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post #1 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 12:11 am Thread Starter
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Newbie on a DIY Journey

Hello, fellow riders!

I have finally started my journey to work on my 99 K1200LT. Many of you here have guided me through this, and provided me with great tips, and words of encouragement. Now it is time to put it to practice. I am fairly handy, but when it comes to working on motorcycles...never done it before!

Last night I replaced the rear brake pads. No challenges there. Tonight, my first challenge was removing the mirror, which was step number 1. Could not believe I was already stuck on step 1. I bypassed that, and still have no idea how to get it off. Afraid to break it, so if you have done this before on a 99 K1200LT, your feedback is welcome. I moved on to the fairing, one screw at a time, making sure to put the screws next to each respective part. If I do not do this, I will probably mix them up. Upper and lower parts off.

My goal tonight was to replace the ignition cables and spark plugs. It has only 30K miles, but not sure what the previous owner did (I am the second owner). Turns out the cables were 12/12/2001. I guess time to change?! Could not tell how long the spark plugs were there, but the pictures attached will speak to you guys, for I have no idea. I changed the spark plugs and cables, started the bike, and voila! I was proud of my self (and so was my wife, since she wants her car back in the garage as soon as possible! The faster and accurate I complete this project, the happier the wife. I called it a quit for the night. Better to end on a successful note. I have attached some pictures below, before and after installing the cables and spark plugs (including old ones).

On a separate note, does the overall appearance look normal, in the sense of does it seem like it looks okay under the fairing?

Next, I will move on to the right side...More to come!

I welcome your feedback and comments.

Ride safe, All!
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post #2 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 1:27 am
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Good job on the plugs and wires. Couldn't see the farthest away one real well but they all looked pretty normal. The mirrors are not difficult to get off and they often hit the floor and are very expensive to replace. First, look into the hole on the outside painted surface and see if the PO screwed them on. It will be pretty obvious as there is no screw on them from the dealer. If there is a screw, remove it first. No screw, proceed to next step.

Make sure you have one hand on the mirror during this and don't drop it. Hit it sharply on the outside edge that is facing the rear of the bike. It should pop off. There are 3 spring clips underneath and you will see how they work once you get it off. Look for a tether. If it doesn't have one, you will want to make one and attach it. If no tether, place the mirror somewhere where it won't hit the ground.

The tether can be anything like 200lb fishing line, a tie wrap attached to the bike and to the mirror to prevent it from bouncing should it get knocked off. You will figure out something and if not, after you bump your first one off and it hits the ground, you will after that. They actually do like to come off at inopportune times. Kirk has this mentioned in one of his videos with some ideas. I finally drilled, tapped and screwed mine on as the underlying plastic is broken and the spring clips don't function well any more. There are several posts on how to do repairs on the broken plastic and spring clips. It takes a good thump to get them back on also.

While you have the left side undone, take a good closeup of the engine and cable routing and keep it. That way you will have a reference on how to route the cables should you need to dig into that area. If not routed properly, the throttle can be stiff and the cruise may not work.
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Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
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post #3 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 9:11 am
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

I would look at the plugs first as they don't give them away ($$$). If the color is a nice even tan brown without heavy electrode deterioration or corrosion they should be fine.

I would quickly check the plug wires as follows: start the bike in a VERY dark area looking for signs of electrical halo's coming from the wires particularly at the cap ends on both the plugs and coils.

If the wires feel pliable w/o cracks or haloing I'd skip their replacement spending my money on brake/clutch flushing and new lines plus new OEM fuel, air filter. and the connecting fuel hoses in the tank. Plus, be certain the fuel tank quick connects are not the plastic type, if so REPLACE!

Those are some of the things that have left folks stranded.
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post #4 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 2:47 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Once you do get the mirrors off be sure to lightly grease the ball pins and lock wires. This makes for easy removal and actually make the grip stronger to hold them on.
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2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #5 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 4:10 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Nice photos! Good luck with your progress!
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post #6 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 7:38 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Hi , when I take the mirrors off. I hold the mirrors with one hand, then push on it a little to kind of load it a bit. Then I bang it with the heal of the other hand. As jzeiler said, grease the ball pins and lock wires a bit.
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post #7 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 7:45 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinJoe View Post
I would look at the plugs first as they don't give them away ($$$). If the color is a nice even tan brown without heavy electrode deterioration or corrosion they should be fine.

I would quickly check the plug wires as follows: start the bike in a VERY dark area looking for signs of electrical halo's coming from the wires particularly at the cap ends on both the plugs and coils.

If the wires feel pliable w/o cracks or haloing I'd skip their replacement spending my money on brake/clutch flushing and new lines plus new OEM fuel, air filter. and the connecting fuel hoses in the tank. Plus, be certain the fuel tank quick connects are not the plastic type, if so REPLACE!

Those are some of the things that have left folks stranded.
Thank you! I am going to remove the right side fairing in a moment. I did buy the fuel quick connects, without checking the need first. Worst case scenario, I will replace them anyway. Makes it for good practice. I have the air filter, and fuel filter, but am a bit hesitant to replace those my self. Still building some confidence. I replaced the spark plugs and wires, the picture shows the old ones.

Thank you, again. Great info.
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post #8 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 8:07 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
Good job on the plugs and wires. Couldn't see the farthest away one real well but they all looked pretty normal. The mirrors are not difficult to get off and they often hit the floor and are very expensive to replace. First, look into the hole on the outside painted surface and see if the PO screwed them on. It will be pretty obvious as there is no screw on them from the dealer. If there is a screw, remove it first. No screw, proceed to next step.

Make sure you have one hand on the mirror during this and don't drop it. Hit it sharply on the outside edge that is facing the rear of the bike. It should pop off. There are 3 spring clips underneath and you will see how they work once you get it off. Look for a tether. If it doesn't have one, you will want to make one and attach it. If no tether, place the mirror somewhere where it won't hit the ground.

