my Aerostich jacket solo through the front socket, but if I had a full jacket/golves/socks/pants set up, I'd go direct connection through either a panel or portable controller.

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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post #11 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:51 pm
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Guys, Just to confirm I rode with the gerbings jacket liner, gloves, overpants and socks cranked up full on a 15 amp fuse with no problems. It was through an auxillary wiring harness, which was a snap to install and not through the BMW plug, but 15 amps is 15 amps.
I would use the outlet provided on the bike. The nice thing about the underseat wiring though is it is neater, with out any dangling wires.
Hope this helps.

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post #12 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 10:51 pm
 
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Mark, your calculation implies that one couldn't pull all 15 amps from 1 port upfront, without using the other. I'm not sure I agree with this. Obviously, caution must be exercised not to overload the circuit when using both sockets...this is true.
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post #13 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 11:05 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
Mark, your calculation implies that one couldn't pull all 15 amps from 1 port upfront, without using the other. I'm not sure I agree with this. Obviously, caution must be exercised not to overload the circuit when using both sockets...this is true.
OK, I'm technically challenged, so does this mean:

both "front" outlets: are these the 2 provided for rider and passenger?
We're saying these are 15 amps together, not 15 amps each?

If so, then I think Mark (and the gal at Gerbing) may be correct: you can't run a full "rig" of their stuff through 1 port, but you could do up to 90 watts. I may install the battery harness after all, but that would mean getting a screwdriver or something (at a minimum)...

All this talk of extra controllers, panels, etc. gives me a headache. I just want to plug stuff in and use it. I may be forced, kicking and screaming, into learning some things about my LT and doing a little wrenching!

Howard Schisler
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2009 BMW K1200LT - 60k miles
2012 BMW F650GS (sold)
2005 BMW K1200LT - "Gray Ghost", traded at 120k miles
2005 Honda Shadow 650 (sold)
AMA, IBA, BMW MOA. CCRs: Braselton 2006, Osage Beach 2007, Duluth 2012


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post #14 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 11:14 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hschisler
OK, I'm technically challenged, so does this mean:

both "front" outlets: are these the 2 provided for rider and passenger?
We're saying these are 15 amps together, not 15 amps each?

If so, then I think Mark (and the gal at Gerbing) may be correct: you can't run a full "rig" of their stuff through 1 port, but you could do up to 90 watts. I may install the battery harness after all, but that would mean getting a screwdriver or something (at a minimum)...

All this talk of extra controllers, panels, etc. gives me a headache. I just want to plug stuff in and use it. I may be forced, kicking and screaming, into learning some things about my LT and doing a little wrenching!
I was not saying/implying any particular limit on the front sockets. The front sockets are both on the same cirouit -- regardless of how many sockets have something plugged in, the max current that can flow (to wherever in the circuit) is (theoretically) 15 amps. Whether that all flows through one socket or is split to two, 15A is the max you can pull without risking the fuse blowing.

And one last thought -- even though in theory you can pull 15A through one front socket, there *are* other things on that circuit, so the theoretical max of 180W is, as a practical matter, not attainable. The 165W total above is certainly doable, but it's just too close to max for my personal preferences -- not to mention the wire gauge leading to the socket isn't exactly huge for a sustained 15A load. Guess I'm just too conservative; I'd off-load it to the battery to increase the "margin."

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA

Last edited by mneblett; Nov 29th, 2005 at 11:25 pm.
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post #15 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 11:18 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mneblett
... regardless of how many sockets have something plugged in, the max current that can flow (to wherever in the circuit) is (theoretically) 15 amps. Whether that all flows through one socket or is split to two, 15A is the max you can pull without risking the fuse blowing.
Got it. Thanks.

So... what happens on the LT if one exceeds 15 amps on this circuit? Does the heated gear just lose power, or does a wheel fall off or something?

Howard Schisler
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2009 BMW K1200LT - 60k miles
2012 BMW F650GS (sold)
2005 BMW K1200LT - "Gray Ghost", traded at 120k miles
2005 Honda Shadow 650 (sold)
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post #16 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 11:24 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hschisler
Got it. Thanks.

So... what happens on the LT if one exceeds 15 amps on this circuit? Does the heated gear just lose power, or does a wheel fall off or something?
Critical mass -- instant vaporization of the bike and the six closest vehicles

It gets cold inside your suit, and your '05's windshield stops going up or down until you replace the fuse.

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Fairfax, VA
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post #17 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 11:29 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mneblett
Critical mass -- instant vaporization of the bike and the six closest vehicles
COOL! Now, if I could choose JUST THE RIGHT MOMENT for that to happen, and leap off the bike JUST BEFORE IT HAPPENED... awesome.

But seriously, thanks for the info.
I keep learning.

Howard Schisler
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2012 BMW F650GS (sold)
2005 BMW K1200LT - "Gray Ghost", traded at 120k miles
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post #18 of 48 Old Nov 29th, 2005, 11:31 pm
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The rear one also runs the radio, map reading light, and interior light. My wife was using the widder vest on the rear plug and blew the 7.5 fuse. The vest is about 35 watts. The front plugs also are on the circuit that raises the windshield. I haven't had any trouble using the vest on the front plugs yet.
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post #19 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 7:25 am
 
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Howard:

I have all the Gerbing's heated gear but I still use the direct battery hook up. I run it out from under the seat and have it sticking out of the front of the seat. There is sits, right in front of me, an easy hookup to my jacket liner plug. No messing around bending over and trying to get it plugged into the OE socket down below. I have a direct hook up for the passenger as well. I run that connector up between the driver and passenger seat. A piece of cake as well for the passenger as well! During the summer I just store the connections under the seat out of view. Dick
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post #20 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 7:46 am
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Or if you are concerned, change the 15 amp for a 10 amp fuse, and if everything is hunky dory, change up again.
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post #21 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 8:22 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRothermel
I have all the Gerbing's heated gear but I still use the direct battery hook up. I run it out from under the seat and have it sticking out of the front of the seat...
Dick, thanks for the additional info (and thanks to all who are replying with experiences and tips).

Could you (or others) send a photo of what the Gerbing-supplied wiring harness looks like, when it's connected to the battery?

This will be my first foray under the skin of the bike. Could be interesting...

BTW: it was an unexpected pleasure to find that Gerbing's provides a wiring harness with every product they sell. They make no assumptions that you will be using their jacket or pants, for example, when you buy a pair of their socks or gloves. Nice touch.

Howard Schisler
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2009 BMW K1200LT - 60k miles
2012 BMW F650GS (sold)
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2005 Honda Shadow 650 (sold)
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post #22 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 10:23 am
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My thoughts, I used the Gerbing provided cable direct to the battery. The cable is provided with a 20amp fuse. I use the same cable for my battery tender and to charge my cell phone. Istallation took about 10 minutes, most of that time I spend looking for the nut I dropped off the negative battery post. I think it was Gerbing recommeded I use their cable because of the wire guage, but I am not sure about that.

Jim in GA
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post #23 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 1:50 pm
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"The front two sockets are on a 15A circuit, and the trunk socket is on a 7.5A circuit -- that's an average of 7.5A per socket (or 15A from a single front). That's 90W (7.5Ax12V) per socket."

Okay, now I have a concern. My wife has run her jacket (77watts) and gloves (22 watts) off the trunk socket for the past two winters (and yes, it does get cold in southern AZ).

If only rated at 90w, and other bike equipment is running off that wire, why haven't I blown the fuse yet? Or (as usual) am I missing something?

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post #24 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 2:11 pm
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If I am correct, the fuse will not blow unless it exceeds the rating by a certain percentage (10% or 15% not sure which). I think I read about this on the Powerlet site www.jastek7.com and I also believe David Shealey posted about this a long long time ago on one of the old sites (Yahoo?).



