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post #1 of 29 Old May 16th, 2007, 6:18 pm Thread Starter
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coolent change

Attended the tech session 5-5-07 hosted by Griff. Everyone was great and friendly. I learned more than I thought I would. Next question about maintance is the coolent changing. Any got-ya's in attempting this? Does the rubber need to be changed? I have read the info here about the break fluid and that seems straight forward.

any info on either topic is helpfull.

Jim
01 LT 22500 mi
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post #2 of 29 Old May 16th, 2007, 8:57 pm Thread Starter
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also is there any other coolent other than the BMW stuff that will work.

Jim
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post #3 of 29 Old May 16th, 2007, 9:35 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loansumrider
Attended the tech session 5-5-07 hosted by Griff. Everyone was great and friendly. I learned more than I thought I would. Next question about maintance is the coolent changing. Any got-ya's in attempting this? Does the rubber need to be changed? I have read the info here about the break fluid and that seems straight forward.

any info on either topic is helpfull.

Jim
01 LT 22500 mi
Hi, Jim. Glad to have metcha at Grif's tech session. That one just about covered everythang; 'cept I don't remember if Brian or Bones did a coolant change?

Ole Toad is due for a coolant change also - don't remember the last time it wuz changed, butt would have been Lone Star who did it, so it's been a coupla years or more. At any rate, maybe we can schedule another tech session somewhere and do a two-fer coolant change. I think there are write ups in HoW pages describing the process. I betcha we can find somebody around here who has changed their's and might be willing to lend a hand. I'll check my social calendar and see if there are any dates that might work for you and others, assuming you'd like company!!

Regarding other brands of coolant - there are some 'no-no's' and 'must have's' as far as the coolant formula recommended by BMW. I've got a gallon of BMW and I'll take a look at the recipe in the next day or so to see whats in it, and letcha know. In the meantime, I'll watch this thread for responses you'll be getting.
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post #4 of 29 Old May 16th, 2007, 10:06 pm
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Last time I checked it was 50-50 or 60-40 for "extreme" conditions.

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post #5 of 29 Old May 16th, 2007, 10:10 pm
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That's antifreeze to water 60-40 which is a nice way to go in case you ever need to top it off with straight water.

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post #6 of 29 Old May 17th, 2007, 6:54 am
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Coolant Change

I personally used what I had in the cabinet. Any name brand will do. I'm sure everyone has their personal favorites. Mix it 50/50 with water. There are write ups posted. I've done it both ways, the way the book says, and what I can only call dshealy's way which is much faster, but can make a hell of a mess with all the antifreeze going all over if you aren't careful.

I won't even try to spell out all the steps here. If you can't find the write up, message me and I'll get you the steps I used. It's pretty straightforward. Draining is the EASY part. It's the filling that is tricky. At least I thought it was. I had a difficult time getting my fill tube in the neck of the radiator with all the plastic still on.
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post #7 of 29 Old May 17th, 2007, 7:26 am
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Careful. The manual states that the LT needs a 50:50 mixture of nitrate free coolant with corrosion inhibitors. If you are going to mix your own, the manual recommends "only soft or distilled water. Never use tap water or salt water. . . . Never use alcohol based antifreeze." You can buy a jug of the nitrate free pre-mixed stuff with corrosion inhibitors at any auto parts store. Changing the coolant is a bit of a pita because the radiator cap and fill opening are buried. I wait until I am going to have the tupperware off for other maintenance purposes and change the coolant at the same time. The manual recommended intervals are to check the coolant level and concentration every 12K, replace coolant annually.

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post #8 of 29 Old May 17th, 2007, 8:37 am
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Probably a foolish question , but why do you need to change the antifreeze. I have owned cars and trucks that I know th antifreeze wasn't changed in 20 years and no problems.

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post #9 of 29 Old May 17th, 2007, 11:10 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loansumrider
Attended the tech session 5-5-07 hosted by Griff. Everyone was great and friendly. I learned more than I thought I would. Next question about maintance is the coolent changing. Any got-ya's in attempting this? Does the rubber need to be changed? I have read the info here about the break fluid and that seems straight forward.

any info on either topic is helpfull.

Jim
01 LT 22500 mi
Hola Jim, good to hear from ya. Enjoyed the chat and meeting ya.
I did not change the coolant at this service but I did last year. I feel OK with a two (or more) year interval period. Even is the hot part of Tejas I do not worry too much.

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post #10 of 29 Old May 17th, 2007, 11:41 am
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I would stick with the BMW coolant. 1 gallon will do at least 3 changes. While I had it drained and tupperware free I decided to replace the 4 year old cap. Went to auto parts to buy one,no dice,they fit but the OEM is a 21 lb test and the best auto parts one is 16lb. Got one on order from Chicago BMW though. Should be here sometime next year.

