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K1200LT + sidecar

8K views 30 replies 15 participants last post by  allenbowen4353 
#1 ·
I have a "new to me" K1200lt with a Hannigan Astro sport sidecar for a week.
I noticed that the bike is very low and scrap when there is a small dip or bump on the road.
I would be interested to hear from people with a sidecar if they have the same problem / and how to solve it.
I have presently a garage built and won't be able to tackle the problem before a month of two (Let's wait for the winter).
Can a spacer be installed on the suspension to give more ground clearance?
This would be an easy solution as the Hannigan has power trim and can be power lifted to match the geometry of the bike.

Thanks,

Bert
 
#2 ·
I solved my scraping problem by changing the suspension springs for Hyperpro. I used to scrape all the time even with the hydraulic adjustment at maximum but now it stays high even at the minimum adjustment.
There are some other things you can also do that will help , like cutting the rubber grommet on the kickstand in half (helps on cornering scraping but that is probably not your problem) and recharging the plunger of the hydraulic adjustment, but these only give minor improvements compared to the stronger springs.
 
#3 ·
I solved my scraping problem by changing the suspension springs for Hyperpro.
Thank you (or merci) JWA
I was looking at the Hyperpro options, but before investing on the bike, I wanted to have feedback from owners and not salesmen.
I just got the bike, and I can already see the cash register going crazy... Fuel lines quick couplings, stainless steel braided brake lines, shocks springs,.... This is all for a better riding experience.
 
#4 ·
Could be as simple as adding oil to the preload adjuster. Test it by rotating it all the way out, the see how far you can turn it back in until you feel resistance. If it is more than a half turn you need to add oil. Unbolt the adjuster and remove the banjo (support the loose hose so it stays full) then use a rod to push the backup plate all the way in and add jack oil until full. Hook everything back up and see if adding preload now solves your problem. Nobody knows where the missing oil goes but it does go.
 
#5 · (Edited)
BMW shocks tend to be undersprung and *maybe* will get you through the warranty period (but not covered anyway, as "normal wear item"). Adding the additional weight (sidecar) just puts you further past the overloaded springs, and the K12LT is already pretty low to the ground.

When I bought my rig, a previous owner had replaced the bike's shocks F&R with aftermarket (Hyperpro, IIRC). I also rebuilt the front forks, and added the "power steering" adapter to ease the steering (I think that lifts the front an inch or so). Also had to rework the trim adjuster (mechanicals and electricals). All works now, and rarely drag unless a steep approach or escape (that "chin spoiler" option on the front eats even more clearance). I'm thinking the sidecar's shock probably needs replacing, as it seems to have a lot of play when cornering (it has a preload adjustment as well, to stiffen up the spring).

So multiple ways to attack thi$.
 
#16 ·
What’s that “power steering adapter”?
Like the fork bridge plate where the shocks pivots ?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#6 ·
Hi , we have a 2002 K1200LT/ Hannigan 2+2 sidecar . I put Hannigan's heavy duty spring on the stock front shock . I had put there steer lite on ,and it helped a lot to get it to turn, but I was bottoming out the front end . The heavy duty spring help fix that . From what I under stand , Hannigan uses them both on the K1200LT trike rigs.

Like John said , The rear preload adjuster may need to be filled . I have fill mine a few times . I think as the spring ages it starts to collapse, to make up for it the preload needs more oil to make up for the spring being shorter now.:wave
 
#8 · (Edited)
This is not another tire thread :cool:

I have 2009 K1200TL with a Hannigan SP2 sidecar and have been running it for 4 years now . . .

Front Tire: SHINKO 130/70-17 62H
Been running for 4 years - lots of meat on the tire - many K1200LTs that have been triked run this tire as well
Was a recommendation from Doc Edkin who puts on many more miles than I ever will - he has a K1200LT with a Hannigan GTL sidecar
Clearance = On my bike runs real close the the fender but no issues - might have used few washers here and there - can't remember!!!
Cost was $69 shipped on Amazon.

FYI
Bridgestone Front Tire Rating 58V - 520# 150mph
Shinko Front Tire Rating 62H - 584# 130mph
(Note the Shinko is a Rear Tire and the windings on the tire help in this situation as the normal front tires wear quickly in a sidecar application
as they scrub in turns in fact some people run them backwards to get even better life but give up siping - I do not I run them in recommended
direction)

Current Rear Tire: Stock Bridgestone Bias Ply Battlax 160/70-17

New Rear Tire: However just purchased Achilles-ATR-K-ECONOMIST 175/55-17 88V Car Tire and I am going to mount this tire on the LTs rim.
Talked with two owners of K1200LTs at the BMWMOA Rally in Lebanon this year who have been running on these car tires on
stock rear rims for several years with no issues. From a design standpoint some risk in that the car tire differs from motorcycle
tires in the rim profile. Tire does require additional spacers and longer BMW lug nuts . . .

Tire size calculators indicate that the car tire mentioned will require the motor to run about 4.9% higher in RPMs - however
when running motorcycle tires with a sidecar the center flat spots and wears down fairly quickly thus the real difference in
motor RPMs is not all that great and the higher RPMs give the bike a little more grunt in all gears!!

There is a thread on ADVRider that talks about this and many other K1200LT sidecar stuff >> CLICK

Good luck as you take in all this information . . .
 
#10 ·
Hi Bert , I put a BT45 130/70-17 Bias Rear on the front backwards. The tire fits under fender, I had to play with it a little . My fender wasn't in the center for some reason, but I played with it a little & it clears the tire OK. You would not want to go ride in dirt or mud for sure as it is a bit close , but on road it is good. I run #42 in it and it handles good.