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post #25 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 2:12 pm
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post #26 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 8:03 pm
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Well it passes the smoke test...

whenever I have plugged my complete gerbing set (glove, jacket, pants, socks) into the front bike outlet and run it on high for an extended period of time.
So never minding the E=IR, watts the matter anyway, if it works it works.
Your mileage may vary, but I have never blown a fuse or melted wires when cranking a full set of Gerbings on high power using the stock 12 volt outlet.
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post #27 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 8:50 pm
 
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"Well it passes the smoke test..."

Now...THAT's funny, I don't care who ya are!
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post #28 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 9:13 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mneblett
I was not saying/implying any particular limit on the front sockets. The front sockets are both on the same cirouit -- regardless of how many sockets have something plugged in, the max current that can flow (to wherever in the circuit) is (theoretically) 15 amps. Whether that all flows through one socket or is split to two, 15A is the max you can pull without risking the fuse blowing.

And one last thought -- even though in theory you can pull 15A through one front socket, there *are* other things on that circuit, so the theoretical max of 180W is, as a practical matter, not attainable. The 165W total above is certainly doable, but it's just too close to max for my personal preferences -- not to mention the wire gauge leading to the socket isn't exactly huge for a sustained 15A load. Guess I'm just too conservative; I'd off-load it to the battery to increase the "margin."
One added point.... Most of us Gerbings users run our heated gear through a thermostat. The thermostat controls the temperature by limiting the current draw (amps) to the heated clothing. Unless you have the thermostats turned all the way up you will never draw max rated amps. I have a dual thermostat with one circuit controlling the pants liner/socks and the other circuit handling the jacket liner/gloves. The dual thermostat is plugged into the lower left accessory power socket. Total wattage of all my gear would be 165W if I had the thermostats turned all the way up. That's less than 12 amps at 13.8 volts. I've never needed to turn the thermostats to max but most of my lower range cold weather riding is in the upper 20's / low 30's. I usually find my thermostat adjustments are to turn them down rather than up. This less than max setting on the thermostats, resulting in less current draw, explains why many of us have never had any problems using the accessory power sockets to power our heated gear.

Bruce Hodges
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post #29 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 9:58 pm
 
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Question Sockets

The front two sockets? The front sockets?

What am I missing? I only have ONE front socket on my 2005 K1200LT. The one by my left foot. Are you counting the passenger socket at a front socket?

I had two sockets added on my 2001 K1200LT, so I have a total of four sockets on that bike.
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post #30 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 10:09 pm
 
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The front two sockets?
Don't the '05s have a socket up on the left side of the radio stingray, as well?
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post #31 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 11:41 pm
 
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My '05 doesn't. Built in May.
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post #32 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 11:44 pm
 
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Coni, An $80 option for an additional socket in the same spot on the right side was offered. Check the spot down there it is flat and ready, probably has wires behind it also.
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post #33 of 48 Old Nov 30th, 2005, 11:54 pm
 
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From experience the passenger outlet will not handle pants, jacket, and gloves at any setting on the controller. I replaced that fuse 3 times before I ran a Gerbings wire up to the passenger. Got tired of my wife knocking the CD player off just as Jimmy Buffet got to " I want to go where it's waaarm" in Boat Drinks.

Front socket handles everything.

Rick '05
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post #34 of 48 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 6:40 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TandemCyclist
An $80 option for an additional socket
$80?? Hope that's installed. Much less if you buy and install it yourself. The bike is pre-wired, so it's just a matter of drilling a hole in the right lower (and filing a small notch at the edge of the hole to accommodate the anti-rotation tab), installing the socket and its nut behind the panel, and plugging it into the existing wiring connector.

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post #35 of 48 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 6:45 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
Don't the '05s have a socket up on the left side of the radio stingray, as well?
That socket is for the forward VOICE II connector. Cheers
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post #36 of 48 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 12:38 pm
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"One added point.... Most of us Gerbings users run our heated gear through a thermostat. The thermostat controls the temperature by limiting the current draw (amps) to the heated clothing. Unless you have the thermostats turned all the way up you will never draw max rated amps."

I just KNEW I was missing something, thanks Bruce.

