The bike has to roll to check the wheel sensors before they will go off. How is the battery? The abs needs a fully charged battery. Many posts on this question, use the search or technical section.
They should be both flashing together at key on for normal operation and then go off after you start moving a few meters. If they are not both flashing together at key on, then there is a fault that needs to be cleared. If the pin 21 method did not reset it, what light or lights are flashing and how fast? As Saddleman said, the ABS-II with Brembo calipers has no fluid level sensors but if you are not in the USA, then an 01 might have the integral ABS system with BMW on the front calipers so please check and let us know. You may need access to a GS911 to read the code so can you fill in a little more of your profile so we know where you are and if there is anyone close that might be able to help out?
when I turn the ignition on the lights flash one on one off back and fourth one second intervals stays the same all the time when riding fluid levels all ok pads all ok no leaks
I believe this abs system is none servo
been told off the dealer from frame number the bike was built in 1999 but registered in
2001 this my help
You have the ABSII (ABS2) system. Mine failed the same way. We call that flashing sequence "Wig Wag" fault lights. I had to pull my pump out and send it to Module Masters in Idaho. $350 rebuild with a 5 year warranty. Before I did that, I put some tape over the fault lights and rode it for 2 years. ABSII faults don't stop the brakes from stopping the bike. They work just like normal only NO ABS function.
Bad part is.. basically BMW took an abs pump and module and built a bike around it. There are YouTube videos on disassembly and removal for rebuild. Good winter project. Good luck.
I don't think you have confirmed what brake calipers you have yet. BMW or Brembo. In the UK, your 01 may have the I-ABS system. Brembo is ABS-II and BMW is I-ABS. please confirm.
I run the PC-680 (about 100 on Amazon) on both my LT and my 09 GT. It is a good quality AGM type battery. I get about 6 years out of each one. Not sure if they are available over on your side of the pond.
Nice looking. I did almost the same thing in the same place. I decided if I was going to run power up there for a volt meter, I wanted to be able to use it so I put in a combo USB/volt meter. It has a water resistant flap to cover it if needed.
You say a complete clutch, did you replace all major parts and who was the supplier? Did you install the ring that goes between the spring and the clutch housing? Maybe it would be best to start a new clutch thread.
In the mean time one of the best indicators that you installed the components correctly is how far in the slave cylinder would go before the rod presented resistance. In other words do you remember how close it was to the transmission housing before the three bolts would no longer turn with your fingers. In a worn clutch the slave would come out of the housing a good 12 mm before the bolts would turn finger tight. In a new clutch the slave will almost bottom out in the housing leaving a gap as small as 5 mm. This is a good sanity check to see if the bits were installed properly.
its as if the cylinder is pressing on the pressure plate and not releasing all the way of
the bite point on the clutch lever is right at the end of the lever and a small amount off pressure on the lever will slip the clutch
when riding if the bike is under load and hard acceleration the clutch will slip
hope this helps thanks
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