Wiring to BMR Shelf - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 5:09 pm Thread Starter
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Wiring to BMR Shelf

My BMR shelf came in today and I've got it mounted without a problem, but I'm trying to figure out the best way to get the wiring to the GPS, Sat. radio, and V-1 from under the instrument cover.
Of course I want to keep things as neat as possible and I hate to drill hole, but I think a hole in the instrument cover may be the only option.

Any ideas?

Joe
2005 BMW K1200LT
2007 Ducati Monster S4Rs
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post #2 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 5:16 pm
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NO, Joe.. don't drill holes..

I ran mine just inside the right nosecone slot on my '05. I have a "trailer" flat 4 conductor connector and wiring.. wrapped in black tape to cammo it.. then fed just inside the inside of the right windscreen slot and worked it toward center of bike and routed under the tank along "existing" wiring.

When I got back to the battery I connected the power side of the connectors to a relay. I then wired the relay (fused) into the battery. I used the bike side of the "heated seat wiring" to control the relay. (your choice, but I used the "covered" connectors of the "trailer" connection wiring as the + side to minimize sparks from accidental touching to ground.)

I then "secured" the wiring connector under the BMR shelf and wire tied it to the underside of the right BMR shelf arm... works great.. clean..

...............
J.M.J...
Dcn Channing

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post #3 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 5:28 pm
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Channing, I'm not familiar with using relays. Why use them in this scenario?

Antony (Tripod)
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post #4 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 5:39 pm Thread Starter
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I like the idea of a relay to kill everything once the bike is turned off... I'll use that.
I was hoping to run the wires through the bushed hole in the shelf then somehow get the wires under the instrument cover near where the dash light is located.
This would only leave a very short amout of wire exposed.

Joe
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post #5 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 5:45 pm
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The PO of my bike had the wires coming out next to the map light, as you suggested. Makes for a very clean looking install. Dunno how tough that was to do, but I s'pose I'll be finding out when I take off the Tupperware to remove a couple, replace one, and add an additional one.

Antony (Tripod)
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post #6 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 6:12 pm
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Hey guys.. if you want to do that, might I suggest you remove the windscreen then remove the dashlight to access the center mount switch... then remove the screws on the top of the nosecone around the edge. Once you have the windscreen mounts in the correct position the cover will lift clear... NOTE: it tends to be snug at the front.. so lift the top away a bit then slide toward rear as you lift.

Now you can see all the goodies..

Enjoy...

...............
J.M.J...
Dcn Channing

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post #7 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 6:29 pm Thread Starter
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I was able to get the cover off, but it looks like the cover overlaps the instrument housing.
I could probably file a notch in the cover where the two of them meet... or drill a hole in the instrument housing and feed the wires through it with a rubber grommet.
If I come through right next to the dash light, it should prevent rain from getting behind there.

Joe
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post #8 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 6:31 pm
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Wire to the map light. There are blade connectors on the map light assembly.


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post #9 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 7:00 pm
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Relays .. Relays are electrically controlled switches. As long as the electric magnet (coil) is "energized" that switch is "closed" or, turned "on"... de-energize (turn off electiricity to the coil) and the switch is "openned" or turned off.

Relays are methods of controling power, usually large power draw items... but can be used for anything.

...............
J.M.J...
Dcn Channing

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post #10 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 7:40 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfell
Relays .. Relays are electrically controlled switches. As long as the electric magnet (coil) is "energized" that switch is "closed" or, turned "on"... de-energize (turn off electiricity to the coil) and the switch is "openned" or turned off.

Relays are methods of controling power, usually large power draw items... but can be used for anything.
So, by hooking a relay's "sensing" lead to a circuit that is only on when the ignition is on, you effectively "kill" the relayed circuit as well. Did I catch the explanation correctly?

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
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post #11 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 7:41 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eljeffe
Wire to the map light. There are blade connectors on the map light assembly.
ElJeffe described what I was trying to. Looks VERY clean that way.

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
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If you want to be happy for a day, drink.
If you want to be happy for a year, marry.
If you want to be happy for a lifetime, ride a motorcycle.

