Well that escalated quickly. - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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  • 2 Post By bmwcoolk1200
  • 2 Post By jzeiler
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post #1 of 12 Old Oct 31st, 2019, 10:07 am Thread Starter
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Well that escalated quickly.

So after my post about what I was quoted for a new EHCS I was offered a second hand unit from a very kind member of the forum and of course I happily took him up on his offer. While talking to him on the phone and the subject of suspension came up. I decided to pull my rear shock out and have it rebuilt as the preload adjustment had actually stripped the thread.
So as I had the bike almost half undressed and it wouldn't be going anywhere until the shock comes back I decided to do a few things I had been planning on doing for a while.
Air filter , fuel filter, and crank case ventilation tube.
I came home that afternoon and stripped the bike down further than I had gone before. When I pulled out the old air filter I found that it was full of dead bugs and two of them were found underneath the air filter and pushed firmly into the foam on the filter. At that point I realized that whoever last serviced this bike was just too bloody lazy to clean out the air box and just put the new filter in on top of the dead bugs that had already been in there. All the more reason to do all this work yourself.
I have a question though, in picture No.4 how do you undo these hose clamps on the throttle body.
Also does anyone know of any good utube videos on removing the throttle body assembly.
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post #2 of 12 Old Oct 31st, 2019, 11:05 am
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Re: Well that escalated quickly.

Removing them is fairly easy. Getting them back together is not. A small flat blade screwdriver and pry lightly at the red arrow and the clamp will pop apart.

They can be reused if careful but you have to squeeze like hell at the green brackets points to get it to clip together again.

Some use over sized needle nose pliers and have success. I personally use a pair of needle nosed vise grips as it is easier to get the force needed to get them back together. Some have had enough trouble getting them clipped again that they ordered the screw type clamps and used them but they use these clip type on bikes with cruise control to keep the clamps from interfering with the throttle linkage and binding the throttle opened. Placement is critical with the screw type clamps, even those that are currently in use on cyl 3 and 4 so take a picture so you know where they need to be when done.
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post #3 of 12 Old Oct 31st, 2019, 11:43 am
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Re: Well that escalated quickly.

I use all re-usable clamps on mine and here is a shot of how to orient the clamps for non interference.
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post #4 of 12 Old Oct 31st, 2019, 12:46 pm
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Re: Well that escalated quickly.

They are "clic" hose clamps. They have one end that overrides the other and snaps together as you release tension. They have to be formed so the top piece wants to fit snug onto the bottom as it over rides. You can use long reach needle nose pliers and a Oring pick if it is really recessed. But it is important to re use them as much as possible because of the limited space and the possibility of the fuel rack hanging up on the larger screw type clamps. Placement is critical in there and be sure to make sure nothing is binding when all re installed. And, there are tools for this! Below is an inexpensive set of pliers made for removal and installation.
https://www.amazon.com/Pliers-Clic-R...s%2C220&sr=8-2

I'd say you are 25% of the way in for a clutch housing O-ring replacement! Let me know if you would like a 19x4mm viton Oring.
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post #5 of 12 Old Oct 31st, 2019, 6:55 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Well that escalated quickly.

Thanks for the advice guys, I thought they would unclip that way but it's good to get the confirmation. It has been a worthwhile exercise stripping it down. One thing I found was the overflow tube for the radiator was ruptured where it attaches just under the radiator cap. You could see where coolant had been coming out and running down the back of the radiator. I've never had any fluids under the bike so I never would have known. The other thing I noticed is that the radiator cap seems to be very hard to remove. When you go to undo it , it just seems to hit a strop in the anti clockwise direction.
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post #6 of 12 Old Oct 31st, 2019, 9:27 pm
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Re: Well that escalated quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazza View Post
The other thing I noticed is that the radiator cap seems to be very hard to remove. When you go to undo it , it just seems to hit a strop in the anti clockwise direction.
I am pretty sure it is suppose to be like that. Sometimes you have to press down on the cap to remove it after the first stop.
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post #7 of 12 Old Nov 2nd, 2019, 9:36 pm
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Re: Well that escalated quickly.

Wait till you have to drop the engine to replace the clutch plate Wazza!
EHCS on its way up the coast next week.... will send some contact details later.

