Alaska preparation - Page 3 - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #101 of 151 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 10:17 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Thanks, John, I was thinking it was the easiest ones to get a wrench on.

I only had 1.5 hours available this morning, but got the radiator refilled with fresh Prestone and got the wheel circuits flushed. I could only get 2.3 liters in even with burping the sight amount of air out of the top cross connect hose. May have a little trapped air or maybe the silicon hoses are a little smaller ID. Never checked past fill volume precisely so not sure how close to the 2.5 l book value my LT is. Maybe 2.3 is normal. Never have had air trouble in the past.

It has been nearly three years since I installed the Spieglers and the fluid looked quite good. Much better than the OEM fluid looked when I did the very first flush.

I do not suck the old fluid out of the ABS reservoir, just start with a full funnel and run it through pretty fast. So, the bag has a lot of old fluid in it at first. Left front looked like a good American beer. Right front had very little color like a cheap beer. The rear was darkest, but not terrible. Not even close to a good beer (Guinness). My first OEM flush looked like Guinness. Couldn’t even see through a 1/2” of it.
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post #102 of 151 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 10:23 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
I don't know how he would be doing that. When I am behind him until he is out of sight, I never see a brake light
I’ve never had the pleasure of riding with Dave. I don’t use the brakes much. I find that above 6,000 the engine braking is pretty effective in the twisties. Then again, I ride with Linda on the back most of the time so I am not running at 10/10ths.
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post #103 of 151 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 1:07 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Have any of you done the control circuits with the LT on your table lift? In the past, I have always had it on the ground where I could put it on the sidestand and turn the bars to get the master fairly level. I can’t do that in the wheel vise and I suspect fluid may dribble out if I remove the cover with the bike vertical and bars straight ahead.

I probably can loosen the wheel vise and turn the wheel to the side, but I have it on the centerstand and getting that down is a little bit of a challenge, though I have to do that before I can back it off the lift. I would like to leave it on the lift as it makes putting the lower fairings on much easier, but I have laid on the concrete before so I can do that again. I really like to do the brakes with the fairings off to avoid any chance of paint damage.

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post #104 of 151 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 2:06 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
Have any of you done the control circuits with the LT on your table lift? In the past, I have always had it on the ground where I could put it on the sidestand and turn the bars to get the master fairly level. I can’t do that in the wheel vise and I suspect fluid may dribble out if I remove the cover with the bike vertical and bars straight ahead.

I probably can loosen the wheel vise and turn the wheel to the side, but I have it on the centerstand and getting that down is a little bit of a challenge, though I have to do that before I can back it off the lift. I would like to leave it on the lift as it makes putting the lower fairings on much easier, but I have laid on the concrete before so I can do that again. I really like to do the brakes with the fairings off to avoid any chance of paint damage.
Don't have the wizzy brakes but the control circuit isn't motorized. I just did mine on the lift with the front in the chock and managed to get some air in because I went one pump too far. The reservoir doesn't hold nearly as much upright with the lid off so you only get a couple pumps before having to add more. I heard the dreaded slurp and I knew I was in for pumping a bunch more fluid through. I put as much in as it had when I started but I didn't compress and block the calipers like I should have. I don't think the control circuit drops in fluid over time like mine with break wear so it is likely to dump some fluid when you remove the covers if it was filled on the side when level and the bars turned.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #105 of 151 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 3:09 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Don't have the wizzy brakes but the control circuit isn't motorized. I just did mine on the lift with the front in the chock and managed to get some air in because I went one pump too far. The reservoir doesn't hold nearly as much upright with the lid off so you only get a couple pumps before having to add more. I heard the dreaded slurp and I knew I was in for pumping a bunch more fluid through. I put as much in as it had when I started but I didn't compress and block the calipers like I should have. I don't think the control circuit drops in fluid over time like mine with break wear so it is likely to dump some fluid when you remove the covers if it was filled on the side when level and the bars turned.
Dumping fluid would be my luck. I guess I will bite the bullet and take it off the lift and finish the job on ground level. I need to get my KLR on the lift anyway for its Thermo-Bob installation.

