Alaska preparation - Page 2 - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #51 of 124 Old Feb 16th, 2019, 6:12 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

I pressed out the EME bearings as I decided it was simply too risky to use them and risk them seizing and spinning in the housing or on the pivot pins potentially ruining some expensive parts.

I found that they spin reasonably well both directions when under no axial preload as when you put your finger in the inner race and spin the outer around without pushing against the taper. However, add any significant load and both bearings will only spin CCW. Very weird. I am wondering if the cage is not completely parallel to the bearing axis and thus is causing the rollers to climb up the taper in one direction, but go down the taper when spun the other way causing them to bind agains the cage and/or race. A sketchy theory, but hard to image what else would cause this very consistent one-way only rotation.

I looked the bearings over pretty carefully and I see no manufacturer engraved on them, just what appears to be part of the EME part number from the package fairly faintly etched into the outer race. I am going to hold off ordering the BMW parts until I hear back from EME, but if their only offer is another set of these obvious knock-off parts, I will request a refund. Only if they offer FAG bearings as shown in their advertisement photo will I stick with EME. This is my first purchase from them and I admit I feel quite intentionally misled given the picture on their web site.
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post #52 of 124 Old Feb 18th, 2019, 2:41 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

No word yet from EME so I decided to pull the cams and get the valve shims replaced. I got the plugs out and then realized I had no easy way to turn the engine over the set the pistons halfway through their travel. Oh well, I am not in a big hurry as yet given that we are a good 6 weeks away from anything resembling riding weather here.

The plugs look great after 20,000 miles, but I will swap them since I have them out and have new ones. BMWs 12K change interval is a joke. I think even 48K would not be impossible. Certainly, 24K is very reasonable. The #1 plug is a little darker than the others, but none looked all that bad.

Given some discussion about the need for the formed BMW fuel hoses, I bent a piece of the bulk hose alongside one of the 180 bends on the bottom of the tank. I could match the radius with only a slight narrowing of the hose at the apex of the bend. I think there is enough room for the radius to be a little larger than stock and I think that will be fine with eh bulk hose. I will make a final decision on that once I get the tank back on the bike and see how much clearance there is. If I can find springs that will fit around the outside of the hoses, I may install them on the tight bends as insurance, but I am really not sure it is required.
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post #53 of 124 Old Feb 18th, 2019, 4:44 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

I heard back from EME. They were very understanding. The first email explained that they had originally had FAG bearings, but had switched to a suppler from the Netherlands. I suspect to lower the price, but that wasnít stated in the email. I received a second email when I asked about an RMA number. I am including it here mainly to show the impressive customer support.

ďHey Matt,

No I have noted your account and have in fact refunded you for both purchases already.

We would appreciate getting those back so we can send them to the supplier.

PS: The supplier does mention that these are ďnotchyĒ due to the plastic cage and are fine under load, however I personally would not want these on my vehicle either and he can have them back.Ē

I have ordered the gold plated BMW bearings and they were in stock at Max so the two bearings and my M&Ms should be here this week.

On a side note, I have done some additional research on the fuel line situation. I think I may have found a nice solution not only to the in-tank u-hose, but to the external 180 and even 90 degree bends. I found a company that sells a reasonably priced tubing bead former and I can buy 15í of steel 5/16Ē fuel line for not much money. Actually, the tool, the steel line and the Gates Barricade FI tubing all together cost about the same as the full set of BMW formed hoses. It should be fairly easy to make metal beaded tubes to replace the u-hose in the tank and any external bends. It will require a few more clamps, but good FI clamps are fairly inexpensive. I havenít pulled the trigger yet as I am awaiting an answer as to whether the PVF coating on the steel fuel line will interfere with the beading operation.
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post #54 of 124 Old Feb 19th, 2019, 1:15 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

But I gots to ask myself, why did the Factory use flex hose if they could have used steel...