The tether can be anything like 200lb fishing line, a tie wrap attached to the bike and to the mirror to prevent it from bouncing should it get knocked off. You will figure out something and if not, after you bump your first one off and it hits the ground, you will after that. They actually do like to come off at inopportune times. Kirk has this mentioned in one of his videos with some ideas. I finally drilled, tapped and screwed mine on as the underlying plastic is broken and the spring clips don't function well any more. There are several posts on how to do repairs on the broken plastic and spring clips. It takes a good thump to get them back on also.

While you have the left side undone, take a good closeup of the engine and cable routing and keep it. That way you will have a reference on how to route the cables should you need to dig into that area. If not routed properly, the throttle can be stiff and the cruise may not work.
Hello bmwcool1200! Thank you for another great feedback. I noticed a cable inside the mirror, and that is probably the tethering you are referring to. Mine is not as open as yours. I can also see what appears to be a clip. I have attached some pictures here. You will be able to see one what appears to be the clip you are referring to. There is another one where we can see a cable, which I believe is the tethering. The other ones are how it looks like. It is different than yours. Mine appears to have "vents". Yes, I heard the mirrors tend to fall off, but I believe this one is tethered.

I am considering removing the fairing on the right side tonight, so I can prep for flushing the rear brakes, and checking the fuel quick connects. I purchased the metal ones, even without knowing what I have. I will probably still replace it even if it is metal, unless it is not recommended I touch. I also have the air filter, and fuel filter, which I am a bit hesitant for now.

What did you think about the screws holding the exhaust in place? Do those need to be replaced?

Thank you for your time, and for helping me through this.
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post #9 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 8:30 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patric View Post
Hi , when I take the mirrors off. I hold the mirrors with one hand, then push on it a little to kind of load it a bit. Then I bang it with the heal of the other hand. As jzeiler said, grease the ball pins and lock wires a bit.
Well, left side mirror is off! I guess I understand now what I need to grease. Thank you!
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post #10 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 9:41 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALL4BMW View Post
Hello bmwcool1200! Thank you for another great feedback. I noticed a cable inside the mirror, and that is probably the tethering you are referring to. Mine is not as open as yours. I can also see what appears to be a clip. I have attached some pictures here. You will be able to see one what appears to be the clip you are referring to. There is another one where we can see a cable, which I believe is the tethering. The other ones are how it looks like. It is different than yours. Mine appears to have "vents". Yes, I heard the mirrors tend to fall off, but I believe this one is tethered.

I am considering removing the fairing on the right side tonight, so I can prep for flushing the rear brakes, and checking the fuel quick connects. I purchased the metal ones, even without knowing what I have. I will probably still replace it even if it is metal, unless it is not recommended I touch. I also have the air filter, and fuel filter, which I am a bit hesitant for now.

What did you think about the screws holding the exhaust in place? Do those need to be replaced?

Thank you for your time, and for helping me through this.
The exhaust bolts look par for the course and unless one is rusted tight should you ever remove them, don't worry. What would likely happen is the stud would back out with the nut. I think I had one do that and I just put it back in like that. It tightened just fine.

Those "vents" come out and after drilling and screwing the mirrors on, I just never put them back in. No functional loss there that I am aware of.
Yes, you can see where you need to grease. The plastic around the spring clips can break after repeated removals and re-installation as the plastic dries out and becomes more brittle over time. Mine has done so and I got it like that from the PO.

When you get the fairing off, you will see another point to put a little grease on and that is the rubber grommet that has a stud on the fairing. A little lube there will help future disassembly and also reassembly too. If you watched Kirks video, you know where all the hidden screws are to get the panel off.

Doing great!
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Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #11 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 10:27 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

While you have the tupperware off, you might want to check on the brake lines...have they been updated? Also, have the quick connect fittings on the fuel lines been updated? Coolant flush/change is easier with the tupperware off, too.

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post #12 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 11:12 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Quote:
Originally Posted by Munmi View Post
While you have the tupperware off, you might want to check on the brake lines...have they been updated? Also, have the quick connect fittings on the fuel lines been updated? .
He has already stated he has purchased the metal fuel line disconnects and will replace as needed. Looks like a good job so far.

Still rolling in Southern Oregon
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post #13 of 92 Old Feb 10th, 2018, 11:33 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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He has already stated he has purchased the metal fuel line disconnects and will replace as needed. Looks like a good job so far.
And it looks like Spieglers already installed in the pictures.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #14 of 92 Old Feb 14th, 2018, 9:59 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Hello, All!

The project is getting scarier, as I continue to remove parts. I do not recognize this bike This is totally the unknown for me, but carrying on. I believe I have removed everything I could in order to remove the fuel tank.

Planning on replacing the fuel filter and the air filter. Picture 6009 shows some parts I am yet to install. I noticed two rubber o-rings. Are these spare, for I see them on the QD already? The clamps and hoses I will need to figure out where they go. Not sure which ones I need to replace here. Getting confused!

I also plan to flush the clutch fluid, and understand I should use DOT4 oil. Is the drain the thing showing on picture 6008? I understand I need the bleed valve, and that is on its way to me.

I have flushed the rear brake fluid, including the ABS compartment. You can see the difference in the oil color. I guess it was time to change. Front brakes still waiting for the vent valve to arrive. I have also changed the rear brake pads.

Picture 6009, I am assuming these hoses are for the assembly inside the tank. I purchased these parts one year ago, and do not remember now why I did it. I believe it was a recommendation from the forum friends.

Picture 5999, I was shocked with how low the coolant level was. It appears well below minimums. I am debating between flushing or simply adding coolant. I purchased two quarts of the coolant from BMW. They mentioned I should mix it with water, but not sure how much. I believe Kirk has a video on it. Also, on this same picture, the exposed wires, is this normal, or the protection is nearly gone?

Picture 6010, do I still have the plastic connectors there? QDs will be installed ASAP.

Looking at the other pictures, how is the overall appearance? Do you see anything abnormal?