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post #106 of 151 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 8:39 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

Good idea I always have the bars turned to try and level the reservoir for a flush. I used to remove the switch gear and loosen the clamp to level the reservoir but that is too much work.

John
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post #107 of 151 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 9:15 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Good idea I always have the bars turned to try and level the reservoir for a flush. I used to remove the switch gear and loosen the clamp to level the reservoir but that is too much work.
Got the wife and kids to help roll it off the lift. I was trying to decide how best to raise the centerstand with the wheel in the vise when I saw a 3’ scrap 2x4. I put it under the rear tire (took a little push as the tire isn’t 1.5” off the deck) and found that it wasn’t that hard to raise the rear of the bike with the lever. My son raised the bike an inch or two and I was able to swing the centerstand up easy peasy.

I have to head out for a weekend trip and then am busy M-W of next week so may not get things polished off until the end of next week. Real close though. I just hope the old girl fires up when back together. Always has before, but there a so many chances to forget to connect something....

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post #108 of 151 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 9:23 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Always has before, but there a so many chances to forget to connect something....
Or plug the purge valve connector onto an injector Possibly leave that center bolt loose on the valve cover. Pitfalls everywhere!!!
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post #109 of 151 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 10:15 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Or plug the purge valve connector onto an injector Possibly leave that center bolt loose on the valve cover. Pitfalls everywhere!!!
Come on now, nobody would ever forget the center valve cover bolt. That’s just silly.

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post #110 of 151 Old Apr 12th, 2019, 6:59 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Come on now, nobody would ever forget the center valve cover bolt. That’s just silly.
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post #111 of 151 Old Apr 12th, 2019, 7:08 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Come on now, cheer up and go for a ride!

I got my LT off the lift so I am getting closer to a ride. Just the control circuits, clutch and sidestand grease and then putting all the parts back on. I wish I wasn’t busy the next 5 days...

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post #112 of 151 Old Apr 12th, 2019, 7:46 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
Or plug the purge valve connector onto an injector
I resemble that remark!

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
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post #113 of 151 Old Apr 12th, 2019, 8:00 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
Come on now, cheer up and go for a ride!

I got my LT off the lift so I am getting closer to a ride. Just the control circuits, clutch and sidestand grease and then putting all the parts back on. I wish I wasn’t busy the next 5 days...
I was going to do my clutch but stripped out the grub screw trying to get it out of the check ball thingy so will deal with that at a later date.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #114 of 151 Old Apr 12th, 2019, 8:01 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

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I resemble that remark!
Yeah, me too but I caught it on a double check and smacked myself a little. Now my purge valve is completely removed. Not a necessary thing.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT – Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #115 of 151 Old Apr 12th, 2019, 8:20 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

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I must be doing something wrong when I'm riding in the mountains because I've worn out a set of front pads in four days. I've had to replace the rotors twice on my 2004LT.
I never use my brakes in the mountains, I do all speed control with the engine. Maybe that is why I had to re-ring the bike after 90,000 miles of doing that.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #116 of 151 Old Apr 12th, 2019, 9:01 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

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I never use my brakes in the mountains, I do all speed control with the engine. Maybe that is why I had to re-ring the bike after 90,000 miles of doing that.
When we get to the end of Hwy 63 where it meets Hwy 209 my brakes are smoking hot & you can smell the brake dust.
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post #117 of 151 Old Apr 12th, 2019, 1:11 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Well, flushed the control circuits today and had an unpleasant surprise. The front master cylinder has gained enough drag so that the spring alone only slowly returns the piston. It works fine with pressure against it, but during the flush it was sluggish returning, mainly the last 1/4” or so of travel when it would almost snap back. Looks like the seals have swelled a little or there is some corrosion or gunk in the cylinder. I can’t believe it is gunk as the fluid looked almost new. At most a light amber color.

I decided to flush the clutch since I had all the stuff out and it also looked almost new. And the clutch seemed to have a little more drag than normal also. I suspect it is just the seals aging. I assume BMW sells rebuild kits, but I haven’t looked into that yet. I suspect my next flush will also include a master cylinder rebuild.

I started assembly and hit a snag putting the gas tank on. I had not used long enough hose on the fuel lines coming out of the tank so the QDs were too far rearward to mate with the ones on the bike. So, took the tank back off and have to do a little more fuel line work. It does look like things will be a little more congested with the clamps and such for the SS elbows. Looking back on it, I would probably just pay the money next time for the gold plated OEM lines. Not sure the effort required to use regular unformed fuel line is worth it.

And I forgot how much of a pain it was to install that blasted air box and tighten those clamps with no room to get hands or tools in there.

Well, got 5 days of travel and board meetings so get a few days “off” before getting back into the LT.
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post #118 of 151 Old Apr 13th, 2019, 10:32 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
Have any of you done the control circuits with the LT on your table lift? In the past, I have always had it on the ground where I could put it on the sidestand and turn the bars to get the master fairly level. I can’t do that in the wheel vise and I suspect fluid may dribble out if I remove the cover with the bike vertical and bars straight ahead.

I probably can loosen the wheel vise and turn the wheel to the side, but I have it on the centerstand and getting that down is a little bit of a challenge, though I have to do that before I can back it off the lift. I would like to leave it on the lift as it makes putting the lower fairings on much easier, but I have laid on the concrete before so I can do that again. I really like to do the brakes with the fairings off to avoid any chance of paint damage.
This is how I do mine.
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post #119 of 151 Old Apr 18th, 2019, 11:34 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

It’s alive again!

And makes the same sounds it has always made so that is a good thing. It had be worried for a short time. I have never had the fuel lines completely drained before, inside the tank and out and it took a lot longer to fire than I was expecting. I cranked it probably 8-10 seconds with absolutely nothing. I had heard the fuel pump do its initial prime so I knew that was plugged in and I have the plug labeled so I knew it was the right plug. After checking for fuel leaks and such, I tried it again. Another 8-10 seconds and nothing. I then checked again for things like the kill switch and so forth and everything looked OK. I decided to give it one more try and then take a break and start reading the manual and deciding what to investigate first. Hit the key on the third try and it fired up almost immediately and settled into a pretty good idle.

I took this video and let it idle for probably a couple of minutes until I saw the temp gauge begin to budge. I then decided to rev it a little and as soon as I opened the throttle it died. I cranked another 6 or so seconds before it finally fired again. I am guessing maybe it still had an air bubble that got sucked into the injectors, but not really sure. However, after this time it took throttle fine and I let it idle to make sure the fans were working and to start purging any last air from the cooling system.


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2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
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post #120 of 151 Old Apr 18th, 2019, 11:37 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

The valve train sounds pretty normal after my valve adjustment and so far I see no leaks. Then again, this video was taken after only a few minutes of idling so I will check things over again after it cools down from its first “till the fans come one twice” warm up.


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post #121 of 151 Old Apr 18th, 2019, 11:43 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

My LT took a leak once it got hot enough to kick on the fans.

I made the mistake of filling the overflow tank before I filled the radiators. I had enough coolant run down the hose during my slow topping off process (massaging the upper hose to get the last air out of the pocket formed by the U in the hose) to get the tank about 3/4” above the full line. And, as usual, BMW has engineering things to the nth degree so apparently when the tank is at full when cold, it will be exactly at the top of the filler neck when the engine is hot. And if you are a little over full, it will piss out the cap.

I only lost a little coolant so I just soaked it up with paper towels and waited until it stopped. I suspect now it will be precisely at the full line once it fully cools. BMW would have it no other way.

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post #122 of 151 Old Apr 19th, 2019, 5:54 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

I spent the better part of the afternoon putting all the parts back on. It took about an hour longer than it should have as I had to remove the center section of the lower fairing twice to resolve clamp conflicts. I put it on the first time and thought it looked great as none of the hoses contacted the fairing as with Gordon’s installation. Then as I took a flashlight for a closer inspection, I saw that the left lower radiator clamp was hitting the fairing. So, I removed the center section and turned that clamp to the side as shown in the one photo below, but I didn’t move any other clamps as they had not been making contact.

