Quick Disconnect Alignment - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 15 Old Jan 5th, 2007, 7:31 am Thread Starter
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Question Quick Disconnect Alignment

I have installed the brass QD's from MSC Direct and have a question/concern regarding the alignment of the QD fittings. Upon installation, I had to flex both hoses (the inner one more than the outside) from the tank a bit for them to be able to insert into it's QD mate. They both were able to snap, but I want to make sure that I do not need to have them aligned differently/straighter. It may be just me, but it seems the new QD's might be a tad longer than the plastic BMW QD's I replaced.

I made sure to align the arrow on the bottom of the tank when tightening the large, plastic nut that secures the fuel filter assembly. I am trying to be cautious and am probably being a little paranoid since reading reports of fuel leakage from the connectors. The last thing I want to happen is to have a fire start on the highway at 80 mph with wife in tow.

Is their a way that I can be confident that they are aligned properly?

Does one need to flex the hose at all to make them fit? If not, has anyone needed to trim/replace their hoses to make them fit? In thinking about the hoses on the bottom of the tank, it seems that if I loosened the nut a little, it would change the position of the hoses and bring the QD's more in direct alignment, but as I say, I made sure to have the arrows line up when installing the plastic nut and am concerned with loosening the fitting for fear of possible leakage at the bottom of the tank.

Any advice would be appreciated.

James

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX

Last edited by beemer100; Jan 5th, 2007 at 7:33 am. Reason: add words
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post #2 of 15 Old Jan 5th, 2007, 8:04 am
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That is what hoses are for - flexing. Seriously if the hose is not kinked after you have connected the QD you will be fine. Don't forget to apply a little light oil on the o-rings each time you take it apart. Don't use silicon grease as it can clog the filter screen in the injector.

I re-read your post. If the arrows are aligned - leave it. I would not try to loosen the nut with the tank installed you will just be inviting a leak. As long as the lines are not kinked - if you have a kinked line then by all means re-aline the fitting in the tank as the arrows are there to make sure the hoses line up as well as keeping the internals (pump & filter) out of harms way in side the tank.

John
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post #3 of 15 Old Jan 5th, 2007, 8:45 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
That is what hoses are for - flexing. Seriously if the hose is not kinked after you have connected the QD you will be fine. Don't forget to apply a little light oil on the o-rings each time you take it apart. Don't use silicon grease as it can clog the filter screen in the injector.

I re-read your post. If the arrows are aligned - leave it. I would not try to loosen the nut with the tank installed you will just be inviting a leak. As long as the lines are not kinked - if you have a kinked line then by all means re-aline the fitting in the tank as the arrows are there to make sure the hoses line up as well as keeping the internals (pump & filter) out of harms way in side the tank.
Thanks John. I appreciate the advice and now feel more confident that it is right. The lines are not kinked after the QD is installed, and I will keep it as is. I will also make sure I use a little light oil each time I take the connectors apart. Thanks again.

James

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX
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post #4 of 15 Old Jan 5th, 2007, 8:46 am
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James:

It sounds like you did everything right!

They should snap together and hold snugly. The hoses will need to be flexed a bit to get them together, as they are cut to be 'At Rest' in the coupled position (see attached photo). You do have to 'stretch' them to connect / disconnect. If they look aligned AND don't leak...well, they are okay!

The original QDs (see attached photo) are the same length as the replacements. So, that is not an issue.

The proper positioning and tightening of the access hole cover certainly has some bearing on the hose position, but, if you were very careful and lined up the arrows, all is well.

John's recommendation on lightly oiling the o-rings is standard procedure. Not just for ease of installation and a better seal, but also, to help keep them from drying out.

I have had my metal QDs on for 25K, never a drip. But, I also had the OEM QDs on for 25K with out a problem!

Keep your old QDs in your tool bag as a back-up for you or a friend!
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J. Averill Townsend
Bloomfield Hills, MI


IBA# 24374

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1978 R100/7 - Very, very Black
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post #5 of 15 Old Jan 5th, 2007, 9:18 am Thread Starter
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QD Alignment

Quote:
Originally Posted by JATownsend
James:

It sounds like you did everything right!

They should snap together and hold snugly. The hoses will need to be flexed a bit to get them together, as they are cut to be 'At Rest' in the coupled position (see attached photo). You do have to 'stretch' them to connect / disconnect. If they look aligned AND don't leak...well, they are okay!

The original QDs (see attached photo) are the same length as the replacements. So, that is not an issue.

The proper positioning and tightening of the access hole cover certainly has some bearing on the hose position, but, if you were very careful and lined up the arrows, all is well.

John's recommendation on lightly oiling the o-rings is standard procedure. Not just for ease of installation and a better seal, but also, to help keep them from drying out.

I have had my metal QDs on for 25K, never a drip. But, I also had the OEM QDs on for 25K with out a problem!

Keep your old QDs in your tool bag as a back-up for you or a friend!
Thanks Averill. I appreciate the picture showing the old QD's the same length as the plastic QD's that were replaced. I guess that they just seemed longer since they do have more bulk to them.

Good news on them not leaking for 25k. I would have loved to save the old QD's but they ended up in multiple pieces after extraction from the hoses.

I used the worm style clamps to tighten the hoses after I removed the non-reusable BMW clamps. I am under the assumption that these will work fine.

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX

Last edited by beemer100; Jan 5th, 2007 at 9:31 am. Reason: add words
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post #6 of 15 Old Jan 5th, 2007, 12:11 pm
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Worm type clamps will eventually cut into the hoses. Better to use the smooth clamps like in Averill's picture. They can be found at most auto parts houses and are called fuel injector hose clamps.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #7 of 15 Old Jan 5th, 2007, 12:38 pm Thread Starter
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QD Alignment

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
Worm type clamps will eventually cut into the hoses. Better to use the smooth clamps like in Averill's picture. They can be found at most auto parts houses and are called fuel injector hose clamps.
I was afraid of that. I did see Averill's picture and it got me wondering. I had read some posts regarding the clamps, of course after I had installed the worm variety

Oh well, off to the store for some fuel injector hose clamps.

Thanks again John!

James

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX
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post #8 of 15 Old Jan 6th, 2007, 3:08 am
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Smile Hose Clamps etc.

The non reusable BMW type hose clamps were available through my dealer: I modified an end cutter (thinned the width and blunted the cutting jaws) and must admit they work well, plus they use up minimal space. Alignment was not an issue, just be sure to have both tabs facing out.
Just one other point of note. The OEM connects shut off the fuel in both sides of the fitting, the replacement ones I used do not. I opted to shut off the tank, i.e. the return line rather than the pump line, so as not to leak fuel when removing the tank. When removing the QD's you will get a little fuel squirt from the pressurized line. When I replaced the fuel filter, I used the reusable SS screw type (also from BMW) not worm type. Also a thin coating of vaseline on the outer face of the rubber gasket helped to seat the sealing ring on the pump assembly without leaks. I used a canvas strap wrench to loosen and tighten the large ring nut. Cheers.

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post #9 of 15 Old Jan 6th, 2007, 5:31 pm Thread Starter
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Clamps

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilton
The non reusable BMW type hose clamps were available through my dealer: I modified an end cutter (thinned the width and blunted the cutting jaws) and must admit they work well, plus they use up minimal space. Alignment was not an issue, just be sure to have both tabs facing out.
Just one other point of note. The OEM connects shut off the fuel in both sides of the fitting, the replacement ones I used do not. I opted to shut off the tank, i.e. the return line rather than the pump line, so as not to leak fuel when removing the tank. When removing the QD's you will get a little fuel squirt from the pressurized line. When I replaced the fuel filter, I used the reusable SS screw type (also from BMW) not worm type. Also a thin coating of vaseline on the outer face of the rubber gasket helped to seat the sealing ring on the pump assembly without leaks. I used a canvas strap wrench to loosen and tighten the large ring nut. Cheers.
Hilton, that is nice that you are able to install the non reusable BMW type hose clamps. Hat's off to you on that trick.

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX
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post #10 of 15 Old Jan 6th, 2007, 7:31 pm
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Smile OEM Clamps

James, just to clarify. You have to cut off the old clamps. I used a pair of strong tin snips. The new clamps are then placed in position and then crimped together leaving about 2mm gap. Cheers

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post #11 of 15 Old Jan 7th, 2007, 7:46 am Thread Starter
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OEM Clamps

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilton
James, just to clarify. You have to cut off the old clamps. I used a pair of strong tin snips. The new clamps are then placed in position and then crimped together leaving about 2mm gap. Cheers
Thanks Hilton. The next time I disassemble, I might see about using the OEM variety. Thanks again for the info. on how that is accomplished.
Cheers back to ya!

James

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
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post #12 of 15 Old Jan 7th, 2007, 2:20 pm
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I've never seen a worm gear type clamp "cut into" a hose. I have a car that I've owned for 22+ years with those very same clamps on it and never had a clamp cut into a hose. What a clamp will do is "cold weld" the hose. This is where the clamp slowly compresses the rubber over time, leaving the imprint of the clamp on the hose. The hoses should have been replaced long before cold welding has any adverse effect on them anyway.
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post #13 of 15 Old Jan 7th, 2007, 3:54 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morley
I've never seen a worm gear type clamp "cut into" a hose. I have a car that I've owned for 22+ years with those very same clamps on it and never had a clamp cut into a hose. What a clamp will do is "cold weld" the hose. This is where the clamp slowly compresses the rubber over time, leaving the imprint of the clamp on the hose. The hoses should have been replaced long before cold welding has any adverse effect on them anyway.
Ken,

I know I have used them (worm type) for years but the smooth EFI clamps are the same price (maybe even cheaper) and are sooo much easier on the hoses. So why not use them? Plus they match the BMW OEM (which I like but they are a bi--h to get off) for internal smoothness.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #14 of 15 Old Jan 7th, 2007, 4:27 pm
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There is no problem with using the flat band style clamp. But if someone were to have already installed the wormgear type they really don't need to worry about the clamps sawing the hose off. The hoses should be inspected and replaced, just like automotive hoses, whenever they show signs of deterioration or every 6 years or so. I would epecially think of replacing them on any pressurized application (ie; radiator, fuel injection, etc) within that 6 year time frame..unless they are acft grade braided steel hoses (which is what I'll probably replace mine with on the bike.).
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post #15 of 15 Old Jan 7th, 2007, 4:42 pm Thread Starter
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Clamps

I went ahead and replaced my worm-style clamps with the smooth type yesterday. I figured for the peace of mind and not having to keep up with the latest and greatest debate over the merits of clamps and their efficacy, I did a replacement.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Thanks everyone for their input!!!

Ride safe,

James

James Hart
2002 LTE Titan Silver
1992 Yamaha Virago 750 (given to friend)
River Oaks, TX
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