Using a R1200CL rear wheel ,I put a VREDESTEIN SPRINT CLASSIC on the rear, I think this is the one https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Tire...e&pagelen=20&pagenum=1&pagemark=1&RunFlat=All . I have been running #42 it the rear also. I used the stock 2MM shim & a I think 1 MM R1200CL shim on the rear when I put it on my bike. The tire fits fine . The VREDESTEIN tire is a little more money , but has a narrower Section Width and fits without rubbing on anything.:wave
 
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#11 ·
Thanks Patric.
From your comment and others (+ different web sites too), I believe that I will go with the BT45 for the front.
As for the rear tire, it's a bit more difficult.
I am in Canada and the choice of tire is zero. I haven't found anybody that have a car tire fitting an original K1200 wheel.
The only option is the U.S.A but shipping and duties are twice the price of a tire.
I am still looking. :)
 
#12 ·
Hi , I tried looking at the Canadan Tire web page ...I could not find anything...

Anyway , I was not keen on the tire aspect porfile of the tires to go on the 17 inch rear wheel . So , I used a 15 inch wheel off a R1200CL like this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-2003-...sh=item1f008c90d8:g:HDMAAOSw7OFdZX7q&LH_All=1 . Then I could use a 15 inch tire . To me the 17 inch tire was so short that I thought it would ride way too rough . The 15 I use gave a lot smother ride that the stock set up .:wave
 
#13 ·
Thanks for this Patric.
May I ask you what tire/size you have on this rim?
I try not to be an aggressive rider anymore >:) and I am looking at tires widely available with a looooong life.
The 15" r12cl wheel seems to be a good option but as the bike is already quite low with the car attached, I am a bit afraid that it will have the tendency to scrape when going over speed bumps or deep pot holes (It seems that we are cultivating them in Canada and they will pop all over in the spring. Worst than dandelions!).
 
#14 ·
Hi . I used a Vredestein 165-70-R15 it is just slightly shorter that the stock 17 inch tire . Side but side as I remember was 1/8" or so shorther So, the ride hight is almost the same . I have only put maybe 4,000 miles on it , and it was a little wear in the center so I may have it a bit over inflated for the load . I am running 42 pounds on all three wheels , so I might take it down to 38-to-40 .

Vredestein has changed the marking on the tire from 165 70R 15 , but I think it is the same specs . They now call it a SPRINT CLASSIC - SIZE: 165/0HR15 , The tire is here
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...m=6HR5SC&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes you can then click on specs for the details.

We just moved from Michigan to Florida , and I road it down here in August . I run it down state & US highways most all 55 MPH roads . I don't use fifth gear as I have had the input shaft front bearing go out twice. So forth gear at 55 - 60 keeps from lugging and putting too much stress on the bearing. I am thinking of putting a different final drive on so in fifth it would be less stress..But..I usually only ride it if my wife ..and our Yorkie go .. And that is usually only one or two hundred miles out into the country and back on 55 MPH roads . :wave
 
#15 ·
Superb LT/Rig info!

TRULY appreciate the LT Rig-ification insights and link out on the ADV forum as I have also had some great interactions with Hanningan over the years and applaud their customer commitment. As a Kirk Johnson devotee I am putting new Hyperpro suspension & damper on this season and will likely get to my test drives after the last snow melts....Yes, I hear what you're thinking and I have only one response: "New Grandchildren".
 
#17 ·
Hi.
What’s that “power steering adapter”?
Like the fork bridge plate where the shocks pivots ?
That is pretty much it . The Hannigan steer lite I put on is two plates / blocks that go on between the fork sliders and the tel-a-leaver . It moves the front wheel out the a little . I put it on a long time ago , But as I remember it is the amount of space that is between the screws that hold the slides on.:wave
 
#18 ·
Hi.

That is pretty much it . The Hannigan steer lite I put on is two plates / blocks that go on between the fork sliders and the tel-a-leaver . It moves the front wheel out the a little . I put it on a long time ago , But as I remember it is the amount of space that is between the screws that hold the slides on.:wave
Patric,
Although I have seen other brand-models modifications for Sidecar steering, I am curious to see what the modified TOP or BOTTOM triple clamp look like on your K1200LT.

Could you please post a few photos ?
 
#19 ·
Could you please post a few photos ?
I can try , but right now our house is under construction . We just moved to Florida from Michigan . I had a nice Motron building in Michigan https://mortonbuildings.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-bmUnbue5QIVjZ6fCh1gMwCJEAAYASAAEgLKffD_BwE it was 42 x 60 x 14 . it was my man cave...My Fortress of Solitude...In Florida we have a 12x12 shed . So, I have people enlarging the car port to 20 x 32 & making the shed to 20 x 28 behind that . Anyway , I have some stuff here , some under two other people's car port , & some under our friends hay shed out on there farm .

But , as far as the front end goes , if you take the two screws out that hold the fork slides on . Then move the slides forward and put a screw where the front goes into the back hole of the slide . As far as the top of the fork's , they are in rubber mounts on top. There is enough movement in the rubber to move the tube out that far.:wave
 
#25 ·
Revisiting this thread a year later and, yes Patric, those pics are not too good. I went to Google to see if I could find a better pic of Hannigan's "ball joint relocation plate" -- it moves the ball joint 1" forward which reduces the trail sufficiently for sidecar use -- but I did not. However, I did find this pic of a DMC plate which is exactly the same design except that DMC uses a spacer between the OEM lower fork bridge (the upper one in this pic) and the relocation plate (bolted to the forks in this pic) to help compensate for the loss of ride height created when you move the ball joint forward. Hannigan's approach is to sandwich the two plates together (no spacers) then fix the ride height problem with a stiffer shock spring. I have a Hannigan plate on my K12 rig.

171406


While Googling for the pic I stumbled on an interesting thread in another forum that's on-topic with this thread here.

Click on the link below to read ---->

 
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