Fuel Filter Change w/o Disconnects - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 11 Old May 17th, 2007, 6:38 am Thread Starter
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Fuel Filter Change w/o Disconnects

The last two times I had the dealer change the fuel filter. This time I am going to do the task. As for installing quick disconnects while it is apart, I would rather not. I will have less than two gallons of fuel in the tank and have a few questions.
1. Should I use vise grips on the gas line(s) or insert a screw into the fuel line(s) when I take it apart?

2. With the big rubber (or neoprene) washer, should I oil or grease it when putting it back together? (I have a new washer).

3. Is it best to lay the tank on its side when taking the filter housing out?

Thanks for your answers/suggestions!

Mike Trevelino
Williamsburg, VA
2008 RT
2000 LT - Totaled at 99,960 miles


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post #2 of 11 Old May 17th, 2007, 6:50 am
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I bought the small fuel line clamps at Pep Boys ($6) years ago for this task on my K12 and sandy's R1200C.

Jack Homesley (cccpastorjack) just bought some that look like vise grips but are yellow plastic and will work well too.

Wes Phillips
Lake Norman, NC

99 K1200LT "Hans"
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post #3 of 11 Old May 17th, 2007, 7:58 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrevelino
The last two times I had the dealer change the fuel filter. This time I am going to do the task. As for installing quick disconnects while it is apart, I would rather not. I will have less than two gallons of fuel in the tank and have a few questions.
1. Should I use vise grips on the gas line(s) or insert a screw into the fuel line(s) when I take it apart?
No matter how your fuel lines are connected it is likely that you will get some fuel spill, so in preparation make sure that all safety precautions and procedures are in place. Rather than using a screw to block off the ends of the fuel lines (you would have a LOT of fuel on the bike, the floor, and on you), block them by using something to compress the fuel line before removing the lines from the connectors. Vice grips will work, and many folks put pennies on either side of a line to distribute the force and protect the line from the edges of the vice grip. But you will be working in an area with little room, and as jwp767 noted above, the little plastic fuel line pinchers are cheap, small, lightweight, and work well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrevelino
2. With the big rubber (or neoprene) washer, should I oil or grease it when putting it back together? (I have a new washer).
The gasket that the big cap nut goes over? No oil or grease, and it only needs to be replaced if it is damaged or leaking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrevelino
3. Is it best to lay the tank on its side when taking the filter housing out?
You can lay it on its side, but you will have to block it and support it to keep it steady. Getting the cap nut off can be a pita if you have to steady the tank with your other hand. I have pinched off the hose from the roll-over valve and turned the tank upside down, making sure that I am not putting any weight on the roll-over valve.

Bill
Guilford, CT
'99 Canyon Red K1200 LT - Buddah Bike
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post #4 of 11 Old May 17th, 2007, 9:09 am
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Opinions and answers

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrevelino
The last two times I had the dealer change the fuel filter. This time I am going to do the task. As for installing quick disconnects while it is apart, I would rather not. I will have less than two gallons of fuel in the tank and have a few questions.
1. Should I use vise grips on the gas line(s) or insert a screw into the fuel line(s) when I take it apart?

2. With the big rubber (or neoprene) washer, should I oil or grease it when putting it back together? (I have a new washer).

3. Is it best to lay the tank on its side when taking the filter housing out?

Thanks for your answers/suggestions!
1. Attached is a pic showing two types of temp clamping. Putting a couple of sockets on the ends of a vice grip makes a temp clamp which is less likely to damage the hose. Or just find the right size plug, I use Phillips screwdrivers, wooden dowels, pencils, what ever is handy.

2. I have always just replaced the original rubber washer without any lube.

3. With only a couple of gallons of gas in the tank you can prop the tank up against the garage wall positioning it so that gas neither runs out the filter access opening or the filler neck.


By the way, I have reused the original (non-resuable) hose clamps several times. Using a screwdriver of the appropriate size I gentle stretched open the clamp where it is crimped into a triangular shape. Open it just enough to allow the clamp to slip on the hose and enable the hose to slip off the coupling. When replacing the clamps I squeezed them tight again using a pair of dikes (wire cutters) at the base of the crimped triangle. Any sign of cracking in the clamps should cause you to discard them, but the can be reused.