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post #55 of 124 Old Feb 19th, 2019, 4:55 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by alabrew View Post
But I gots to ask myself, why did the Factory use flex hose if they could have used steel...
Cheaper assembly cost and more profit on replacement.
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post #56 of 124 Old Feb 19th, 2019, 4:59 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
I got the plugs out and then realized I had no easy way to turn the engine over the set the pistons halfway through their travel.
The engine will turn very easily with the plugs out and the transmission in first gear, you should be able to reach up to the drive shaft and move it.

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post #57 of 124 Old Feb 19th, 2019, 6:41 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Cheaper assembly cost and more profit on replacement.
Those were my guesses also. If you look at most cars, steel or aluminum fuel line is used predominately except where the connection to the tank is made and the connection to the engine where vibration may occur. Same for brake lines. Rubber is only used where things need to move. BMW should have used metal for the sharp bends, but then they could not sell expensive parts for the next 20 years as the rubber lines would be short, straight sections that you could buy at any auto parts store. Where is the profit in that?

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post #58 of 124 Old Feb 19th, 2019, 6:43 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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The engine will turn very easily with the plugs out and the transmission in first gear, you should be able to reach up to the drive shaft and move it.
If I get bored, I will give that a try. I figured I could not get enough grasp on the drive shaft to rotate the engine, but I did not try. I suspect the bearings will be here shortly so I will probably just get the FD back in place and spin the tire and make life easy.

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post #59 of 124 Old Feb 19th, 2019, 9:32 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

I made a mistake on first gear, 5th would be better. It was real easy to rotate the engine with an 8 mm allen from the front before I had all the cam gear on. It was a bit harder with the cams moving as well on so you may not be able to do it.

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post #60 of 124 Old Feb 20th, 2019, 8:48 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

That's really odd because I just recently purchased a set from EME while they were still in stock and they were marked FAG and installed with no problem. Races were very smooth in both directions. Installed the FD, preloaded the bearings to spec and the FD movement was very smooth up/down. After reading more of your posts it appears you got a different product. Glad you were able to get some satisfaction from EME

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post #61 of 124 Old Feb 20th, 2019, 10:14 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by Bob.K1200LT View Post
That's really odd because I just recently purchased a set from EME while they were still in stock and they were marked FAG and installed with no problem. Races were very smooth in both directions. Installed the FD, preloaded the bearings to spec and the FD movement was very smooth up/down. After reading more of your posts it appears you got a different product. Glad you were able to get some satisfaction from EME
Yes, I did not post the first email from EME, but they told me they had switched suppliers and had not yet updated their web site photo. The bearings I got were NOT FAG and EME appears to no longer be able to obtain them. They did not tell me why, but I will bet you a coffee and donut that FAG got a call from BMWís lawyers much as Magura did reminding them their supply agreement with BMW precluded selling those products to anyone other than BMW.

Yes, that is absolutely speculation on my part, but I believe it is reasonable speculation based on the incident with Magura and BBY in relation to the clutch slave cylinders.

EME said the bearings I got were sourced from a supplier in the Netherlands, but I again will bet a coffee and donut that they were actually made in China. They had all of the characteristics - no manufacturer marking and poor quality.

Thankfully, EME is a stand-up company and issued refunds before I even sent the bearings back. Well, at least the refund for the direct EME web site purchase came through already. The one for the ebay purchase seems still in PayPal limbo.

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post #62 of 124 Old Feb 25th, 2019, 9:51 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

I think my working on the LT is jinxed this year. I had a full 4 hours free this morning so I hit the shop at 7:30 and about 30 minutes into it the power goes out. We are having very high winds (50-60 mph gusts) which I suspect is the root cause.

My shop has windows, but without the overhead LEDs it is hard to see fine stuff. I got my new gold-plated BMW pivot bearings driven in without issue. And they spin as smooth as a babyís behind. I finished the FD installation and filled it with oil and called it a day. Valves are next and I just need more light for that. I am hoping for better luck getting the tensioner pin in this time. Last time I did not get it in correctly and as soon as I removed the first sprocket, the chain and sprocket were pulled into the engine. Fortunately, when I went to install the cams, I was able to easily push down the tensioner and get the pin into place.