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post #37 of 48 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 1:12 pm
 
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Yep!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TandemCyclist
Coni, An $80 option for an additional socket in the same spot on the right side was offered. Check the spot down there it is flat and ready, probably has wires behind it also.
Rick
T-Ricky,
That is what I thought...I did it on my '01and it just makes sense since it is set up from the factory to do that.
It is all very clear now.
Thanks so much,
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post #38 of 48 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 10:10 pm
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Electrical Calculations

I saw a couple comments in this thread mentioning that if the voltage goes up, the amps go down. (P=IE or Power in Watts = Current in Amps * Voltage). I see a problem with this assumption. Although I have no experience with Gerbings equipment, I doubt they have a wattage regulator in their stuff. A heated vest/glove/sock/etc is wire somehow incorporated into a wearable fabric. This wire will have the same resistance no matter what the voltage is.

So assuming there is no change in resistance as the wire heats and cools (which is not a totally true assumption), the appropriate formula would be E=IR (R is resistance in ohms) or I=E/R to find the current. Therefore the current (amps) will rise when the voltage goes up.

For example, if the resistance of the wire in the item is 6 ohms the current would be 2 amps at 12 volts (12/6=2) and at 2.3 amps at 13.8 volts (13.8/6=2.3).

So, the current could be higher or lower depending on what voltage Gerbings used to base their wattage ratings.

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post #39 of 48 Old Dec 1st, 2005, 10:38 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffB
I saw a couple comments in this thread mentioning that if the voltage goes up, the amps go down. (P=IE or Power in Watts = Current in Amps * Voltage). I see a problem with this assumption. Although I have no experience with Gerbings equipment, I doubt they have a wattage regulator in their stuff. A heated vest/glove/sock/etc is wire somehow incorporated into a wearable fabric. This wire will have the same resistance no matter what the voltage is.

So assuming there is no change in resistance as the wire heats and cools (which is not a totally true assumption), the appropriate formula would be E=IR (R is resistance in ohms) or I=E/R to find the current. Therefore the current (amps) will rise when the voltage goes up.

For example, if the resistance of the wire in the item is 6 ohms the current would be 2 amps at 12 volts (12/6=2) and at 2.3 amps at 13.8 volts (13.8/6=2.3).

So, the current could be higher or lower depending on what voltage Gerbings used to base their wattage ratings.
Agreed. The newer controllers are pulse duty cycle-altering electronics.

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post #40 of 48 Old Dec 4th, 2005, 9:47 pm Thread Starter
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Update: More Info From Gerbing

Gerbing's last reply to my email, questioning their earlier comment that '05 LT accessory ports could not be used for their heated gear:

"Actually, the 04 BMW and newer have limiters on their ports. I would recommend contacting your dealer to find out what the maximum out-put for your bike/port is. Our gloves and socks are 2 amps each pair."

I think I understand enough of the replies on this thread to realize I'll be better off running their wiring harness directly to the battery.

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post #41 of 48 Old Dec 5th, 2005, 6:45 am
 
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Originally Posted by bruce2000ltc
One added point.... Most of us Gerbings users run our heated gear through a thermostat. The thermostat controls the temperature by limiting the current draw (amps) to the heated clothing. Unless you have the thermostats turned all the way up you will never draw max rated amps. I have a dual thermostat with one circuit controlling the pants liner/socks and the other circuit handling the jacket liner/gloves. The dual thermostat is plugged into the lower left accessory power socket. Total wattage of all my gear would be 165W if I had the thermostats turned all the way up. That's less than 12 amps at 13.8 volts. I've never needed to turn the thermostats to max but most of my lower range cold weather riding is in the upper 20's / low 30's. I usually find my thermostat adjustments are to turn them down rather than up. This less than max setting on the thermostats, resulting in less current draw, explains why many of us have never had any problems using the accessory power sockets to power our heated gear.

Bruce Hodges
This is my experience with Gerbings as well, except when having the heated gloves plugged into the liner. If it is really cold and I want "some heat" in the gloves, I have to crank the "thermostat" all the way until the liner gets too hot.

I have the heated clothing connections routed via a separate fuse box connected directly to the battery and have never had a problem. I am not so sure it would have been the same if plugged in to the OEM power outlets.