Unfortunately, that changed when I installed the fairing again. Then the right radiator clamp made contact as well as the cross-over clamp on the left radiator. So, removed the fairing again and spun both of those clamps out of the way. I was really regretting not taking pictures of the original clamp orientations before I removed the OEM hoses. The third attempt at installing the center section found no contact with any clamps, but now the crossover hose touches the fairing. The left hose, which Gordon had trouble with, fortunately does not make contact. The contact with the cross-over hose seems light so I am going to run it for a while and keep an eye on it. I can probably insert a piece of split fuel line on the edge of the fairing if it begins to do any damage to the hoses. I suspect they will take a fair bit of abuse.

So, other than greasing the side stand and plugging in the GS-911 for a code check and bleed test, it is finished and ready to ride! Although it will take a couple of hours to get my tools picked up and the workshop cleaned up a little.

The RDL seat looks and feels nice at first try. My only complaint is that with the backrest in place, there is no way to raise the driver’s seat to check the battery or access the helmet lock hook as the backrest adjustment knob interferes. So, the knob has be be unscrewed and removed completely every time one wants to access anything under the seat. Not the best design.
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post #123 of 151 Old Apr 19th, 2019, 8:51 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

I guess you got the seat with an integral backrest? I never had an issue with my RDL and the BakUp back rest.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
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post #124 of 151 Old Apr 19th, 2019, 9:25 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
I guess you got the seat with an integral backrest? I never had an issue with my RDL and the BakUp back rest.
Yes, I bought the RDL backrest. It has a wide adjustment range for and aft, which is nice, but the knob is huge and sticks so far forward that the seat can’t be raised. I will take a picture when I think about it.

I’m going to look at it more closely and see if I can modify it so that it can be quickly removed. Not sure that is possible given the design, but need to give it some thought.

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post #125 of 151 Old May 6th, 2019, 10:08 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Installed my Vstream shield today. Here are a few pictures showing comparison to the stock shield, how it looks on the bike and a few minor niggles I have with it. I haven’t test ridden it yet and won’t get to that until later this week as I am heading out of town on a short business trip.

I got the tall shield from National Cycle and it is a fair bit larger than the stock shield, maybe 3/4-1” taller and much wider at the top. It seems to be the same thickness and stiffness which is good. It fit the mounting holes well, although getting their little metal bushings in place was a little challenging working alone. I didn’t want to drop one down inside the nose fairing, so I ended up putting a couple screws in to hold the shield in place and then went back and put in the bushings and screws one by one. Once I had all of the screws in place and snugged down a little to hold the shield in place (I pushed upward on it so that all play was taken out below the bolts/bushings), I went back and removed the screws one at a time to apply a drop of blue thread locker.

The three minor niggles I have are:

1. The contour of the bottom of the shield is a little different than stock so the tips of the chrome trim pieces touch the shield, but there is a gap of at least 1/16” in the midsection of the trim pieces. They were a pretty close fit on the OEM shield.

2. With the shield fully down, the shield contacts the right side bumper, but is about 1/16” off of the left side. It appears wind pressure will push it onto the bumper as I could make it contact the bumper by pulling back just a little on the top of the shield. So, I expect it won’t vibrate while riding, but it may in town so I may have to loosen the screws and try to adjust it a little. If I were to install it again, I think I would lower the shield before tightening the screws and try to get it snug against both bumpers. However, I was following the Clymer manual which said to raise the shield before removing it.

3. I noticed that the shield nearly touches the fairing when in the fully down position. So, I raised the shield watching it closely and sure enough it actually hits the fairing as it comes off the bumpers, maybe say 1/2” off the bumper. I checked both sides and both sides rub against the fairing as the shield is raised and lowered just before the fully down position. Probably not a big deal as it will just wear off the paint eventually in an area where it probably won’t be noticeable. I don’t much care on a 12 year old bike, but if this were a new bike, I’d probably either send the shield back or try to trim it if the manufacturer would not take it back.
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post #126 of 151 Old May 6th, 2019, 10:15 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

Looks like they updated the shape from when I bought mine in 2008. I never had any of the issues you have and the distortion I had was up at the top out board area of the shield.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
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2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
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post #127 of 151 Old May 6th, 2019, 10:18 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Looks like they updated the shape from when I bought mine in 2008. I never had any of the issues you have and the distortion I had was up at the top out board area of the shield.
I can’t say for sure until I ride it, but I held both the stock shield and the stream up and looked through both after I washed them and I really could not see any more distortion in the Vstream than in the OEM. Both have some distortion. The proof will be in the test ride though. Hopefully, Wednesday or Thursday.