I got lucky today and the driveshaft splines slid together like butter. I tried the rag last time and that didnít work so well. So this time I just got the phasing lined up, at least I hope I did as it is nearly impossible to see up inside the swing arm, and let the drive shaft sit on the bottom of the swing arm. I held the FD in place with my scissor platform jack and slowly slide it forward and let the front of the rear driveshaft ride along the bottom of the swing arm. It slide right up and into the front driveshaft like a magic force was guiding it. Usually I spend several minutes futzing with the engagement of those shafts.

The swingarm now swings smooth and free with no drag as with the bushings. I was happy to throw the JL bushings in the hopper. They were pretty gnarly after 50,000 miles. The pin had worn into the bushing on the adjustable pin and brass had transferred to the pin. Not sure the attached pictures will show it, but you can see the shiny brass color on the pin in good light. Unfortunately, with the power out, I had only ambient light.

Definitely glad I took that apart. I donít think I would have made it to Alaska and back given the condition of those pins and bushings. Now, if I can get some power back, I can get the valves wrapped up and move on to what was intended to be my main work this winter, fuel lines, radiator hoses and the normal 24K maintenance stuff.

Here is what good bearings look like:

And here is how an FD should pivot:
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post #63 of 124 Old Feb 25th, 2019, 3:22 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
...
..... Valves are next and I just need more light for that. I am hoping for better luck getting the tensioner pin in this time. Last time I did not get it in correctly and as soon as I removed the first sprocket, the chain and sprocket were pulled into the engine. Fortunately, when I went to install the cams, I was able to easily push down the tensioner and get the pin into place.
....
...
I
Matt,
Your post above just reminded me to give a warning to all adjusting their own valves.

Although I had done valves adjust / bucket changes many times on the K1200 "brick-engine" , last year I got a nasty surprise doing one such job on mine. I have a drill bit of correct size (1/8 inch) with a tape marking so that I know IF it is inserted fully in tensionner - but somehow the tape mark must have slid / moved since my last usage of the drill bit.

I had in the past ALSO done the sealing of a Timing-Chain Cover twice , so I was well aware of the job this pin / drill bit does inside (altough you are working "blind" when pushing on tensioner rail and inserting this drill bit). BUT, WHAT I WAS NOT AWARE was the fact that the tensionner PISTON will slip past the drill bit if the end is not fully inserted as shown in Photo 1 (at this point you are missing only 4 mm of insertion).

SO... like you have mentioned above in your last job, the tensioner piston can pop back up, timing chain becomes more tight, and I had to fight with this thinking my depth was suppose to be OK (tape mark had moved so was not OK).

The moral here is make a permanent mark on your Pin / drill bit at 1.38 inch (35 mm) and use this to gauge if the tensioner piston is fully locked. The beginning or edge of your measurement is the outside of the timing chain cover (at ridge of the bolt hole).

Hard to explain in words, so I have attached 2 photos with notes...
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post #64 of 124 Old Feb 25th, 2019, 4:02 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

Well stated John. Back when CCR was in full swing I made up a bunch of these tensioner pins and gave them away at my tech sessions. They are made out of 1/8 inch music wire (model airplane hobby shops) and have a nice "handle". Once pushed all the way in you can also confirm engagement as they will turn in only one direction if they are holding the piston.
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post #65 of 124 Old Feb 25th, 2019, 4:50 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
Well stated John. Back when CCR was in full swing I made up a bunch of these tensioner pins and gave them away at my tech sessions. They are made out of 1/8 inch music wire (model airplane hobby shops) and have a nice "handle". Once pushed all the way in you can also confirm engagement as they will turn in only one direction if they are holding the piston.
John,
Curious how "they will turn in only one direction if they are holding the piston" ...
Do these have a bend / curve in them ...OR... is it the loop at end that is jamming into the timing-chain cover ?

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post #66 of 124 Old Feb 25th, 2019, 8:11 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

John Z, do you have any more of these pins? My first attempt with a drill bit went awry for probably exactly the reason Sailor mentioned. I was not aware of a specific insertion depth and clearly had not captured the far end of the drill bit and it slipped when the sprocket came off the camshaft.

