After putting everything except the Tupperware back on I started the bike and the idle still kept creeping up to 1,400 rpm. I decided to remove the throttle body and bench test the TPS according to Sailor’s instructions. Here are the results. First, I removed the TVA from the throttle body rail. Testing between pins 1 and 2 yielded resistance of 1,465 ohms with throttle closed and 805 ohms at approximately 23 degrees open. Both readings are well outside of the acceptable range in Sailor’s procedure. Next, testing between pins 2 and 3 yielded 960 ohms at full throttle and 1,680 ohms at approximately 23 degrees open. Again, both readings are outside the acceptable range. Last, testing between pins 2 and 4 yielded 705 ohms throughout the throttle range. As with the other two tests, this reading is outside the acceptable range.
Now what’s the next step? Mark the present location of the TPS, then loosen the screws and rotate the TPS to where the ohm readings are within the acceptable range? Buying a GS-911 is not realistic right now and I don’t know anyone close to me who has one.
The PDF file includes the OHMS reading so that a quick / check compare could be done in a static manner WITH IGNITION OFF (no power applied to TPS so no risk to damage something).
In such variable resistor, the OHMS checks across the full range allows to see if either resistance track are skipping values (a bad contact while turning TPS).
I would not worry with these lower OHMS values until we have further VOLTs tests:
Most of my test were done on the K1200RS engine , however there is some evidences that many K1200LT came with a higher TPS voltage at idle from factory (meaning a lower resistance at idle stop). BMW never documented any of this, BUT these facts came out while I compared the base TPS setting or K1200RS -vs- K1200LT using a GS911.
In your case, 1465 mentionned above is a bit too low and should create a TPS voltage that is too high (more on this below).
As explained in the document - as best I could - the IMPORTANT tests are the ones with the Voltmeter. This is located in next docment section following the OHMS checks. One has to be CARFULL as these Volts tests are important BUT they are also done live with ignition ON - using temp wires. For example if you short the temp wire coming out of Pin #1 on TPS by touching something metalic on frame you could damage the ECU unit.
Although not modified in my document, on a K1200LT, even you see as much as 0.41 volts at idle stop (instead of 0.33 to 0.38), I would NOT move/change the TPS . If you need to lower the TPS voltage (target is 0.38 to 0.40 for a K1200LT) rotate the TPS clockwise as seen if you looked at the Throttle/TPS assy from the rear of the bike.
If you find it is already acceptable (from 0.36 tp 0.41 volts) THEN you would need to further your investigation into OTHER "potential" causes:
1) the blue painted screws have been tampered with (these TPS values assumes the butterfly position are set at factory and not touched later)
2) there might still be some intake air-leaks
3) the TVA is defective or incorrectly set (this can be checked "indirectly" by starting warm without a TVA bolted)
4) The engine coolant sensor located on the rear-most cylinder-head is giving false data to the ECU. We have seen some cases were the ECU "was being told" the engine was still cold (when in fact it was not). In such case, the ECU continues to keep the idle high until it sees the engine warmer. Of course that wrong data feedback can go on for a long time in some isolated failure of the sensor.
I did a very brief photo album tutorial for checking the static values of the engine coolant sensor (engine OFF, engine warmed up or cold) - try either links in case the 1st one will not work for you - IMPORTANT to click on each photo to read attached notes that show up below OR on right of photo.
Once the engine is warning up, you can stop it (ignition OFF) and take another reading at the sensor wires unplugged: for each 10 degrees (F) higher in coolant temp, the resistance goes goes down - fast at first, then slower (graph is a curve). From 2500 Ohms at 70 deg (F) to about 260 Ohms when in normal "middle range" on dash gauge.
IMPORTANT: if you forget to plug it back and turn ignition ON while the Engine Coolant is still disconnected, you will hear both radiator fans run full time - this a "failed safe mode" of the ECU when it cannot read a proper engine coolant temp.