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post #11 of 29 Old May 17th, 2007, 4:06 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanMartin
I would stick with the BMW coolant. 1 gallon will do at least 3 changes. While I had it drained and tupperware free I decided to replace the 4 year old cap. Went to auto parts to buy one,no dice,they fit but the OEM is a 21 lb test and the best auto parts one is 16lb. Got one on order from Chicago BMW though. Should be here sometime next year.

dan
I did mine this year and used almost a full gallon.. ??

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post #12 of 29 Old May 17th, 2007, 6:20 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackd
I did mine this year and used almost a full gallon.. ??
How? The coolant needs to be diluted 50-50. it only holds 2.5 quarts.

dan
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post #13 of 29 Old May 17th, 2007, 7:22 pm
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Originally Posted by DanMartin
How? The coolant needs to be diluted 50-50. it only holds 2.5 quarts.

dan
Well, looks like I need to drain a few quarts out...

I went and 'really' looked. I find I should have read the directions a little closer.. It said not to add anything else to the solution but reading more carefully it also said to add water to a 50/50 or 60/40 concentration...

Good thing I haven't been in any extreme weather.. yet...

I just love it when I make work for myself..

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post #14 of 29 Old May 18th, 2007, 7:59 am
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I spoke with my dealer about getting the air and fuel filter changed (I'm too chicken to remove the gas tank myself) and also asked about changing the anti-freeze. He said to change the anti-freeze every four years if you are putting on the miles per year that I am (about 13,000). I know this differs from the manual, but dealers frequently do things not in the book and I think my dealer is extremely competent so I'll follow his recommendations.

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post #15 of 29 Old May 18th, 2007, 8:41 am
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don't get to say this too often...

...and it may seem counterintuitive, but your local HD dealer stocks an antifreeze for the V-rod that is premixed to 50-50 with distilled water, and meets the BMW spec.

with its porsche designed engine, the needs are pretty similar - its convenient, and the price is not outta line.

as always YMMV. ;-)

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post #16 of 29 Old May 18th, 2007, 11:55 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alstrickland55
Probably a foolish question , but why do you need to change the antifreeze. I have owned cars and trucks that I know th antifreeze wasn't changed in 20 years and no problems.
No, there are no foolish questions, Al. Many people never change the coolant in their cars/trucks (although it usually is recommended by the manufacturer). The reasons that I do it on the LT include: 1) Corrosion inhibitors break down over time, and I don't want any corrosion anywhere in the cooling system. 2) The 50:50 recommended mixture of water and antifreeze will change over time, mostly due to condensation within the system, which means that the water will increase in proportion to the antifreeze. I live in the North and ride year round, so I want to make sure that I keep the proportions right. 3) New coolant is more efficient and effective in pulling heat from the engine and getting rid of it in the radiators than old coolant. 4) Coolant fluid gets dirty over time, and I want to flush out the crud before it has a chance to settle into some corner and begin blocking a passage.
I have not heard of many radiator failures on LTs, so this might be overkill. For me, changing the coolant is cheap insurance.

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post #17 of 29 Old May 18th, 2007, 3:47 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanMartin
How? The coolant needs to be diluted 50-50. it only holds 2.5 quarts.
dan
I just changed mine and it took approximately 4 quarts including the overflow tank.

I am hoping that all of the air was removed when I filled it. I have not started it yet as I want to check the valves. Only time will tell!

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post #18 of 29 Old May 18th, 2007, 4:05 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrevelino
I just changed mine and it took approximately 4 quarts including the overflow tank.

I am hoping that all of the air was removed when I filled it. I have not started it yet as I want to check the valves. Only time will tell!
Did you massage the hoses? That helps to burp the air out.



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post #19 of 29 Old May 19th, 2007, 1:56 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
Did you massage the hoses? That helps to burp the air out.
No I did not massage the hoses. I think that I was the one needing the massage. I filled the radiator extremely slow hoping that all the air would get out. I took it out for a ride today and the temperature gauge seemed to be working fine. After pulling the tank I can see why the bmw dealers charge what they do. They also have to mess with any farkles installed.

My bigger issue is one of my intake valves is at .005 (?). I am going to make a appointment with my local bmw shop and tell them that I will strip all the plastic off so they just have to check and adjust the valve(s).

This is the first time that I changed my air and fuel filter, I am not going to tackle adjusting the valves and worry about what size buckets to get, let alone pulling the timing chain sprokets.

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post #20 of 29 Old May 19th, 2007, 2:04 pm
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I'm not sure it's worth the trouble of stripping the plastic off before taking it in for service. I have watched my dealer strip the plastic completely from an LT and it took him about ten minutes. Even at $85/hour that isn't much money. I agree though that some things just aren't worth doing yourself, especially if a man knows his limitations. I know mine and pay for valve checks/adjustments, brake fluid changes, etc. I even chickened out on pulling the gas tank for air and fuel filter replacements. I'll think about changing the radiator coolant next year, but we'll see.