Since I started to use the "Warm n' Safe" liner, which is different than the Gerbing liner I have, I don't have to use as much power to feel heat, since it is not lined and there is not so much heat trapped in the lining itself. It also use spandex in the sides to guarantee a snug fit.

I use it together with a thin long sleeve shirt, which also reduce the bulk under my jacket.

Their (Warm n' Safe) heated gloves are also superior IMO, since they do not have a padded palm. Instead the use thin leather in the palm area and have the top side lined and wired.

This way I get full benefit of the heated grips and don't loose any feel of the bike through a "bulky" glove.

It may be worth considering. I know we are very happy with these new products.

Stefan
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post #42 of 48 Old Feb 24th, 2011, 7:56 pm
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LT Accessory Ports & Heated Clothing

Okay here's a stupid question:

I am now the proud owner of Gerbings Microwire liner and inner soles. I don't like using the accessory plugs because my stupid feet are always kicking out the cord.

Instead of wiring my Gerbings to the battery, couldn't I run them to a separate circuit on my Bluesea fuse box instead?

Just asking...

Rob V.B.
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post #43 of 48 Old Feb 24th, 2011, 8:13 pm
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Re: LT Accessory Ports & Heated Clothing

Quote:
Originally Posted by RVB1019
Okay here's a stupid question:

I am now the proud owner of Gerbings Microwire liner and inner soles. I don't like using the accessory plugs because my stupid feet are always kicking out the cord.

Instead of wiring my Gerbings to the battery, couldn't I run them to a separate circuit on my Bluesea fuse box instead?

Just asking...
Not stupid, and yes, absolutely.

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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post #44 of 48 Old Feb 24th, 2011, 8:40 pm
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Re: 2005 LT Accessory Ports & Heated Clothing

The wires to the auxilary plugs are pretty thin. I dont know the exact gauge, but suspect there is a substantial voltage drop from the battery to the plug when the heated clothing is plugged in. It would be interesting to do some voltage measurements.

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post #45 of 48 Old Feb 24th, 2011, 9:23 pm
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Re: 2005 LT Accessory Ports & Heated Clothing

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Originally Posted by RealWing
The wires to the auxilary plugs are pretty thin. I dont know the exact gauge, but suspect there is a substantial voltage drop from the battery to the plug when the heated clothing is plugged in. It would be interesting to do some voltage measurements.
They're actually not undersized -- the wires to the sockets are thick enough to carry their rated current with no significant voltage drop. BMW has always sized their wiring for actual load -- and not much more -- so the wires always looked too thin to me, someone who cut his teeth on old American autos. The fact is, though, if you go look at the DIN standards, the "thin" German wires are actually correctly sized for the load that is supposed to be carried. Guess it saves them cost by not over-spec'ing the wiring -- a couple cents per bike over 100,000 bikes/yr starts adding up. Plus the thinner wires are easier to bundle and route, and there's likely a few ounces of weight savings (also reasons supporting BMW's shift to CANBus-architectures on all the new bikes).

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA

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post #46 of 48 Old Feb 24th, 2011, 9:51 pm
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Re: 2005 LT Accessory Ports & Heated Clothing

If you have a tank bag why not power it. Thats what I did you can get the kit from Powerlett to do it. Just ran a line to my Bluesea fuse box. I can plug my controller in, charge my cell, ipod or anything I want with all the adapters, and it is easy to get to.

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post #47 of 48 Old Feb 25th, 2011, 8:42 am
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Re: 2005 LT Accessory Ports & Heated Clothing

I think the Gerbing rep is confusing BMW bikes with canbus. The Canbus sockets on 05 and newer R1200 bikes cannot handle the current. To the best of my knowledge, no model LT has a canbus.

Plug in your heated gear and enjoy

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post #48 of 48 Old Feb 25th, 2011, 7:21 pm
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Re: 2005 LT Accessory Ports & Heated Clothing

37K on the 02, more since the 07. W and I both with Gerbings jacket liners. Work great.

Jim Taylor
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