Quick disconnect....I know again... - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 13 Old Oct 22nd, 2007, 1:39 pm Thread Starter
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Quick disconnect....I know again...

My broke this weekend but from what I'm reading mine was completely different from what the re-call intails. The male end connection actually
cracked at the base and that is where fuel was coming out of....has anyone
else had the actual housing of the disconnect itself crack?
I call BMW on this and the re-call was fixing hose clamp issues and o-rings.
We ended up doing a road side fix with a barbed brass peice we got from Checker and some hose clamp. Wondering if I should even bother replacing with the metal disconnects....seems even with the metal the o-ring would still be a problem eventually.

Your thoughts?
Thanks Bob

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post #2 of 13 Old Oct 22nd, 2007, 3:01 pm
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Every leak we have found on the LTs here (including mine a few weeks ago) have been from a crack in the male plastic part at the ridge where the female side clip catches and holds the male connector. At least two of the leaking disconnects have been the inside (nearest the fuel tank) connector.

I have the metal units to replace them with, but have just not had the time or inclination to do it. BTW - I am back to my 50 - 51+ MPG again. No idea how long the leak existed.

Lee Nowell
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post #3 of 13 Old Oct 22nd, 2007, 3:04 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnowell
I have the metal units to replace them with, but have just not had the time or inclination to do it.
You should go ahead Lee, just for the peace of mind, especially since you already have the parts.

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post #4 of 13 Old Oct 22nd, 2007, 3:19 pm
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Bob,

she'll run fine with the brass barb in place instead of QDs. Just makes things a tad more difficult come service time.

Replacing fuel filter, air filter, etc requires removing the tank from the bike. Totally up to you if you'd rather have QDs or instead have to futz with unclamping a brass tube, pull it apart and catch all the resulting fuel spill when you work on it.

You're not a smoker are you? <g>

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post #5 of 13 Old Oct 22nd, 2007, 3:52 pm Thread Starter
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so is this the cheapest place to get the metal ones?

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showpost...18&postcount=2

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post #6 of 13 Old Oct 22nd, 2007, 4:32 pm
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Not sure if they are the cheapest, but here is the complete list of part #s, including the O-rings.

I got mine at www.mscdirect.com, the part numbers are:
2 x 88080445 $24.81 each
Description: 5/16"SHUTOFF HOSE BARB LCD CPLING BODY IN-LINE

2 x 88080486 $15.30 each
Description: 5/16"HOSE BARB SHUTOFF LCD CPLING INSERT IN-LINE

1 x 9452K19 BUNA-N O-RING, PK $2.05 (100 in the package)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TBob
so is this the cheapest place to get the metal ones?

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showpost...18&postcount=2

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post #7 of 13 Old Oct 22nd, 2007, 7:28 pm
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I just could not justify spending that much money on such a simple repair.

I went with the brass barbs and spring clamps vs. the worm drive since they don't "chew" the hose.

AND four locking hemostats from Harbor Freight at $2.99 each (I got 'em on sale) to pinch the hoses when its time to work on her to keep everything dry.

If you're REALLY cheap you only need two hemostats, since the backflow from the injector side when you pull the hose is only a few drops that you can catch in a shop towel.

$3.00 for a foolproof connection plus $12.00 in "special" tools bought locally vs. $80.00 for the high tech option plus shipping, although it will take me an extra 30 seconds to disconnect/connect.
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post #8 of 13 Old Oct 22nd, 2007, 7:54 pm
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http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthre...5&page=1&pp=10


Check out the previous thread about QD's. I bought mine from smallparts.com
I believe it was $46.00 for all four parts.

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post #9 of 13 Old Oct 22nd, 2007, 8:24 pm
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Bob

I run Racer Parts Wholesale in Indy. We stock the Jiffy-tite line of QD. They are not inexpensive but they will likely be the last set you will need to buy. They are all aluminum construction utilizing viton seals. The part numbers you need are JIF-21505E and JIF-22505.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/jiftite1.htm

Jack

Quote:
Originally Posted by TBob
My broke this weekend but from what I'm reading mine was completely different from what the re-call intails. The male end connection actually
cracked at the base and that is where fuel was coming out of....has anyone
else had the actual housing of the disconnect itself crack?
I call BMW on this and the re-call was fixing hose clamp issues and o-rings.
We ended up doing a road side fix with a barbed brass peice we got from Checker and some hose clamp. Wondering if I should even bother replacing with the metal disconnects....seems even with the metal the o-ring would still be a problem eventually.

Your thoughts?
Thanks Bob
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post #10 of 13 Old Oct 23rd, 2007, 10:22 am
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Being very high on preventative procedures, I had mine removed for barbs the last time my dealer had the tupperware off. Total cost was less than $20, and I didn't get dirty.

That's another "no worrys" for me. I don't know why more folks don't do this BEFORE leaks are an issue. That's one of the really great benefits of this site - we get to learn from others problems....
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post #11 of 13 Old Oct 23rd, 2007, 10:58 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jborsos
Bob

I run Racer Parts Wholesale in Indy. We stock the Jiffy-tite line of QD. They are not inexpensive but they will likely be the last set you will need to buy. They are all aluminum construction utilizing viton seals. The part numbers you need are JIF-21505E and JIF-22505.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/jiftite1.htm

Jack

Hey Jack do I need two of each or can I just replace the feed one?
Thanks

Woody
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post #12 of 13 Old Oct 23rd, 2007, 10:59 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jborsos
Bob

I run Racer Parts Wholesale in Indy. We stock the Jiffy-tite line of QD. They are not inexpensive but they will likely be the last set you will need to buy. They are all aluminum construction utilizing viton seals. The part numbers you need are JIF-21505E and JIF-22505.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/jiftite1.htm

Jack

Hey Jack do I need two sets or can I just buy one set for the feed line? Do the viton o-rings ever need replacing?

Woody
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post #13 of 13 Old Oct 23rd, 2007, 12:44 pm
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Woody,

You can buy just one set if you want but as long as you're doing the job I would replace both. Never forget Murphy's Law.
The Viton seals should never need replaced.

Murphy's Law applying to installing only one set of QDs not the replacement of the Viton seals.
Jack

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodysLT
Hey Jack do I need two sets or can I just buy one set for the feed line? Do the viton o-rings ever need replacing?

Woody
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