Another tip: When disconnecting the couplings, leave one coupling attached to the bike. Leave the other coupling attached to the gas tank. That way you won't have to spend time trying to figure out which hose goes to which. (This is the same reason when installing quick disconnects the two should be installed in opposite directions, i.e. one male and one female on the tank)
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Last edited by CharlieVT; May 17th, 2007 at 10:50 am.
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post #5 of 11 Old May 17th, 2007, 2:27 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrevelino
1. Should I use vise grips on the gas line(s) or insert a screw into the fuel line(s) when I take it apart?
I've done the filter several times. You'll want the lines clamped before separating them. Things are tight under there due to the way the hoses are bent. I use mini C-Clamps (2" high) I found at Sears. There also exist small clamps specifically for hoses (M. Nebett has them) but I have never found them locally.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrevelino
2. With the big rubber (or neoprene) washer, should I oil or grease it when putting it back together? (I have a new washer).?
No need. The rubber ring fits into the tank and the filter assembly just sits on top of it with the pressure of the lock nut holding the bottom surface of the filter to the top of the ring. Just make sure the top surface of the ring and bottom of the filter are clean.

First time I changed it I reused the crimp clamps. The second time I replaced them with screw clamps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrevelino
3. Is it best to lay the tank on its side when taking the filter housing out?
I rest mine upside down with the back end elevated. It's best to have the tank nearly empty. Last time I change the filter I drained it completely and flushed the tank out with some denatured alcohol and found all sorts of crud including plastic shavings in it.

Also keep track of the rubber bushings for the back bolts which hold the tank. They have a habit of sticking in the tank when its removed then losing themselves. Getting everything aligned again and those bolts started can also be a job best done with three hands.

Chuck Gardner
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post #6 of 11 Old May 17th, 2007, 3:35 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for your comments! I am going to take the panels off tomorrow and then run some errands (looking for the hose clamps or small c-clamps, among other (honey do) things)). I will pull the tank Saturday morning, re-run a lot of wires, install a fuse block, re-run cb wires from left saddle bag to left handle bar, change clutch fluid, change the spark plugs (after checking the valves), and put everything back together. A fun filled weekend!!!

Mike Trevelino
Williamsburg, VA
2008 RT
2000 LT - Totaled at 99,960 miles


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post #7 of 11 Old May 18th, 2007, 8:48 am
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One more idea. Golf Tees. I've heard they work well as plugs for the lines.

Bill McAllister
St. Louis, MO.
2003 K1200LTE
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post #8 of 11 Old May 18th, 2007, 9:11 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McAllister
One more idea. Golf Tees. I've heard they work well as plugs for the lines.

Yeah - You just have to be really fast before all the gas squirts out!!!! (And not being a fumble finger helps as well).

John
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #9 of 11 Old May 18th, 2007, 10:31 am Thread Starter
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This morning I stripped the bike down and ran some errands. I did stop by Pep Boys and found the fuel line clamps (thanks Wes for the suggestion!). From the dealer changing the fuel filter before I can see that two of the hose clamps were changed with screw type clamps, and they are on opposite side of the hose coupling. This should make things easier. Now the fun begins!

Mike Trevelino
Williamsburg, VA
2008 RT
2000 LT - Totaled at 99,960 miles


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post #10 of 11 Old May 18th, 2007, 11:12 am
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You are gonna feel soooo good when you're done. The money saved is part of it, but the best part for me is getting to know the bike that much better and becoming competent (or, for me, semi-semi-competent) to do the maintenance. (People who know me would put a lot more semi's in that phrase, but they all tend to be mean people ).

Bill
Guilford, CT
'99 Canyon Red K1200 LT - Buddah Bike
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post #11 of 11 Old May 18th, 2007, 3:55 pm Thread Starter
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I got the fuel and air filters changed. Those line clamps sure helped out. I laid the tank on its side up against a wall which was nice taking apart the filter housing. The rubber gasket had some crud on it. I had a new one so I replaced it. Also after the old filter was sitting for a while, I tried to blow through it and it was difficult. In the "old" days this meant that the filter was plugged. I got the tank, seat, and radio housing back on. I also changed the anti freeze while everything was apart. Tomorrow I will check the valves and clean up some of my electrical wiring.

Mike Trevelino
Williamsburg, VA
2008 RT
2000 LT - Totaled at 99,960 miles


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