90% done on upgrades - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 6 Old Jan 29th, 2007, 1:40 am Thread Starter
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Location: Gilbert, AZ, USA
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Talking 90% done on upgrades

Boy O' boy, spent Friday afternoon, night and Saturday morning tearing down the Red Dragon to do the slave cylinder repair. If you eliminated the stop time. It probably took me about 6-7 hrs from tear down to reassembly. The Dragon has 45900 miles on the clicker so upon removing the cylinder I found no, I mean NO, contaminating brake fluid in the cylinder body. pulled out the rod as well and it was dry as a bone. Yeeee Haaaa. Checked the tranie seal and it was dry. I did notice very small fine cracks in the seal. As I did not think to order one ahead of time, I did not replace the seal. I did not have a 4 ft cheater pipe, but I did have a 5 foot pipe with a flat earth tamper plate on the end. placed that on the breaker bar and just started pushing the bar up and down sort of bouncing the bar, then, BANG! socket fell off, but the nut came loose. Said to my self, that was easy. I did put a heat gun on the nut for about ten minuets before. Opposite side came loose just as easily.

I want to thank Dave Sealey for constructing the socket, allen wrench and drill bit. I want to thank all of the others that have taken the time to put down steps and photo's of the job, it made it much easier.

Today I installed the HID light. I decided to take the nose cone off just to learn what it intailed. Studied, other forum notes and found that it was very easy, finished buttoning up the tupper at about 6:45 pm tonight and fired it up. [and the lord said, "Let there be light"] The difference as you well know is night and day.

Of course just before I did the slave cylinder I installed my new brass quick disconnects. Took her out to fill up the tank and about a 20 mile ride to check out the clutch and the light.

This site is awesome! Thanks to all of you who have helped and gone the journey before me and reported "how to do it".

I am still having trouble with the cruse control staying on when I hit a hard bump or go over a bumpy fwy bridge. I will keep tinkering until I get it though.

Now all that is left to replace is the steering dampener. Which after replacing the front and rear shock should be an easy repair job. Thanks again guys.

Rob Asay
99 Canyon Red Lt
"The True Red Dragon"
1982 Honda "Silver Wing"
1986 Gold Wing Interstate "Blue Babe"
1978 Gold Wing
1976 Kawasaki 900
1967 Honda 305 Scrambler
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post #2 of 6 Old Jan 29th, 2007, 4:39 am
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Great job, Rob. Love to hear success stories like yours. Gotta feeling you'll find the cruise control culprit too. I'm sure you've researched the fairly common rear brakeline ferrule chewing into the speedo pulse line, just over the swing arm? Next time you hit a bump, check to see if the speedo needle jumps. If it does, good chance that's there is the problem. Easy fix, following Shealey's directions in the HoW.

Thanks for the post, Rob. Ride safe.
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post #3 of 6 Old Jan 29th, 2007, 6:37 am
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If you don't find anything that Dick pointed out you may be accidently tapping the rear brake with your foot when you hit a bump.

A friend of mine was always "braking" while going over train tracks and when I asked him why he denied it and after watching some more it was happening on hard bumps as well, sure enough his big ole boot was hitting the brake.


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Riding since '65 - 30+ bikes (lost count)
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post #4 of 6 Old Jan 29th, 2007, 11:06 am
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You have the cruise control troubleshooting guide, don't you? Shortly after I bought my LT the cruise control starting malfunctioning. It would turn itself off whenever I hit a hard bump. Since the bike was so new I took it back to the dealer. They made some pronouncement as to what the problem was, how quickly they figured it out and fixed it, and then sent me on my way. Well, I just needed to hit another hard bump for it to prove it wasn't fixed.

Long story short, the troubleshooting guide on this site is what I used to find the problem. In my case the microswitch on the clutch lever was the culprit. It was working mechanically but it wasn't adjusted properly. The BMW mechanics would only follow a diagnostic procedure using their computers, as they'd been trained to do. That wasn't telling them that the switch needed an adjustment though.

When I explained what I had done to diagnose the problem (being careful not to mention my resource), they took the bike back in and adjusted the switch. Things have been fine in the 4+ years since.

Likely, you'll perform the work yourself. But I wanted to mention the troubleshooting guide in case you haven't seen it yet. It'll make short work out of your diagnosis process.

Peter Tessin
2002 Champagne
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post #5 of 6 Old Jan 29th, 2007, 12:12 pm
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Just in case you don't have the cruise control diagnostic procedure handy, here is one location you'll find it. Several threads in the past have discussed the *feature*. Good luck, Rob.
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post #6 of 6 Old Jan 30th, 2007, 12:01 am Thread Starter
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Location: Gilbert, AZ, USA
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Your help

Dick, Pete and Dronning thanks for the input. I thought that it might be my foot hitting the brake pedal, or even a loose clutch handle or front break handle issue. But since this is happening after new cable replacements and I can do small adjustments to the throttle adjustment gap at the throttle and it will cause the CC to not work at all. I think that it may be an adjustment. Your suggestion of the worn cable by the brake line Dick is a good idea to check. Forgot all about that spot. I have noticed that the speedo does sometimes seem to jump. I will use the link also to check out the cruse. Thanks again all for the help and I am sure enjoying the new head light.

Rob Asay
99 Canyon Red Lt
"The True Red Dragon"
1982 Honda "Silver Wing"
1986 Gold Wing Interstate "Blue Babe"
1978 Gold Wing
1976 Kawasaki 900
1967 Honda 305 Scrambler
robasay is offline  

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