Keyless locks and cruise control - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 8 Old May 30th, 2019, 12:04 pm Thread Starter
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Keyless locks and cruise control

Is there any interaction between the cruise control and the keyless locking system?

Linda checked the odometer last night and I forgot to tell her about turning the key too far left. I went out this morning to unlock the bike to load up and the key fob did not work. After a couple of attempts I started looking around and, you guessed it, the key was removed in the parking light position. The Shorai was deader than a doornail.

We heard a gentlemen at breakfast in the hotel mention riding to Sturgis so I went back and asked him if he could give me a jump start. Thankfully, he had an F250 and was parked right near me. I rolled the LT over and got out my jumper cables and they were just long enough. Got the LT started and let it run while packing up. However, the locks would still not unlock so I had to use the manual open trick to open the cases, but apparently that does not work on the oddments box as I could not get that to unlock with the key.

I tried a few more times and the key fob would not work. I stopped for gas about 1/4 mile from the hotel and risked shutting down. The key fob still would not work. The LT did fire right up so we hit the road. I then found that the cruise would not set. The LED comes on when the switch is on, but it will not set.

After about 20 miles, we stopped for take some pictures. I turned the LT off again and tried the fob. Still no luck. So, I tried alternating locking and unlocking several times to try to get it to “relearn” and after 5 or 6 times it clicked and began to work. I then tried the cruise once we got underway and that worked once, but the second time I went to set it it would not work again. I tried to hear the switches, but there is too much road noise where we are at and I can’t hear anything. I checked both brake switches using the brake lights and they both work fine and the brake light is not stuck on. I think that leaves just the clutch switch and throttle switch.

Anything else I should check? Is this pure coincidence or is there some interaction between the keyless locking system and the cruise? Anything I need to reset or fuses to check? I am on the road and have no reference materials with me. I will do some searching here tonight, but don’t have time right now and I can get buy without cruise although I sure miss it.

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #2 of 8 Old May 30th, 2019, 12:19 pm
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Re: Keyless locks and cruise control

The only thing I can recommend is to disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes to reset the computer and then reconnect. You can just disconnect the negative battery terminal. In the past, that has "fixed" some problems for me.

My 2001 did not have a FOB.

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Last edited by rspyder; May 30th, 2019 at 2:08 pm. Reason: add information
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post #3 of 8 Old May 30th, 2019, 1:50 pm
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Re: Keyless locks and cruise control

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
Is there any interaction between the cruise control and the keyless locking system?

Linda checked the odometer last night and I forgot to tell her about turning the key too far left. I went out this morning to unlock the bike to load up and the key fob did not work. After a couple of attempts I started looking around and, you guessed it, the key was removed in the parking light position. The Shorai was deader than a doornail.
...
....
Anything else I should check? Is this pure coincidence or is there some interaction between the keyless locking system and the cruise? Anything I need to reset or fuses to check? I am on the road and have no reference materials with me. I will do some searching here tonight, but don’t have time right now and I can get buy without cruise although I sure miss it.
About the Cruise-control: As you probably remember, I have studied the system and wiring quite well when I did my tutorial many years ago. I am NOT aware of any connection with cruise system to any other system(s). Nothing else than Right handlebar switch assy AND 4 micro-switches (2 for brakes, 1 for clutch, 1 for throttle-bodies giving signal to the main cruise-unit under fairing (plus a fuse).

THE ONLY indirect EXCEPTION is the center bulb in the main rear light of the K1200LT that is rigged as a K1200RS single bulb brake light. If this bulb fails or is disconnected, the dash will show a permanent (non flashing) "General Warning" (triangle) as soon as you turn the key ON. This is explained in PDF file (see link below).

When troubleshooting, you should always start with static diagnostic routine on center-stand - Key ON but engine OFF. Each part of the diagnostic routine will confirm if switch is actuating or NOT (will also indirectly tell if switch is stuck in ON position). See below the link to the PDF file you can easily follow - I know you are on a trip right now so I will assume the PDF summary with steps is more useful than the Video on YouTube.

When testing for functioning brake switches, Do NOT rely on servo noise OR the fact the rear brake bulb is ON. The iABS with servos design is such that it will activate both the servos and the brake bulb even of the brake switch is not working (as it uses pressure sensing tranducer inside the ABS unit , but will do this job to replace brake switch signal at later lever/pedal travel - where the switch will do it early)

Pay attention to warning Notes in PDF file about 2 cases where the micro-switches are linked together, so if the routine fails at that point you cannot always assume this is the one defective. For example: both brake micro-switches are on same signal wire AS-FAR-AS the cruise unit is concerned (but not for the ABS unit).

So, if a failure on step 4 (forward throttle test), it could also be the Clutch Lever micro switch that is stuck ON - remember these 2 are on same signal to cruise unit. After or before Key ON, you can also listen to click of each switch in silence of Key OFF, Engine OFF (no ABS relay clicking).

ALSO, keep in mind that there has been cases reported where the issue is not related to micro-switches but instead link to plastic wear caused by moving the ON-OFF grey switch on handlebar (left right movement). It is suggested to always leave this main switch ON. No danger for me (my opinion) as the cruise will not engage at low speed by design (about 30 MPH needed). I have seen this plastic wear causing intermittent ON/OFF of the cruise myself on some used combo switch assy (testing on bench).

