Originally Posted by chrisorkelly
So..........If everything looks aligned, and has grease, and I need more throw(?), which rod gets the adjustment?
The long rod is connected to the shift pedal at one end via a ball joint, and to the relay lever at the other end via a ball joint. Note that the "cups" on the long rod face 180 degrees apart. Changing the length of the long rod changes the relative "height" of the end of the shift pedal; in other words, that black rubber thing that you step on to downshift can be higher or lower at rest, depending on the length of the long rod. (If you have big feet and a large boot, you want the pedal to be higher so you can slip your boot underneath the end and upshift.) The height of the pedal (and the relative length of the long rod) is of interest in this connection only if the pedal is set so low in its range that it "bottoms out" before it travels enough distance to get a full "throw" when downshifting. Possible but unlikely. The relay lever can sometimes get canted sideways or can get grit inside its inner bushing, causing restricted movement. If it has not been cleaned, lubricated, and reinstalled with its pivot bolt tightened to 8 Nm in the past 2-3 years, I recommend that you do that. The short shift rod is attached to the throw arm on the relay lever via a ball joint at one end, and to outside end of the shift lever via a ball joint at the other. The other end of the shift lever wraps around and clamps to the shift shaft, which disappears into the transmission and does Mysterious Things. Changing the length of the short rod changes the relative "height" of the end of shift shaft at rest and changes the length of the "throw". When you step down on the shift pedal (i.e., downshifting) the long rod is pulled forward. This causes the relay lever to rotate anticlockwise (looking at it on end from the left side of the bike), which pushes the short rod and the outside end of the shift lever down, which causes anticlockwise rotation of the shift shaft. Which does Mysterious Things. If your shift pedal is not bottoming out you have to adjust the short rod, lengthening it to get more throw or shortening it to get less. Here's the rub: if the rod already is too long it's not allowing the shift lever (and shift shaft) to return to the proper "neutral" position (not neutral as in no gear engaged, neutral as in the gear is properly engaged and the return spring on the shift shaft has moved it back into its proper position, ready for another shift). If the rod is too short, you are not getting enough rotational movement on the shift shaft (not enough "throw"). The only way that I know of to distinguish between these two conditions is to measure the position of the center of the ball joint on the outside end of the shift lever at rest relative to the center of the slave cylinder, and you can't do this with the tranny on the bike without pulling the swing arm. So, I have resorted to trial and error, which is a PITA. Logic would suggest starting by shortening the short rod 1 turn (you can't do 1/2 turns and have the cups line up the way that they must) because it is more likely that the rod has lengthened than that it has shortened. However, if the actual cause of the downshift problem is that one or more of the ball joints has bent toward its mate you will need to replace that ball and rod length may be fine. If the problem is that the rod length is too long and the shift lever/shift shaft cannot return to "neutral", you'll have to shorten the length of the rod. Trial and error again, sorry. Good luck.