I will add that I was surprised at how good the OEM shield still was. Sitting beside the new Vstream, there was no detectable yellowing and the view through them did not look as different as I expected. The old shield does glare more in the sun though as the micro scratches really show up then. However, for 12 years of UV and 74,000 miles, many on dirt roads, the OEM shield has held up very well. I am saving it as I certainly would use it again without hesitation.

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post #128 of 151 Old May 7th, 2019, 1:42 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

The Lidlox arrived and the owner even through in some shorter SS hardware that he thought I might need when I explained how I planned to mount his products (not to the handlebars as intended). The parts are well packaged and look nice. If they work as well as they look, they will have been worth the money.

Now time to remove the top case and bend and paint some aluminum. This is where an acetylene welding torch would be handy, but I should be blue to get the aluminum hot enough with propane to bend without cracking.
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2017 KLR650 "Mule"
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post #129 of 151 Old May 7th, 2019, 3:06 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
The Lidlox arrived and the owner even through in some shorter SS hardware that he thought I might need when I explained how I planned to mount his products (not to the handlebars as intended). The parts are well packaged and look nice. If they work as well as they look, they will have been worth the money.

Now time to remove the top case and bend and paint some aluminum. This is where an acetylene welding torch would be handy, but I should be blue to get the aluminum hot enough with propane to bend without cracking.
Want to see what this looks like when you are done.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI – Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
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post #130 of 151 Old May 7th, 2019, 8:14 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
Now time to remove the top case and bend and paint some aluminum. This is where an acetylene welding torch would be handy, but I should be blue to get the aluminum hot enough with propane to bend without cracking.
5052 will bend forever without cracking with no heat applied, 6061-T6 will crack in a heart beat unless you change its temper first.

John
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post #131 of 151 Old May 7th, 2019, 9:16 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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5052 will bend forever without cracking with no heat applied, 6061-T6 will crack in a heart beat unless you change its temper first.
I have no idea what the stock sold at Lowe’s is. I will look at it again but I don’t recall seeing any alloy marking on it. I could have spend the big bucks and ordered from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty, but I figured it was easier to just assume it needs heat.

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post #132 of 151 Old May 8th, 2019, 1:45 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

As with most things LT, it is never as easy as you think/hope it will be.

Started on the helmet lock project today and ran into a snag almost immediately. I checked the trunk attach bolts when I removed them to see how much thread engagement there was to tolerate an additional 1/8” of thickness. As it turns out, probably not enough. The bolts have maybe 1/4” of space between the head and the trunk when the threads engage. So, taking out 1/8” would make things iffy on the thread engagement. However, that isn’t the biggest challenge.

I think I see what Lynn was recollecting in regards to “shaping” the bar stock. The trunk has spacers under it that are probably 1/8” or so thick. This is to allow the trunk to clear the other bolt heads that hold the plastic cover in place (and maybe other things, I can’t remember what is under that cover). If I put the aluminum bars in there, the trunk will sit 1/4” or more higher than it does now as the bar stock will rest on top of the bolt heads which are 1/8” or so proud and then the spacers will add another 1/8” which means the stock bolts won’t engage at all. I was hoping I could just remove the spaces from the trunk and put them under my bar stock in which case I think it would have been just the extra 1/8” from the bar. However, they appear to have a collar above the spacer that is a press fit into the trunk so looks like removing them would be a challenge.

My next thought was to drill a large hole in the bar stock so that the spacer would go down through the bar. I would need also large holes over top of the other bolt heads for clearance. This looks like it might work really well, with the issue of the bars might rattle a little as they now would just be held by the spacers with no compression from the trunk bolts, but it looks like the plastic cover is above where the spacers sit so that cover would be compressed against the bar and probably would hold it tight. The good news is that this would not raise the trunk much so the stock bolts would still have good engagement. The bad news is that this spacer is at least 3/4” in diameter and a hole that big in my 1” wide stock would not leave much metal left for strength. However, I can get 1.5” wide stock which would allow 3/8” or slightly less on each side of the hole. I think the clearance holes for the bolt heads need to be at least 3/4” also and maybe even a little larger.