Sailor, thanks for the pictures. I have not seem a tensioner up close and was not really sure what the pin was engaging or how it really worked.

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post #67 of 124 Old Feb 26th, 2019, 2:07 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
John,
Curious how "they will turn in only one direction if they are holding the piston" ...
Do these have a bend / curve in them ...OR... is it the loop at end that is jamming into the timing-chain cover ?
Look again at your own pictures and pay special attention to the groove on top of the tensioner piston. The rod actually grabs at that part of the piston and if you roll the pin anti clockwise it is pushing the piston down and it moves freely. If you roll clock wise it is pushing the piston up but it can't go past the groove so it binds up. Sort of like the sprag clutch on the starter

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post #68 of 124 Old Feb 26th, 2019, 2:11 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
John Z, do you have any more of these pins?
I guess I need to go down to the Hobby Shop and get some more 1/8 music wire and make some more of these. I'll let you know when I get them made.

John
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post #69 of 124 Old Mar 2nd, 2019, 12:40 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Any tricks to get the tensioner to relax/retract? I think the manual says to rotate the engine over several times, but that seems to not work for me. Is there a ratchet action to the tensioner or is it held solely by oil pressure? Mine seems to hold tension pretty well. The first time I pulled the cams, the tensioner retracted easily once the chain pressure was removed from it when I removed the first sprocket. It almost seemed as though the pressure on the tensioner had to be released before the tensioner itself would retract. Almost as though it had a ratchet mechanism of some sort.

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post #70 of 124 Old Mar 3rd, 2019, 4:59 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

Oil is the primary support during engine running but there is a good spring under the piston. Go back and look at Johns pictures with it all assembled and yes that long spring fits in there.

The best thing I have found is to rotate ONE cam (the exhaust) in an anti clockwise (from the front) direction. That will pull the tensioner right down. If the cam gear is already off then the next best is to slide a long screwdriver in from above and push it down carefully.
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post #71 of 124 Old Mar 3rd, 2019, 6:39 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
Any tricks to get the tensioner to relax/retract? I think the manual says to rotate the engine over several times, but that seems to not work for me. Is there a ratchet action to the tensioner or is it held solely by oil pressure? Mine seems to hold tension pretty well. The first time I pulled the cams, the tensioner retracted easily once the chain pressure was removed from it when I removed the first sprocket. It almost seemed as though the pressure on the tensioner had to be released before the tensioner itself would retract. Almost as though it had a ratchet mechanism of some sort.
These do not have ANY type of ratchet mechanism - just a pretty strong spring pushing on the piston , combined with some residual oil pressure. Of course, the remaining oil pressure is almost nil in most cases as it must be cold to do the valves - hence probably parked for 8 hours or more.

There is no way to directly reach the piston OR the spring when the timing chain cover is in place. However, indirectly you can force the piston down using 2 methods described below.

As John Zeiler has mentioned, you do EITHER or BOTH methods before removing sprockets / chain:

(1) facing the camshaft, take all the slack of chain section between both camshafts by moving your 19mm wrench on intake camshaft toward up. Then do the same for the exhaust camshaft with slotted section using 19 mm wrench. These 2 actions will pull the timing-chain in its lowest section and compress the piston down. Repeat one more time taking care NOT to jam the chain section between both camshafts.

(2) The other method that you can do alone or after method 1 above: use a long thin screwdriver (or any appropriate long thin tool) to slide between the chain and the timing chain cover. Using a good flashlight, you should be able to see the edge metal section of the lower tensionner rail. You want to press down on this rail to compress the piston (piston is pushing up where the yellow arrow is in photo). Get your pin / drill bit in ready so that you can push the pin in AT SAME TIME as you compress the rail down.

Angle of Red arrow in photo is approximate as I do not have one K1200 engine currently in garage with valve cover removed.
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-------------------------------------------------
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 95,000 miles)
-------------------------------------------------
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Last edited by sailor; Mar 4th, 2019 at 6:23 am.
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post #72 of 124 Old Mar 3rd, 2019, 7:15 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Thanks, gentlemen. Sounds like a good plan.

