Originally Posted by pozo_izquierdo
Just make sure you will not have left over parts for a second LT when you are done...
Three screws were left over - all three are weird looking. I did have to make a few decisions on what holes got 12 or 15 or 20 mm T25 screws. There is a lot of help here for that, plus I bought the BMW fiche and Clymer manual (believe me, having both REALLY helped) but there's a lot of undocumented screw lengths - most notably, the nose cone area.
I also had a little round rubber cap left over. About 3/4" round an a few millimeters high. I remember taking it off but forgot where it goes back. If anybody knows where it goes...
Read an article in this months Motocycle Consumer News (my favorite motorcycle mag) about being so excited about taking things apart you don't document them thinking you'll remember. Eight weeks later, I was really pissed at myself for not slowing down and documenting (things come off real fast and go on real slow). Before I started, someone said make liberal use of a digital camera. I did not. Another mistake.
Originally Posted by Tom_Becker
what's all this noise about the bike living in the desert that it dried out?
It was living in Palmdale, CA. Covered with a fine desert dust/dirt. Very hard to get off. I'd wash things with a sponge and soap and when it dried, there'd still be dirt on it!
Originally Posted by zippy_gg)
Mike, let me know if you need some help putting it back together. I am in Van Nuys. Whereabout are you in L.A.?
The picture below is 2 days after I finished putting it back together - at the Grand Canyon. My suggestion to anyone who does this (besides the above advice) is to go back over the whole bike with a torque wrench. I wasn't happy about finishing the bike and leaving the next day (my plan was to finish a month earlier, but again - it comes apart fast and goes together slow).
Monterey Park - Just east of Downtown. Let's ride! Or drop by for some fabulous Chinese food.
Originally Posted by petervandyke)
put a seat on it, fabricate some protective bars for the vulnerable areas, tell people it's the new Suzuki B-King, they won't know the difference!
You can put the seat, tank, and crash bars on it and drive it that way. I did to make sure I had a few things right. Wow, is it a different bike without the weight.
Originally Posted by taylorjn)
Hey! Mine is that clean. Ok. It was till we rode in the dust. But I cheated - it's an 07.
Originally Posted by cdrprn)
I dream about doing this, then I look at all those screws, knowing there are alot more hidden I don't even know about yet.
That's what I thought. But surprisingly, there aren't that many hidden. Just take from me what I learned - document, document, document.
Originally Posted by LAF)
Don't forget a big tube of dialectic grease for all those connectors you have out in the open now.
I documented everything when I did this to my ZX-12R when I got it four years ago and it was fast and easy to put it back together. I still have the ZX-12R and it looks showroom fresh 'cuz now I can just wash it and use a little Protect-All or Honda Polish and it's back to new again.
So here's what I did:
Installed BMR shelf with Garmin Zumo 550 and XM Navtraffic.
Added Passport 9500 Radar Detector.
Removed 6 Disc Changer and replaced with Dice interface and 60Gb iPod.
Wired everything to a Autocom Super Pro Avi.
Powered everything through a Touratech relay-activated fuse block.
Rewired the poorly done SmarTire (I love this thing - dead-nuts accurate).
Installed Suburban Machinary peg lowering kit.
Installed Cee Bailey Windshield - #2 with wings -4" clear & round.
Installed the fuel line connector upgrades (not by choice
As mentioned, upgraded to four Alpine speakers
Replaced parts that weren't taken care of (did you know those wings next to the windshield are $55? EACH??????)
Here's the kicker - I ran all wires through 3/4" plastic hosing from under the headlight to just over the front of the battery and pulled electricians string through it so I can pull more wires without disassembling. Also, I bought 8 foot sub-mini stereo extension cables (four) from Radio Shack and ran them from front to back (you can see the three white connectors in the picture below). Now all the accessories that go into the Autocom have their plugs under the front fairing cover - and they're clearly labeled. So if I have a problem or want to ad or change accessories, I merely remove the fairing cover and there it all is!
Lastly, whoever wired the Autocom speaker cut-off was a dolt. So I undid the whole thing (about 25 bullet connectors) and wired in a plug to the speaker wires. Now when I take off the tupperware, it's just another plug to take the music interface off. And I made a loopback connector so if the switch goes kablooey (which they have a reputation for) I can plug in the loopback plug and the bike stereo goes back to stock operation.
MOST OF THE OPTIONS I DID came from information I got here.
I got REALLY bummed that the board crashed the day before I left and didn't work the whole time I was gone. Three or four questions came up that I would have liked help with.
So thanks for the praise - this place is great - and below you'll see the ONLY reason I bought this bike:
The ride between the north and south rim of the Grand Canyon:
Before the rewire job:
And after. What you can hardly see (below) is all wires are wrapped with labels - nothing to chance!
Added in the Autocom 1321 music interface bypass switch with a molex connector. The A/B/C labels now correspond to the A/B/C I wrote in my Clymer manual so I don't have to read diagrams and wires to figure out what's what. The L on the molex connector means that is the stereo's left side wires. Now if a speaker goes dead, I know which side of the connector to start troubleshooting. Note shrink-wrap and wire ties on all connections - everywhere. Another idea I got from this board!!!