So, that is probably the approach I will take tomorrow, but need to return the 1” bar and get 1.5” and also see if I can buy a 3/4” diameter bit. Unless anyone here has another thought that I am overlooking?
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2017 KLR650 "Mule"
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post #133 of 151 Old May 8th, 2019, 6:05 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

Buy one of those "stepped" bits it is the best way to drill a hole in thin stock. HF has them pretty cheap and they work very well.
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2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
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post #134 of 151 Old May 8th, 2019, 7:05 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Quote:
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Buy one of those "stepped" bits it is the best way to drill a hole in thin stock. HF has them pretty cheap and they work very well.
That’s a good thought. I keep thinking about getting one of those, but never have. Now looks like the time. No HF near me, but I suspect the price at Lowe’s won’t be too bad. It if is, I can get one from Amazon in a day or two.

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post #135 of 151 Old May 18th, 2019, 2:25 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Anyone know what is unusual about this picture?
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post #136 of 151 Old May 18th, 2019, 3:06 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Anyone know what is unusual about this picture?
Its too clean. It does not look like the pipe is pointing down. Your picture is 90-degrees off, or your bike is on its side.

Mike Trevelino
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post #137 of 151 Old May 18th, 2019, 3:16 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Its too clean. It does not look like the pipe is pointing down. Your picture is 90-degrees off, or your bike is on its side.
The LT is not napping. The forum software seems to randomly rotate my uploads. Clean is the unusual thing. I spent 30 minutes cleaning off the carbon build-up. I should have taken a before picture.

Monday’s tasks are waxing, oil change and mount new shoes front and rear. Then pack Tuesday night and launch for Alaska Wednesday morning.

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post #138 of 151 Old May 18th, 2019, 7:14 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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I spent 30 minutes cleaning off the carbon build-up. I should have taken a before picture.
I use a sodium hydroxide based degreaser on mine one shot and a tooth brush and a quick wipe with a paper towel and it is all gone. Takes 1 minute. Have a good ride my friend. And I fixed the picture.

John
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2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
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post #139 of 151 Old May 18th, 2019, 7:52 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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I use a sodium hydroxide based degreaser on mine one shot and a tooth brush and a quick wipe with a paper towel and it is all gone. Takes 1 minute. Have a good ride my friend. And I fixed the picture.
I had a 30 year old can of Gunk bug and tar remover that I wanted to finish off as the can was starting to rust. It was slow, but eventually got there. What brand of degreaser do you use that has lye in it?

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post #140 of 151 Old May 18th, 2019, 10:40 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

Castrol Super Clean. Purple liquid and it works very well. There is another brand called Purple Power that is not as strong (it doesn't make me choke when I use it like the Castrol does).

John
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post #141 of 151 Old May 19th, 2019, 6:41 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Castrol Super Clean. Purple liquid and it works very well. There is another brand called Purple Power that is not as strong (it doesn't make me choke when I use it like the Castrol does).
I searched on Amazon and found this, but it says nothing about being made my Castrol. Probably not the right stuff. Do you buy yours online or have a local supplier?
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post #142 of 151 Old May 19th, 2019, 12:54 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

My bad, Mine does not say Castrol either. Maybe it was once upon a time as I have been using it for years. I get the gallon jug at Advance Auto Parts.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
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2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #143 of 151 Old May 19th, 2019, 1:00 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

I use carb cleaner in a spray can.

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2000 Canon Red LT



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post #144 of 151 Old May 19th, 2019, 2:22 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Washed and waxed with Collinite 845 insulator wax. Good stuff.

Tomorrow is tire change and oil change day and then launch Wednesday AM if all goes according to plan.