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post #73 of 124 Old Mar 20th, 2019, 11:58 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

I finally got some free time and ambition to get back at the LT. I also got a cam guide piston holding pin from John Z and wanted to try that out. All went to perfection. Turning the exhaust cam slightly tensioned the chain enough to drop the guide and let the pin slip right in. And I confirmed the one way rotation that John mentioned.

I have everything removed, cleaned and the buckets in their correct location for replacement. I had a momentary scare when I could not find my two spare buckets as I needed one of them to complete the job along with the two new ones I bought. After a 20 minute hunt, I found them. I now have a 2.90 and three 2.85 spares, all sizes I will probably never need again.

Here is a video of the one way pin rotation and shots of things ready to go back together after lunch. I am hoping the assembly lube I bought is stiff enough to hold the exhaust buckets in place. I remember the first time I did this job when it was all my wife and I could do to get all of the exhaust buckets in place long enough to get the cam against them to hold them. Need about 5 hands to do that if you lube the buckets with motor oil.

I also put a black mark under the 6 and 9 bearing caps as I almost got them mixed up the first time. I canít believe BMW didnít put a bar over or under one of them.

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post #74 of 124 Old Mar 20th, 2019, 12:58 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
I finally got some free time and ambition to get back at the LT. I also got a cam guide piston holding pin from John Z and wanted to try that out. All went to perfection. Turning the exhaust cam slightly tensioned the chain enough to drop the guide and let the pin slip right in. And I confirmed the one way rotation that John mentioned.

I have everything removed, cleaned and the buckets in their correct location for replacement. I had a momentary scare when I could not find my two spare buckets as I needed one of them to complete the job along with the two new ones I bought. After a 20 minute hunt, I found them. I now have a 2.90 and three 2.85 spares, all sizes I will probably never need again.

Here is a video of the one way pin rotation and shots of things ready to go back together after lunch. I am hoping the assembly lube I bought is stiff enough to hold the exhaust buckets in place. I remember the first time I did this job when it was all my wife and I could do to get all of the exhaust buckets in place long enough to get the cam against them to hold them. Need about 5 hands to do that if you lube the buckets with motor oil.

I also put a black mark under the 6 and 9 bearing caps as I almost got them mixed up the first time. I canít believe BMW didnít put a bar over or under one of them.

https://youtu.be/lIjpP7JQPdU
I should probably check mine again as I have the covers off. Lots of high RPM riding over the last 8K miles.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Ė Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Ė Never should have sold it
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post #75 of 124 Old Mar 20th, 2019, 2:30 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
..
....

I have everything removed, cleaned and the buckets in their correct location for replacement. I had a momentary scare when I could not find my two spare buckets as I needed one of them to complete the job along with the two new ones I bought. After a 20 minute hunt, I found them. I now have a 2.90 and three 2.85 spares, all sizes I will probably never need again.
..
The 2.85 could be useful to many members here who do NOT have a lot of mileage. When doing the valves, I still see these needed in many K1200 engines with less than 100,000 miles. As far as the 2.90 is concerned, these are often used (with 2.95 and 3.00) at factory when assembling a new engine.

Of course the factory knows that a "brick-engine" must be on high side of bucket sizes when new, otherwise you would "potentially" run out of available sizes at 300,000 miles (we have a few members here with this kind of mileage). Minimum available size is 2.50 mm.

I have 95,000 miles and already have a few valves with 3 size lower than factory - bought the K1200RS new in 2002. Overall, my average has been to need 2 buckets changes (over the 16 total) every 24,000 miles. Last time I was around there because of a small timing chain cover leak (around 90,000 during winter), I just decided to set them all at MAX specs and be over with this for a long time. Had to use quite a few of my spare buckets ;-)

-------------------------------------------------
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K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 95,000 miles)
-------------------------------------------------
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Last edited by sailor; Mar 20th, 2019 at 6:37 pm.
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post #76 of 124 Old Mar 20th, 2019, 5:06 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Happiness is having a valve adjustment (both sides unfortunately) in the rear view mirror. Put in new plugs, but noticed that at least two of them have interesting stains on the insulator. I didnít notice them on the first two, but maybe didnít look closely enough either. Hopefully, just cosmetic, but I will know in a few more weeks.