-----------------------------------------------


'05 K1200LT - Dark Graphite - RIP 04 OCT 2015
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post #12 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 7:44 pm
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This is how I ran my wires when I installed my BMR CoPilot years ago.


Jack D. (Southern Connecticut)
2001 Black LTC
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post #13 of 17 Old Jan 15th, 2007, 8:14 pm
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Lynn Keen helped me install a BMR shelf and pre-wire a Garmin power cable a while back. Like El Jeffe suggested, we connected to the spade connectors on the map light. Lynn had adaptors (I saw similar ones at Radio Shack) that have a female connection on one end, and two male spades on the other end. All you need to do is add female spade connectors to your GPS power cord (or whatever else you want to wire in). I had mine apart today, in fact, reconnecting the power cable for my new Zumo.

As for routing the cable: If you look at Jack's post there is a good clear picture of the small hole to the left of the map light. Lynn had me use a Dremel tool to enlarge that hole to pass the wire through. I've seen several bikes wired that way, but if you are not careful you could make the hole too big and the map light may not hold properly.

I helped another list member wire his GPS a while back; we used the Dremel tool but we cut the notch on the top side of the map light. I liked that better.

Of course, with the BMR shelf in place the map light area is out of sight anyway.
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post #14 of 17 Old Jan 20th, 2007, 10:02 pm
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Joe , If you are looking for a good, clean and reasonable way to connect all your goodies on the BMR shelf I cut a hole to the left of the dash light about 1/2 inch and inserted a grommet. This allows for many wires to be cleanly passed under the shelf to the toys!!! I also added adhesive wire clips to the bottom of the BMR shelf at points to ensure the wires were safe, neat, and out of sight!! As for power.. if only a small source is needed you can indeed tap into the dash light, but if you need multiple connections or higher current, the map light can be the source for a relay to enable/disable a direct higher power circuit from the battery. I ran this to a power strip and made all connections to the strip. This way you can have the power needed and switched by the key to ensure you will not discharge the battery. if you are not comfortable figuring out relays and amperage, you can find complete driving light relay kits at most auto parts stores and they work great!! I am installing a new com unit and will have this all apart in a few days, so if you need photo's for ideas let me know.

Bill
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post #15 of 17 Old Jan 21st, 2007, 6:12 am Thread Starter
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"I cut a hole to the left of the dash light about 1/2 inch and inserted a grommet. This allows for many wires to be cleanly passed under the shelf to the toys!!! I also added adhesive wire clips to the bottom of the BMR shelf at points to ensure the wires were safe, neat, and out of sight!!"

Bill, That's the way I pictured it. I plan to put GPS, Sat Radio and V-1 radar detector on the shelf, so I need power for all three. I'm not sure what size fuse feeds the dash light or what else may be on the same circuit, but I know these three units don't draw much at all. There seems to be plenty of space under the nose cone, so I think I'll put a strip under there and tap the light for a source.
This is all part of my "winter upgrade" and includes HID headlight and an auxiliary brake light. Once the garage warms up (temps in single digits right now) I'll get this project done.

Joe
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post #16 of 17 Old Jan 21st, 2007, 11:11 am
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Don't forget if you are putting a SAT radio you will probably need more than just power. If you connect direct audio that is another cable and most SAT radios have antennas with lots or lead that needs to be buried.. maybe your radar detector needs an audio connection to your comm system... so you could be looking at 8, 10 or more wires.. That is what I have in my picture in the previous post..

Jack D. (Southern Connecticut)
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post #17 of 17 Old Jan 21st, 2007, 11:48 am
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As you can see from the photo on Jack's reply a lot of wires seem to be needed and his routing is exactly as I did.. And also we agree even though the power seems low for each I suspect you want to pull power from a higher amperage source than the dash light to power all the goodies.
I also just added a HID a while back and while I had the nose off (for easy install), I figured this would be a great time for routing of the HID bits and pieces as well as power distribution for BMR mounted goodies. It is not absolutely required to pull the nose off to install the HD, but as it is really not hard to pull the nose off and then access to everything is open. I mounted all HID pieces with velcro to the inside of the nose and made a very clean install!

Bill
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