Re: Do I Repair The Exhaust ?
And so we learn.
Six of the studs had the nuts well rusted on - and the studs just came out smoothly. Seventh stud; the nut came off and then the stud was removed easily with two nuts locked. Eight new studs and nuts are arriving tomorrow.
Stud number eight had sheared many years ago. Before I bought the bike. I might be able to get the stump out but it is getting to the stage where I might be making more of a mess getting it out than leaving it in. The first drill hole was off centre. I have managed many miles without it - so maybe it can stay as a sheared stump.
Clymer was not as helpful as I had hoped but the routine of "Read Manual, Observe set-up, Think, Act", (in that order) worked well and the exhaust was easily removed, albeit slowly.
Now I have a one piece exhaust (score marks were made before removal for the welder to align in case it separated) with some mighty cracks - but they are in the "easy to weld area" downstream of the box, not in the "four into one" part.
Since a new exhaust (less oxygen sensor) will run to about USD1800 I can afford to pay "local skilled welder" a stout fee for his trouble.
(New studs, nuts and gaskets run to about USD45, I know an excellent BMW dealer with a brilliant guy on the parts desk who will take a phone order and post the bits next day. They are superb and I use them all the time for my bikes.)
This could be a successful project.
Question. When the new studs go in, Should I use any Copper grease or Locktite or just plain in ?