Removed the air box to install the new fuel hoses, but not sure that will help much. May have to remove the fuel rail, but hoping to feed them through without doing that. I was able to reach in and open all of the hose clamps with a skinny screwdriver and got the rearmost line off. Not sure if that is supply or return, but it has blue marks on it. The SS elbows I bought will make a somewhat larger offset than the formed hose, but I am hoping it clears everything OK.

The old hose didnít seem all that bad yet, but is hardened on the outside. It sure was a bugger getting the JiffyTite fitting out of the one end. Those barbs really hold on. The fuel rail ends were a pain, but having just the one flare on the end is much easier to work with than the barbed ends. Ran out of clamps so time to visit Amazon.
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post #77 of 124 Old Mar 20th, 2019, 6:12 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

The blue is the return line. Feed line is at the front while the fuel pressure regulator is at the rear. Looks like those elbows will work just fine but with a really short bit of hose on the one end.

John
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post #78 of 124 Old Mar 21st, 2019, 1:37 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

I forgot to mention that I bought some Lucas Synthetic Assembly Lube (didnít choose it, it was all my local AutoZone had) and it worked really well. It is slicker than the scum on a Louisiana swamp (and about the same color of green) and very tacky and viscous. I put all of the exhaust buckets in and they stayed in place perfectly. Much easier than my first time using motor oil on the buckets before insertion.

Highly recommended for your next bucket change on the exhaust side. I also think the assembly lube is a good idea for any new buckets in particular to help them get broken in well against the cam. Although the BMW buckets are quite nicely polished so I suspect break-in is probably not an issue when them.

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post #79 of 124 Old Apr 8th, 2019, 11:31 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Got the family cruise out of the way and a few other things like taxes for myself, my mother and my mother-in-law done and got back to the LT today. Since my 20 SS clamps arrived while I was in the Bahamas (yes, life is tough), I decided to tackle the fuel lines since I figured it would be the hardest of the remaining jobs. I can’t say it was the hardest as I haven’t tackled the coolant hoses yet and the little one looks like a real treat, but it was a PITA job. With my wife’s help, I finally got both hoses threaded above the engine and through the hose clamps, although one clamp was brittle enough that it broke. A zip tie came to the rescue.

Other than needing 20 clamps now rather than the original 8, the straight hose and SS 90s and 180s seems to work pretty well. I won’t know for sure until I get the tank and fairings back in place and check for interference.

I installed the Euromotoelectric in-tank hoses and that went pretty easily. I cut all but 6 “rings” (you will know what I mean when you look at the corrugated tubes closely) off of each end of the corrugated tube and that was plenty to connect the filter to the fuel pump. The filter is straighter compared to the pump that with the stock hoses, but I could not feel any interference in the tank when I put things back in. I rotated the assembly in an orbit once back inside the tank and it seemed to not hit anything once aligned with the opening in the bottom of the tank.

I now have the tank sitting upright to conduct an overnight leak test. The gasket ring still looked great so I used it again.

Unfortunately, I forgot to take before pictures of everything before I started, but if you have an LT you know what the stock hoses look like. Here are some pics of the aftermath with a few before and after shots.
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post #80 of 124 Old Apr 8th, 2019, 11:40 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

A question for those of you who have changed your coolant hoses. What all did you remove to get to the small hose that runs up to the filler neck? I believe Gordon removed the engine mount and I assume that means that the radiator was also removed and/or the TBI to gain access. I am hoping I can remove the left radiator and not have to remove the fuel rail and TBI, but I am curious how others have tackled this.

Once the coolant hoses are done, I think all that is left is the ABS fluid change and then re-assembly of the plastic.

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post #81 of 124 Old Apr 8th, 2019, 3:29 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

You should be able to get in there with the radiator removed and the mount off. It was easy for me to hook it up when I had it preped for cylinder head removal.

John
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2009 R1200GS (Gone)
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2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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post #82 of 124 Old Apr 8th, 2019, 6:29 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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You should be able to get in there with the radiator removed and the mount off. It was easy for me to hook it up when I had it preped for cylinder head removal.
I was hoping to avoid removing the mount, but it sounds like I just need to resign myself to it.

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post #83 of 124 Old Apr 8th, 2019, 11:42 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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I was hoping to avoid removing the mount, but it sounds like I just need to resign myself to it.
Yeah, I removed the left radiator and the mount and then it was staring me in the face. It was still a bugger to get that little hose over the tub end.
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Gordon
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post #84 of 124 Old Apr 9th, 2019, 8:15 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Yeah, I removed the left radiator and the mount and then it was staring me in the face. It was still a bugger to get that little hose over the tub end.
Did you support the engine when you removed the mount or are things stiff enough so it doesnít move much?

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post #85 of 124 Old Apr 9th, 2019, 8:37 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Did you support the engine when you removed the mount or are things stiff enough so it doesnít move much?
Didn't support it and it didn't move at all. It is still supported well from the rear and the right side. If it makes you feel better, you can put some support under the engine but I had no issue coming apart or during reassembly.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Ė Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Ė Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #86 of 124 Old Apr 9th, 2019, 8:46 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

One thing I noticed on maintenance was that the front under faring was just touching the lower right side hose. I would make sure that it is sufficiently pushed on the hose fitting so you have proper clearance. I didn't want to loosen anything up so I just used a utility knife and cut away a little of the faring to make clearance. It is a little rough now but I will clean it up next time I have it off with a file and some sand paper.
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Gordon
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2001 K1200LTI Ė Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Ė Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #87 of 124 Old Apr 9th, 2019, 4:22 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Hoses are changed after about 3.5 hours of effort. A few observations.

1. The old hoses seemed in pretty good shape still. I think they might well have lasted another 7-8 years or more. They were still fairly pliable and came off the fittings fairly easily.

2. The coolant came out crystal clear after 3 years. I used Prestone 50/50 at my last two changes.

3. The left radiator was very clear looking in through the filler neck (see picture). I was amazed at how clean the system was after 12 years and 73,000 miles.

4. The silicone hoses seem a bit larger OD than stock, but the stock clamps did work, but had to be screwed nearly all the way open to fit into place. The small bypass hose seemed to be smaller ID as it was a bear to get over the small nipples. And I am not sure I did get it seated as far as the stock hose as it keep springing back. However, it appears to be on plenty far enough for the clamps to be behind the bead on the nipple.

5. Definitely have to remove the engine mount to get that small hose on. I canít imagine doing it otherwise.

6. The hose coming out of the water pump seems to buckle just a little at the bend. The stock hose looks to have been better formed for that bend. I am hoping this doesnít introduce any significant restriction as the stock system doesnít flow any too much coolant as my LT is prone to run hot when climbing grades in warm weather.

7. The light gray color looks fairly nice.

My only sight regret, which I am debating about just addressing now, is using some Peak antifreeze I had whose vintage I canít recall. It looked clear and good when I mixed it, but when I dumped out the remainder of the jug for disposal, I noticed some bits of what appear to be gelled material in the bottom of the jug. So, I may just bite the bullet and drain it out and go buy some new Prestone.
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2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
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post #88 of 124 Old Apr 9th, 2019, 4:37 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

I would look into getting silicone hose clamps.

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post #89 of 124 Old Apr 9th, 2019, 4:54 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

Quote:
Originally Posted by saddleman View Post
I would look into getting silicone hose clamps.
What is the difference?

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post #90 of 124 Old Apr 9th, 2019, 5:05 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

No serrations on the silicone hose. Also many types of antifreeze are no longer compatible. If the wrong antifreeze is mixed it can turn it to a rust color & it is hard to flush out after.