I finally got the right side "tip over" bar out. Had to remove the entire assembly, and just hammered out once the assembly was off the bike. I greased a bit. Perhaps it will be easier to come out next time. I am also planning to lubricate the linkage as well.

I guess that for now that is it. Tomorrow I will attempt removing the fuel tank, and putting it back installing the QD. More of this journey to come.

As always, I appreciate your feedback and comments, as well as your support and encouragement. Thank you!
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post #15 of 92 Old Feb 15th, 2018, 12:07 am
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALL4BMW View Post
Hello, All!

The project is getting scarier, as I continue to remove parts. I do not recognize this bike This is totally the unknown for me, but carrying on. I believe I have removed everything I could in order to remove the fuel tank.

Planning on replacing the fuel filter and the air filter. Picture 6009 shows some parts I am yet to install. I noticed two rubber o-rings. Are these spare, for I see them on the QD already? The clamps and hoses I will need to figure out where they go. Not sure which ones I need to replace here. Getting confused!

I also plan to flush the clutch fluid, and understand I should use DOT4 oil. Is the drain the thing showing on picture 6008? I understand I need the bleed valve, and that is on its way to me.

I have flushed the rear brake fluid, including the ABS compartment. You can see the difference in the oil color. I guess it was time to change. Front brakes still waiting for the vent valve to arrive. I have also changed the rear brake pads.

Picture 6009, I am assuming these hoses are for the assembly inside the tank. I purchased these parts one year ago, and do not remember now why I did it. I believe it was a recommendation from the forum friends.

Picture 5999, I was shocked with how low the coolant level was. It appears well below minimums. I am debating between flushing or simply adding coolant. I purchased two quarts of the coolant from BMW. They mentioned I should mix it with water, but not sure how much. I believe Kirk has a video on it. Also, on this same picture, the exposed wires, is this normal, or the protection is nearly gone?

Picture 6010, do I still have the plastic connectors there? QDs will be installed ASAP.

Looking at the other pictures, how is the overall appearance? Do you see anything abnormal?

I finally got the right side "tip over" bar out. Had to remove the entire assembly, and just hammered out once the assembly was off the bike. I greased a bit. Perhaps it will be easier to come out next time. I am also planning to lubricate the linkage as well.

I guess that for now that is it. Tomorrow I will attempt removing the fuel tank, and putting it back installing the QD. More of this journey to come.

As always, I appreciate your feedback and comments, as well as your support and encouragement. Thank you!
The two O-rings are spares for the QD's. BMW recommends replacing them every time the QD's are separated but that is a little excessive. Be careful not to damage them and you can get a few cycles out of them before they would need replacing or start to leak.

The hoses and clamps will be obvious when you get the fuel pump assembly out. You have new pre-formed hoses so disregard what I said about the nylon lines in the PM. The internal hoses may still have crimp type connectors that you will have to pretty much destroy to get them off but you have replacements and also screw type currently on the plastic hose barbs no no worries there. You may want to forgo the PEX crimp type if you don't have the crimp pliers but they can be dome with a set of side cutters carefully. My suggestion is to salvage the ones on the plastic barbs and use the new ones inside the tank with the new rubber hoses.

Yes, PIC 6008 shows the clutch ventilation screw fitting. You had to cut the tie wrap to get the right crash bar off. That is where you would perform the same procedure on the clutch as the front brakes with the fitting front right.

That looks like the BMW blue stuff or that with maybe something added. Looks a little dark but at least there is some in the overflow bottle. It doesn't look all that low. Go buy a gallon of distilled water to mix with your BMW quarts. You don't want to use tap water as it has dissolved minerals in it that can crust up things. The system only holds a gallon so pour out half and mix up the blue stuff like that if it says to do a 50/50 mix.

Yes, those are the plastic hose barbs. No issues with them. It was the plastic QD's that would crack and snap off causing leaks. You have the stainless ones. Pricey little things.

The only other thing that concerns me is the fluid of some kind around the fuel pump base. Not sure if that is fuel or oil or what the source is. The plastic ring may just be a darker shiny plastic but the fuel hose looks like it may have been leaking. Pic 6001 shows some exposed wires. It will be a good idea to tape those up with some cloth friction tape to keep them from being abraded and shorting on something. There may be other areas to tend to once you get the tank off and can see the rest of the harness.

Keep going.

Happy Valentines Day.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #16 of 92 Old Feb 15th, 2018, 9:51 am
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Cooling system holds 2.5 liters with 0.6 liters in the overflow so 3.1 liters total. Trick to filling after the drain is go slowly and you won't have to "burp" the top cross hose. I mix up exactly 2.5 L of coolant/distilled water to fill the system. Then mix up 0.6 L for the tank. Best to drain by removing the lower hose at the water pump. Manual wants you to pull the temp sensor on the bottom of the pump but it is too easy to break it re-installing as it is only 9 Nm which is just a hair above "snug". It snaps easily.

When you do remove the fuel pump for the hose/filter change. Clean the opening in the tank and clean the rubber seal. It is installed DRY. Make sure there is no corrosion on the fuel flange that faces the seal, it should be clean and dry. Match the arrows on the pump and tank and tighten the union nut with a strap wrench.

Plus everything Gordon said.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #17 of 92 Old Feb 15th, 2018, 4:54 pm Thread Starter
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Cooling system holds 2.5 liters with 0.6 liters in the overflow so 3.1 liters total. Trick to filling after the drain is go slowly and you won't have to "burp" the top cross hose. I mix up exactly 2.5 L of coolant/distilled water to fill the system. Then mix up 0.6 L for the tank. Best to drain by removing the lower hose at the water pump. Manual wants you to pull the temp sensor on the bottom of the pump but it is too easy to break it re-installing as it is only 9 Nm which is just a hair above "snug". It snaps easily.

