Threadlock final drive - which text is correct? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 1:15 pm Thread Starter
BDC
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: leeds, , uk
Posts: 69
Threadlock final drive - which text is correct?

Hi

I intend to replace the main seal this winter on my 2000 LT.

I know that many of you have been brave enough to have a go at this. As a way of psyching myself up for this I'm doing a lot of reading.

I've read of some people having particular difficulty with releasing the high torque final drive bearing journal nuts and studs. I'd like to avoid trouble in these areas.

Here's the question..

Clymer states that the FD nuts are secured with threadlock. The BMW manual doesnt mention threadlock either during dis or re-assembly.

Which is correct?

Chris
BDC is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 2:19 pm
Wrencher Extraordinaire
 
jzeiler's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Hazel Green, AL, USA
Posts: 13,269
Thread lock is a way to do it IF you don't have the cut away socket. I don't (neither does BMW) recommend it. It just makes the next trip in there that much more difficult and risks damage to the threads.

Another note is that if you do use it - then next time you need to completely remove it to set the low torque value (7 Nm) properly.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by jzeiler; Oct 26th, 2007 at 2:27 pm.
jzeiler is offline  
post #3 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 2:25 pm
Senior Member
 
c00k1e's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Powys, , Wales & Cuba
Posts: 1,876
I am sure that people who have done this will chime in.
But from my research (I am about to do the same) you need a 2 foot tube attached to a nice strong breaker bar to shift the bolt if it has NOT been thread locked.
If it HAS been thread locked you need to heat it up first.
How do you know if it has been thread locked?
I dont know yet.
But if you have the full service history and it has never been stripped down before. Then it won't have been thread locked.
It shouldn't be thread locked even if it has been stripped down, but some places do thread lock when reinstalling this bolt and it will strip the threads if you try too hard and not heat it. If these threads get stripped - you aparently enter a special world of hell!
What damage will heating it do if it has not been thread locked?
Again I don't know
Good luck with it and do let me know how you got yours off, I will be there doing it soon myself.

"Whenever you find you are on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect" Mark Twain


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
c00k1e is offline  
 
post #4 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 2:52 pm
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Littleton, CO, USA
Posts: 937
From what I am hearing, there seems to be a risk of damaging the threads either way.

Since when you refer to locktite, you are talking about heating up the bolt, you must be referring to red locktite which is permanent. Why is red locktite necessary? Why can't you just use blue locktite which will aid in securing the bolt without the need for heat and when it is necessary to remove the bolt again, there will be less risk?
rglassma is offline  
post #5 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 3:51 pm
Senior Member
 
grifscoots's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Outside New Braunfels , TX, USA
Posts: 13,451
Because you'll likely have one that spalls. Dissimilar metals that weld themselves together, so no locktite is needed. Besides, you want to save the locktite for tasting, red is the bestest!



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3

-=grif=-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Grok
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
grifscoots is offline  
post #6 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 6:39 pm
Senior Member
 
rattler50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Wichita Falls, Tx, USA
Posts: 1,337
I broke two break overs before I got a heavy duty one and a 3 foot cheater pipe. It cracked like a gunshot. I didn't have to use the modified socket, it didn't turn on me while torquing it. I guess I was lucky. I bought the socket but never got it welded. Next time I will............

2006 R1200RT
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue
2003 K1200LTE Black
Totaled Oct 2, 2010
2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 2000
Most of us would rather be ruined by praise than saved by criticism.
rattler50 is offline  
post #7 of 8 Old Oct 26th, 2007, 7:00 pm
Senior Member
 
cccpastorjack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Cornelius, North Carolina, USA
Posts: 1,986
It will reduce your frustration immensely if you will get high quality, heavy duty tools to do this job right. Anything else will possibly lead to a LOT of frustration. Here's what I would recommend:

1/2" Drive BREAKER Bar (not a ratchet) at least 18" in length
3' long piece of thick walled pipe that will fit over the handle on the breaker bar for added leverage. (trust me -- you need it to be at least 3' long)
Get a modified 30mm socket to re-install the swing arm pivots and an extra long allen wrench to use with it (added length helps keep it from moving).

When you try to break the swingarm pivots loose, make sure you keep the socket (a six-point hopefully) very squared on the bolt/nut to prevent rounding. Using the 3' piece of pipe as a cheater bar, apply strong, constant pressure (counterclockwise) and it will POP loose. Be patient!

If you want to borrow a socket, many on here have them, including myself. Just let us know.

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
'06 Goldwing - "The Black Pearl"
Too many others to list...


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
cccpastorjack is offline  
post #8 of 8 Old Oct 27th, 2007, 2:51 pm
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Downey, CA, USA
Posts: 1,330
Having done mine and helped several others without finding a single loose one I'd say locktite isn't required to keep things in place. I also had reason in one case to back up a step and had a heck of a time getting the recently tightened nuts loose. They stay put just fine.
mjordans2000 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the BMW Luxury Touring Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Final Drive failure...05LT....49,000 miles DRothermel K1200LT 51 Jan 3rd, 2012 4:08 am
NHTSA and final drive failures tmgs K1200LT 11 Sep 17th, 2007 8:57 am
So what is a final drive worth ? Patric K1200LT 12 Jun 27th, 2007 4:47 pm
Final Drive Seal @ Drive Shaft Crestwood330 K1200LT 3 Jun 25th, 2007 8:58 pm
R1100RT Final Drive Oil Leak markbreen Other R-Bike Discussion 3 Jul 12th, 2006 10:11 am

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome