Fuel Filter Relocation? - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 21 Old Jan 30th, 2007, 10:10 pm Thread Starter
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Fuel Filter Relocation?

Has anyone tried relocating the fuel filter outside the fuel tank? I am sure you will agree that BMW has put it in one heck of a place. I am in the process of doing the 24,000 mile checks and will be replacing the fuel filter. Big job. I am seriously thinking about relocating the filter outside the tank in the fuel pressure line to the injector rail. What are the issues here? Is it the fact the line is under pressure and could present sealing problems? The automotive industry has been using external filters on pressurized fuel lines for years without problems.

Has anyone done this before? What was the result? Am I missing something here?

The benefit of your wisdom and experience is needed.

Thanks
Austin S.
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post #2 of 21 Old Jan 30th, 2007, 10:23 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajs
Has anyone tried relocating the fuel filter outside the fuel tank? I am sure you will agree that BMW has put it in one heck of a place. I am in the process of doing the 24,000 mile checks and will be replacing the fuel filter. Big job. I am seriously thinking about relocating the filter outside the tank in the fuel pressure line to the injector rail. What are the issues here? Is it the fact the line is under pressure and could present sealing problems? The automotive industry has been using external filters on pressurized fuel lines for years without problems.

Has anyone done this before? What was the result? Am I missing something here?

The benefit of your wisdom and experience is needed.

Thanks
Austin S.
Yes, it has been done, but only by a couple of people.
Most of us don't see the big deal here. You have to remove the fuel tank to replace the air filter anyway, it is only 15-20 more minutes to replace the fuel filter during one of the air filter replacements, and every 24K is not very often for most, approx. yearly for the ones who ride all the time.

Yes, you can put it in the line TO the fuel rail, IF you can find a place to do so, as it is pretty darned crowded anywhere along that line.

One caveat: If you do decide to do it, be absolutely SURE you get a filter that is for a fuel injection system! Do not use one designed for a carbureted system! The high pressure of the fuel injection system, 50-60 PSI can rupture a filter made for carbureted pressures of 3-5 PSI.

Personally, the less connections in the high pressure fuel line outside the tank the better for me. Just less places to develop a high pressure fine spray leak, which can be nasty.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
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post #3 of 21 Old Jan 31st, 2007, 12:55 am
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I don't get the big job aspect of this. You have to pull the tank to replace the air filter, and getting the bike to that point is 90% of the battle. Once the tank's off it takes about another 10-15 minutes to replace the fuel filter, if that long. I would suggest leaving well enough alone and just replace it where it is.

Ahh, I see Mr. Shealey has the same advice (and is a much more credible source than I ever will be ). Listen to him; that man speaks the truth!

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post #4 of 21 Old Jan 31st, 2007, 7:44 am
 
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Tom Gallo (aka tmgs) relocated both the fuel and air filters. The advantages to that are obvious, and his methods were good. You may want to send him a PM or search his list of posts to see how he did it.

The new GT's filters are easy enough to change. Maybe the new LT will follow suit.
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post #5 of 21 Old Jan 31st, 2007, 8:19 am Thread Starter
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I agree, if the tank is removed to replace the air filter you are almost there and the rest is pretty simple. I have replaced the air filter and I did not have to remove the tank to do it. I removed all the tank mounting hardware, some electrical connections, and hoses, lifted and slid the tank back and raised the front of it enough to give me access to the air filter. I was able to rempve the old filter, (not all that dirty) vaccuum out the box and air ways and install the new filter. Mission accomplished on the air filter. The tank is now back in place although not completely fastened down.

I have studied the Clymer manual and the bike itself extensively for the fuel filter replacement and got to wondering wether it could be moved outside the tank. For me there are a number of reasons why I would want to do this; ease of access, possible future filter problems and the resultant trouble shooting, the obvious time/labor factors, handling the gasoline inside the tank and, in my opinion, the less the fuel pump and related parts are disturbed the better over the long run.

In my experience with in tank assemblies the only time you go inside the tank is when there is an internal problem with the pump or sending unit.

One of my concerns with moving the filter outside is the potential for high pressure leaks (as pointed out by dshealey) at the connections to the filter. This could possibly be overcome by using two gear clamps on each connection.

Another is wether a suitable replacement filter is available that will work properly with the fuel line pressure. (also pointed out by dshealey) I have a couple of aftermarket Russell high performance filters. They are aluminum with a screw off top and a reusable element that I believe is called a stone filter. It will certainly withstand the operating pressures, I am more concerned that it will filter out dirt adequately to meet the requirements of the injection system.

Another concern is the available space externally. (dshealey again) If I go this route that will be an important consideration that I haven't fully addressed yet. I am considering buying high pressure gas line hose from a local auto parts store that may permit some routing flexibility here.

As I wind this long story up, I would like to say when I first posted this I was looking for the wisdom and experience of LT owners on this wonderful site. I got the best, thanks dshealey.

Any additional comments would be appreciated.
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post #6 of 21 Old Jan 31st, 2007, 8:21 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
Tom Gallo (aka tmgs) relocated both the fuel and air filters. The advantages to that are obvious, and his methods were good. You may want to send him a PM or search his list of posts to see how he did it.

The new GT's filters are easy enough to change. Maybe the new LT will follow suit.
There's that GD GT again. We can only hope huh.
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post #7 of 21 Old Jan 31st, 2007, 9:15 am
 
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Originally Posted by ajs
There's that GD GT again. We can only hope huh.
No need for me to hope...I own a GT.

What I am hoping for is the END OF WINTER!!!
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post #8 of 21 Old Jan 31st, 2007, 10:18 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajs
dshealey/davidtaylor
---------------------
As I wind this long story up, I would like to say when I first posted this I was looking for the wisdom and experience of LT owners on this wonderful site. I got the best, thanks dshealey.

Any additional comments would be appreciated.
You are most welcome, and yes, there is likely not another motorcycle web group quite as good as this one. This site continues to amaze me with it's normal civility (very occasionally this is not true) and the amount of knowledge in so many different areas. Ask a question about anything, motorcycle or othewise, and you will likely get good answers.

Any 5/16 fuel injection hose from local auto supply stores will be fine. You may have to add a couple feet to the system to get to a suitable place to install an external filter. A machined aluminum filter as you described is certainly good enough for the pressure involved. The only question is the pore size of the filtering element. I would want it to be 5 micron or smaller for injector protection.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
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EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
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post #9 of 21 Old Feb 2nd, 2007, 3:43 pm
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Red face Yes, I have

I relocated the filter to under the driver's seat. Replacement is a 2 minute job at tops.

As to those that say it's no big deal in the stock position, well, they've apparently never gotten a dirty load of gas and needed to change the filter in the middle of nowhere, (in a hurry).

Actually, that brings up a couple of good questions: 1) how many of you have ever needed to change the filter while on the road and, 2) do you really feel that changing every 24,000 miles is good enough?

George (planning on changing a fuel filter on August 19th no matter how many miles are on the exisiting one) Barnes
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post #10 of 21 Old Feb 2nd, 2007, 3:55 pm
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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by GBarnes
------------George (planning on changing a fuel filter on August 19th no matter how many miles are on the exisiting one) Barnes
Why George? Going on a trip or something?

Good luck.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
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post #11 of 21 Old Feb 3rd, 2007, 2:36 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBarnes
I relocated the filter to under the driver's seat. Replacement is a 2 minute job at tops.

As to those that say it's no big deal in the stock position, well, they've apparently never gotten a dirty load of gas and needed to change the filter in the middle of nowhere, (in a hurry).

Actually, that brings up a couple of good questions: 1) how many of you have ever needed to change the filter while on the road and, 2) do you really feel that changing every 24,000 miles is good enough?

George (planning on changing a fuel filter on August 19th no matter how many miles are on the exisiting one) Barnes
Any chance of a photo and some more details. Sounds like a good idea to me and mine is due a change.
P.S. Enjoyed your website and several hours of reading your butt stories.
Good luck.

Mick
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post #12 of 21 Old Feb 3rd, 2007, 6:45 pm
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GBARNES

I'd like to see some more info too!! Pretty please!

Did you replace the filter (inside) with a piece of aluminum pipe or replace the whole hose with one a bit longer?
Did you wrap the filter, after you relocated it, in something.......foam?
Did you re-route the hose from the filter under the tank?

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post #13 of 21 Old Feb 4th, 2007, 9:06 am
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Smile Stock filter

Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
A machined aluminum filter as you described is certainly good enough for the pressure involved. The only question is the pore size of the filtering element. I would want it to be 5 micron or smaller for injector protection.
Good info why not use the stock filter and move it to the outside ?