When you do remove the fuel pump for the hose/filter change. Clean the opening in the tank and clean the rubber seal. It is installed DRY. Make sure there is no corrosion on the fuel flange that faces the seal, it should be clean and dry. Match the arrows on the pump and tank and tighten the union nut with a strap wrench.

Plus everything Gordon said.
Thank you, thank you! Quantity duly noted. I was planning to drain the coolant removing that sensor, per Kirk's video. I am not sure which hose you are referring to, but will check. Also, I do not plan to warm up the bike after I replace the coolant, since most likely the tank will be off, or should I remove the tank only warming up the bike so the coolant may set?

I will pay close attention to the tank rubber seal, to ensure it is dry, and align the arrows.

Thank you for the great feedback.
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post #18 of 92 Old Feb 15th, 2018, 5:08 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Kirk and I don't exactly do things the same way. It is the hose on the right side of the bike that goes from the water pump to the thermostat junction at the base of the right radiator. There is nothing to "set" with the coolant. As long as you pour slowly, by the time yous 2.5 L are gone the level should be in the neck of the filler tube. You are DONE. Don't forget to hook back up the hose first.

OK I just watched his video. He does warn you about the torque setting for that sensor, 9 Nm is like run it by hand until it stops and then one half to one flat further with a wrench ONLY. Best to use a quality wrench. Or just pull the big hose as you will get all but 30 ml of coolant out that way.

He also has you loosen the upper hose. I used to do that but I have found a slow pour will work as well.

John
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
Kirk and I don't exactly do things the same way. It is the hose on the right side of the bike that goes from the water pump to the thermostat junction at the base of the right radiator. There is nothing to "set" with the coolant. As long as you pour slowly, by the time yous 2.5 L are gone the level should be in the neck of the filler tube. You are DONE. Don't forget to hook back up the hose first.

OK I just watched his video. He does warn you about the torque setting for that sensor, 9 Nm is like run it by hand until it stops and then one half to one flat further with a wrench ONLY. Best to use a quality wrench. Or just pull the big hose as you will get all but 30 ml of coolant out that way.

He also has you loosen the upper hose. I used to do that but I have found a slow pour will work as well.
Awesome! Thank you so much. I will proceed accordingly, and post results tonight. You guys are more than awesome.
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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I am not sure which hose you are referring to, but will check.
It is pretty obvious by Johns description but here is a visual aid for the hose attaching to the water pump. The sensor is directly on the other side of the water pump so it is also the lowest point in the system. This is a better suggestion as that sensor as stated snaps off really easily and costs $56 to replace. You are less likely to damage the hose. I buggered an engine temp sensor once for a $120 mistake,,,Bummer! Take the hose off instead.
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post #21 of 92 Old Feb 15th, 2018, 6:25 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
Kirk and I don't exactly do things the same way. It is the hose on the right side of the bike that goes from the water pump to the thermostat junction at the base of the right radiator. There is nothing to "set" with the coolant. As long as you pour slowly, by the time yous 2.5 L are gone the level should be in the neck of the filler tube. You are DONE. Don't forget to hook back up the hose first.

OK I just watched his video. He does warn you about the torque setting for that sensor, 9 Nm is like run it by hand until it stops and then one half to one flat further with a wrench ONLY. Best to use a quality wrench. Or just pull the big hose as you will get all but 30 ml of coolant out that way.

He also has you loosen the upper hose. I used to do that but I have found a slow pour will work as well.
I will confuse you further with a third combination, which is pretty much to follow the BMW manual. I drain using the sensor and fill without removing or burping hoses.

I am not ignoring the cautions in regard to the sensor, but I have a different philosophy. I like to periodically remove threaded components and electrical connectors like this as it breaks the corrosion and makes it more likely I can successfully remove them when they fail and must be replaced. I also am one who removes the engine oil drain plug every oil change even though many folks remove only the filter cover.

I have found that with proper technique things won't break. I have removed my sensor twice now with zero issue. I find BMW torque values on the high side, so I generally reduce them by 10% and have never broken a threaded connection nor had one come loose. I don't reduce torque on lug bolts or critical engine, clutch or structural fasteners, only those on non-structural fasteners/components like this. I also add a little dielectric grease to each electrical connection during operations like this.

As John said, fill slowly and you will trap very little air. Fill the overflow tank and connect its hose. Run once to cooling fan activation and let cool completely. Remove the radiator cap and top off. Generally, only a small amount is needed. I have not had any issues with this technique.

I don't like removing the hoses as it is easy to damage them once they get bonded to the hose nipples with age and temperature. I tend to only remove them at replacement time assuming they may sustain damage during the twisting and prying required to get them loose.

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post #22 of 92 Old Feb 15th, 2018, 8:10 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
It is pretty obvious by Johns description but here is a visual aid for the hose attaching to the water pump. The sensor is directly on the other side of the water pump so it is also the lowest point in the system. This is a better suggestion as that sensor as stated snaps off really easily and costs $56 to replace. You are less likely to damage the hose. I buggered an engine temp sensor once for a $120 mistake,,,Bummer! Take the hose off instead.
Hello Gordon!

Thank you for the picture. Ok, I will remove the hose, it does sound more error free, and go from there. Half a gallon of distilled water, and two quarts of coolant.

On a separate note, I purchased the bleed valve through the BMW dealer, and they purchased the wrong one, so here I am having to wait a few more days to flush clutch and front brakes.

Regards,

Jerry
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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I will confuse you further with a third combination, which is pretty much to follow the BMW manual. I drain using the sensor and fill without removing or burping hoses.

I am not ignoring the cautions in regard to the sensor, but I have a different philosophy. I like to periodically remove threaded components and electrical connectors like this as it breaks the corrosion and makes it more likely I can successfully remove them when they fail and must be replaced. I also am one who removes the engine oil drain plug every oil change even though many folks remove only the filter cover.

I have found that with proper technique things won't break. I have removed my sensor twice now with zero issue. I find BMW torque values on the high side, so I generally reduce them by 10% and have never broken a threaded connection nor had one come loose. I don't reduce torque on lug bolts or critical engine, clutch or structural fasteners, only those on non-structural fasteners/components like this. I also add a little dielectric grease to each electrical connection during operations like this.

As John said, fill slowly and you will trap very little air. Fill the overflow tank and connect its hose. Run once to cooling fan activation and let cool completely. Remove the radiator cap and top off. Generally, only a small amount is needed. I have not had any issues with this technique.

I don't like removing the hoses as it is easy to damage them once they get bonded to the hose nipples with age and temperature. I tend to only remove them at replacement time assuming they may sustain damage during the twisting and prying required to get them loose.
Thank you for your feedback.

Yes, quite confused, but understand everyone's point of view. I will be cautious either way. I have been very cautious, and perhaps overly cautious. I was not planning to start the bike, for I was planning to remove the fuel tank first. I guess I should not remove the fuel tank now (and only pull back a bit to access the radiator cap), replace the coolant, and start the bike. Then let it cool off, and then remove the tank.

On a side note, I do not think I have removed anything that would prevent the bike from starting.

Regards, and thank you again.
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Hello Gordon!

Thank you for the picture. Ok, I will remove the hose, it does sound more error free, and go from there. Half a gallon of distilled water, and two quarts of coolant.

On a separate note, I purchased the bleed valve through the BMW dealer, and they purchased the wrong one, so here I am having to wait a few more days to flush clutch and front brakes.

Regards,

Jerry
Dang, that might have been me. I think I may have given you the I-ABS caliper vent screw P/N on you brake bleed thread. They are different now that I look at them closer. If you used that p/n and they just ordered the P/N and didn't look it up to confirm, I am sorry.

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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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I don't like removing the hoses as it is easy to damage them once they get bonded to the hose nipples with age and temperature. I tend to only remove them at replacement time assuming they may sustain damage during the twisting and prying required to get them loose.
I have to agree with you Matt as they can be hard to get off but I have seen at least 6 of these sensors sheared off on this forum as people wrongly assume they are pipe thread and try to snug them up. That is why I tended to go that way, but I'll have to admit I damn near tore up the last hose I removed. Caveat Emptor !

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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Dang, that might have been me. I think I may have given you the I-ABS caliper vent screw P/N on you brake bleed thread. They are different now that I look at them closer. If you used that p/n and they just ordered the P/N and didn't look it up to confirm, I am sorry.
Hi Gordon,

I specifically mentioned to them the part number, and they mentioned another one. That another one was incorrect. So you are good!

Jerry
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Ok, so I was able to drain the coolant. The amount drained was just over half a gallon. I removed the hose on the bottom, and not the sensor. I was drained the reservoir. Took me a while to remove the hose from the cap on the top. That thing appeared glued...

I filled up with new coolant all the way to the top (spilled...bummer). I turned the bike on, and let it run for 3 to 4 minutes idle. Then I turned off. I saw light smoke coming the cap, but am assuming it was because of the coolant spill. I hope this is normal.

I have attached some pictures, and have a few questions for the Gurus!

Picture 6013 I used 1.5 L of coolant mixed with half a gallon
Picture 6014 the cap appears wet. I can smell gasoline. Not sure if this is normal. Will disassemble tomorrow.
Picture 6015 appears all in order. No questions here unless you see something wrong.
Picture 6016 just how I drained the coolant.
Picture 6017 reservoir now nearly on MAX. I left just under on purpose.
Picture 6019 these fell off , and I have no idea where they go. Fuel tank?
Picture 6020 this is what was left from the entire gallon. Does this appear right?

I hope you are not bored, as I continue to post about this project with questions. I feel I am nearly there. Fuel filter and Air filter is next. Trying to determine when should I install the QD. Perhaps when I put the fuel tank back?

Thank you everyone for the great feedback.

Safe rides!
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Originally Posted by ALL4BMW View Post
Ok, so I was able to drain the coolant. The amount drained was just over half a gallon. I removed the hose on the bottom, and not the sensor. I was drained the reservoir. Took me a while to remove the hose from the cap on the top. That thing appeared glued...

I filled up with new coolant all the way to the top (spilled...bummer). I turned the bike on, and let it run for 3 to 4 minutes idle. Then I turned off. I saw light smoke coming the cap, but am assuming it was because of the coolant spill. I hope this is normal.

I have attached some pictures, and have a few questions for the Gurus!

Picture 6013 I used 1.5 L of coolant mixed with half a gallon
Picture 6014 the cap appears wet. I can smell gasoline. Not sure if this is normal. Will disassemble tomorrow.
Picture 6015 appears all in order. No questions here unless you see something wrong.
Picture 6016 just how I drained the coolant.
Picture 6017 reservoir now nearly on MAX. I left just under on purpose.
Picture 6019 these fell off , and I have no idea where they go. Fuel tank?
Picture 6020 this is what was left from the entire gallon. Does this appear right?

I hope you are not bored, as I continue to post about this project with questions. I feel I am nearly there. Fuel filter and Air filter is next. Trying to determine when should I install the QD. Perhaps when I put the fuel tank back?

Thank you everyone for the great feedback.

Safe rides!
6014 yes, looks like something is leaking. NO, that isn't normal. It may be a hose or the lock ring is lose but you will fix all that in doing the filter and QD's. There should be no smell of gas when the bike is running or even sitting. You may have to give the pex clamps at the fuel pump flange a little squeeze. Just asking, are you familiar with the pex clamps and how to clamp them?

6019 are the bushings that go into the two fuel tank holes on either side. Don't lose them. You took the bolts out to get the tank off or it will be off once you remove it
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Got it! I will fix all that. not aware of pex clamp and how to clamp them, but willing to learn.

I appreciate the assistance. Thank you!
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Got it! I will fix all that. not aware of pex clamp and how to clamp them, but willing to learn.

I appreciate the assistance. Thank you!
You got 4 of them with your new QD's They are more properly called Oetiker clamps but are commonly used with PEX plumbing lines and are also called and labeled PEX clamps.

There is a special frontways set of pliers for securing them but if you have a good set of diagonal cutters or lineman pliers, you can do them with those also, it just may take a little more effort. They can be difficult to get apart and are pretty much designed for a single use. See the attached pics for what they look like and the tools you can use to clamp them.
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1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Pick up a plastic measuring cup at Dollar General they are marked in liters/milliliters and cups. Make mixing exactly 2.5 liters easier. A half gallon of water is 1.9 liters so your mix was not exactly 50/50 but unless you are expecting temps down to -20 this should not be a problem. I don't see a leak on the hoses but it is probably a dirty tank seal. Or is could just be a new nut as it is pretty uniform color which would be odd for a slight leak. Those rubber bushes go into the tank mount holes from the side toward the frame. Put them back in with a little bit of silicone seal to hold them in place. They cushion the tank where it touches the frame at the M8 mount bolts.
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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You got 4 of them with your new QD's They are more properly called Oetiker clamps but are commonly used with PEX plumbing lines and are also called and labeled PEX clamps.

There is a special frontways set of pliers for securing them but if you have a good set of diagonal cutters or lineman pliers, you can do them with those also, it just may take a little more effort. They can be difficult to get apart and are pretty much designed for a single use. See the attached pics for what they look like and the tools you can use to clamp them.
Got it, thank you! I have the tool on the last and before last pictures. I guess I need to be careful not to damage. I saw the I can find these at Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, if I were to purchase one. I appreciate the pictures. Giving a visual helps a lot. About to start on removing the tank. Will watch Kirk's video one more time, to make sure I got it.

I ended up purchasing the Dash Cowling, for mine was cracked where the screws goes in. Found on e-Bay. I also purchased the under the seat piston. Mine did not hold the seat up. It is a nice feature to have.

My question is, I changed the engine oil and final drive oil two years ago, but only have put 2500 miles since then. Should I change these fluids again? I do not ride much, because I do not really know anyone in the area, and work 7 days a week. I am fixing the bike to ride it to work, so I can use it.

Thank you!
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Pick up a plastic measuring cup at Dollar General they are marked in liters/milliliters and cups. Make mixing exactly 2.5 liters easier. A half gallon of water is 1.9 liters so your mix was not exactly 50/50 but unless you are expecting temps down to -20 this should not be a problem. I don't see a leak on the hoses but it is probably a dirty tank seal. Or is could just be a new nut as it is pretty uniform color which would be odd for a slight leak. Those rubber bushes go into the tank mount holes from the side toward the frame. Put them back in with a little bit of silicone seal to hold them in place. They cushion the tank where it touches the frame at the M8 mount bolts.
Hello, John!

Thank you. The mix was nearly 50/50, that is correct. In Houston I should not get temperatures that low, but lately we are getting all sorts of weather here. I am about to start work on the fuel tank. I guess I will need to drain the minimum fuel that is still in the tank, when I disconnect those hoses. I will watch Kirk's video one last time.
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post #34 of 92 Old Feb 16th, 2018, 8:04 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Got it, thank you! I have the tool on the last and before last pictures. I guess I need to be careful not to damage. I saw the I can find these at Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, if I were to purchase one. I appreciate the pictures. Giving a visual helps a lot. About to start on removing the tank. Will watch Kirk's video one more time, to make sure I got it.

I ended up purchasing the Dash Cowling, for mine was cracked where the screws goes in. Found on e-Bay. I also purchased the under the seat piston. Mine did not hold the seat up. It is a nice feature to have.

My question is, I changed the engine oil and final drive oil two years ago, but only have put 2500 miles since then. Should I change these fluids again? I do not ride much, because I do not really know anyone in the area, and work 7 days a week. I am fixing the bike to ride it to work, so I can use it.

Thank you!
Since the engine has to deal with acid forming combustion byproducts, I would absolutely change two-year old oil. The final drive should be fine as it is not nearly as chemically harsh an environment as is the engine crankcase.

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post #35 of 92 Old Feb 16th, 2018, 9:11 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Got it, thank you! I have the tool on the last and before last pictures. I guess I need to be careful not to damage. I saw the I can find these at Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, if I were to purchase one. I appreciate the pictures. Giving a visual helps a lot. About to start on removing the tank. Will watch Kirk's video one more time, to make sure I got it.

I ended up purchasing the Dash Cowling, for mine was cracked where the screws goes in. Found on e-Bay. I also purchased the under the seat piston. Mine did not hold the seat up. It is a nice feature to have.

My question is, I changed the engine oil and final drive oil two years ago, but only have put 2500 miles since then. Should I change these fluids again? I do not ride much, because I do not really know anyone in the area, and work 7 days a week. I am fixing the bike to ride it to work, so I can use it.

Thank you!
I am with Voyager on changing the engine oil and 2500 miles might be enough to check the FD magnet for any debris buildup and deterioration of the crown bearing but the FD oil won't deteriorate like engine oil will from the combustion process deposits. If the rear wheel doesn't have any play, you could easily just leave the FD oil till a higher mileage check point.

Gordon
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2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #36 of 92 Old Feb 16th, 2018, 9:17 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

HELP!

Of course I clamped the wrong hose, and fuel spread everywhere. Now I have no fuel, but at least the tank was lighter...the challenge is that now I do not know which hose I plug the male or female Quick Disconnect. When looking to the hoses on the bottom of the tank, the one with the little tube sticking out was the one spreading fuel everywhere. Do I plug the male or female QD?

The new air filter is in. I am not sure how long has the old air filter been there. Have no idea what color is was, but it was rubber on all sides, and had written BW 1299.

Overall appearance looks okay under the tank, but again, you may see something different. I will work on the fuel filter now, and come back in hopes someone read this post.
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post #37 of 92 Old Feb 16th, 2018, 9:19 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Originally Posted by ALL4BMW View Post
HELP!

