That is a nice rotor, I have one on the LT and the 1300GT.
The point where you usually get a vibration in the body panels is where the upper and lower parts meet at the very front (lower overlaps upper). I just stick a thin piece of rubber insulation in the gap and that keeps her quiet.
It is a softer metal so those pads will tear up the rotor much more quickly. Who recommended those pads and did you see the warning that was included in my packaging when I bought the EBC rear rotor?
Yea. Did the EBC conversion a few years back. Sooo nice. Mine not only had the cow bell. Mine got to a point where if you got on the rear brakes it was actually making a shuddering groan sound. I also screwed my mirrors in. Lost one at high speed (the tether broke as i went to grab it) It had a Muth signal mirror too. That really hurt to watch.
I've had the HH pads on my EBC rear rotor for over 150,000 miles now. The new spec. is 7.0 mm or .275.6" the min thickness is 6.5 mm or .256". I just measured my EBC rotor & it is at 6.7 mm or .264". I prefer the extra stopping power of the HH pads even if it wears the rotor a little faster.
This came up in another topic, and does seem to create confusion. I don't remember seeing such a notice in the packaging when I received my EBC rotor. I used the HH sintered pads because that's what's is advertised the most on this forum. Later, found out about how much 'softer' these rotors are. I'm using the HH pads for now. Not overly concerned about it and I do like the stopping power.
I would use high temp RTV instead. I think something that stays more flexible than Loctite will work better. The Loctite is very likely to crack under the thermally induced stress and not work for long.
Read the note that came with the rotor.
Said “fully sintered pads are absolutely ruled out”.
Only organic or the new V line of pads for heavy bikes. Said to buy F304V.
Semi-sintered.
For what it’s worth here are three pics of a new rotor and pads and the notice in the rotor box where it highlights the pads recommended for this EBC rotor. I purchased these items shown in the pics as they where shown in Kirk Johnson’s videos. If Kirk says they are OK that’s fine by me. Kirk rides and repairs a million times more than I do. Hope this clears some stuff for people. You will pay extra for the hardened stainless steel rotor but personally for the mileage I do it’s not worth it and like Saddleman said the braking efficiency is of greater value than the purchase of a second rotor. In all honesty my opinion use the brakes less and the engine and gearbox more. Plan your stopping don’t rely on your brakes all the time. My only problem I have is, this rotor did not come with replacement screws either for the ABS ring retainment or fitting to the drive hub and so have to try and figure out the sizes and where I can get them before I remove the old unit. Bike is currently stripped down waiting on new brake lines to show up.
I followed the links from the message you linked us to (If you get my drift) the two pages of information don’t even agree with each other so maybe EBC is a fault for the confusion. It says all MD series rotors can use any type of brake pad, but the billet steel Only use the V-pad. Defo a brain teaser.
I have been talking with the brake expert that is making up my hoses at HEL Performance. He said the sintered brake pads are needed for racing but regular guys like us don’t need them for regular road use. They also take longe to warm up. They are used for racing because normal organic ones wouldn’t last on the hard braking done in racing and so could cause accidents. Either way I’m keeping the ones I bought and will see how it all pans out. If it costs me another rotor so be it but I will be on the phone to EBC if eta does happen for clarification in their literature.
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