Pete Murray
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post #14 of 21 Old Feb 4th, 2007, 9:41 am
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Here are 2 pics of the stock FF.
Perhaps George will tell us what he is using.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IBR   Stock Fuel filter 002.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	309.7 KB
ID:	9804   Click image for larger version

Name:	IBR   Stock Fuel filter 003.jpg
Views:	80
Size:	312.9 KB
ID:	9805  

Pete Murray
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2002 LT 171 K Gone
2008 FJR 36 K Gone
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post #15 of 21 Old Feb 4th, 2007, 10:34 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
You are most welcome, and yes, there is likely not another motorcycle web group quite as good as this one. This site continues to amaze me with it's normal civility (very occasionally this is not true) and the amount of knowledge in so many different areas. Ask a question about anything, motorcycle or othewise, and you will likely get good answers.

Any 5/16 fuel injection hose from local auto supply stores will be fine. You may have to add a couple feet to the system to get to a suitable place to install an external filter. A machined aluminum filter as you described is certainly good enough for the pressure involved. The only question is the pore size of the filtering element. I would want it to be 5 micron or smaller for injector protection.
The Russell is rated at 40 microns. The best I have been able to find for a filter designed for use in a fuel injected system is 60 microns.
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post #16 of 21 Old Feb 4th, 2007, 10:46 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murray
Here are 2 pics of the stock FF.
Perhaps George will tell us what he is using.
Thanks for the pictures, the first I've seen. I have been considering using an OEM externally but didn't know much about it's physical make-up. It would be interesting to know what the micron rating for it is and why BMW put it in the tank in the first place. As well, is the little plastic/nylon attachment on the bottom of the pix just a cover to keep contamination out or is it an intergal part of the fuel line connection as is the case with most injector systems used in the automotive industry.

Regards,
Austin S.
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post #17 of 21 Old Feb 4th, 2007, 9:25 pm
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Now if someone could relocate that #%$*! oil filter, I would be interested.

2002 K1200LTC Ocean Blue
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post #18 of 21 Old Feb 5th, 2007, 6:14 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajs
Thanks for the pictures, is the little plastic/nylon attachment on the bottom of the pix just a cover to keep contamination out
Regards,
Austin S.
Yes
Your Welcome..

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post #19 of 21 Old Feb 5th, 2007, 10:42 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajs
The Russell is rated at 40 microns. The best I have been able to find for a filter designed for use in a fuel injected system is 60 microns.
I was relying on my memory from diesel engine days. Diesels typically use a 3-10 micron filter, usually after a 60-100 micron pre-pump filter.

Too bad there are not Diesel secondary filters small enough.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
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EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
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post #20 of 21 Old Feb 5th, 2007, 8:42 pm
 
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Filter At 24,000?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GBarnes
I relocated the filter to under the driver's seat. Replacement is a 2 minute job at tops.

As to those that say it's no big deal in the stock position, well, they've apparently never gotten a dirty load of gas and needed to change the filter in the middle of nowhere, (in a hurry).

Actually, that brings up a couple of good questions: 1) how many of you have ever needed to change the filter while on the road and, 2) do you really feel that changing every 24,000 miles is good enough?

George (planning on changing a fuel filter on August 19th no matter how many miles are on the exisiting one) Barnes
1. I went 100k on an old Buick with one filter, about the same size. 2. A bad tank of gas can plug a filter at almost zero miles. My personal K12LT Pm schedule: One year unlimited miles (around 35k). I only change oil, filter and final drive oil at 6k.
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post #21 of 21 Old Feb 6th, 2007, 4:53 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PATTERSON
GBARNES

I'd like to see some more info too!! Pretty please!

Did you replace the filter (inside) with a piece of aluminum pipe or replace the whole hose with one a bit longer?
Did you wrap the filter, after you relocated it, in something.......foam?
Did you re-route the hose from the filter under the tank?
I'll try to snap some photos.

I used a piece of high pressure fuel line hose to replace the filter in the tank. I had the filter wrapped in a piece of inner tube for the first or second one, then, for some reason I don't remember, left it off. I routed hoses from under the tank, along the frame then up to the area under the seat. I use a stock OEM filter.

GB
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