Of course I clamped the wrong hose, and fuel spread everywhere. Now I have no fuel, but at least the tank was lighter...the challenge is that now I do not know which hose I plug the male or female Quick Disconnect. When looking to the hoses on the bottom of the tank, the one with the little tube sticking out was the one spreading fuel everywhere. Do I plug the male or female QD?

The new air filter is in. I am not sure how long has the old air filter been there. Have no idea what color is was, but it was rubber on all sides, and had written BW 1299.

Overall appearance looks okay under the tank, but again, you may see something different. I will work on the fuel filter now, and come back in hopes someone read this post.
Here are some pictures...forgot to post them.
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post #38 of 92 Old Feb 16th, 2018, 10:04 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Here is picture I stole from John Zeiler showing the hoses and how to connect them.

The air filter is a K&N washable oiled reusable filter. They allow more air flow and also more particulate matter through. Most have abandoned them as the stock paper filter allow more than adequate air flow and is much better at filtering than the K&N so toss it, put it on ebay or whatever. I have 2 in boxes ready for any sucker who wants them and will pay shipping

Picture 6021 and 6022 shows some wires in desperate need of some clothe re-taping or they will eventually rub through and short out on something. Also the ones I mentioned on the other side as well.

Don't forget to flip one QD so they can only go together one way.

Actually, you do know how to put them back together. You managed to pull one barb out on each side and leave it so until you pull them out, you know where they go back.
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post #39 of 92 Old Feb 16th, 2018, 10:55 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
Here is picture I stole from John Zeiler showing the hoses and how to connect them.

The air filter is a K&N washable oiled reusable filter. They allow more air flow and also more particulate matter through. Most have abandoned them as the stock paper filter allow more than adequate air flow and is much better at filtering than the K&N so toss it, put it on ebay or whatever. I have 2 in boxes ready for any sucker who wants them and will pay shipping

Picture 6021 and 6022 shows some wires in desperate need of some clothe re-taping or they will eventually rub through and short out on something. Also the ones I mentioned on the other side as well.

Don't forget to flip one QD so they can only go together one way.

Actually, you do know how to put them back together. You managed to pull one barb out on each side and leave it so until you pull them out, you know where they go back.
Awesome, awesome! Thank you for the picture. This is exactly what I needed.

I managed to replace the fuel filter and the hoses. The inside of the tank appeared ok. The rubber gasket was fine, and a (kind of) green bag was okay as well. Please see attached pictures. How does the clamping look? I used as much pressure as I could. The fuel filter appears original, with a 1999 date, or am I mistaken?

Also, I did put the tank back, but will have to remove, now that I read about the exposed wires. I need to buy cloth tape, as per your recommendation at some point above.

Picture 6033 shows the 1999 date.
Picture 6036 shows the old hose with clamp, and the new one. Appears smaller, but I installed it anyway.
Picture 6037 is the new filter with new hoses
Pictures 6038 and 6039 shows the clamping. Hopefully it is secure.

I will try to go back to the bike now, and get those QD installed.

Thank you for your time.
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post #40 of 92 Old Feb 16th, 2018, 11:27 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALL4BMW View Post
Awesome, awesome! Thank you for the picture. This is exactly what I needed.

I managed to replace the fuel filter and the hoses. The inside of the tank appeared ok. The rubber gasket was fine, and a (kind of) green bag was okay as well. Please see attached pictures. How does the clamping look? I used as much pressure as I could. The fuel filter appears original, with a 1999 date, or am I mistaken?

Also, I did put the tank back, but will have to remove, now that I read about the exposed wires. I need to buy cloth tape, as per your recommendation at some point above.

Picture 6033 shows the 1999 date.
Picture 6036 shows the old hose with clamp, and the new one. Appears smaller, but I installed it anyway.
Picture 6037 is the new filter with new hoses
Pictures 6038 and 6039 shows the clamping. Hopefully it is secure.

I will try to go back to the bike now, and get those QD installed.

Thank you for your time.
I would try and get a little more out of those crimps if you can. They should be compressing the hose under them a little and I don't really see that. See if they twist on the tubes easily. You don't want to have to pull it off again if it pops off the tube under pressure. Get the diagonal cutters as far on as possible to where they pivot. That is where you have the most leverage. The clamps are stainless so it is unlikely you will cut through them easily.

I see you have the flow arrow correct. Good job on that. Yes, that looks like a 99 filter date stamp so either it was old stock somewhere or has not been changed in a long time.

Looks good so far.

Gordon
Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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post #41 of 92 Old Feb 17th, 2018, 12:24 am Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Hi Gordon,

Ok, thank you. I will remove the entire thing and tighten up the clamps a bit more. I was afraid I was doing it too hard.

The wrench that I purchased at Autozone to remove and tighten the pump assembly inside the tank was too big. I was able to remove it by hand, and hand tightened as much as I could. Is this safe? Or should I look for the wrench to tighten that black lid/cover?

With the QDs installed, can we disconnect without having to clamp the hoses? In other words, if we disconnect, will fuel not spill? Sorry for the question.

I have also attached a couple of pictures. One the QD is already in. It took me nearly one hour to remove the plastic connector from inside the hose. Onse side came out just fine, the other one was fighting me big time. I either do not have the proper tool or this thing was stuck there since 1999. I almost cut the hose to make the job easier. I hope I did not damage anything trying to pull that thing out. I did use a lot of force. Holding the hose with one hand, and pulling that plastic stupid thing with the other. Is there an easier way to remove that plastic connector? I still have one to go.


As always, I appreciate the feedback and guidance.

Thank you, and regards.
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post #42 of 92 Old Feb 17th, 2018, 1:02 am
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Originally Posted by ALL4BMW View Post
Hi Gordon,

Ok, thank you. I will remove the entire thing and tighten up the clamps a bit more. I was afraid I was doing it too hard.

