Threadlock final drive - which text is correct? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 1:15 pm Thread Starter
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Threadlock final drive - which text is correct?


I intend to replace the main seal this winter on my 2000 LT.

I know that many of you have been brave enough to have a go at this. As a way of psyching myself up for this I'm doing a lot of reading.

I've read of some people having particular difficulty with releasing the high torque final drive bearing journal nuts and studs. I'd like to avoid trouble in these areas.

Here's the question..

Clymer states that the FD nuts are secured with threadlock. The BMW manual doesnt mention threadlock either during dis or re-assembly.

Which is correct?

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post #2 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 2:19 pm
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Thread lock is a way to do it IF you don't have the cut away socket. I don't (neither does BMW) recommend it. It just makes the next trip in there that much more difficult and risks damage to the threads.

Another note is that if you do use it - then next time you need to completely remove it to set the low torque value (7 Nm) properly.

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Last edited by jzeiler; Oct 26th, 2007 at 2:27 pm.
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post #3 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 2:25 pm
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I am sure that people who have done this will chime in.
But from my research (I am about to do the same) you need a 2 foot tube attached to a nice strong breaker bar to shift the bolt if it has NOT been thread locked.
If it HAS been thread locked you need to heat it up first.
How do you know if it has been thread locked?
I dont know yet.
But if you have the full service history and it has never been stripped down before. Then it won't have been thread locked.
It shouldn't be thread locked even if it has been stripped down, but some places do thread lock when reinstalling this bolt and it will strip the threads if you try too hard and not heat it. If these threads get stripped - you aparently enter a special world of hell!
What damage will heating it do if it has not been thread locked?
Again I don't know
Good luck with it and do let me know how you got yours off, I will be there doing it soon myself.

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post #4 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 2:52 pm
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From what I am hearing, there seems to be a risk of damaging the threads either way.

Since when you refer to locktite, you are talking about heating up the bolt, you must be referring to red locktite which is permanent. Why is red locktite necessary? Why can't you just use blue locktite which will aid in securing the bolt without the need for heat and when it is necessary to remove the bolt again, there will be less risk?
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post #5 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 3:51 pm
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Because you'll likely have one that spalls. Dissimilar metals that weld themselves together, so no locktite is needed. Besides, you want to save the locktite for tasting, red is the bestest!

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post #6 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 6:39 pm
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I broke two break overs before I got a heavy duty one and a 3 foot cheater pipe. It cracked like a gunshot. I didn't have to use the modified socket, it didn't turn on me while torquing it. I guess I was lucky. I bought the socket but never got it welded. Next time I will............

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post #7 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 7:00 pm
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It will reduce your frustration immensely if you will get high quality, heavy duty tools to do this job right. Anything else will possibly lead to a LOT of frustration. Here's what I would recommend:

1/2" Drive BREAKER Bar (not a ratchet) at least 18" in length
3' long piece of thick walled pipe that will fit over the handle on the breaker bar for added leverage. (trust me -- you need it to be at least 3' long)
Get a modified 30mm socket to re-install the swing arm pivots and an extra long allen wrench to use with it (added length helps keep it from moving).

When you try to break the swingarm pivots loose, make sure you keep the socket (a six-point hopefully) very squared on the bolt/nut to prevent rounding. Using the 3' piece of pipe as a cheater bar, apply strong, constant pressure (counterclockwise) and it will POP loose. Be patient!

If you want to borrow a socket, many on here have them, including myself. Just let us know.

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post #8 of 8 Old Oct 27th, 2007, 2:51 pm
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Having done mine and helped several others without finding a single loose one I'd say locktite isn't required to keep things in place. I also had reason in one case to back up a step and had a heck of a time getting the recently tightened nuts loose. They stay put just fine.
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