Link to PDF summary and video on our forum here:
https://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt...tml#post533469

-------------------------------------------------
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 95,000 miles)
-------------------------------------------------
Think twice before you hit [SUBMIT REPLY] - famous quote by another member:
"The value of this board is not founded on dismissing the ideas of others, but by posting to share our experiences and what we've learned from them."

Last edited by sailor; May 30th, 2019 at 2:05 pm.
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post #4 of 8 Old May 30th, 2019, 6:22 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Keyless locks and cruise control

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
About the Cruise-control: As you probably remember, I have studied the system and wiring quite well when I did my tutorial many years ago. I am NOT aware of any connection with cruise system to any other system(s). Nothing else than Right handlebar switch assy AND 4 micro-switches (2 for brakes, 1 for clutch, 1 for throttle-bodies giving signal to the main cruise-unit under fairing (plus a fuse).

THE ONLY indirect EXCEPTION is the center bulb in the main rear light of the K1200LT that is rigged as a K1200RS single bulb brake light. If this bulb fails or is disconnected, the dash will show a permanent (non flashing) "General Warning" (triangle) as soon as you turn the key ON. This is explained in PDF file (see link below).

When troubleshooting, you should always start with static diagnostic routine on center-stand - Key ON but engine OFF. Each part of the diagnostic routine will confirm if switch is actuating or NOT (will also indirectly tell if switch is stuck in ON position). See below the link to the PDF file you can easily follow - I know you are on a trip right now so I will assume the PDF summary with steps is more useful than the Video on YouTube.

When testing for functioning brake switches, Do NOT rely on servo noise OR the fact the rear brake bulb is ON. The iABS with servos design is such that it will activate both the servos and the brake bulb even of the brake switch is not working (as it uses pressure sensing tranducer inside the ABS unit , but will do this job to replace brake switch signal at later lever/pedal travel - where the switch will do it early)

Pay attention to warning Notes in PDF file about 2 cases where the micro-switches are linked together, so if the routine fails at that point you cannot always assume this is the one defective. For example: both brake micro-switches are on same signal wire AS-FAR-AS the cruise unit is concerned (but not for the ABS unit).

So, if a failure on step 4 (forward throttle test), it could also be the Clutch Lever micro switch that is stuck ON - remember these 2 are on same signal to cruise unit. After or before Key ON, you can also listen to click of each switch in silence of Key OFF, Engine OFF (no ABS relay clicking).

ALSO, keep in mind that there has been cases reported where the issue is not related to micro-switches but instead link to plastic wear caused by moving the ON-OFF grey switch on handlebar (left right movement). It is suggested to always leave this main switch ON. No danger for me (my opinion) as the cruise will not engage at low speed by design (about 30 MPH needed). I have seen this plastic wear causing intermittent ON/OFF of the cruise myself on some used combo switch assy (testing on bench).

Link to PDF summary and video on our forum here:
https://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt...tml#post533469
Thanks for the link reference as I had planned to go searching for that tonight. I am pretty sure the issue is/was in the clutch switch. I wiggled the clutch and got it to work and it was flakey for a while, but then came back rock solid. I washed the bike a little yesterday by throwing soapy water on it and the fresh water from a hotel ice bucket. No pressure, but maybe some water got in it and had to dry out today. In any event, it worked solidly all afternoon so I will see what tomorrow brings.

I was not aware of any integration of the cruise to anything else, but I wanted to check with the experts here.

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #5 of 8 Old Jun 1st, 2019, 2:15 pm
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Re: Keyless locks and cruise control

Check to see if your horn will honk, if it does not then the loss of 12 V may have taken out the alarm and caused it to blow fuse F4 (horn , brake light and alarm). Leaving the bike in "R" should not have drained the battery. I guess on re-reading your post you did finally get the alarm to work? If so there is no connection between it and the cruise that I can find in the diagrams.

And reading it again on the third try I found it was in the parking light mode so that explains a lot. Sorry.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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post #6 of 8 Old Jun 1st, 2019, 5:43 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Keyless locks and cruise control

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
Check to see if your horn will honk, if it does not then the loss of 12 V may have taken out the alarm and caused it to blow fuse F4 (horn , brake light and alarm). Leaving the bike in "R" should not have drained the battery. I guess on re-reading your post you did finally get the alarm to work? If so there is no connection between it and the cruise that I can find in the diagrams.

And reading it again on the third try I found it was in the parking light mode so that explains a lot. Sorry.
Yes, I knew what the problem was as soon as I saw the switch position. Battery came back and is working fine.

Just loose left mirror and cruise control issues remaining. I think the front mirror clip broke. I taped it with electrical tape, but that did not hold. Whitehorse has a Walmart so I will try duct tape next.

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #7 of 8 Old Jun 1st, 2019, 6:48 pm
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Re: Keyless locks and cruise control

Duct Tape and WD40. Covers just about everything.
Safe riding and enjoy the trip.
Photos please.
Cheers

Jenna: Ocean Blue '06
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post #8 of 8 Old Jun 1st, 2019, 8:38 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Keyless locks and cruise control

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Originally Posted by Hilton View Post
Duct Tape and WD40. Covers just about everything.
Safe riding and enjoy the trip.
Photos please.
Cheers
Photos of duct tape on the mirror?
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2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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