BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

Rear Brake Rotor replacement

2K views 25 replies 8 participants last post by  Voyager 
#1 ·
No more cowbell.
Installed an EBC brake rotor.
Mine was in good shape but the noise was unbearable.

Also changed the final drive oil.
Came out looking almost new after two years.
No metal filings.

Now onto general maintenance.
There’s a fairing rattle below 2,000 rpm that drives me insane.

And have to find a good solution for the mirrors.

Today was a productive day.

The tire already had a 2mm spacer fitted. So, no need for the second one and the 170 marathon tire didn’t rub.

Also installed new EBC brake pads.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
See less See more
3
  • Like
Reactions: Mark65
#2 ·
That is a nice rotor, I have one on the LT and the 1300GT.

The point where you usually get a vibration in the body panels is where the upper and lower parts meet at the very front (lower overlaps upper). I just stick a thin piece of rubber insulation in the gap and that keeps her quiet.
 
#3 ·
Thank you!

I’ll try that tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#4 ·
Mirrors are secured.
Used an aluminum screw that will shear off.

Looks good to me.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#5 ·
For good measure and being today my 45th birthday , decided to give the big girl some love.

Check this out.

Before.


After



Also did the rotors and every other rusted fastener.


I took me about 5 hours to properly clean those rotor bobbins.

Tomorrow oil change and more love.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#7 ·
Bought it with the recommended EBC brake pads.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#9 ·
It is a softer metal so those pads will tear up the rotor much more quickly. Who recommended those pads and did you see the warning that was included in my packaging when I bought the EBC rear rotor?
 
#8 ·
Yea. Did the EBC conversion a few years back. Sooo nice. Mine not only had the cow bell. Mine got to a point where if you got on the rear brakes it was actually making a shuddering groan sound. I also screwed my mirrors in. Lost one at high speed (the tether broke as i went to grab it) It had a Muth signal mirror too. That really hurt to watch.
 
#10 ·
I've had the HH pads on my EBC rear rotor for over 150,000 miles now. The new spec. is 7.0 mm or .275.6" the min thickness is 6.5 mm or .256". I just measured my EBC rotor & it is at 6.7 mm or .264". I prefer the extra stopping power of the HH pads even if it wears the rotor a little faster.
 
#12 ·
My LT has 28K miles...
The rear rotor was practically unused.
I might have a solution for the cowbell and that I’ll test.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#14 ·
This came up in another topic, and does seem to create confusion. I don't remember seeing such a notice in the packaging when I received my EBC rotor. I used the HH sintered pads because that's what's is advertised the most on this forum. Later, found out about how much 'softer' these rotors are. I'm using the HH pads for now. Not overly concerned about it and I do like the stopping power.

https://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/56485-ebc-pads-rotor.html#post1930361
 
#15 ·
I will put some Loctite 242 thread locker in the old rotor. In the bobbins.
That should take care of the freaking cowbell.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#16 ·
I would use high temp RTV instead. I think something that stays more flexible than Loctite will work better. The Loctite is very likely to crack under the thermally induced stress and not work for long.
 
#17 ·
Are these the brake pads I’m supposed to buy?


2002-04 R 1200 CL 1997-09 K 1200 LT Fits for BMW Rear Organic Brake Pads EBC FA304 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084MJF42J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_738EEbMEB1SH5

I saw the warning on the EBC brake.
FA304 Organic.
The ones I got were FA304HH double sintered.
Their brake bite is pretty awesome. Grabby.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#19 ·
#20 ·
It’s in Miami. Should get to customs this week and next week I should have it and install it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#21 ·
In customs in MGA.
Though I do like the bite and stopping power of the sintered pads.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#22 · (Edited)
For what it’s worth here are three pics of a new rotor and pads and the notice in the rotor box where it highlights the pads recommended for this EBC rotor. I purchased these items shown in the pics as they where shown in Kirk Johnson’s videos. If Kirk says they are OK that’s fine by me. Kirk rides and repairs a million times more than I do. Hope this clears some stuff for people. You will pay extra for the hardened stainless steel rotor but personally for the mileage I do it’s not worth it and like Saddleman said the braking efficiency is of greater value than the purchase of a second rotor. In all honesty my opinion use the brakes less and the engine and gearbox more. Plan your stopping don’t rely on your brakes all the time. My only problem I have is, this rotor did not come with replacement screws either for the ABS ring retainment or fitting to the drive hub and so have to try and figure out the sizes and where I can get them before I remove the old unit. Bike is currently stripped down waiting on new brake lines to show up.
 

Attachments

#23 ·
I followed the links from the message you linked us to (If you get my drift) the two pages of information don’t even agree with each other so maybe EBC is a fault for the confusion. It says all MD series rotors can use any type of brake pad, but the billet steel Only use the V-pad. Defo a brain teaser.
 
#25 ·
I have been talking with the brake expert that is making up my hoses at HEL Performance. He said the sintered brake pads are needed for racing but regular guys like us don’t need them for regular road use. They also take longe to warm up. They are used for racing because normal organic ones wouldn’t last on the hard braking done in racing and so could cause accidents. Either way I’m keeping the ones I bought and will see how it all pans out. If it costs me another rotor so be it but I will be on the phone to EBC if eta does happen for clarification in their literature.
 
#26 ·
Your brake expert is very wise and well-informed.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top