Chris
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post #8 of 12 Old Nov 3rd, 2019, 9:14 am Thread Starter
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Re: Well that escalated quickly.

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Originally Posted by cws View Post
Wait till you have to drop the engine to replace the clutch plate Wazza!
EHCS on its way up the coast next week.... will send some contact details later.
Ha Ha yeah I know. It's one of the jobs that I think about sometimes but then replacing the crank case breather tube is another one I worried about. Now that I have done it I didn't think it was really all that hard. I have all the throttle body back together and all the oil has been cleaned away from around the top of the engine. I now know I can remove all that fairly easily so the thought of dropping the engine is just a step or two further. The more I do to the LT the more I feel at ease with tasks I will need to do on the bike.
You know, all this started after the conversation I had with you on the phone about the EHCS. You said something about the preload adjustment on the rear shock needing to have the oil replaced so I thought I would do it. The adjustment thread in the body of the unit so I removed it to have it rebuilt. Then one afternoon I thought well why not use this time to do more repairs and here I am.
Thanks for bringing that EHCS up Chris, I'm looking forward to reinstating that function on my bike, I couldn't have done it without your kind offer.
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post #9 of 12 Old Dec 9th, 2019, 12:59 am
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Re: Well that escalated quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazza View Post
Thanks for bringing that EHCS up Chris, I'm looking forward to reinstating that function on my bike
So, enquiring minds want to know Wazza.... how are you gettng on with fitting new seals and adding the EHCS to your bike?

Chris
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post #10 of 12 Old Dec 9th, 2019, 7:45 am Thread Starter
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Re: Well that escalated quickly.

Hi Chris haven't had a good chance to get to it just yet. After I received it I had a quick look and I notice that one of the copper washers under one of the bleed screws was too big and this would have been a big problem for sealing. Since then I have been flat out with other stuff. I had to buy a new truck because my old Falcon XR8 Ute was starting to fall apart. Work has been busy and has taken me out of town and on top of that I had a week off up the coast for a short vacation. I have to admit that I have only ridden the bike once since doing all that other work on it. Just too bloody hot at the moment to get all kitted up. I was tempted to just put a new copper washer on it and fill it with new oil but I might as well go the whole hog and do it properly.
I do have some questions though. With the ignition switch turned on I don't detect 12volts at the plug.
Does the engine need to be running to deploy the stand ?
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post #11 of 12 Old Dec 9th, 2019, 12:58 pm
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Re: Well that escalated quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazza View Post
So after my post about what I was quoted for a new EHCS I was offered a second hand unit from a very kind member of the forum and of course I happily took him up on his offer. While talking to him on the phone and the subject of suspension came up. I decided to pull my rear shock out and have it rebuilt as the preload adjustment had actually stripped the thread.
So as I had the bike almost half undressed and it wouldn't be going anywhere until the shock comes back I decided to do a few things I had been planning on doing for a while.
Air filter , fuel filter, and crank case ventilation tube.
I came home that afternoon and stripped the bike down further than I had gone before. When I pulled out the old air filter I found that it was full of dead bugs and two of them were found underneath the air filter and pushed firmly into the foam on the filter. At that point I realized that whoever last serviced this bike was just too bloody lazy to clean out the air box and just put the new filter in on top of the dead bugs that had already been in there. All the more reason to do all this work yourself.
I have a question though, in picture No.4 how do you undo these hose clamps on the throttle body.
Also does anyone know of any good utube videos on removing the throttle body assembly.
I think we have all fallen into the LT maintenance black hole at least once.

Probably the service was done either at a dealership or by an unskilled owner. Most dealer techs know how to do things right, but often aren’t given the time to do so given the profit pressure. Many owners have good intentions, but not always the knowledge to do things right. Fortunately, most of the forum members take the time to learn to do things right and then take the time to do things right.
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post #12 of 12 Old Dec 10th, 2019, 6:04 pm
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Re: Well that escalated quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazza View Post
I do have some questions though. With the ignition switch turned on I don't detect 12volts at the plug.
Does the engine need to be running to deploy the stand ?
There will be 12V at the plug (2 pin) only when the key is on, the is button pushed and all the interlocks met (brakes off, side stand up, and in neutral). Oh yeah if the center stand is already deployed you will not get the voltage so it is hard to check with both stands up but that is the only way you can do it.
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John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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