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post #91 of 124 Old Apr 9th, 2019, 5:49 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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No serrations on the silicone hose. Also many types of antifreeze are no longer compatible. If the wrong antifreeze is mixed it can turn it to a rust color & it is hard to flush out after.
Looks like only OAT coolants are a problem, particularly those that contain ethyl-hexanoic acids. It appears that EG coolants are just fine and that is what I use (Prestone 50/50).

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post #92 of 124 Old Apr 9th, 2019, 6:29 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

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What is the difference?
I bought boxes of them. The difference is that there are no holes for the screw to grab onto and tear the surface as you tighten, no sharp edges ( rounder up ) so the sides don't cut into the hose as you tighten.
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post #93 of 124 Old Apr 9th, 2019, 6:58 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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I bought boxes of them. The difference is that there are no holes for the screw to grab onto and tear the surface as you tighten, no sharp edges ( rounder up ) so the sides don't cut into the hose as you tighten.
Now you tell me.

I have seen both types sold for silicon hose. I donít tighten my clamps gorilla tight as some do as there just isnít that much pressure on these hoses. I suspect the standard clamps will be fine. Time will tell.
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1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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post #94 of 124 Old Apr 10th, 2019, 1:14 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

A light day today. I planned to flush the ABS, but forgot that I had failed to buy fresh fluid. And I decided not to trust the old Peak antifreeze so I decided to drain that out and flush with water before refilling with fresh Prestone.

I had not planned to take the shift linkage apart to clean and regrease. The one I took off to remove the foot peg (and which didnít have a donut on it) still looked pretty good after three years so I figured the others with the donuts should be in great shape. However, since I could not do the brakes today, I decided to take them all apart and clean and grease. Turns out it was unnecessary. The three joints with the new style foam donuts were still clean and well greased after 3 years and 20,000 miles.

The calipers are ready for flushing so time to Autozone for supplies so I can be ready to do that tomorrow hopefully.

Rear brake pads still look good after 20,000 miles and should make it to AK and back. The front pads are the originals and have an amazing amount of material left given they have 73,000 miles on them. I am thinking they will make it to AK and back also.
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post #95 of 124 Old Apr 10th, 2019, 2:34 pm
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Re: Alaska preparation

My original fronts were also still within limits (1.5 mm left, limit is 1 mm) at 112,000 but I went ahead and installed the new CL pads I got from BBY. Now I can go another 100,000 without worry. Looks like you are about done with all the prep.
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2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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post #96 of 124 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 7:42 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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My original fronts were also still within limits (1.5 mm left, limit is 1 mm) at 112,000 but I went ahead and installed the new CL pads I got from BBY. Now I can go another 100,000 without worry. Looks like you are about done with all the prep.
Iím in the home stretch. Now just have to remember which bleed valve is done for just the control circuit flush. I am thinking it is the tall one, but I canít remember after 3 years and I really donít want to do the full rotation on all 3 bleed valves.

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post #97 of 124 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 8:38 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

Yup just the tall one for a flush.

John
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2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

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post #98 of 124 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 9:00 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

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Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
My original fronts were also still within limits (1.5 mm left, limit is 1 mm) at 112,000 but I went ahead and installed the new CL pads I got from BBY. Now I can go another 100,000 without worry. Looks like you are about done with all the prep.
I must be doing something wrong when I'm riding in the mountains because I've worn out a set of front pads in four days. I've had to replace the rotors twice on my 2004LT.
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post #99 of 124 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 10:03 am Thread Starter
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Re: Alaska preparation

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I must be doing something wrong when I'm riding in the mountains because I've worn out a set of front pads in four days. I've had to replace the rotors twice on my 2004LT.
The idea is to only use the brakes for stopping, not to hold them on continuously.

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
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1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
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post #100 of 124 Old Apr 11th, 2019, 10:08 am
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Re: Alaska preparation

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The idea is to only use the brakes for stopping, not to hold them on continuously.
I don't know how he would be doing that. When I am behind him until he is out of sight, I never see a brake light
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1998 R1100RT Ė Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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