heated seat removal - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 13 Old Jan 2nd, 2007, 4:29 pm Thread Starter
 
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Question heated seat removal

Please can someone tell me how to unplug the heated seat wire on the riders seat on my ltse. It looks like it just disappears through a hole in the bottom of the seat into the foam. Lightning hit my garage roof and some of the broken pieces ripped a 3 inch hole in the front of the seat. Can it be repaired and still look good or do i need a new one? Great start to 2007!!!
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post #2 of 13 Old Jan 2nd, 2007, 4:59 pm
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If you cannot see the plug, then you will need to remove the lower left hand fairing, the left mirror, the left winglet, the small tupperware piece just in front of the seat and then the left hand upper tupperware. At that point, the rider seat plug will be exposed. Probably not what you wanted to hear.

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post #3 of 13 Old Jan 2nd, 2007, 7:07 pm
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follow the wire in the other direction to find the connector (away from the seat)

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post #4 of 13 Old Jan 3rd, 2007, 10:34 am
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In other words, the seat heater wire plug is accessable just under the left side panel & factory tie-tie wrapped to the top left frame member. You will need to dislodge the tupperware to gain access to the wire&plug. After snipping that tie-tie you will never have to get under the tupperware again to take off the seat.. Ask me how I know ! :^)

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post #5 of 13 Old Jan 3rd, 2007, 11:03 am
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I'm gonna be lazy and just copy and paste what I said here:

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1598


Quote:
This was discussed a few times on the old list.
I ran into the same thing when I replaced my stock seat with a Rick Mayer (wish I'd have gone with Russel but that's another story)
I was able to loosen the rear of the left side tupperware enough to wedge a maglight (D cell) flashlight in there for a spacer and light and then use a long needle nose to twist and pop the straps loose and pull the seat wires up and out of there, took all of 10 minutes start to finish.


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post #6 of 13 Old Jan 4th, 2007, 9:39 am
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Being lazy, I cut the two wires w/o going under the tupperware (two seconds). I spliced in a waterproof connector (two minutes). I connected them (one second) and don't have to worry about that again.


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post #7 of 13 Old Jan 4th, 2007, 11:26 am
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Tell me how you know?

USMCTPDOG, please tell me how you know??? Now I am interested in the story! Also, Reid, can you tell me more about cutting and splicing the wire? That sounds like a much better idea than BMW had when they designed it. jrlakin
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post #8 of 13 Old Jan 4th, 2007, 1:55 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrlakin
can you tell me more about cutting and splicing the wire? That sounds like a much better idea than BMW had when they designed it. jrlakin
Once you delete that hidden Ty-rap, you can relocate the factory seat connector so it is just as accessible as a second connector you would have to install if you snip the wires.

Adding a second connector is not necessarily a better idea. Every connector in a circuit is just another potential failure mode - electrically speaking, connectors are necessary evils.

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post #9 of 13 Old Jan 4th, 2007, 5:18 pm
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JRLAKIN,

To answer your question: Once you snip the tie-tie holding the wire to the frame you can connect/disconnect the male and female parts of the plug easily. I have switched seats very often the first 6 months of owning my 05 LT with going thru several seat modifications with my Russell and then settling on my very favorite, a Corbin.

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post #10 of 13 Old Jan 5th, 2007, 11:02 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schweintechnik
Adding a second connector is not necessarily a better idea. Every connector in a circuit is just another potential failure mode - electrically speaking, connectors are necessary evils.
I agree that finding and snipping the wire tye to get at the factory connector is ideal. However, cutting the wire and splicing in a two-wire good quality connector isn't going to cause any problems if done right. I just used four butt connectors from electrical connector kit, stripped 1/4" insulation from the wires (the connector I used already had two pigtail wires that were stripped), crimped the connectors to complete the circuit and I'm back on the road.

RM

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post #11 of 13 Old Jan 5th, 2007, 1:05 pm
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The top ten reasons (OK...eleven) why you should just leave the tupperware alone and cut the little buggers:

1. Spending probably an hour or more (at your first attempt..) locating all the screws that need to be removed to take off the tupperware

2. Keeping track of about 15 screws (some of different length - of course!)

3. Stripping those screws when re-installing them

4. Going to the local hardware store to find a metric tap to chase out the threads in the "clamp" nuts that you have also stripped. See no. 3.

5. Stripping the rubber out of the "jack" nuts and then having to go to the BMW dealer for the proper metric ones to replace them

6. Breaking the small plastic locater tab in the front of the tip over bar trim

7. Losing the small foam rubber shims that are mounted between the tupperware that keep it from buzzing at idle

8. Wondering where that loud new buzzing sound came from. See No. 7

9. Getting carple tunnel syndrome from overuse of your wrist while manually screwing in all the torx screws one at a time

10. Spending another hour putting it all back together - if you are lucky

11. Realizing that it was probably not a very good idea to put another wire tie back in place of the one you cut off a couple of hours ago


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post #12 of 13 Old Jan 5th, 2007, 3:35 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonKMiller
The top ten reasons (OK...eleven) why you should just leave the tupperware alone and cut the little buggers:

1. Spending probably an hour or more (at your first attempt..) locating all the screws that need to be removed to take off the tupperware

2. Keeping track of about 15 screws (some of different length - of course!)

3. Stripping those screws when re-installing them

4. Going to the local hardware store to find a metric tap to chase out the threads in the "clamp" nuts that you have also stripped. See no. 3.

5. Stripping the rubber out of the "jack" nuts and then having to go to the BMW dealer for the proper metric ones to replace them

6. Breaking the small plastic locater tab in the front of the tip over bar trim

7. Losing the small foam rubber shims that are mounted between the tupperware that keep it from buzzing at idle

8. Wondering where that loud new buzzing sound came from. See No. 7

9. Getting carple tunnel syndrome from overuse of your wrist while manually screwing in all the torx screws one at a time

10. Spending another hour putting it all back together - if you are lucky

11. Realizing that it was probably not a very good idea to put another wire tie back in place of the one you cut off a couple of hours ago

Surely you're not speaking from your own experience, Ron!

Dave

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'96 Triumph Sprint 900 British Racing Green (traded)
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post #13 of 13 Old Jan 5th, 2007, 4:49 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schweintechnik
Surely you're not speaking from your own experience, Ron!
... Moi Dave? ...nah, not a chance - that's just what I've accumulated from everyone else's experience. I would never do it that way.

(...and that, indeed, is why I love a wire stripper/cutter, 2 "telephone" wire butt sized connectors from Rat Shack, (20 to the poly pack) and 2 different diameter sizes of 3M heat shrink tubing. Two small pieces to go over each butt connector and then one larger and longer one to cover the bundle. The good stuff with the waterproofing sealant inside that melts when you heat it - with your electic heat gun - of course. ... and about 5 minutes total time.)


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