Good job Kirk but you should always just oil the o-rings and not use grease. Also re-assembly should be done under cleaner conditions if you want the repair to last. The end cap is very easy to break by applying more than 9 Nm of torque. If it leaks fight the urge to tighten the nuts and pull it apart and clean the o-ring area and o-ring and try again. Install at least 135 ml (but no more than 140 ml) of oil as 125 will not lift a bike in cold conditions. I was going to publish a video but there are too many ways to screw this up. The 4 mm port are really easy to strip out so I recommend using the 19 mm spigot for all fill and drain operations. Also remove any burrs from the end of the shaft before pulling in apart gives you a better chance of not damaging the seal when it goes back together. Over 50 rebuilt to date.
Since the sawall episode I made sure to delete any trace of videos from my search results, in fact I don't even look at any LT videos so those don't come back..
Hi Kirk nice job. Always enjoy your videos.
For future reference that funny looking seal with the split that sits behind the main seal on the piston is not a seal but a guide bushing for the piston that is designed to help prevent excessive wear to the cylinder bore. In my experience they hardly ever need replacing. I think from memory they tend to be more expensive than the actual seal.
John,
Thanks for sharing your experience on this forum! I successfully changed the oil in my EHCS, and it worked great until the motor blew up. Replaced the motor and the seals, since I had it apart again. Worked fine for a month, then started stuttering and failed.
Shaft now has a lot of scoring, obviously from where it slides through the center stand connector.
Questions: Any idea why it would jam and score now? (No previous scoring, so this is just in a matter of month or so.) Any guess as to how much you can smooth the shaft scoring before it's too thin and leaks? Any source for replacement shaft, in that case?
Do you mean where it passes through the actual center stand? If so the only thing that would cause this is if the round part was sticking in the pivot area and putting lateral force on the shaft. Check it for free rotation.
If you mean on the end cap then something did not get put back together right if it is scoring the shaft.
I routinely polish the shafts I get for repair, I start with 400 grit and work my way up to 6000. I have polished mine twice now and it still holds. But I do have shafts in stock now so if yours ends up leaking you can replace it.
Thanks. Yes, the part through the center stand. Free rotation (greased both pieces before re-assembly.) Doesn't make sense why it stuck. Wish me luck.....
Hello friends,
Sorry for the translation but it's Google.
Thank you to Kirk for the video and to Jhon for sending me to France the piece case because of a tightening too strong.
Thanks to them I was able to help and troubleshoot some friends.
Thank you to them and this wonderful forum. Long live to you.
Chris, a little Frenchman.
I went to BMW yesterday to pick up a part I had ordered, distribution tube or as I keep calling it the crank case ventilation tube. While I was there I decided to ask what a new EHCS assembly would cost. I'm sure I've mentioned before that my 05 was missing the EHCS when I bought it, the previous owner had removed the entire assembly and replaced it with a standard version from an older bike. So anyhow the parts sales guy starts looking up all the parts I would need and when he told me the final price I nearly fainted.
$4,000 :frown:
Guess what I'm not doing.
Your parts guy did you no favor as they are available for $1400 for just the actuator. Now if you were to try to buy all new parts to retrofit an older bike I can see $4000, a lot less if you bought used off e-bay.
Yeah thanks John. I think the actuator price in Australian dollars was $1800. I didn't get an itemized list but perhaps I should have. I guess what annoys me is that the previous owner threw away a fortune in parts for the sake of a $90 motor. At the end of the day I can handle the manual stand ok and it does make transmission oil changes a lot easier.
I’ve got the complete unit Wazza, including the centre stand.
I won’t be in Brissy myself, meeting friends from Alexandra Hills between 7-14 Nov at Scott’s Head, so they could prob take it back to AH with them. They are both bike riders too!
Otherwise factor in shipping costs on top.... $500 for the complete EHCS unit with stand.
Can take pics tomorrow if still interested.
Yes I would love to see some pictures. It all sounds good.
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