Is there any interaction between the cruise control and the keyless locking system?
Linda checked the odometer last night and I forgot to tell her about turning the key too far left. I went out this morning to unlock the bike to load up and the key fob did not work. After a couple of attempts I started looking around and, you guessed it, the key was removed in the parking light position. The Shorai was deader than a doornail.
Anything else I should check? Is this pure coincidence or is there some interaction between the keyless locking system and the cruise? Anything I need to reset or fuses to check? I am on the road and have no reference materials with me. I will do some searching here tonight, but don’t have time right now and I can get buy without cruise although I sure miss it.
About the Cruise-control: As you probably remember, I have studied the system and wiring quite well when I did my tutorial many years ago. I am NOT aware of any connection with cruise system to any other system(s). Nothing else than Right handlebar switch assy AND 4 micro-switches (2 for brakes, 1 for clutch, 1 for throttle-bodies giving signal to the main cruise-unit under fairing (plus a fuse).
THE ONLY indirect EXCEPTION is the center bulb in the main rear light of the K1200LT that is rigged as a K1200RS single bulb brake light. If this bulb fails or is disconnected, the dash will show a permanent (non flashing) "General Warning" (triangle) as soon as you turn the key ON. This is explained in PDF file (see link below).
When troubleshooting, you should always start with static diagnostic routine on center-stand - Key ON but engine OFF. Each part of the diagnostic routine will confirm if switch is actuating or NOT (will also indirectly tell if switch is stuck in ON position). See below the link to the PDF file you can easily follow - I know you are on a trip right now so I will assume the PDF summary with steps is more useful than the Video on YouTube.
When testing for functioning brake switches, Do NOT rely on servo noise OR the fact the rear brake bulb is ON. The iABS with servos design is such that it will activate both the servos and the brake bulb even of the brake switch is not working (as it uses pressure sensing tranducer inside the ABS unit , but will do this job to replace brake switch signal at later lever/pedal travel - where the switch will do it early)
Pay attention to warning Notes in PDF file about 2 cases where the micro-switches are linked together, so if the routine fails at that point you cannot always assume this is the one defective. For example: both brake micro-switches are on same signal wire AS-FAR-AS the cruise unit is concerned (but not for the ABS unit).
So, if a failure on step 4 (forward throttle test), it could also be the Clutch Lever micro switch that is stuck ON - remember these 2 are on same signal to cruise unit. After or before Key ON, you can also listen to click of each switch in silence of Key OFF, Engine OFF (no ABS relay clicking).
ALSO, keep in mind that there has been cases reported where the issue is not related to micro-switches but instead link to plastic wear caused by moving the ON-OFF grey switch on handlebar (left right movement). It is suggested to always leave this main switch ON. No danger for me (my opinion) as the cruise will not engage at low speed by design (about 30 MPH needed). I have seen this plastic wear causing intermittent ON/OFF of the cruise myself on some used combo switch assy (testing on bench).
Link to PDF summary and video on our forum here: