2006 Side Fairing Removal...Help - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 3:08 pm Thread Starter
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2006 Side Fairing Removal...Help

Ok, I decided to try and get at my spark plugs to see how bad the fairing removal would go. That was my first mistake. My second mistake was in actually getting the fairing off.

I took off the mirror, lower windshield, radio cover, and crashbar. Then I noticed that my Clymer 1998-2005 LT repair guide's pics looked different than my bike. I had thought that the 2005 and 2006 were the same, but either they aren't or the Clymer is wrong. Either way, I found all the screws attaching the lower fairing, and managed to wiggle the fairing off.

While looking around, I decided not to go further, as I didn't have adequate resources to make sure I did everything right, being that the Clymer was untrustworthy. I then tried to line up the screw holes for the lower fairing. Wow, this is unsettling, none of the holes will line up at the same time.

After about an hour of playing around, cajoling, and cursing, I've admitted to...a temporary setback. I'm now inside cooling down, and searched previous posts and the HoW, but didn't come across the right answer. Actually, my girlfriend told me to go inside and cool down, as she could hear me cursing and glancing at the deadblow hammer.

So...advice, help, and especially pictures would be incredibly appreciated.

Thanks,

Adam
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post #2 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 3:15 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browad

So...advice, help, and especially pictures would be incredibly appreciated.

Thanks,
First off, when you get the side panel off, look on the inside near the top. There is a small tab that inserts into a slot on the radio housing, the "stingray" if you will. When you get that in right, the holes will line up. The first screw I put in is the one under the small glove box lock cover. The rest will fall into place. Good luck!

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post #3 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 3:21 pm Thread Starter
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Tab on top...

Yeah, I tried that combination. No such luck. The other holes are still radically off, especially the lower front corner, which is over 2 inches rearward of the hole. I've tried flexing the plastic over the frame to try and stretch it where it needs to go, but that never seems to work quite right. It doesn't stretch either enough, or I don't want to force the issue without some advice.

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post #4 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 3:24 pm
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Adam,

Relax we can help.

I am at work so I don't have any pic's here. You stated lower faring - did you mean the silver color or the blue color? If you mean the side blue then you still have two screws under the turn signal lamp to remove. (I have not seen the instructions in the Clymer yet but I have had this one stripped down to parade rest several times. In the crash bar area there are 3 screws that are long and go into well nuts. One under the seat and one under the oddments lid. There there is one under the little panel just under the lid latch in the center. One up under the winglet (you called ait a lower windshield) and the two up under the turn signal lamp. Once you have them all loose you have to jockey the piece to get it to pop free of the stingray. It has a slot that fits into a groove in there. Hope this helps.

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post #5 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 3:26 pm Thread Starter
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I tend to ramble on in my posts, and I was a bit unclear. I have the blue side panel already off, but can't get it back on.

Adam
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post #6 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 3:29 pm
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If you want give me a call here at work and I can see if I can help. 256-842-0319.

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post #7 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 3:31 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browad
Yeah, I tried that combination. No such luck. The other holes are still radically off, especially the lower front corner, which is over 2 inches rearward of the hole. I've tried flexing the plastic over the frame to try and stretch it where it needs to go, but that never seems to work quite right. It doesn't stretch either enough, or I don't want to force the issue without some advice.
Hmm. There is a section near the front that sort of straddles a frame tube. Perhaps that is not lined up just right. Are we talking about the large upper side panel, or the small lower one (under the crash bar)?

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post #8 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 3:56 pm Thread Starter
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Ok, I called John and he tried to walk me through a reinstall, and we had the same problems. I also noticed where some screws on the fairing are rubbing on the gas tank, so I really don't want to force things now.

Here are some photos.

Oh, and if there is someone in the Gainesville-North Fla area who could swing by, help me out in both putting my fairing back on and in drinking some celebratory beer after, that would be great.

Thanks all,
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post #9 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 4:00 pm
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Call me back I see the problem

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post #10 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 4:07 pm
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See attached drawings...

Here are the pertinent drawings from my BMW manual. Hope it helps. By the way. I am relatively new to this bike, but have been a bike mechanic for years. One HUGE difference in this bike and the others. This bike is engineered VERY well for fit and function. RULE: If you have to force it...something ain't right. don't force it. When it is in the right place it will go together/come apart.
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post #11 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 4:14 pm
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Now John...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
Call me back I see the problem

Please tell me how you see the problem in those pics. Not that I doubt that you do...I simply want to know too.

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post #12 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 4:21 pm
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fairing install

On the back of the panel, there is a U shaped plastic piece. Make sure it straddles the sub frame tube coming down from the nose cone. The upper panel's lower corner needs to be inside the lower fairing as well.



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post #13 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 4:24 pm
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Ooops. I see Muns was thinking along the same lines.



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post #14 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 4:26 pm Thread Starter
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John and I attempted to put it back again, and same issues. We have come to the solution that "something aint quite right". I am taking a breather, trying to sort things out again. Plus, my keyboard is now acting up and I have no apostraphe or backslash key. Great timing.

Everyone, thanks for all the help and please keep it coming. If you are in the area or see my problem and can help out, please call me at 352-283-1040.

Thanks again,

Adam
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post #15 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 4:45 pm
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By the photos, Raffy and jzeiler's guessed what I'm guessing too.
You are not alingh the inside panels to the front frame.
There are some plastic there, who looks like a deflector and it goes right over that frame bar who goes from the front nose to the lower radiator side.
The panel goes easy in this way: (at least for me)

1) put the top lip, near the radio (someone already told you to do that.
2) insert that plastic deflector in between the frame bar
3) pull the lower front corner under the lower plastic
4) put in the screw under the stingray, between the radio and the mirror
5) pop the rear pop-in bolt
6) put all the other screws
7) finish with the bumber.

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post #16 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 5:07 pm
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Cool Ah ha

Well not that this much matters but here is a comment and a concern

Comment:
1. I always put the side tupperware on from the back to the front. That is to say place the upper tab section on the tupperware that goes under the radio stingray first and before your bring it totally down (to lock into place) slide the tupperware backwards for the holes to line up by the seat and the oddments box. The remainder the tupperware then normally slips right on with a few wiggles here and there.

Concern:
1. I do not believe I have ever seen a gas tank with so much scratching on it near on the side near the exit of the cooling fans - yikes. This is cause for concern - I will assume (gulp) that this has been due to your unsuccessful attempts at getting the tupperware back on.

and finally never force anything it does fit and will fit.

If this doesn't work someone needs to shoot a video or do a webcam . . . any volunteers!!

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post #17 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 5:37 pm Thread Starter
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Yeah, I'm not going to try and force it anymore. Those scratches are pretty nasty. Still not sure what's going on, but whenever I get the tabs in by the oddments drawer, the front turn signal area pops out and down like it is in the pic previously, and the aft area by the post is 2 inches away from the receiver.

It feels like somehow the tupperware is blocked right around the fan exit port, and that throws the entire alignment off.

Again, thanks for all the help, and keep it coming.

Adam
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post #18 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 5:38 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Please tell me how you see the problem in those pics. Not that I doubt that you do...I simply want to know too.
I still think there are two tabs on the top that have to slide into the stingray slots. I just had it apart two weeks ago but I never think about it. Since I never have trouble with it. Done it at least 10 times for service and farkle install. It looks like he is not getting the forward tab down into the sting ray slot. It's just hard to do "remotely".

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post #19 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 5:46 pm
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Then the 2005 and 2006 bikes have an added tab. Previous year bikes (US spec) only had one tab.

Could explain why we can't figure it out. I have worked on an 05 but don't recall seeing two tabs.



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post #20 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 5:56 pm Thread Starter
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I've only got the one tab. See the pic for more.
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post #21 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 7:03 pm
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Ok one LONG tab that must go into the stingray slot. If you look back at the pics' #3 shows the back end in the slot but there is a gap up near the stingray junction. That is the part I see as not being in the slot.

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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #22 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 7:05 pm Thread Starter
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When I put that slot in the stingray, the turnsignal end pops out and down, while the lower portion leverages even farther out.

There is probably something really simple that I'm missing.

Adam
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post #23 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 7:11 pm
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Adam,


When I say tab I don't mean that little piece that is about 1 inch wide - I mean the 12" long tab that has to go INTO the long slot on the stingray. Maybe tab is not a good word for it.

John
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2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #24 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 7:13 pm Thread Starter
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Gotcha. If I put the entire "tab" in, it's even worse. Again, probably something simple.

Adam
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post #25 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 7:16 pm
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Just so we are clear it is the area between the arrows.
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post #26 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 7:50 pm
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Wonder if the issue is not inserting the small protruding tab in the right spot. From the looks of the pictures, it needs to be inserted further back towards the seat.

Raffy



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post #27 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 8:11 pm
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i pulled the tuperware off fro the first time on my 05. with th e help of these people and a whole lot of prince it will go back together. i was able to put the left side on quickly and the right side was very diffulcult but it did go on. somethime the best option is to sleep on it and go back the next day with a fresh attitude. sometimes you will see things then that you are not seeing now. good luck

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post #28 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 8:37 pm
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We used to say...

Quote:
Originally Posted by namrehwp
...somethime the best option is to sleep on it and go back the next day with a fresh attitude. sometimes you will see things then that you are not seeing now. good luck

...When you get angry, you get stupid. How true it is! Just give it a break for awhile...maybe sleep on it. I promise you, it is NOT a force-fit. It may be snug, but it doesn't have to be forced.

You are right...it is something simple. Just can't see the forest for the trees! I'll pray for you tonight! (I'm serious).

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post #29 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 8:48 pm Thread Starter
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Thank God

John called up and we were on the phone for about an hour working our way through it. The ******** thing is back on, and it will stay that way till the next tech session in my area. Holy crap that was frustrating.

Anyway, thanks to everyone out there who helped. Yes, it is definitely best to sleep on it, but I would not be bested by an inanimate object. And my girlfriend is in my ear saying that exact thing, along with "No one listens to me, no one does". Yeah...I won't be hearing that for awhile, will I?

Drinks are on me next tech session. Just make sure to keep the deadblow hammers away.

Oh yeah, I crossthreaded a nut for the windlet and it's on with a ziptie, but you know what? I am totally fine with that.

Hope everyone has a great night, and go Gators.

Cheers,

Adam
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post #30 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 9:19 pm
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post #31 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 10:57 pm
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all that and no happy ending...? Its like a bad massage parlour.


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post #32 of 37 Old Jan 11th, 2007, 11:07 pm
 
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Tuperware removal

Ariel Black There are two fantastic articles under the heading of "Tuperware" removal. The graphics are excellent and made the task of removing the panels easier than ever anticipated. I own a 2005 LT which is my second LT The assistance given by members of this webb site are second to none.
Bruce Western Australia
Quote:
Originally Posted by browad
Ok, I decided to try and get at my spark plugs to see how bad the fairing removal would go. That was my first mistake. My second mistake was in actually getting the fairing off.

I took off the mirror, lower windshield, radio cover, and crashbar. Then I noticed that my Clymer 1998-2005 LT repair guide's pics looked different than my bike. I had thought that the 2005 and 2006 were the same, but either they aren't or the Clymer is wrong. Either way, I found all the screws attaching the lower fairing, and managed to wiggle the fairing off.

While looking around, I decided not to go further, as I didn't have adequate resources to make sure I did everything right, being that the Clymer was untrustworthy. I then tried to line up the screw holes for the lower fairing. Wow, this is unsettling, none of the holes will line up at the same time.

After about an hour of playing around, cajoling, and cursing, I've admitted to...a temporary setback. I'm now inside cooling down, and searched previous posts and the HoW, but didn't come across the right answer. Actually, my girlfriend told me to go inside and cool down, as she could hear me cursing and glancing at the deadblow hammer.

So...advice, help, and especially pictures would be incredibly appreciated.

Thanks,
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post #33 of 37 Old Jan 12th, 2007, 6:43 am Thread Starter
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Problem...

As far as what the problem was...I really don't know. I am very unsatisfied with the way the tupperware went back on, as it did not go on smooth and easy, as seems to be the norm. But...it's on, and the bike runs.

Thanks again for all the posts and PMs with advice and offers of help.

Cheers,

Adam
2006 K1200LT 2001 Kawi KLR650
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post #34 of 37 Old Jan 12th, 2007, 1:32 pm
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Wink

So............Did we learn anything here, or was this a case of what my old flight instructor used to call "static between the headphones"??

If I have missed the learning take away, or as is frequently the case missed the entire point of the exercise, or otherwise insulted or misunderstood anyone feel free to abuse me as necessary.

Larry

Laurence Hendrick

2008 K1200GT, Dark Graphite (Oh my, so fast!)
2005 LT Ocean Blue (Sold and comfort will be missed, but not the weight)
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post #35 of 37 Old Jan 12th, 2007, 2:24 pm Thread Starter
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No, it was definitely a cause of the problem existing between the handlebars and the seat.

The takeaway experience is use the monkey see monkey do technique. Watch someone do it, and also have someone guide you do it if possible.

Adam
2006 K1200LT 2001 Kawi KLR650
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Last edited by browad; Jan 12th, 2007 at 2:29 pm.
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post #36 of 37 Old Jan 12th, 2007, 5:34 pm
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Tried searching "Tuperware removal" with no luck. Can you elaborate?
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post #37 of 37 Old Jan 12th, 2007, 6:22 pm Thread Starter
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I found this after the fact.

http://www.snafu.org/pics/k12lt/print.html

Adam
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