For those desperate with the two M8 bolts holding the disk to the final drive as I was, the two cobalt drill bits in the image will do the work fairly easy.
The worse nightmare: you want to replace the rear brake disk and have removed the rear wheel, now you want to remove the two M8 countersunk 5mm-hex bolts holding the rotor with the rear drive together. As the repair manual tells you, you heat the bolt well above 100C/212F to melt the Loctite thread lock, then you put in a 5mm hex and because some idiot before used an impact drive on them, no matter how careful and how good the quality of your 5mm hex is, the damn thing doesn't come out. The hex gets rounded, the hex key starts to slip. Then you try to knock in a larger torx (T35), yank on it, and break it (like I did). You ponder whether to use one of those screw removal kits from Amazon/TV, whatever. Stop right there.
After giving it a better thought, I decided to drill into the bolts. The attached image has all information you need if you're in the same situation. The drill machine I used is the M18 Hole Hawg Right Angle Drill from Milwaukee
with the top handle removed. When fastening the drill bits in the chuck, push them all the way in, ignore the triangular profile on them. They may wobble a bit, but you're holding the machine in the hand anyway. Most important, the setup fits between the exhaust and the disk. Clean all grease from the bolts if any.
Start with the 3/16" cobalt drill bit and drill into the hex hole about 8mm / 5/16" deep. Then use the 5/16" cobalt drill bit and drill slowly until the crown/head of the bolt comes off. Use enough pressure on the drill and go easy. Both bolt crowns/heads can be remove like that. The disk can now be removed.
After that, use the torch to heat up the stubs one at a time using a new pair of channellock pliers 10"-12" long, grab the stubs with the side and NOT the tip of the channellock(!) right next to the rotor, apply all the power possible (w/o the channellock slipping) and start spinning counter-clockwise. The stubs will start rotating. Eventually the stubs will come out.
Try not to drill too deep with the 3/16" bit, so the stub has enough meat to not fold under the channellock pressure.
That's how I resolved my 2005 LT's "cowbell".