2005 K1200LT - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 178 Old Mar 12th, 2020, 9:16 am Thread Starter
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2005 K1200LT

I am negotiating on this bike. It seems flawless on the cosmetic side. It has 77,000 km or 50,000 miles. I know very little about these bikes, other than they get great ride-ability reviews from owners. The price is $2700 but the catch is the bike will not start. Sat since 2016. Turns over when jump started on the dead battery. I wonder if this is just a bad fuel issue. I am trying to get service records, but current owner bought from an estate sale and never rode this bike. Are there any particular concerns I should be aware of? Thanks for any comments and help.
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post #2 of 178 Old Mar 12th, 2020, 10:23 am
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

Hi and welcome. Lots to look out for on these bikes but this is absolutely the best forum for answers and friendly conversation. My personal opinion is that I would look around for a bike that hasn't sat for so long since it's something you're not familiar with. For twice the price and less you can get a bike that you know runs, has upgrades and probably fewer miles. I know of two in my area right now. Great bikes. I really enjoy mine. Good luck with your search.
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post #3 of 178 Old Mar 12th, 2020, 11:07 am
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

50K is not a lot of miles so that isn't anything to worry about. If you do your own wrenching and are a fair mechanic, I am sure with the help of this forum and a Clymer manual you could get it running again. If you have to rely on someone else to work on it, if you don't have deep pockets, it may not be the bike for you. They are great bikes to ride and I love mine. It is likely a fuel issue if it cranks and there are a couple things to look for.

First, do you hear the fuel pump run? key on and ear on the right faring, you should hear it run for a few seconds, then stop. This can be repeated by cycling the kill switch on the right handlebar. You should hear it run for 2 to 3 seconds to prime the fuel rail. If not, then you have a fuel pump issue to resolve. There are no sensors in the fuel system so even if you hear it running, that doesn't mean fuel is getting to the injectors. If it does run, then open the tank and look in with a good flashlight and repeat the fuel pump prime with the kill switch looking for any large disturbance or spraying fuel inside the tank. This would indicate a blown rubber line inside the tank and will keep the bike from starting. If neither of those things appear to be the issue, then purging the fuel system of old fuel and trying again might do it. The fuel regulator will allow fuel to cycle through the rail once new fuel is in the tank by doing the pump prime maybe 10 or 15 times. If none of that gets it going, it will take some in depth troubleshooting to figure out why it isn't starting. There have been several instances of varmints crawling up and chewing on the wiring harness and that too can be fixed should it be the case but requires significant disassembly to inspect.

$2700 for a running 05 would be a decent price but there are likely some maintenance items that would need to be looked at immediately like brake line replacement.

Let us know if you get it and we will help you get it running.
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Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #4 of 178 Old Mar 12th, 2020, 11:55 pm Thread Starter
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I just bought this bike tonight, so my adventure begins now I guess. I can do my own wrenching for the most part. I just liked the bike and I have the sense that the previous owner, who was an elderly ex policeman, looked after this bike well. I bought it from someone who had no real interest in the bike, but he has owned it for just one year and never rode it.

I will get a new battery in it and start to play around.

I hope there is nothing crazy wrong.

Thanks for the comments. I am sure to ask a bunch of silly questions as I learn this bike.
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post #5 of 178 Old Mar 12th, 2020, 11:56 pm Thread Starter
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Can this bike display km/h instead of mph?
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post #6 of 178 Old Mar 13th, 2020, 3:12 am
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

I owned a 2005 K1200LT for seven years - great bike - enjoy. There are some issues, like any bike, but this forum's 'experts' will give you the details. Best of luck.

Chris
2019 BMW K1600B Grand America (2020 - ) / 2008 Honda Goldwing (2018-2020) / 2005 BMW K1200LT (2012-2018) / 2004 BMW R1150RT (2010-2012) / 1998 BMW R1200c (2007-2010)
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post #7 of 178 Old Mar 13th, 2020, 9:24 am
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

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Originally Posted by David Yerema View Post
Can this bike display km/h instead of mph?
If it is one built for the US market it will not display KM/h. I had one and even though I lived in metric land (Canada) the bike had been bought in the US so it only displayed mph. If you are talking about the speedometer itself, I believe there are metric readings displayed on the dial, in smaller print, so you would know what the needle is pointing at; i.e., when dial is at 60 mph, the metric reading is a bit past 100 km p/h. Not sure if this is what you were asking or not.


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post #8 of 178 Old Mar 13th, 2020, 9:34 am
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

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Originally Posted by David Yerema View Post
I just bought this bike tonight, so my adventure begins now I guess. I can do my own wrenching for the most part. I just liked the bike and I have the sense that the previous owner, who was an elderly ex policeman, looked after this bike well. I bought it from someone who had no real interest in the bike, but he has owned it for just one year and never rode it.

I will get a new battery in it and start to play around.

I hope there is nothing crazy wrong.

Thanks for the comments. I am sure to ask a bunch of silly questions as I learn this bike.
I had one and I loved the bike, but there were issues with the clutch. If memory serves me correctly it had something to do with oil getting on the clutch, or something like that, and people had to drill a "weep hole" to eliminate this. I bought mine 2nd hand and it seemed fine, but just after I bought it the clutch started slipping and I had the dealer check it out and had to have a new clutch put in and possibly some other things, I can't remember. It was expensive, but can't remember how much. You might want to search for old threads on that. Sorry my memory isn't better.


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post #9 of 178 Old Mar 13th, 2020, 1:15 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

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Can this bike display km/h instead of mph?
If the dash looks like this, then no. You would have to change out the entire dash assembly.
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John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #10 of 178 Old Mar 13th, 2020, 1:55 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

Follow what Gordon told you. You can pull the full pump w/o having to remove the tank.
Worst that can happen is that the fuel pressure regulator is clogged and you have to remove the fuel tank to git to it. Might want to replace the air filter if you have to go that deep.

_____________

Kim Thomson
Motorcycle Cigar Smoker
05 K1200LT - The Golden Rocket Ship
91 K100RS - The White Stallion
85 K100 Standard - Big Red
79 R65 - "The Bee" is a buzzin' again!
06 525i - Premium, Sport, Comfort, Xenons
01 E320 4matic

Gone, but not forgotten...
02 K1200LTC - Big Blue (accident at 40k)
88 K100RT - Chocolate (it was brown, melted - fire)
85 K100RT - (wore out)
82 Yamaha Vision - (electrics)
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post #11 of 178 Old Mar 13th, 2020, 5:15 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

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I will get a new battery in it and start to play around.

I hope there is nothing crazy wrong.

Thanks for the comments. I am sure to ask a bunch of silly questions as I learn this bike.
Just be aware that the starter relay has a circuit in it that prevents the starter from cranking the engine if the battery is low. I believe 11.5 volts with the key on it will not crank. Just keep that in mind once you find the fuel related issue in case it will not crank.
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post #12 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 12:26 am Thread Starter
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Battery installed. Cranks over but not firing up. Tomorrow I will drain the fuel. It smells off and is possibly from 2016.
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post #13 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 9:05 am
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

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Battery installed. Cranks over but not firing up. Tomorrow I will drain the fuel. It smells off and is possibly from 2016.
It probably wouldn't hurt to put some good quality fuel system cleaner in with your first tank of fresh fuel.
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post #14 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 9:30 am Thread Starter
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Fuel system cleaner is a good idea. I will do that.

Currently, it is snowing because Spring has not fully sprung in Canada and I have this bike parked in my front entrance of our house. My wife not so pleased but I thought a great place to diagnose.

I will roll the bike outside so I can turn it over well.

Is there any “throttle three times or a choke or it won’t start on the side stand” or anything else that will make it not start?
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post #15 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 9:49 am
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

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Originally Posted by David Yerema View Post
Fuel system cleaner is a good idea. I will do that.

Currently, it is snowing because Spring has not fully sprung in Canada and I have this bike parked in my front entrance of our house. My wife not so pleased but I thought a great place to diagnose.

I will roll the bike outside so I can turn it over well.

Is there any “throttle three times or a choke or it won’t start on the side stand” or anything else that will make it not start?
It is a fully automatic electronic fuel injection system. If everything is working right, you should not need to touch the throttle to start it, just push the button and it should start and idle.


There is a reset procedure you can do if the battery has been off for a long time. It helps the motronic relearn the idle position.
Turn the key on but do not start.
rotate the throttle form 0 to full and then release to 0
repeat that process 3 times
key off
then turn key on and push start but this will not keep the bike form starting so once you get the other sorted if it doesn't idle correctly at first start, then you may try that. Sometimes it does take riding it for a while for it to re-learn the idle position though after a dead battery or replacement.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #16 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 11:22 am Thread Starter
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Is the the fuel priming sound the only sound when the key is turned?
I ask because I have a brief 1 second (ish) whine/whirring sound when I turn the key to on. I think this is the fuel priming sound.
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post #17 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 11:27 am Thread Starter
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I have a video of key turning on and sounds if anyone can accept a transfer and listen to this.
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post #18 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 1:04 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

Use the kill switch with the key on. You should hear the whirring for a second or two each time you turn it on. It is a time based thing and not a pressure thing so it will run every time whether there is pressure in the line or not. If you hear it, look in the tank to see if there is a disturbance or spray. The fuel may move a little as if no busted hoses as the return from the regulator comes in at the bottom but that is not much disturbance. Having a half tank would make seeing a leak easier as the hoses would be above the fuel level.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #19 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 2:26 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

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Originally Posted by David Yerema View Post
Is the the fuel priming sound the only sound when the key is turned?
I ask because I have a brief 1 second (ish) whine/whirring sound when I turn the key to on. I think this is the fuel priming sound.

Is there any “throttle three times or a choke or it won’t start on the side stand” or anything else that will make it not start?
Best to use the kill switch after you turn on the key to listen for the fuel pump as Gordon said. The iABS unit also cycles the servos at key on as a self test and the noise will cover the fuel pump sounds.

All the safety interlocks that prevent the engine from starting are all tied to the starter. So if the engine is turning over they are not a factor. Even the immobilizer in the alarm kills both the engine electronics relay and the starter.
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2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #20 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 4:20 pm Thread Starter
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Using this “kill switch method”, I know that what I thought was the primer...is not. But I did manage to hear the much more subtle sound of the primer pump.

I also did find a blown fuel fuse. Replaced it and nothing changed. And then blew another fuel fuse (10a on this 2005). And now this fuse seems to not blow, but still no start.

I am attempting this on the side stand with bike in neutral.
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post #21 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 4:34 pm Thread Starter
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And, I think the tank should have 10litres of fuel because I pumped it (dry I think) and only added 10l of fuel treated with sea foam.

I cannot see any excessive movement of the fuel in the tank.

Given that I found one and then blew another fuel fuse, I suspect I have a bad pump BUT I am concerned because the fuse clearly doesn’t blow reliably, do that makes me wonder why that might be.

Is is the fuel pump that is responsible for priming the fuel rail? If so, the pump should be good.

Is there a relay that somehow interrupts between the priming if the rail and the fuel pump working? If so, whatever that is. Might not be reliable.
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post #22 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 4:50 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

The fuel pump is responsible for priming the rail. It turns on for a few seconds and then if the engine is not turning, it shuts off the pump. This is a safety feature so the pump does not continue to run in an accident that may cause a ruptured fuel line and drain the tank on the spot if the key is on.

What fuses did you blow. If it is blowing fuses, something needs to be looked at.
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2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #23 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 6:37 pm Thread Starter
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The fuse was the number 3 in box 2. Fuel pump being one of the things powered by it.
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post #24 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 6:41 pm Thread Starter
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I guess the pre priming sound doesn’t mean the fuel pump works.

I guess the next thing is to pull a spark plug to check for fuel?
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post #25 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 6:42 pm Thread Starter
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The fuse was blown, replaced, it blew again; and then replaced and not blown again.
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post #26 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 7:25 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

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The fuse was blown, replaced, it blew again; and then replaced and not blown again.
You are going to have to get into it a bit deeper to diagnois what is going on. Have you undresses her at all yet? This can be a task all unto itself with lots of screws of different lengths and some hidden under things.

Quick question, when it was sitting idle, where was it kept? Could a mouse have gotten in and set up housekeeping somewhere? have you ordered or gotten a Clymer manual yet?

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #27 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 7:47 pm Thread Starter
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I have a generic K1200lt manual in PDF from bmw. Not great detail.

I have the right side naked and I have confirmed with electrical meter: power to pump for priming is happening (2seconds). Power to pump is constant when starter is engaged.

My plan is to strip the left side and assess a spark plug for fuel.

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post #28 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 7:48 pm Thread Starter
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I believe where it was kept could have allowed critters to move in, but I don’t see any evidence of that.
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post #29 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 7:52 pm Thread Starter
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I assume the pump can make motions and still not be effective?

What would the rail be pressurized to? Is this something I can test?
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post #30 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 8:01 pm Thread Starter
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...and I just ordered the Clymer manual as well. It seems like a necessary purchase.
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post #31 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 8:11 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

Most who have had Minok chewing on the power cables had no idea until they pulled the fuel tank and got a look at the wiring harness. Not saying this has happened but at least you need to get into it and start diagnosing things like the fuel pump to start with. If you have straight hose connectors between the pump and the tank, inserting a fuel pressure gauge is much easier than with quick disconnects unless you have a spare set of quick disconnects but a fuel pressure test would be in order. The pump may be shot and blowing fuses but there is not much way to test it if it is partially working other than to replace it. The fuel filter could be clogged with water as the E10 can separate over time and the alcohol is hygroscopic and will take on water separating and will clog the filter in a minute. The hoses will be clamped with Oetiker clamps ( one time use) at the pump but they can be removed and other hoses put on to test the pump output. Be aware, one of the lines on the bottom of the pump is open to the inside for fuel return and if you remove that, it will drain right out so either drain before hand or have a bucket ready. The pump side is OK to remove and won't leak much from inside the tank. It is a constant flow pump and will create pressure in excess of 50PSI so make sure if you dead end it with a pressure gauge that the clamps are tight. 50PSI is the working pressure of the system.
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2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #32 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 10:01 pm Thread Starter
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And another update:

Spark plugs seem wet with shitty fuel. They were quite gummed up. I cleaned them and tested each one. They all sparked nicely on external test.

Now I know spark is good.

The only two options I can envision now:

1 the pump is not pumping strong enough; or
2 the pump is pumping bad fuel that won’t burn.
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post #33 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 10:16 pm Thread Starter
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I have the original plastic quick disconnects so I will changing those out.

I will also do the brake line switch to steel braided lines, as I will have it ripped naked anyway. Might as well.

Thank you for all your help with this old gal.
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post #34 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 10:18 pm Thread Starter
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And this is where I am at now. (But tomorrow, I must vacate our house before my wife stops loving me)
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post #35 of 178 Old Mar 14th, 2020, 10:26 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

You probably still have some old fuel in the lines and injector rail. Could uncouple the return disconnect and cycle the pump a few times, you will have to open the fitting on the bike's side of the return line. If it looks like the one in the "pressure" side of the pump, you can just hold the white ring in to open it. That way you could flush out the fuel rail.

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2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #36 of 178 Old Mar 15th, 2020, 9:08 am Thread Starter
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Jzeiler: can you tell which one of these I should break and run the pump.
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post #37 of 178 Old Mar 15th, 2020, 9:10 am Thread Starter
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Also gentlemen, do you think I should clean the injectors. If the plugs were that gummed up, perhaps the injectors would benefit from a good cleaning?
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post #38 of 178 Old Mar 15th, 2020, 12:57 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

If you are anywhere in the US... Mr. Injector does a great job testing, analysis, and cleaning... replacing o-rings, etc., quick turn around, too! https://www.mrinjector.us

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post #39 of 178 Old Mar 15th, 2020, 1:51 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

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If you are anywhere in the US... Mr. Injector does a great job testing, analysis, and cleaning... replacing o-rings, etc., quick turn around, too! https://www.mrinjector.us
I think he said he was in Canada hence the question about converting the spedo to kilometers rather than miles.
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Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #40 of 178 Old Mar 15th, 2020, 4:22 pm Thread Starter
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Yes. I am in Canada. I also would like to clean the injectors myself. If I am going to rip this bike down to the engine, I might as well learn some things along the way.

If anyone has advice on cleaning the injectors, I am keen to read your wisdom.

Thank you to all of you helping me learn.
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post #41 of 178 Old Mar 15th, 2020, 4:26 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Yerema View Post
Jzeiler: can you tell which one of these I should break and run the pump.
The outboard one that you have your finger on. That is the return line.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #42 of 178 Old Mar 15th, 2020, 4:45 pm Thread Starter
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Jzeiler. Thank you. I will spilt that connection and pump out the lines and fuel rail.

Do Those quick connectors need to be replaced? I think they are plastic but they are not the white plastic that I thought were inherently bad.
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post #43 of 178 Old Mar 15th, 2020, 4:49 pm Thread Starter
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Given the multi angles and corners of the LT gas tank, is the only true way to drain it, removing it?

Or could I use the fuel pump and return line into a bucket?

Can I run 12v direct to the fuel pump via the electrical quick connect?

(I know...lots of questions, but I am keen to get this bike on the road...and out of the house)
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post #44 of 178 Old Mar 15th, 2020, 7:53 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

Yes, if you can find a way, running 12V directly to the pump will make it run but doing this inside your home is not recommended. An alternate would be to use the return side of the tank and just open the QD by doing what JZ said, depressing the white collar to open the valve. I believe the one you had your finger on was directly to the bottom of the tank so most of the fuel will drain through that hose hopefully not into your living room.


Personally, I usually siphon it out using the two hose method. One long one to the bottom of the tank and into a can large enough to hold the sum lower than the bottom of the tank and a short one to cup my hand over the filler hole and blow forcing the fuel to go out into the can. An air compressor can also be used carefully to do the same thing.

Don't worry about the questions, if you do some searches, you will likely find some you think sillier than yours but we try and answer them all as no one knows everything except maybe John Zeiler and a couple others but there are those here who know more about a specific part and they will chime in to fill the gaps so ask away. We will do our best to get you up to speed on your new bike.

As for the plastic QD's, yes, they need to be replaced as they are nothing but trouble. The male end is really what needs to be replaced as that is the part that cracks and leaks but if you spend the money to get the two total metal replacements, why not just do both sides, just make sure you put them on in a manor that they can't be connected improperly. Look at what you have now and notice that they only go together one way and the ends of the QD's are swapped between the pressure and return lines. Best to do one line at a time duplicating what you have. The answers may sound simplistic to some but it is only because people have done it wrong before and we try to head them off at the pass. It is always good to apply a little oil to the o-rings on the QD's to protect them when putting them together.

If you try and drain your tank inside the house, let us know how that goes and if you are still married when done She will really love that bike.
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Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #45 of 178 Old Mar 18th, 2020, 10:36 pm Thread Starter
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Tank is drained! Still married (tank was drained outside, but my wife cleaned up my plywood in the entranceway to get ready for me to put the bike back inside—which I am not doing).