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post #21 of 29 Old May 20th, 2007, 6:14 pm
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Glysantin G48

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post #22 of 29 Old May 20th, 2007, 7:33 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanMartin
How? The coolant needs to be diluted 50-50. it only holds 2.5 quarts.

dan
2.6 qt for the coolant circuit, but total capacity is 3.3 qt and the reserve tank is another 0.63 qt. Just a tick under a gallon when refilling the entire system.

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post #23 of 29 Old May 21st, 2007, 4:03 am
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2.6 qt for the coolant circuit, but total capacity is 3.3 qt and the reserve tank is another 0.63 qt. Just a tick under a gallon when refilling the entire system.
This is about how much I put in, just under a gallon including the reserve tank.

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post #24 of 29 Old May 6th, 2008, 6:53 am
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Re: coolent change

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackd
Well, looks like I need to drain a few quarts out...

I went and 'really' looked. I find I should have read the directions a little closer.. It said not to add anything else to the solution but reading more carefully it also said to add water to a 50/50 or 60/40 concentration...

Good thing I haven't been in any extreme weather.. yet...

I just love it when I make work for myself..
You probably should consider draining your undiluted anti-freeze and replace with 50-50. The 100% antifreeze will not transfer heat effectively.


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post #25 of 29 Old May 6th, 2008, 9:25 am
 
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Re: coolent change

Quote:
Originally Posted by was
No, there are no foolish questions, Al. Many people never change the coolant in their cars/trucks (although it usually is recommended by the manufacturer). The reasons that I do it on the LT include: 1) Corrosion inhibitors break down over time, and I don't want any corrosion anywhere in the cooling system. 2) The 50:50 recommended mixture of water and antifreeze will change over time, mostly due to condensation within the system, which means that the water will increase in proportion to the antifreeze. I live in the North and ride year round, so I want to make sure that I keep the proportions right. 3) New coolant is more efficient and effective in pulling heat from the engine and getting rid of it in the radiators than old coolant. 4) Coolant fluid gets dirty over time, and I want to flush out the crud before it has a chance to settle into some corner and begin blocking a passage.
I have not heard of many radiator failures on LTs, so this might be overkill. For me, changing the coolant is cheap insurance.
Good answer , was. Good coolant is VERY important to any watercooled engine. In modern engines there are varying types (silicate or non etc.) and some of these can indeed last for quite some time and not need changing. Remember the coolant in its mixture raises the boiling point of the water its mixed with and lowers the freezing point so in the extremes you dont have problems. Also remember it lubricates your water pump and keeps corrosion out of the system as mentioned. ALWAYS use only distilled water if you are going to mix your own - the various minerals that can be present in different water can be detrimental to your cooling system (corrosion buildup etc.)

There are test strips available to test whether your coolant is still doing its job that are very easy to use. You just dip them in the coolant and there are three different patches which will turn colors depending on the levels in the coolant and you can easily compare to the color guide to determine how good the coolant is - this is an inexpensive easy way to determine if and when you need a cooling system drain/flush.
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post #26 of 29 Old Jul 21st, 2008, 5:52 pm
 
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Re: coolent change

ok.....the maintenance book tells me to keep the level of the coolant between the lines on the overflow tank. when i top of this tank, it obviously ends up in the radiator, but where did they hide the radiator cap? and am i adding coolant properly? also, after a 2 day 500 mile (hot) ride, the level was down, is the normal? thanks in advance!!!!
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post #27 of 29 Old Jul 21st, 2008, 6:55 pm
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Re: coolent change

Quote:
Originally Posted by izzi_n_ami
ok.....the maintenance book tells me to keep the level of the coolant between the lines on the overflow tank. when i top of this tank, it obviously ends up in the radiator, but where did they hide the radiator cap? and am i adding coolant properly? also, after a 2 day 500 mile (hot) ride, the level was down, is the normal? thanks in advance!!!!
The cap is on top of the port radiator (shifter side). Just keep an eye on the level as it cools it will draw back from the overflow tank. Also you can get genuine BMW coolant from any BMW car dealer. It is the same stuff.

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post #28 of 29 Old Jul 21st, 2008, 8:28 pm
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Re: coolent change

Bought a gallon of BMW coolant at one of the local dealers --$19.25 + tax

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post #29 of 29 Old Jul 21st, 2008, 10:26 pm
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Re: coolent change

Went to the local dealer and found that like all things BMW, coolant is about half price and same formula at the Hardly dealer! Guess there good for sump'n!

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