The wrench that I purchased at Autozone to remove and tighten the pump assembly inside the tank was too big. I was able to remove it by hand, and hand tightened as much as I could. Is this safe? Or should I look for the wrench to tighten that black lid/cover?

With the QDs installed, can we disconnect without having to clamp the hoses? In other words, if we disconnect, will fuel not spill? Sorry for the question.

I have also attached a couple of pictures. One the QD is already in. It took me nearly one hour to remove the plastic connector from inside the hose. Onse side came out just fine, the other one was fighting me big time. I either do not have the proper tool or this thing was stuck there since 1999. I almost cut the hose to make the job easier. I hope I did not damage anything trying to pull that thing out. I did use a lot of force. Holding the hose with one hand, and pulling that plastic stupid thing with the other. Is there an easier way to remove that plastic connector? I still have one to go.


As always, I appreciate the feedback and guidance.

Thank you, and regards.
The one QD looks good and no, it will not leak when you take them apart. There should be a valve on each piece that closes when separated. Try blowing through the separated pieces of the one you haven't installed yet if it isn't already done. You are just going to have to muscle out the plastic piece.

Tightening by hand won't cut it and if you got it off by hand, that may have been the source of your fuel smell. In the PM, I measured mine which I can no longer find while open and it was just over 4 1/2 inches. Either go find one that is the proper side, take the ring with you to be sure or get a strap wrench like John mentioned. Infinitely adjustable and I don't have one yet. It needs to fit in the space around the ring so if it is very thick, it won't fit in and around.
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Sugar Hill, GA
2001 K1200LTI Champagne (current ride) Lazy Susan
1998 R1100RT Never should have sold it
1974 Yamaha TX 750 Twin. Omni Phase Balanced


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Last edited by bmwcoolk1200; Feb 17th, 2018 at 1:21 am.
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post #43 of 92 Old Feb 17th, 2018, 9:13 am
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Originally Posted by ALL4BMW View Post
Hi Gordon,

Ok, thank you. I will remove the entire thing and tighten up the clamps a bit more. I was afraid I was doing it too hard.

The wrench that I purchased at Autozone to remove and tighten the pump assembly inside the tank was too big. I was able to remove it by hand, and hand tightened as much as I could. Is this safe? Or should I look for the wrench to tighten that black lid/cover?

With the QDs installed, can we disconnect without having to clamp the hoses? In other words, if we disconnect, will fuel not spill? Sorry for the question.

I have also attached a couple of pictures. One the QD is already in. It took me nearly one hour to remove the plastic connector from inside the hose. Onse side came out just fine, the other one was fighting me big time. I either do not have the proper tool or this thing was stuck there since 1999. I almost cut the hose to make the job easier. I hope I did not damage anything trying to pull that thing out. I did use a lot of force. Holding the hose with one hand, and pulling that plastic stupid thing with the other. Is there an easier way to remove that plastic connector? I still have one to go.


As always, I appreciate the feedback and guidance.

Thank you, and regards.
Yes, the fittings are a pain to get out of the fuel hose. Much patience required.

You want the pump assembly "nut" a little more than hand tight as it is hard to get a good grip on it. I bought a set of rubber strap wrenches at Autozone and they worked great. You don't need this ring "farmer tight" but definitely more than "bare finger" tight.
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post #44 of 92 Old Feb 17th, 2018, 4:35 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

The nut should be as snug as you can get it with a rubber strap wrench. If no strap wrench then once it has snugged up by hand gently hammer with a drift on the flats to get it to move as least two places. Then dump a gallon in and check for leaks BEFORE you mount it back on the bike. Much easier to fix that way.
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
Yes, the fittings are a pain to get out of the fuel hose. Much patience required.

You want the pump assembly "nut" a little more than hand tight as it is hard to get a good grip on it. I bought a set of rubber strap wrenches at Autozone and they worked great. You don't need this ring "farmer tight" but definitely more than "bare finger" tight.
I got the rubber strap! Thank you.
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
The nut should be as snug as you can get it with a rubber strap wrench. If no strap wrench then once it has snugged up by hand gently hammer with a drift on the flats to get it to move as least two places. Then dump a gallon in and check for leaks BEFORE you mount it back on the bike. Much easier to fix that way.
Thank you, John! I will do just that. I got the rubber strap, and will work on it tonight. I guess after I complete the steps with fuel filter and QD, it is time to start putting everything back together. Still need to flush the clutch, but I noticed I can have the tank back. Still waiting for the bleed valve to arrive at the dealer.

Much appreciated!
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post #47 of 92 Old Feb 17th, 2018, 6:50 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

Thank you, Gordon!

They did not have this size, but it is the same brand. Thank you for the picture. Regretfully mine is too big. I got a rubber strap, and hopefully that will do the trick. The other QD I will do while the pump assembly is off the tank. I will have a better position, since it is the side with the plastic thing in it. The other half is a screw clamp.

More to come!
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post #48 of 92 Old Feb 17th, 2018, 7:01 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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Thank you, Gordon!

They did not have this size, but it is the same brand. Thank you for the picture. Regretfully mine is too big. I got a rubber strap, and hopefully that will do the trick. The other QD I will do while the pump assembly is off the tank. I will have a better position, since it is the side with the plastic thing in it. The other half is a screw clamp.

More to come!
The rubber strap wrenches are nice as they have a wide adjustment range.

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4th largest city in America, and I cannot find cloth tape or friction tape. I will continue the search, for I do not believe regular electric tape will do the job to cover exposed wires!

The search continues!
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post #50 of 92 Old Feb 17th, 2018, 8:03 pm
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Re: Newbie on a DIY Journey

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4th largest city in America, and I cannot find cloth tape or friction tape. I will continue the search, for I do not believe regular electric tape will do the job to cover exposed wires!

The search continues!
I think I got mine at Home Depot but each store seems to be different in what they stock. It is far better at staying in place then the vinyl electric tape so I hope you can find it.
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