Fuel was twice as much as I expected, so I did not do well when I pumped the tank out.

Tank is dry. Pump looks reasonably ok, but I have not bench tested. Fuel looked bad.
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post #46 of 178 Old Mar 19th, 2020, 3:36 am
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Yerema View Post
Tank is drained! Still married (tank was drained outside, but my wife cleaned up my plywood in the entranceway to get ready for me to put the bike back inside—which I am not doing).

Fuel was twice as much as I expected, so I did not do well when I pumped the tank out.

Tank is dry. Pump looks reasonably ok, but I have not bench tested. Fuel looked bad.
You might find that the fuel filter could also be full of the same crap that is coating the outside of the pump assembly. That E10 really is a con. It destroys your fuel system and doesn't get you as far as standard fuel. I recently removed my fuel pump and it was as clean as the day it was assembled. I don't know what the previous owner of my bike used but I only ever use premium fuel.
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post #47 of 178 Old Mar 19th, 2020, 10:25 am
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

That will buff right out...

You may be able to salvage the pump and clean the mounting plate up. I would also search ebay for a used one in better condition. But at best you will need new hoses and a fuel filter at a minimum so a used unit may be cheaper.

I had no luck on ebay save a new flange for $400! There have been a few bike owners here that have parted out their bikes, may try a search and see what is left.
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John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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Last edited by jzeiler; Mar 19th, 2020 at 10:39 am.
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post #48 of 178 Old Mar 19th, 2020, 4:47 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

John is right, that should clean up OK. I have seen much worse. A few things I am going to list here as you go along with the clean up in case you find them bad.

Fuel pump
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuel Filter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nylon fuel line replacement
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All of those are currently on my pump assembly so should you want to just rebuild it, those are the parts you would need to pick from. I prefer the nylon fuel line to the rubber submersible as it isn't subject to ethanol paralysis over time. One of the two supplied lines is enough to do the job as you would cut off most of both ends of one leaving a long enough straight piece for the short straight link filter to pump. Or you could go with the rubber molded for OEM ones listed below from the MAX BMW site. Much more expensive.

16 14 2 305 760 FUEL HOSE 0.02 1 $32.33 Straight
16 14 2 325 808 HOSE 0.03 1 $49.15 Curved
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Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #49 of 178 Old Mar 19th, 2020, 5:25 pm
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Re: 2005 K1200LT

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Yerema View Post
Tank is drained! Still married (tank was drained outside, but my wife cleaned up my plywood in the entranceway to get ready for me to put the bike back inside—which I am not doing).

Fuel was twice as much as I expected, so I did not do well when I pumped the tank out.

Tank is dry. Pump looks reasonably ok, but I have not bench tested. Fuel looked bad.
Just did this to mine - and fuel looked the same....

Be careful of that corrugated flexible hose - the small piece that you cut off and use to connect the pump to the fuel filter is really stiff (well, mine was, maybe due to age?!) and I ended breaking off the fuel pump PLASTIC nipple...

Could be that the fuel pump is almost 20 years old (I have a 2002) ... could be I tried to bend it too far ... could be that it's wanting me to buy a K1600GTL ....

Whatever the reason, ended up getting an after-marked one from Amazon that seemed to be identical and fits - if if lasts a year I'd be surprised, but I would have sold the old girl by then (YES - FULL DISCLOSURE to the new owner about that, unless I sell it to pick-n-pull... ).

Also make sure you check the wires from the base to the pump - although mine looked OK, I had to replace them as the insulation was brittle and falling apart, leaving exposed conductors that could short against the metal fuel lines...

Gino
Modesto, CA
'02 Silver
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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And the trees are all kept equal
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post #50 of 178 Old Mar 19th, 2020, 5:36 pm Thread Starter
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Any special cleaning procedure for the tank?
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