I suspect my LT will never look this good again after the Alcan, Cassiar and possibly lower part of the Dalton.
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post #145 of 151 Old May 19th, 2019, 3:17 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
Tomorrow is tire change and oil change day and then launch Wednesday AM if all goes according to plan.
Safe travels!!!! And lots of pictures!
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post #146 of 151 Old May 19th, 2019, 4:57 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Safe travels!!!! And lots of pictures!
Thanks. Yes, Linda will snap a picture now and then. We had over 1,000 for 12 days of riding in the Alps.

I will probably start a thread over in the Ride Tales area and post when I have wifi availability. Keeping with the BMW owner tradition, I am too cheap to buy a wireless plan for Canada after Verizon raised the price for a 1 month international plan from $30 to $66.50. So, I will just use pay as you go should there be an emergency.

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post #147 of 151 Old May 20th, 2019, 1:38 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

With all of the major work you did on the LT are you planning on taking a 100+ mile test ride locally before you start to Alaska? My normal process when doing major work before a long trip is to take a 250 mile extended ride after a 30 mile local ride. I would rather deal with problems in my home territory.

Enjoy your adventure!
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post #148 of 151 Old May 20th, 2019, 5:33 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by rspyder View Post
With all of the major work you did on the LT are you planning on taking a 100+ mile test ride locally before you start to Alaska? My normal process when doing major work before a long trip is to take a 250 mile extended ride after a 30 mile local ride. I would rather deal with problems in my home territory.

Enjoy your adventure!
Absolutely. I took a couple of local rides and then about a 130 mile ride last week. Today I mounted two new tires and then took a short ride to ensure they were balanced reasonably well and also to top off fuel for the Wednesday departure. So far, all looks good.
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2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #149 of 151 Old May 20th, 2019, 6:04 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
Absolutely. I took a couple of local rides and then about a 130 mile ride last week. Today I mounted two new tires and then took a short ride to ensure they were balanced reasonably well and also to top off fuel for the Wednesday departure. So far, all looks good.
Time for a new thread. Keep the updates coming.
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post #150 of 151 Old May 21st, 2019, 5:34 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Time for a new thread. Keep the updates coming.
True that. Here is my final post in this thread. I am surprised, given the many accounts I have read about sight glasses that have turned dark, that mine is still very readable after 73,000+ miles, 12 years and at least as many oil changes. Clean oil makes it a little harder to see the level, but the meniscus is still quite visible.

The other thing that I have noticed over the years is that fresh oil in my LT turns dark rather quickly compared to my other vehicles. It seems as though there is a fair bit of old oil left behind. Yesterday, I rode my bike probably 20 miles to get fuel so it was very hot when I changed the oil. I actually had to let it drain for 30 minutes to cool enough to get the oil filter out without burning my fingers. And I always remove the drain plug as well as the filter cover and generally let it drain for 30 minutes while I do other stuff. Even so, it seems to me that a fair bit of old oil remains.

I should have taken a picture as after idling for a few minutes, the level was just above midpoint in the glass. So, I added a third of a quart or so to bring it to the top of the sight glass. I could clearly see the line between the added oil and the new oil that had seen maybe 60 seconds of idling. The oil below the original level was much darker than the fresh from the bottle that was on top. I had to idle the engine again briefly to mix the oil to remove the dark vs. light line. Anyone else experience this in their LT? This is in contrast to my cars where I often need 500 miles for the fresh oil to get dark enough to make reading the dipstick easy.

Last comment is that I am happy to say that my theory about the rearmost oil filter cover screw was correct. Some of you may recall that after I did my clutch job, I found that I could no longer remove all of the filter cover screws. The rearmost screw hit the EHCS frame so hard that I feared removing it would have stripped it. So, I had to make several oil changes by lowering the EHCS which makes a painful job even more painful. As part of my winter work on the LT, I loosened the entire side and center stand assembly and held it rearward with a pry bar as I torqued it back into place. This has restored the requisite clearance for that one screw. So, if you have an LT and are unable to remove all of the filter cover screws, you may want to loosen the stand attachment bolts and remove any slack at the rear of the attachment bolts and then retighten. Assuming you haven’t bent the EHCS frame with a hard hit, this may give you the clearance you need to remove that cover without having to lower the EHCS frame.
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2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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